How to make a vibrating sieve (vibrating screen) with your own hands?

In order to mechanize this process and make the work easier, a mechanical device with an electric drive can be made. Such a mechanism will be especially relevant if it is necessary to prepare large quantities of building mixtures from bulk materials.


Such a device is called a vibrating sieve or vibrating screen. It has a fairly simple design, and therefore it is not difficult to make a vibrating sieve with your own hands.

General design

Making a vibrating screen for sand or crushed stone does not require a lot of time. The design description of the vibrating sieve includes the following elements:

  • supporting frame on which all other parts and assemblies are located and secured;
  • electric drive, which can be used as a power saw, jigsaw or drill;
  • an external box (frame) without a bottom, mounted on fixed furniture casters;
  • guide rails made of metal corners for moving rollers along them;
  • nestable box with a metal mesh bottom;
  • a chute for transporting sifted material to a collection bin;
  • a device for adjusting the rotation speed of an electric motor.

The transport chute is easiest to make from plywood, but a metal structure will be much more reliable, especially when sifting gravel or other coarse materials.

A device for adjusting the rotation speed may already be provided in the design of an electric drill or jigsaw. In this case, a separate external regulator will not be needed.

The principle of operation of a vibrating sieve for bulk materials is to transmit translational movements from a power tool to a frame with a fixed sieve. After sifting the materials, the internal wooden frame with the sieve is raised and unnecessary screenings are dumped.

Drying

Drying sand is necessary, for example, when making dry mixtures. The drying method depends on the moisture content of the original material, its volume, required productivity and available means. For example, when the volume of wet sand is small and the day is hot, it is dried by spreading it in a thin layer on a flat base. A good option is sheet iron or corrugated board. Thus, drying methods can be divided into categories:

  1. Household - on a baking sheet in the oven or in the sun.
  2. Construction - on a sheet of iron under the sun or over a stove (fire) or in a special pipe (“vibro-fluidized bed”).
  3. Industrial - as a rule, in a “vibro-fluidized” or “fluidized” bed, as well as with the use of lime.


While the drum rotates, moving the mass towards the end, gas combustion products dry the sand.

A popular method of preparing material for mortars (especially in dry mortar factories) is the use of a “vibrating fluidized bed drum screen”. This is a modification of the drum seeder in which the mesh is located only at the end of the pipe. At the beginning of it, a gas “gun” with a powerful fan is installed. This article will tell you about the sand fraction coefficient according to GOST 25584-2016.

An electric dryer differs in that heating is produced not by burning gas, but by electric heating elements.

Necessary materials

To make a frame, two drawers and other elements of the mechanism, you will need:

  • wooden blocks 60x70 mm;
  • plywood 20 mm thick;
  • 6 rubber or spring shock absorbers;
  • 4 or 6 furniture casters with mounting frame;
  • piano loop with a length of at least 500 mm;
  • metal corners for guide rails;
  • metal plates or strips to strengthen wooden structural parts;
  • screws, bolts and nuts.

Homemade screen

Authorization on the site

My first electric screen was not entirely successful. However, the second, modified, began to meet all the planned requirements. Manufacturing required neither scarce materials nor highly qualified performers.

The structure consists of a base, racks, a frame with an electric motor, supports and ties. The dimensions shown in the drawings are indicative and may vary according to local needs and capabilities.

The base consists of two hollow bars, each of them is made of two boards connected through spacers. Holes with a diameter of 14 mm are drilled in the base bars.

To give the design oscillatory movements, I abandoned the gearbox with a ratchet due to the complexity of manufacturing and the strong noise it produces. Vibration is created by unbalancing the motor shaft. The eccentric is made from an ordinary wooden block. By selecting its shape and weight, the required frequency and amplitude of vibrations are achieved.

Pursuing further upgrades, I installed a device on the screen that automatically turns the engine on or off depending on the load on the frame. This allows you to eliminate idle operation, save energy and increase the service life of the structure as a whole.

Fig.3. Electrical circuit of the screen.

The automation works as follows. When loading, the frame lowers down and presses the S1 button. Its contacts close the electric motor circuit. It begins to rotate and shake the frame. At the first “failure” of the frame from vibration, she presses the S2 button. That, in turn, closes the power circuit of the electromagnetic relay, which is self-blocking with contacts K1, and with contacts K2 turns off the excitation (starting) winding of the engine. Thanks to the self-locking relay, the starting winding remains disconnected for the entire operating time. After sifting the material, the load is removed from the frame. It is pulled up by springs and opens button S1. The circuit returns to its original state.

The screen is stored disassembled in a room protected from moisture and snow.

Based on the experience of using my screen for two years, I would like to give some recommendations to those who want to make such a device. Firstly, it is advisable to pass the power wires from the circuit breaker mounted on the rack to the electric motor and mounted on the frame through the lower edge of the frame. Secondly, you should not make the frame too short. It is advisable to choose the spring attachment point as far as possible from the engine, which allows you to increase the amplitude of oscillations. And the last piece of advice: to avoid electric shock during operation, you must ground the motor frame or use an isolation transformer.

MK 07 1992 P. Sherstobitov, Perm

Source

Dimensions of main structural elements

Before starting to assemble a sand vibrating screen, it is recommended to draw an assembly diagram or a simple assembly drawing. This will simplify the assembly work and help determine the order in which they should be performed.

Recommended dimensions of the supporting frame (base):

  • length 1400 mm;
  • width 600 mm;
  • height 850 mm.

The length of the outer box without a bottom should be equal to half the length of the supporting frame. The width is 100 mm less than the width of the base, the depth is at least 120 mm.

The dimensions of the inner box with a mesh bottom should ensure its easy removal from the inner frame for free overturning and release of accumulated waste. The outer and inner boxes are connected along the short side with a piano hinge, as a result of which there is the possibility of lifting and tilting the inner structure.

How to prepare and sift sand for plaster

Types of plaster as a finishing method differ, first of all, in the quality of the mixture used. It depends on the ratio of the constituent parts, the size and uniformity of the fractions, and the presence of clay impurities. Accordingly, different preparations are required:

  1. To apply a rough layer or create reinforced concrete products, it will be enough to remove leaves, pieces of wood, and grass. Such “cleanliness” can be achieved by simply throwing sand from place to place. Branches, sticks, stones, rags and other debris will be separated from the main mass “automatically”.
  2. Creating a durable, even plaster coating requires a cleaner mixture. However, the calibration of the grain does not matter, as long as it is no larger than 2 - 3 mm.
  3. To create decorations and fill paths, you need clean, coarse, calibrated (separated) sand. Its fractions should be “one to one”, differing by no more than 0.5 mm.
  4. Sandblasting work, although not related to plaster, requires similar preparation of the material. Only the fraction needed here is small, 1 – 1.5 mm.


At home, improvised means are used. For example, a colander, a sieve, tulle, gauze, a mosquito net, etc. You just need to tighten and secure them tightly.

Almost all sifting methods are based on a mesh or its equivalent. This can be woven wire, welded reinforcing bars, fiberglass plaster canvas. Find out about masonry reinforcing mesh GOST 2379-2012 here.

If you dry the “dirty” sand on a baking sheet in the oven, “homemade” sifting will become faster and easier.

Assembly order

The production of a vibrating sieve begins with the assembly of a supporting frame from wooden blocks in accordance with the drawing.
To increase the strength of the structure, it is recommended to make connections of wooden parts with reinforcement with metal corners and plates. After this, guide rails must be secured to the inside of the base frame as a support for the movement of furniture rollers. The guide angles are fastened together into a single structure using transversely installed wooden blocks. To reduce vibration levels during operation, 6 or 8 rubber shock absorbers must be installed between the corners and guides.

To secure the drive for a vibrating sieve made from an electric drill, jigsaw or saw, on one side of the upper part of the support frame it is necessary to provide a platform corresponding to the size of the power tool.

After the support frame is assembled, a plywood gutter is made and installed. The processed material will flow through it into the collection container. A metal gutter is more difficult to make, but it will provide a longer service life.

How to make a vibrating sieve (vibrating screen) with your own hands?

One of the ways to pre-prepare cement, sand and other bulk components used to prepare mortars is to sift them through a sieve with different mesh sizes.
In order to mechanize this process and make the work easier, a mechanical device with an electric drive can be made. Such a mechanism will be especially relevant if it is necessary to prepare large quantities of building mixtures from bulk materials.

Such a device is called a vibrating sieve or vibrating screen. It has a fairly simple design, and therefore it is not difficult to make a vibrating sieve with your own hands.

Oscillation speed control unit

Manufacturers of power tools produce models with or without the ability to adjust the motor speed. In the second case, the oscillations of the electric saw may be too frequent, and an additional external device for adjustment will be required.

A rheostat-type regulator can be purchased at electrical supply stores. At the same time, it is recommended to buy a circuit breaker, which will provide additional protection for the tool and its long-term operation.

As a result, you will be able to provide any required vibration frequency of the working boxes of the vibrating screen, depending on their load and the weight of the material being processed, without overloading the electric drive.

Where can I buy?

LOBAS products have been on the sales market since 2005, and during this time it has secured a worthy reputation among the products and services offered. We manufacture drum separators both for our own needs and for selling equipment in Russia and abroad. Our sifters are designed to clean bulk raw materials - sand, peat, wood shavings, worms, stone, earth - from various debris.

The company's website presents options for drum separators designed for operating voltages of 380 V and 220 V. We also manufacture sifters of non-standard dimensions with meshes of different cell sizes for individual purposes.

To ask all your questions regarding drum sifters, call the toll-free multi-line number 8. Our employees will help you decide on the choice of separator that is suitable specifically for your case.

Drum separators for sifting help separate small fractions of any bulk material from large ones. Thanks to the separation process, the mixture becomes more homogeneous, which allows it to be used for production purposes both in its pure form and as an additive component to create high-quality products.

Making a sieve for sifting glass chips and more

When working with decorative glass, it is unwise to ignore glass chips, in the sense of using them for decoration. For example, it is extremely common to work with such crumbs when sintering glass blanks in a special suitcase oven (fusing). There, interesting effects are achieved with different-sized crumbs. At the same time, they are sprinkled on the workpiece - all or the desired place, sometimes through a stencil. The use of small crumbs and glass dust in the artistic version of glassblowing also allows you to enrich the master’s arsenal; there, heated glass is dipped in them.

Stop! Look and listen, baby!

Consumers, greedy for sophisticated names, stimulate this widespread transcriptional word formation - but there is nothing to be done; most often, glass chips are presented as “frits”.

Frit is crushed or crushed glass used to decorate the surface of glass products in the fusing process, and also as a base material in furnace and glass casting processes.

Screen - one or more vibrating sieves (sieves) for separating bulk materials according to the size of pieces or particles (fractions). When mechanizing a process, it is a machine or apparatus. It got its name for the characteristic noise during operation.

It is clear that “for-the-home-for-the-family” use much more modest versions of sieves, calling which screens, we greatly flatter their pride. Often, household sieves are used - from a hardware store, and there is a reason for this - as it is much more common and as practice shows, household analogues, even if they are three times the same, cost much less than “special” ones. Another thing is that it is not always possible to select the cell size for several dispersion stages.

Faced with this problem, I solved it simply and, to my taste, quite elegantly - I made the missing sieve myself. I managed to find two factory sieves in my trash - one of them with a mesh size of about 1 mm, the other (more like a colander) - about three. At the same time, even with such a modest composition, it was possible to obtain a practically usable fraction - dumping the crushed glass from a mortar into a colander, we sift out the poorly crushed, large pieces - back into the mortar. Everything that falls into a 1mm sieve is sifted out of coarse grains such as “sand” or even “dust”. The rest looks good and can be used. However, crumbs that are more uniform in size look much prettier. The use of just one additional sieve with a mesh size of 2mm will allow you to add two more fractions to your arsenal - 1-2mm, 2-3mm. Practice has shown that they can be easily and easily distinguished and look better than the more heterogeneous 1-3mm.

It was decided to make the design of a homemade sieve similar to a colander - a thin metal sheet with drilled holes was used as a mesh. The obvious lack of manufacturability does not play a role in a single production, but the advantages are obvious - holes can be drilled of any diameter, even the most exotic, while a mesh with the required cell is sometimes difficult to find. The design turns out to be very reliable, almost eternal, while sieves based on woven wire mesh spread quickly, most often at the embedment site.

What was used in the work

Tools, equipment.

To make a strainer, you needed an ordinary metalworking tool, definitely metal scissors. A marking tool, whatever for convenient drilling - a drilling machine was used, but you can get by with a screwdriver. The anvil, of course, is a file. For soldering, an electric soldering iron with a power of 65 W was used, with accessories.

Materials.

Sheet steel of a suitable diameter - galvanized “roofing” steel, 0.5 (0.45) mm thick, is good. Medium-sized sandpaper.

Let's get started.

In the house on Smolny Street there was a roar and ringing all night until the morning...

Crematorium. “In a house on Smolnaya Street.”

A suitable piece of sheet steel for the bottom is selected, its center is found - by crossing the diagonals or, if the piece is irregular in shape - with a special center finder or simply - with a reserve and by eye. The center is capped. To draw an indelible circle, I used the sharp legs of a caliper, the movable frame of which was fixed in the desired position. The hardened tool steel of the caliper is much harder than the zinc coating - no damage is caused to the tool.

The centers of the mesh holes were placed in 5mm increments, so it’s easier to mark using a ruler. The markings were applied with a mechanic's scriber and the intersections of the lines were marked.

It is convenient when the bottom of the sieve is somewhat concave - when shaking the contents, it moves better along the mesh, the residues collect in the center. To give this shape to the bottom, the workpiece was “forged” in a cold state on an anvil, with a medium-weight hammer, stretching the piece of iron with uniform blows in a spiral, starting from the center. Don’t be ashamed to use ear protection – your ears will ring less. It is not at all necessary to turn the workpiece into a hemisphere; a slight, visible convexity will be enough. An excessively curved workpiece, among other things, will be inconvenient to drill. This kind of operation is best done with a hammer with a semicircular striker, but the striker of a conventional striker, after some time of work, also becomes somewhat licked around the edges, in this case, this is quite enough.

Drilling a lot of holes isn't the most enjoyable pastime, but overall, nothing fatal. We encourage ourselves with the thought of the usefulness of the future creation; it doesn’t hurt to admire our own endurance. Drilling that occurs on particularly large scales can be mitigated by dividing all the work into small “approaches”, using your favorite music or, better yet, an audiobook. In order to distract the “eyes” (which are afraid). Here, with a drill of quite a decent diameter, less than two hundred holes, there is nothing to talk about.

We cut out a strip of the same steel, specify the length, clean it, tin it (including the edge of the long side), and solder the ends into a circle of the required diameter. Let me remind you that galvanized steel can be soldered very well with zinc chloride - “soldering acid”. The principle and procedure for structural soldering is the same as for electrical soldering - tin each part separately, fold it, and solder it. The only difference is that structural soldering, as a rule, requires more thorough and labor-intensive cleaning and a more powerful soldering iron (heating the soldering area).

The drilled mesh blank with the burrs removed was cleaned and tinned along the edge. I folded both parts, secured them with metal clothespins and soldered them.

When it cooled down, I cut off all the excess with metal scissors, removed it with a magic file and dulled it. All that remains is to rinse the finished strainer in hot water using a brush with short and stiff bristles. You can use old toothbrushes, if necessary, heat them with a hair dryer and mold its plastic handle into a comfortable position, you can take a regular paint brush and cut it into a “half-box”.

In the photo there is a freshly washed strainer; some kind of bug has flown in to have a look. The convexity of the mesh is clearly visible. Below is the aforementioned set of sieves.

A few final words.

Well, it seems everything is already? - Rumble until the end! - Rumble.

Film "Behind the Matches".

The result of the work was a useful, reliable little thing. The size of the sieve was dictated by the small amount of glass chips produced at one time in my mortar. The handle was considered unnecessary - not particularly convenient to store. If you are making all the sieves yourself, it will probably be appropriate to take care of their articulation - the larger ones on top of the smaller ones. This will reduce the amount of technological containers during sifting.

If necessary, you can use lead-free solder; this can expand, so to speak, the possible “habitat” of the piece of iron. Galvanized steel can be easily soldered with “soft” “burner” solder (tin-copper) and flux intended for installing copper water pipes, or radio installation tin-silver.

Homemade reliable sieves, of course, can and should be used not only for glass. The first thing that comes to mind is determining the granulometric composition (soil, bulk building materials), dispersing homemade hunting shot by numbers, or like the pilot brothers - “Remind me, colleague, what size is yours?”

Source

Operation process

A ready-made sifter of this type is convenient for one person to use without a partner. It is enough to fill the tray with the necessary material for sifting and start shaking from side to side in front of you. Another advantage of this design is that, if necessary, other trays with smaller or larger filters can be installed on the supporting base.

Source

DIY vibrating sieve (vibrating screen)

If anyone is doing their own construction or home renovation, a vibrating sieve can be a faithful assistant for you. Thanks to which, you can sift through various building materials: cement, gravel, sand, construction adhesive and more without any problems and extra effort, without wasting precious time. It’s one thing when you cement a yard in a country house, and quite another when you make a countertop, a window sill in a house, or lay tiles. Here you need well-sifted high-quality cement with the best adhesion properties. After all, the final result depends on the quality of the material. If you are not engaged in construction on an industrial scale and an expensive vibrating sieve is too tough for you, I suggest making a vibrating sieve with your own hands at home.

A vibrating sieve is also called a vibrating screen. For those who need to use such a device on an industrial scale, we recommend purchasing a vibrating screen on this site. A vibrating screen is an industrial equipment with a drive and vibration; it is used to sift out lump and bulk materials on a sieve with various fractions.

The components of a vibrating sieve are quite simple and affordable. Making such a design will not take much time or money. The vibrating sieve consists of:

• The base (frame) is where all the components will be attached; • electric saw (will act as a motor); • outer box on wheels; • inner box with a metal mesh instead of a bottom; • rails for moving boxes; • chute for storing sifted material; • outdoor unit to control the speed of the motor (power saw)

To make a vibrating sieve with your own hands we will need the following materials:

• beams (60 x 60 or 60 x 70 mm); to save money it is better to use pine; • not thick boards or a sheet of plywood with a diameter of 18-22 mm • six rubber shock absorbers; • four wheels – rollers; • piano loop; • metal corners and the same plates (for strength and reliability when fastening wooden parts); • hardware: bolts, screws, washers, nuts.

Making a tray for a sifter

Materials for this part are selected based on the requirements for the volume of work. It is important to determine what material and in what quantity you will have to deal with. The mesh can be metal wire or high-strength plastic.

Again, the choice will be determined by the nature of the target material, but it is important to consider that metal will fatigue more quickly during operation, although it will last longer. For better sifting quality, you can use two layers of mesh with different fractions.

The mesh is fastened to the tray using slats with correspondingly sized screws or self-tapping screws, and it is important to ensure that the fasteners grip the material securely. The design of the tray itself should also have comfortable handles. Don't count on them being an optional addition in the future. It is best if the handles extend directly from the base of the tray structure. However, the option of attaching handles that are well integrated into the tray body from the bottom or side can also justify itself.

On the back of the tray you need to make holes for the cord. It should be secured as securely as possible through hinges with an additional grip. The cord will hold the tray to the opposite corner posts. As an alternative solution, the rope can be passed through the back of the structure at one end and released at the other. In this case, the system will do without unnecessary nodes.

Rating
( 2 ratings, average 4 out of 5 )
Did you like the article? Share with friends:
For any suggestions regarding the site: [email protected]
Для любых предложений по сайту: [email protected]