Do-it-yourself stand for a gaming steering wheel, drawings with dimensions

Drawings of a stand for an angle grinder

There are not many drawings of such racks on the Internet. Basically, these are primitive sketches that illustrate the principle of operation of the device rather than the exact dimensions and order of its assembly. And even those that exist do not have all the necessary information.

And the very design of such devices quite often raises doubts about the use of such a drawing without some correction.

Therefore, we advise you not to waste time searching for them, but to carefully consider the options for implemented projects to create homemade stands for angle grinders and choose the one that suits you. Or, taking into account their shortcomings, implement your own.

Preparing for work and reviewing elements

The adapter is, without a doubt, a very important component of the walk-behind tractor, so it must be reliable and convenient. There are several points to pay attention to:

Material for production. Based on operating experience, it is clear that adapters made from sheet steel are the most reliable. They are assembled using a welding machine. At the same time, the quality of the welds must be ideal. Otherwise, during operation it will be because of them that a breakdown will occur.
Driver's seat. The seat is made to be comfortable and adjustable in height, because you will have to spend several hours in a row in it while working.

If these conditions are met, production begins. First, make your own drawings of the hitch for the walk-behind tractor or choose suitable ones on the Internet. After all, the more diagrams and drawings you study, the better the result.

alexmak.net

I periodically try to go to the track by car. It's not really "racing", what I do is called HPDE - High Performance Driving Education. I talked a little about this here (be careful, the emo author shares his emotions very emotionally there), but in general these are races on a track where they teach you how to drive on a track and quickly, but there is no actual competition with other participants. Unfortunately, this year, due to work commitments and preparing my son for college (which included several trips around the country), I had to miss most of these track days. In addition, in our region, unlike Texas or California, the track season is limited by weather conditions and there is not much riding between November and April. And in general, racing on the track is not a cheap pleasure: a track day itself costs about $300 (this includes an instructor in the salon), a lot of gasoline is spent, a set of tires costs about $1,000 (enough for about a season), brakes - Either the pads or the discs have to be changed. In general, at least for the off-season lull, I began to think about alternatives, and the alternative in the form of a car simulator on PlayStation seemed very interesting - it now has Project Cars, Drive Club, and Assetto Corsa.

But driving in such simulators with a joystick... and for some reason only indecent analogies come to my mind... in general, it’s very inconvenient, so the next logical step is buying a steering wheel. It was the Logitech G29 with a separate pedal unit (in addition, I also plan to purchase a gear switch in the future). Well, the final stage was the question of where to attach this steering wheel.

The box with the steering wheel thoughtfully included a booklet from the Playseat company, which offers special sets of seats and steering wheel mounts. For the US, the cheapest option there starts at $369 (the most expensive is about 1,500). In short, even $369 is enough reason to think about possible alternatives, and I discovered such an alternative in the form of a project to build a similar chair online. Therefore, based on the found design, I built a frame on which the steering wheel, pedals and car seat are installed. Below is a story about the project itself and the construction process within the framework of the “crazy hands” section that is so rarely seen on the blog, especially since the handles are quite crooked.

It all started with a homemade project. I googled around the internet a little and found several projects, most of which were built using PVC pipes. After considering various options, I chose this project, which I liked the most: it was a full-fledged frame with a seat mount (unlike some projects, which were simply a stand for the steering wheel and pedals), the project was built from pipes with a diameter of 2″, which promised sufficient stability of the assembled project, and in general the author approached the issue seriously, designing the project initially in some kind of 3D application. The project also included fairly detailed diagrams of the component elements, so it looked like even I could complete it.

The next important step was a trip to a car dump. This is interesting in itself, but the project also required a good chair, and a car dump (also a dismantling site) seemed like a good place to find a chair. In America, “choose a spare part” showdowns are very popular, where you can unscrew some part from any car, and they will sell it to you at a certain price list. You can’t come there with power tools, but otherwise, whatever you unscrew with keys and screwdrivers is yours.

After scanning several hundred cars in this junkyard, we settled on the passenger seat from a third-generation Mitsubishi Eclipse. The leather seat was obviously easier to clean than the cloth seat, and the passenger seat was obviously less worn than the driver's, plus, importantly, it had mechanical adjustments. We found pretty good seat options, even newer ones, but they all turned out to be electrically adjustable, and this significantly complicated the settings of the future design. So “mechanics” rules here too. For this sit in the landfill they charged me 26 dollars.

The project itself consists not only of PVC pipes, but also a large number of connections. Buying them at retail was a bit expensive (3.95 per T-connector), so I turned to the Internet. For $55 on some website I ordered the necessary project (with a small margin) 30 T-shaped adapters, 4 “elbows” at 45 degrees, 12 “elbows” at 90 degrees, and 4 plugs. (delivery cost another $16). All this is 2 inches in diameter for the corresponding pipes.

At the construction supply store we also bought 3 10-foot pipes with a diameter (just over 9 meters), each, EMNIP, for 6.95, and the work began to boil. The pipes had to be cut into the required segments; fortunately, all dimensions were indicated on the project diagrams:

In the photo you can see a saw for PVC pipes (on the left), a pipe clamp (on the right, an irreplaceable thing in general!), cut pipe segments (above right) and for some reason T-shaped connectors laid out. And now the front part is assembled!

I cut a little more, and here is the first estimate of how it all might look with the seat:

Do I look like Clarkson here?

The next stage is gluing. In principle, if these pipes are properly hammered into each other, then they stick quite well even without glue, but I decided that with glue it would be better and more reliable. In the same building materials store, “cement” for PVC pipes was purchased, and for some reason it was orange. In the next photo, the project has already been glued together, as indicated by orange streaks in places:

The pipes on the right are a reserve for the future, under the gear selector. It will be possible to insert another pipe segment there, and attach the gear shift lever to it, but for now I’m without it.

During the gluing process, I realized a couple of important things: 1. This orange cement hardens incredibly quickly, and if you click the beak somewhere, it can be fraught. As a result (and this is noticeable in the previous photo), the place for installing the steering wheel turned out to be a little crooked, although not critical. 2. Assembling a certain solid object from pipes is quite a puzzle, because you need to have a good idea of what goes where, and, most importantly, in what order it will be inserted, otherwise something may not be inserted. In any case, the structure after gluing was very stable and strong, even though I decided not to glue the front and back together. The next step is to try on platforms for attaching the steering wheel, seat and pedals. For this I used plywood strips that were about 1 inch thick. The store cut me 4 squares with a side of 23 inches, but in reality two would have been enough. One slab, from which two squares are cut, cost $19. A little work with a saw to prepare the elements of the required size, and here is the result in fitting:

Then the question arose of how to attach these platforms to the pipes, and here I was stuck the most. The instructions on the Internet were different, but I didn’t want to drill holes in the pipes and secure everything with large bolts. It took me a few trips to the store, meditating on the aisles of bolts and nuts, to decide that I needed U-bolts, or U-shaped bolts that would fit 2-inch pipes (a couple of dollars each - A total of 8 of these bolts were needed).

The main problem at this stage arose in this place:

Well, U-bolts are designed for 2-inch diameter pipe, but due to the thickness of the platform and the fact that the platform rests on the connector, not the pipe, the bolt was barely long enough to fit the nut. Therefore, I had to sweat in order to tighten these nuts. In principle, they could have used a little more U-bolts, but the holes were already drilled!

The seating platform is also secured with 4 U-bolts in these places:

By the way, about the pipe plugs that appeared on the list of previously purchased parts. You can see them here; they are used to rest on the floor on the pipes where the platform for the chair is located.

There was the same problem with the fact that the bolt was not long enough, but it was not possible to use larger bolts, since in this case they could begin to cling to the bottom of the chair. We also had to work a little hard with the chair itself, because it was necessary to saw off two metal brackets from the bottom of the chair slide, which were apparently needed in the car, but not in this project: the brackets caught on the protruding nuts and, accordingly, there were difficulties with so that the chair moves back and forth as it should. The chair itself is bolted to the platform with two-inch bolts and washers:

In addition, the pedals are screwed to the platform with two M6 screws.

During the final “trying on”, it turned out that this place, marked with an arrow in the picture above, is a little in the way of my legs. In a good way, it should have been turned higher during the “gluing” process, but after the cement set, it was too late to drink Borjomi, so I had to cut the pipe.

Then came the exciting process of disassembling the project and subsequent painting. In general, in the original project the author covered the pipes with 3M film, and now, after painting, I even understand why he did that. I wanted to avoid the hassle of film, so I decided to focus on paint, and even bought paint that seemed to stick to plastic. I’ll say right away that it holds up, but it also turned out to be quite easy to scratch the paint, so now I would probably also choose film (and maybe in the future I’ll bother with this). In total, I needed 3 cans of red spray paint for the pipes and 1 can of black spray paint for the platforms (about $10 total). While painting, I discovered that paint dust can also be used to paint sneakers, socks, garage floors, and even the asphalt of your garage driveway. The color scheme, I think, is clear where it came from:

The painting and drying process (here I also appreciated the opportunity to separate the front and back parts of the structure):

Well, after several days of airing the painted object in the garage, I finally assembled it (less than a month and a half had passed since the first visit to the landfill):

Please note that I filed the corners of the front seating platform to reduce the risk of hitting sharp corners when “entering and exiting”

Ready to use!

And I tried to use it as intended:

I think it turned out well. In the end, according to my estimates, the cost of this project cost about $160-170 (excluding the cost of the steering wheel, of course), which is a) much cheaper than buying a ready-made chair from Playseat, and b) brought an untold amount of pleasure from the result, and that , probably even more important - from the process. In the future, this entire structure can move to the basement and become friends with the projector, and also, possibly, with PSVR (although it seems that only DriveClub is friends with PSVR for now).

If you suddenly decide to make a similar project, please contact me with questions, I will try to help.

APD I realized that I had screwed the pedal assembly on incorrectly - when “driving” one of the legs was very tired from tension. The platform with pedals had to be mounted not on top of the pipe, but from below, it immediately became better

Device for grinder

But such equipment also has some disadvantages that can lead one to believe that it is easiest to create a cutting machine using a frame and just a grinder. Factory-produced models of such machines are limited in use. For example, the model discussed above can only cut 100 mm pipes. In everyday conditions, very often you have to work together with samples of a higher quality cross-section. In addition, everyone has their own needs, so a certain model simply cannot fully satisfy them.

Factory appliances can be significantly modified, but most often this occurs in conjunction with financial investments. In some cases, it is generally irrational and incorrect to change the device. This will apply to equipment that is created from alloys that are difficult to process. Nowadays, home craftsmen very often try to create a machine made from a grinder on their own. To accomplish this task, you can use several methods at once. If you look at them in detail, you can come up with your own design.

Why doesn't the game wheel work?

It is extremely disappointing when, when you turn on the device and connect all the necessary wires, the device does not respond to pressing or rotation. There are a number of reasons why a gaming steering wheel refuses to work:

The USB cable is broken.
Damage to USB connectors.
Broken power cord.
Power supply failure.
Failure of the mechanical part (transmission mechanism, bearings).
Sensor failure.
The gaming wheel model does not match the software installed on the PC, or the latest OS version no longer supports the old device.
Calibration failed.

How to test a homemade product

Stay off the road.
Wear personal protective equipment for karting drivers: helmet, knee pads, elbow pads, etc.
The first couple of kilometers are for testing, running-in, checking the brakes, feeling the dynamics and controllability. You shouldn’t go to competitions right away.
Do not accelerate your homemade go-kart to full speed. You can gradually increase the speed, feeling how the vehicle behaves when cornering. If you feel that, for example, at a speed of 40 km/h the car has a “crazy” vibration, then you will either have to drive up to that speed, or check the structure, perhaps something is bent.

Attention! The most important rule for any karting driver is to stay off the road. You can only ride on special sites and training grounds.

Computer based simulator

But if you are ready to spend more (50-80, 100 thousand rubles) for a set of steering wheel-pedals-gearbox, here you still have to go to a higher level - PC.

If you want the most accurate and realistic results and the best experience with tons of settings, you will have to buy a powerful computer.

Step one: a powerful PC with a powerful graphics card and a powerful processor. A video card (GPU) in a computer assembly for car simulators is especially important. There are not only hundreds – thousands of options for assembling components! Therefore, we will not delve into the topic, we will only say that the price range from 80 thousand rubles per block to 120-140 thousand rubles is today’s reality. If you want to play efficiently, without friezes and stupidities, you will have to invest in a block.

Step two: as for the monitor... you can include it in the maximum purchase price or purchase a separate assembly of several pieces:

Step Three: No matter what peripherals you use, a PC will offer more flexibility, realism, and customization than a console. You can use the aforementioned Logitech or Fanatec wheels, but there's no limit to the possibilities for buying super-expensive, enthusiast-oriented peripherals. If you do go this route, it is recommended that you purchase a steering wheel with a Direct Drive base.

TungusMario › Blog › DIY steering wheel table

Guys, hello everyone! I was surfing here recently on AliExpress and saw an interesting table for a car that is attached to the steering wheel. It can be used for a snack on the road or for installing a laptop on it (the table is double-sided), it can also be used for writing (signing) documents.

I often snack in the car, so I thought: “Why not make such a table yourself?” I found a table template on the Internet. I printed it on photo paper.

Then I transferred it to cardboard.

I took the cardboard template into the car for fitting. Since I have braided steering wheel installed and the steering wheel is thicker, naturally the template did not fit. I had to slightly widen the mounting points on the steering wheel. I decided to make the table from 9 mm plywood. Found some scraps in the garage. To make a table you need 2 pieces of plywood.

To make the blanks as identical as possible, I twisted them with self-tapping screws, and then marked them.

A little work with a jigsaw and 2 blanks of the future table are ready!

After that, I made markings on one of the blanks and cut out the “For a snack” part.

I figured out how it would look.

Next, I sanded the “Snack” half and glued it with the other half. After a day of being under pressure, the most grueling stage came - grinding!