10 Best Do-It-Yourself 3D Printing Manipulators

There are many different configurations of robotic arms, but most operate on the same general principles of motion. Unlike mechanisms that operate in a Cartesian coordinate system, such as, for example, 3D printers, manipulators mostly use a polar coordinate system for movements and have an arc-shaped work area. Robotic arms are unique in that they are not limited by footprint and take up very little space compared to other machines with similar functions.

In robotics there is such a definition as degrees of freedom (DOF). This term is used to refer to the number of rotating joints or axes on a particular arm, for example a 4DOF arm can rotate using four separate joints.

Robotic arms are used in a variety of ways, but most are capable of picking and moving, while some are designed to work in conjunction with CNC machines, laser engraving and even 3D printing.

Since there are hundreds of great designs and designs to sift through when choosing a good arm to buy or 3D print, we've narrowed it down to the 10 best and most popular arms that you can find and replicate using the capabilities of your 3D printer.

UFactory uArm

UArm is probably one of the most versatile of all the robotic arms on this list. Currently, this design already has a third release version - uArm Swift and the more functional Swift Pro.

This robotic arm is open source and fully compatible with Arduino, Raspberry Pi and Seeed Studio Grove kits. It's unique in that the Swift Pro can laser engrave and 3D print - provided it's equipped with the right heads - and can "learn" movements without the need for a computer.

This is a 4DOF manipulator with an accuracy of 0.2 millimeters.

You can find more details and where to buy it on the UFactory product page.

Lift for laying aerated concrete blocks

Abroad, during the construction of private houses, cranes and various lifts are often used. This way construction goes faster, which means the “box” is cheaper, because It is more profitable to use small-scale mechanization tools than to hire laborers. Our developer relies on himself and often builds a house “with one helmet.” Therefore, the urgent question is how not to physically overstrain yourself when laying a wall from aerated concrete blocks weighing 35-40 kg.

An interesting option is the unusual homemade “assistant” of the FORUMHOUSE user with the nickname Krestik. First, let's show what he took as a basis.

German mini crane with retractable central post

A special feature of the lift is the original folding “arm-boom”, with the help of which the crane, moving on wheels, can reach two opposite walls.

I am building a house myself and, in order to be able to lay aerated concrete blocks, I built a lift according to the above model. The crane was made completely collapsible, except for the base. I didn’t measure the maximum load on the hook, but it easily lifts me (weighing 95 kg).

Technical characteristics of the lift:

• width – 2200 mm;
• height – 4200 mm;
• boom radius – 4200 mm;
• load capacity of electric hoist – up to 800 kg;
• total weight of the crane with ballast is approximately 650 kg;
• lift weight without ballast – about 300 kg;
• The maximum lifting height of the masonry block is 3500 mm.

The working height of lifting blocks is adjustable in two ranges. The first is 1750 mm. The second is 3.5 m, for which the structure is raised, sliding upward along the supporting “legs” using a hydraulic jack lined with spacers made of GB blocks.

To make the lift, the user needed:

• swivel wheels;
• profile pipes for the mast, “legs” and boom with a section of 12x12 cm, 12x6 cm, wall 6 mm;
• pipe-jibs – 63x3 mm;
• powerful gate hinges;
• The boom rotating mechanism is made of ST45 steel and “205” bearings.

During operation, the design was modified. For example, the user laid the cable for the winch in a corrugated pipe and extended the cable for the control panel.

The design has a number of shortcomings that I would like to correct. For example, I’m thinking about making wireless control, replacing the gate hinges with bearings. Increase the number of “joints” in the boom at the same reach. Instead of a temporary counterweight - bags of sand concrete, pour concrete ballast.

Important nuance : in order for the lift to move around a construction site or, for example, on a concrete floor slab on the second floor, you need to keep the workplace clean, because GB fragments and debris interfere with the relocation of the tap.

The design of the unusual lift attracted the interest of portal users.

With such a lift, I think, as they do in Germany, you need to make masonry from blocks larger than standard ones. The length and height are 2-3 times greater than a regular GB. The crane has enough lifting capacity, and the laying speed will increase significantly.

According to Krestik, he heard that someone on the portal had already tried to order blocks of 1x0.4x0.6 m format from a gas silicate manufacturer. But it turned out that this was not profitable for the plant, because it is necessary to reconfigure the line for the production of GB, but for the sake of a small volume (for an ordinary private house) they will not do this.

I'm wondering: is the work on site easier when using a crane? What work can be done with it and what cannot?

There is no need to install scaffolding when laying GB walls. The lift can be assembled and disassembled. I poured the concrete lintels over the windows the old fashioned way, from buckets, because... The volume is small, and it’s easier to do it with one assistant.

The overall result: the mini-crane turned out to be successful, and with some modifications to its design, the lift can be put into small-scale production.

Thor

This robotic arm was developed by Hackaday AngelLM, which is completely open source and can be used for 3D printing. It is a 6DOF arm with a maximum payload of 750 grams and a unique design that allows for greater flexibility.

You can find all the files to 3D print this robot on the Thor project page.

EEZYbotARM MK2

The EEZYbotARM MK2 is a reference 4DOF robot arm, fully 3D printed with excellent assembly instructions. This robotic arm has won several competitions and is probably one of the easiest robotic arms to make. A MK3 version is also being developed.

You can find complete assembly instructions on the EEZYbotARM web page.

Roboteurs RBX1

This is another great 3D printed robotic arm that has amazing flexibility and aesthetics. In addition to purchasing the components yourself, Roboteurs offers a complete parts kit with a proprietary stepper motor driver to run the RBX1. All you need is a Raspberry Pi and a 3D printer. This arm is a 6DOF design and has a beautiful appearance.

You can find the entire specification and parts kit on the Roboteurs product page.

Checking servomotors

At this point, the servos should already be installed in the back of your robotic arm. To connect the servos to the Arduino and power supply, I used a small breadboard. Connect each servo motor's positive pin (red) to one breadboard rail, and each servo motor's negative pin (black or brown) to the other rail.

IMPORTANT! Remember to connect the Arduino pin to the negative rail: remember that all the ground pins must be connected to each other. The VCC pin can connect to different power supplies, but the GND must be the same.

Download the program to the Arduino (the program file is attached). Make sure that the connections of sensors, servomotors, etc. It was right. Put on the glove and turn on the Arduino. The servo motors should rotate depending on which finger you move. If the servos move, then everything is working!

If you are a more experienced Arduino user and know how to check the current values ​​from the bend sensors, you can adjust the range in the program to suit your realities. I'm assuming that all bend sensors are roughly the same, but if they are not, calibrating the sensors will definitely help you.

If the servos are not working correctly, make sure that you have connected them correctly (for example, when I was working on this project, I, as usual, forgot to connect the GND pin of the Arduino to the GND of the power supply and all the servos. In this case, nothing will work). Make sure everything works out before moving on.

LittleArm

LittleArm, a model developed by Slant Concepts on Hackaday.io, is the simplest robotic arm on this list. With only 3DOF, this arm can be a great introduction to Arduino programming for students and opens exciting doors of new technology for those new to the world of 3D printing and robotics.

This fully 3D printed arm is very easy to assemble. The creators have even developed an application with a simple interface for computers that can be used with this robot.

You can find full documentation on the LittleArm project page.

Installing sensors on the glove

We can start installing the sensors and our circuit board on the glove itself. First, drill a small hole in the plastic of the sensors. Holes are drilled in places where the sensing element has ended. IMPORTANT! Never drill a hole into sensitive material. After this, put on a glove. Make marks with a pencil or pen at the top of each joint. You will use these places to mount the sensors. The bend sensors are attached with ordinary thread. Sew the sensors to the glove. Use the hole you made on the ends of the sensor. In places where the joints are marked, the sensors are “grabbed” by the thread on top. All this is shown in more detail in the photo below. The circuit board is sewn to the glove in a similar manner to the sensors. Please note that for the fingers to move, you must leave a certain margin of length of the conductors. This must be taken into account when installing our circuit board and choosing the length of the connectors from it to the sensors.

3D Printable Robot Arm

Created by Andreas Helldorfer on Hackaday.io. This is a large robotic arm, completely 3D printed, with many possible uses. The creator developed it over 4 iterations before making a truly worthy industrial design that is available to everyone. With a 6DOF design and a maximum payload of up to 2kg, this manipulator can truly be used in many applications.

To find the 3D printable files for this arm and the full specifications, visit the project page.

Main characteristics

When making a homemade crane beam, it is better to focus on the technical parameters of factory-made models. These characteristics were calculated by qualified specialists, so they are optimally suited for multi-purpose use.

The characteristics of different modifications may differ, but in general, it looks like this:

• Work zone. The span length varies between 3-28.5 meters. You should not focus on this indicator: not every garage has such an area, so the length of the crane runway is selected based on the actual size of the room.
• Lifting height. Industrial lifts lift loads to a height of 6-18 meters. For private use, you can stop at the minimum option. For example, if we are talking about a simple hoist for a tractor or a passenger car, a lifting height of 1.5 meters is sufficient.
• Voltage. Electrical equipment operates from a three-phase network of 380V. If you intend to install a manually operated lifting device, this parameter is not relevant.
• Operating temperature range. Factory models work correctly at temperatures of -20/+40 degrees. This parameter must be taken into account when choosing components.

MeArm

MeArm is one of the most popular manipulators and for good reason. It consists of simple parts that can be laser cut or 3D printed and has a simple but robust 4DOF design.

This design is so popular that it is copied by two others on this list. This is a manipulator equipped with four servos and either an Arduino or a Raspberry Pi. It's available in several different colors as a kit, or you can make all the parts yourself.

To find pre-assembled kits, check out the MeArm product page.

To find 3D printable files, take a look at MeArm on Thingiverse.

Assembling the structure with your own hands

So that after the first use the arrow does not become deformed and there is no need to disassemble the entire structure, the issue of self-production must be approached as responsibly as possible.

In fact, the work involves performing 2 stages.

• Preparing the trailer. First you have to prepare the trailer itself. After all, installing a crane directly on the platform, especially when the floor is made of plywood, will not work. The crane will take up valuable space and will not provide the required efficiency. Therefore, it is better to make a knot outside the sides or cargo platform. Having prepared the site for the crane, the next stage will begin;
• Faucet manufacturing and installation. You can assemble a crane from scrap materials, but it is better to use high-quality components with the necessary parameters of strength and resistance to wear during operation. I'll tell you more about this a little later.

Now we will go through each stage separately.

Let me say right away that this is just an example that you can use as a basis or repeat it with absolute accuracy. Each trailer is different and has different capabilities, as well as the challenges faced by such a design.

Trailer preparation

Nobody forbids you to use ready-made drawings from the Internet. Just make sure first that they are correct, executed correctly and correspond to the actual characteristics of the resulting crane. Plus, do not forget that in some cases it is more correct and easier to install a winch for a trailer, rather than installing a homemade manipulator.

Perhaps someone will need an additional cradle or a larger boom. Everything is individual, but as an example one design is worth describing. You can always reinforce your acquired knowledge with the help of photo and video instructions presented on the Internet.

Before making the crane itself, let's prepare the trailer. The essence of the preparatory activities is as follows:

• prepare materials for the manufacture of the structure;
• make retractable stands from profile pipes and metal plates;
• thus the trailer will be more stable;
• based on a profile pipe, make a rectangular frame for mounting the crane itself;
• attach it to the crossbar of the subframe;
• fix the retractable leg inside one of the stand pipes;
• using sheet metal, cut out a platform of the required size;
• weld a piece of pipe to a sheet of metal;
• Using stiffening ribs, additionally connect the pipe to the platform for the tap.

As for materials, it is better to take a profile pipe with a cross-section of about 50x50 mm. Sheet metal should not be less than 5 mm thick. A piece of pipe for the base under the tap is taken around 90 mm in diameter. The length is arbitrary, but not less than 300 mm.

Lifting device

Now you have at your disposal a trailer on which there is a special stand and base for the future crane. Where exactly and on which side to make the platform, decide for yourself. There are different options here.

As for the lifting device, the work here involves performing the following operations:

• a stand is made from a pipe with a diameter of about 80 mm;
• two metal plates are fixed in parallel at one end of the rack;
• the base prepared on the trailer is welded to the second end;
• inside the base you can fill the balls from the bearings, lubricating them with oil;
• thereby the stand will rotate freely during operation;
• the boom is mounted between the plastics of the rack using a bolted connection;
• the boom can be made from pipes with a cross section of 60×60 and 50×50 mm;
• In order for the boom to be adjusted in tilt and reach, holes must be drilled in the pipes and plates;
• the sides are inserted into them;
• a hand winch is then welded to the boom.

Now all that remains is to bolt such a crane onto the trailer. It is not worth connecting the manipulator to the trailer using the welding method, since the traffic police officers are unlikely to praise you for going out on a public road with such a homemade creation.

This is just an example of how you can turn an ordinary trailer into a more functional trailer with your own efforts. Next, the choice is yours.

Share your thoughts and ideas on this matter. If you know how to improve the design, I'm waiting for your comments.

Zortrax Robotic Arm

The Zortrax 5DOF robotic arm isn't the most durable for its size, with a maximum payload of just 100 grams, but it has a very impressive design. And it's a fully 3D printed arm, making it worthy of a mention on the current list. Its uniqueness lies in the fact that only three axes are driven, while the rest are set manually.

This manipulator primarily found its application for feeding a set of interchangeable tool heads.

To find a complete list of part files, including those for 3D printing, visit the project page.

Inexpensive mini lift

Practice shows that when building a private house, a real crane is not always needed. Often, a developer can get by with “little expense” and make a small lift based on an electrically driven hoist.

My design is simpler than the authors above, but it suits me quite well. I bought a hoist with a load capacity of 300 kg without a block and 600 kg with a block. Tests have shown that the device can lift a load weighing 250-270 kg, then the engine protection is triggered. During the construction season, I used it to lift about 40 pallets with building blocks, a 6-meter beam for the mauerlat, rafters, mortar for masonry and concrete for the reinforced belt.

The lift, again to save money, is made from used pipes, angles and channels.

All rust was cleaned off with a grinder, and the pipes were sprayed and then painted with paint with a rust reducer.

In order to be able to assemble the lift on the ceiling of the second floor, all components (where welding is not needed) are made dismountable - with bolted connections.

A hoist is installed on the stand using clamps.

In case of rain, a plastic bottle with the bottom cut off is placed on the control panel.

The telpher covers a canopy made of used roofing iron.

When lifting a pallet, two boards are placed under it, and the pallet is lowered onto them.

The entire structure is fixed to the floor with clamps.

Drawing with dimensions of the lift.

These are topics that describe in detail how to make a lift for aerated concrete, and provide dozens of options for mini-cranes, from simple to the most complex designs.

BCN3D Moveo

BCN3D Moveo is an impressive 4DOF robotic arm controlled by Arduino. It is fully 3D printed, open source and has been well tested as a mockup for educational purposes and is already being actively used in educational institutions.

Being open source, this robotic arm is not limited to its intended use and, as such, can be modified to perform all sorts of tasks and can become either a dedicated home apprentice or used on an industrial scale.

For more information, visit the BCN3D Moveo webpage.

Installation of crane installation

1. The subframe can be welded from outer (18 mm) and inner (16 mm) channels. Before doing this, bend the planks so that they follow the shape of the frame. Insert the smaller rail into the larger channel, they should form a rectangle.
   Then weld the structure along its entire length. Subframe length – 70-980 cm under the crane boom + body size. Cut what you need after fixing the body. This way you can adjust its position.
2. Using stepladders, attach the prepared channels to the frame. Place a fire hose between them and the base. It is needed to align the planes of the planks and frame. To ensure that the subframe under the faucet is solid, weld the channel using a piece of corner. Weld it over the cross member of the base so that you can then bolt the channel to it.
3. . It comes with special stepladders.
   Use them to secure the faucet. Be sure to insert special spacers into the stepladders.
4. You can make spacers as follows. Take a piece of pipe with a diameter slightly larger than the cross-section of the stepladder. The length of the pipe should be half the height of the frame. Cut a rectangular piece of plate 7-10 mm thick. The smaller side of the segment should have a size of 7-9 cm, the larger side should fit snugly in height inside the frame. Weld the pipe to the plate in the middle. Next, tighten the stepladders tightly.
5. To prevent the manipulator from moving along the base, weld corners measuring 4x4 or 5x5 cm to its subframe perpendicularly from the back and front.
6. Now you can install the body on the gazelle. At the same time, leave a gap of 15-20 centimeters between the body and the truck crane. Secure the body cross members with bolts.
7. Your faucet is installed. All that remains is to connect the hydraulic pump, with the help of which the manipulator will operate.

First, general issues will be discussed, then the technical characteristics of the result, details, and finally the assembly process itself.

OWI Robotic Arm Edge

Another 4DOF design, the OWI Robotic Arm Edge is a simple robotic arm designed for educational purposes. It is only available as a kit.

When powered by DC motors without encoders, accuracy is limited, making this arm more suitable for use as a toy. We've included it on this list because it's a fantastic kit for students interested in robotics and technology, and it makes a great "desk toy" during boring lunch breaks. It can also be significantly modified to serve as a base platform for Arduino projects and other DIY developments.

You can purchase it on the OWI website, or Amazon, Aliexpress is also at your service.

How to make and install it yourself

You can install the truck crane yourself. It is installed on the vehicle. To do this, you need to remove the body from the chassis to change the subframe, because The factory design is weak and may crack. The subframe must be made with your own hands because attaching the crane installation directly to the frame is prohibited.

It can be welded from outer (18 mm) and inner channels. The planks are bent so that they follow the shape of the frame. The smaller rail is inserted into the larger channel to form a rectangle. Ready-made channels are attached to the welded frame. A fire hose is placed between them and the base to level the plane of the slats and frame.

The crane is installed on a subframe, which includes:

• beam;
• arrow;
• support posts;
• special stepladders.

The installation is secured using special stepladders. It is necessary to insert spacers into the stepladders, which can be made as follows:

1. A piece of pipe with a diameter slightly larger than the cross-section of the stepladder and a length of half the height of the frame is welded to a plate whose thickness is 7-10 mm. The smaller side of the rectangular plate is 7-9 cm, the larger one should fit tightly inside the frame.
2. Then tighten the stepladders tightly.

To prevent the power plant from moving, it is necessary to weld corners to the base subframe.

After installing the body, you need to leave a gap of 15-20 cm between the body and the truck crane. You also need to connect a hydraulic pump for the operation of the manipulator.

The crane can also be installed on a tractor. For example, you can install INMAN IM-16 on Belarus 80.1.