Homemade stationary circular saw

A circular hand saw is a convenient and functional tool for cutting wood blanks. With its help you can cut sheets of plywood, saw boards, trim timber, baseboards, trim, etc.

d. But when there is a large volume of work, for example, when building a house, it is more convenient to use a stationary version of the device. How to make a circular saw with your own hands from a hand tool?

Diagram of a homemade circular saw.

Construction and materials for a stationary saw

A homemade DIY circular saw can be made by securing a hand tool to a stable base. In the simplest version, the device is installed on wooden trestles or on a table mounted from plywood and boards. The tool is secured to the bottom of the plywood sheet, and a cut is made in the tabletop for the toothed disk.

The design parameters of the machine depend on the size of the material being processed. In accordance with it, the power of the hand tool is selected (800-1200 W or more). To perform a clean cut, it is better to install a model with a rotation speed of 3000-4000 rpm.

To manufacture the machine, you will need wood materials, fasteners and tools:

Tools for making a homemade circular saw.

plywood with a thickness of 20 mm; board for stiffeners and legs (50×100 mm); sandpaper, wood glue and varnish; bolts, screws, clamps; tape measure, pencil, ruler; jigsaw, drill, screwdriver.

The height of the table is selected according to the height of the master and is usually about 1 m; the length of the tabletop depends on the size of the materials that are planned to be processed.

Do-it-yourself circular: how to properly assemble a functional device

During the construction of a new house, when wood material is used in large quantities, a homemade circular saw will not be enough. And such a device will require more functionality. But when performing minor repairs, a homemade homemade circular saw becomes an indispensable technical assistant. We will tell you how to make a circular machine with your own hands in this article. Stationary circular saw: popular models (read more)

A DIY circular saw allows you to carry out safe work and speed up the construction process.
Quite often, the dimensions of wooden elements are determined directly during the work. The ability to independently provide the process with the necessary materials significantly saves money and time. And often the quality of wooden blanks is guaranteed to be higher.

Using a homemade homemade circular saw, you can cut boards into bars, make planks, slats, trim blanks, saw slabs of wood materials into fragments of the required sizes.

Using a homemade circular saw, you can make such types of furniture as a table, shelf, rack. A similar stationary home tool is applicable when creating wooden sports equipment, making containers, etc.

When installing a disk with certain technical characteristics on a sawing machine, the mechanism can be used as a circular saw for metal. It is allowed to saw soft aluminum and sheets of other types of metal, the thickness of which does not exceed 2 mm. When working with thicker material, the mechanism will overheat, triggering an automatic shutdown.

For harvesting firewood and simply cutting pieces of wood, a firmly fixed table with a slot for a saw is enough.

Making a countertop

The working surface is cut out of plywood using a jigsaw according to the accepted dimensions. The workpiece is processed with sandpaper or a sander. The edges of the table top are milled.

On the bottom side of the sheet, markings are made for attaching a hand saw. A sector is outlined for the hole for the disk.

If you plan to cut workpieces at different angles, the slot should have a trapezoidal contour with a downward expansion. The groove is cut with a hand-held circular saw; holes ø10 mm are first drilled at the ends of the intended sector. Holes must also be made in the tool frame and tabletop for bolt-on mounting.

Next, the stiffening frame is marked for the horizontal surface of the table. The edges along the perimeter should deviate from the edge of the tabletop by 5-10 cm. The boards cut to size are applied end-to-end to the markings on the bottom surface of the sheet, and their contours are outlined with a pencil.

Tabletop diagram for a circular saw.

A center line is drawn in the middle of the marked outline of the frame.

It marks places for screws for attaching the ribs. Through holes are drilled for fasteners with a chamfer on top to recess the caps. Self-tapping screws should be screwed in every 10-20 cm, from the corners of the frame - at a distance of 5 cm.

The boards are placed on wood glue along the intended perimeter and clamped with clamps.

After the glue has dried, without removing the clamping devices, screw in the self-tapping screws and screw the heads into the countersunk hole. In the corners, 2 self-tapping screws are screwed into the end of the frame. Then you need to attach stable legs to the finished tabletop.

Miniature Dremel saw

What you need to prepare for work:

Figure 1. It is better to print templates on cardboard or thick Whatman paper.

Dremel. A tool model 4000-5/36H or any other will do. Together with it, the kit usually includes 5 devices and 36 different accessories. The kit costs about $100.
Board 2.5x20x120 cm.
Board 2.5x5x120 cm.
Plexiglas 20x25 cm, thickness 2 mm – 2 pieces.
Clamp for fastening a pipe with a diameter of 2 cm – 4 pieces.
1/4″ bolts – 2 pieces.
Wing nuts 1/4″ – 4 pieces.
Insulation for pipes with a diameter of 2 cm - 1.8 m.
Screws 6x25 mm – 20 pieces.
Screws 4x16 mm – 12 pieces.
Drills with a diameter from 2 to 6 mm.
Screwdriver.
Knife.
Wood glue.

Work order:

From a board 2.5x20x120 cm you need to cut 2 pieces 25 cm long and 2 pieces 10 cm long.
From a board 2.5x5x120 cm, 4 pieces of 14 cm in length are sawn off.
Using a template pre-cut from thick paper or cardboard, markings are made on a 2.5x20x25 cm board (Fig. 1). The template is cut according to a specific Dremel model.
The board is sawn and drilled along the marking lines. The edges of the cutouts are machined so that the tool fits into the cutouts.
All parts are fastened to each other with screws.
The Dremel is inserted into place and secured with clamps. If necessary, some modification of the grooves and recesses is carried out.
The covering on the working surface is made of plexiglass.

Assembling a table for a circular saw

The boards prepared for the legs are cut to length at a slight angle, tapering downward.

The upper ends are also beveled so that the structure stands with a slight expansion. The legs are attached to the tabletop frame with bolts through drilled holes. For better connection strength, you can include square bars glued into the inner corners of the frame into the screed.

It remains to install the working mechanism in the circular saw. The hand-held circular saw is mounted to the machine tabletop from below. The disk is inserted into the cut-out slot, the device is secured with screws, the heads of which must be flush with the top of the plywood sheet.

As a protective layer for the material and to improve the sliding of workpieces, the tabletop and other wooden parts of the machine are coated with several layers of varnish. Markings can be applied to the surface of the tabletop to trim the ends of the baseboards or trim, which are prepared for miter jointing.

Assembly diagram for a table for a circular saw.

In another embodiment, the working plane of the machine is made of two metal plates.

They are attached to the frame with bolts leaving a gap for the disc. The holes for the bolts are countersunk from above to deepen the heads. The bar for controlling the size of the material being cut can be attached with clamps.

A more convenient stop for the part to be cut is made of a steel angle with shelves of 60 and 80 mm. Its length should be greater than the length of the table.

The ends of the narrow shelf are cut off, and the wide one is bent onto the tabletop. Holes are drilled in the ears and threads are cut for the clamping bolts. The guide strip from the corner is installed according to the workpiece template and fixed with bolts to the end of the tabletop.

If you constantly use the machine, it is better to make the table from steel corners by welding.

The power button can be mounted on the tabletop frame or mounted on the workshop wall using an extended cable to connect the machine. The power key on the saw body can be bypassed or simply secured with a clamp. Access to the machine shutdown device must be safe.

To cut small parts, you can make a mini-machine without a work table.

An old drill can serve as an electric drive for the sawing mechanism. A special shaft for insertion into the drill chuck will have to be ordered from a turner. The toothed disk and 2 bearings must fit firmly onto it.

The frame for installing the shaft is made of two parallel sections of hardwood boards with holes for pressing bearings. The working surface can be made of hardboard or plexiglass. The drill and frame of the device are attached to a board 30-40 mm thick.

The tool, mounted with the handle up, must be securely fastened with a clamp to the base in the cylindrical part of the body near the chuck. The board that serves as the base of the mini-circular is pulled to a regular table with clamps. The body of the inverted drill and the base plate should be at the same level.

The guide bar for a mini-circular saw can be made from a 50x50 mm block.

At one end of it, a stop cut from a board is rigidly fixed. It should be adjacent to the end of the work surface. A threaded pin is attached to the other end of the guide bar.

A second thrust element (bar) is put on it through a hole drilled in it. The stops are tightened by tightening the wing nut on the stud. The guide stop is installed at the required distance from the disk and secured like a clamp.

A homemade mini circular saw allows you to saw off parts of fairly small thickness.

At your discretion, you can improve a homemade circular saw in a simple design by installing additional elements and using other materials. The functionality of the machine can be improved by equipping it with a carriage for feeding material, changing the fastening of the working mechanism, and installing other additional devices for controlling the saw.

A circular hand saw is a convenient and functional tool for cutting wood blanks. With its help you can cut sheets of plywood, saw boards, trim timber, baseboards, trim, etc.

Diagram of a homemade circular saw.

Selection of materials and parts

When creating a homemade circular saw, it is necessary to maintain an optimal balance between its functionality, safety during operation and manufacturing costs. To achieve this, you should select materials and parts with the desired characteristics. To reduce costs, you need to start from old or unused equipment that is available.

Materials for making a bed with a table

To make a bed (frame), you can use a channel or metal corners (sizes from 25×25 mm to 50×50 mm are sufficient). If these materials are not available, then the most economical option is to purchase them at a scrap metal collection point. The legs of the machine will use water pipes or profile metal pipes.

Advice! Frame elements must be connected to each other using electric welding, because bolted connections unwind under the influence of vibrations.

When assembling the frame, it is also necessary to weld spacers at the corners to impart rigidity to the structure. To make it easier to move the machine, you can equip it with durable wheels (with a metal rim) equipped with locks. It should be borne in mind that the more massive the unit being created, the more stable it must be in order to avoid injury.

Metal pipe frame

The main requirements for a table for a circular saw: resistance to mechanical influences (vibration, shock), the ability to withstand workpieces weighing more than 50 kg without deflection, and surface smoothness . These properties characterize sheets of the following materials:

become;
duralumin;
silumin;
PCB;
moisture-resistant plywood;
organic glass.

If you use moisture-resistant plywood, then it should first be covered with zinc-coated sheet metal. The use of chipboard or OSB is not recommended due to the instability of these sheet materials to vibration influences.

Important! The strength of the table is of great practical importance. If it cracks or becomes distorted due to deflection, the disk may jam. This can lead not only to damage to the workpiece, but also to injury.

To carry out various work (for example, cutting logs into boards), you need to equip the table with a side support. It performs the same function as a guide bar for a hand-held circular saw: it ensures even sawing of lumber. Moreover, its use makes it possible to obtain workpieces of different sizes.

The guide stop must be strictly parallel to the disk to avoid jamming of the latter. It can be made from a wooden block or a metal corner. In the first case, only hardwood should be used. To be able to adjust the working gap, the stop must be removable. It can be fixed using clamps or in special grooves (bolts) made parallel to each other on the working surface of the tabletop.

Selection of engine and starting equipment

It is easiest to use a single-phase electric motor as a drive for the considered version of a homemade circular machine. Its power must be selected taking into account the upcoming load. Indirectly, you can navigate by the diameter of the installed disk:

if it is 350 mm, then for normal operation of the unit you need an electric motor with a power of 1000 W;
for a disk with a diameter of 170 mm, a 500 W motor is sufficient.

In the latter case, you can make a drive mechanism from an engine from an automatic washing machine. It is able to work for a long time at an average load level. For disks with a diameter of 350 mm, an electric motor from an industrial ventilation unit is suitable. It should be secured firmly to ensure proper engagement of the belt drive. For this reason, it will not be possible to reduce the level of vibration by installing the motor on shock absorbers: it will constantly oscillate.

You can also equip homemade equipment with a three-phase electric motor (380 V) of suitable power. To start it from a 220 V network, you will need to additionally install working (phase-shifting) and starting capacitors into the electrical circuit. It should also be taken into account that the engine power will be less than the nominal value indicated on its plate or in the passport.

Starting equipment should be selected based on the power of the motor, on which the maximum current in the circuit will depend. A good option is to use a start button in conjunction with thermal protection - this will protect the electric motor from burning out the windings if the current increases when the disk jams . It is better to install the protection in a separate electrical panel attached to the side panel of the machine on the convenient side.

All connections must be well insulated so that the wires do not short-circuit to the frame of a homemade circular electric saw. The on and off buttons should be pressed without any effort. Due to the frequent storage of equipment outdoors, it is necessary to protect the electrical part well from getting wet. The simplest thing is to cover the installation with oilcloth or similar waterproof material.

Gear, shaft and disc

To transmit rotation from the electric motor to the disk, the best option is to use a V-belt in conjunction with pulleys from the car engine. The use of gears is not recommended for safety reasons. This is due to the fact that if the disk jams, the belt will simply slip, and the gear drive, due to its rigidity, can cause failure of the entire drive unit.

Advice! If you use pulleys of different diameters, you can change the speed of the disk and install different types on the machine. This is true if there is no motor speed controller.

It is better to entrust the manufacture of the shaft to a specialist by ordering it from a professional turner. Moreover, when you plan to make a circular electric saw more functional by equipping it, for example, with a plane. But the simplest option is to buy a ready-made factory-produced part. A sample of it is shown in the photo below.

It is recommended to use self-aligning ball-type bearings together with the shaft. The mounts for them will fit from the car hub kit. In this case, the bearings should be well protected from dust.

It is easier to buy a disk for a circular machine ready-made than to make it from a sheet of tool steel. The problem is one of balancing. An imbalance of the saw during operation of the equipment leads to its rapid failure and reduces the level of safety of the work process. If you have a circular saw for wood, you can remove the saw blade from it.

It is necessary that the diameter of the disk corresponds to the corresponding parameter of the sawn timber: for example, for 100 mm logs you will need to use a saw measuring approximately 350 mm. This is due to the fact that the disk should not protrude more than a third of its diameter above the working surface of the table.

Ignoring this requirement not only leads to a deterioration in the quality of sawing workpieces, but also increases the possibility of injury.

Construction and materials for a stationary saw

To manufacture the machine, you will need wood materials, fasteners and tools:

Tools for making a homemade circular saw.

plywood with a thickness of 20 mm; board for stiffeners and legs (50×100 mm); sandpaper, wood glue and varnish; bolts, screws, clamps; tape measure, pencil, ruler; jigsaw, drill, screwdriver.

The height of the table is selected according to the height of the master and is usually about 1 m; the length of the tabletop depends on the size of the materials that are planned to be processed.

Manual circular as the basis of a homemade design

One of the most popular tools on the basis of which homemade saw structures are created at home is a circular saw (hand-held circular saw). This electric mechanism, using a round disk, makes straight cuts on wood materials, as well as on soft and thin metal. The tool is quite simple, it has all the basic elements that allow you to make a circular saw from a circular saw with your own hands.

The circular saw consists of the following parts:

electric motor;
one or two handles;
protective casing;

A manual circular saw makes straight cuts on wood materials, as well as on soft and thin metal.

holding platform (to allow disc alignment);
riving knife (prevents the saw blade from getting stuck in the wood).

Manual circular saws stand out from other similar tools due to some technical features. For example, the depth and angle of cutting can be changed directly during work. Plunge-cut saws provide special capabilities. They can make isolated fragmentary cuts of the required size.

The accuracy and quality of sawing with a manual circular saw depend on the number of teeth on the disk and the angle of their sharpening. With a large number of teeth, the quality is higher, but productivity is slightly reduced.

When making a circular saw with your own hands from a hand-held circular saw, you need to pay special attention to the engine power. This is very important if you intend to perform significant amounts of work. The total weight of the saw also matters. Lightweight models are suitable for occasional sawing.

It is permissible to change the depth and angle of the cut directly during operation of the circular saw.

Making a countertop

The working surface is cut out of plywood using a jigsaw according to the accepted dimensions. The workpiece is processed with sandpaper or a sander. The edges of the table top are milled.

On the bottom side of the sheet, markings are made for attaching a hand saw. A sector is outlined for the hole for the disk.

Tabletop diagram for a circular saw.

A center line is drawn in the middle of the marked outline of the frame.

The boards are placed on wood glue along the intended perimeter and clamped with clamps.

Making a carriage for a circular saw with your own hands

The functionality and quality performance of a stationary circular saw is greatly influenced by the availability of accessories. One of these is the carriage. It’s not difficult to do it at home, but trimming and sawing the material at an angle of 45° will be much easier.

You can make this device for a circular saw from a sheet of plywood as follows:

plywood is cut out to a size slightly wider than the circular table;

You can make the carriage for the circular saw yourself.

in the lower part, guide bars are attached to it using glue or screws, the distance between which should be equal to the width of the table;
In a similar way, using screws or glue, thrust bars are fixed on top.

Using guides, the carriage is fed along the table onto a saw blade, which makes a through cut on the device. The height of the sides, which should be greater than the protruding saw blade, allows you to maintain the integrity and rigidity of the carriage. If the task is to make a cut at an angle of 45°, it is necessary to use an additional bar, which in this device is a removable element. The cut is made by pressing the workpiece against an angled plank.

In order for the plywood surface of the carriage to be easily cleaned of sawing waste, it must be coated with several layers of varnish.

The plywood should be slightly wider than the table of the table.

Assembling a table for a circular saw

The boards prepared for the legs are cut to length at a slight angle, tapering downward.

Assembly diagram for a table for a circular saw.

In another embodiment, the working plane of the machine is made of two metal plates.

A more convenient stop for the part to be cut is made of a steel angle with shelves of 60 and 80 mm. Its length should be greater than the length of the table.

If you constantly use the machine, it is better to make the table from steel corners by welding.

Step-by-step instructions for making the machine

The technology we offer does not involve the use of complex woodworking machines and equipment; this makes the process much easier for beginners. Before starting, it is recommended to make a simple device in the form of a large wooden square. It is made from a 10×30 mm block and a 10×50 mm strip of plywood. It will greatly simplify the process of marking and checking the correct dimensions of individual machine parts.

The table is made from old laminated chipboard, but special moisture-resistant plywood for concrete work is excellent. If you have the opportunity, buy this material, you won’t regret it. It is better to choose foreign manufacturers, but it will cost more.

Step 1. Cut out the material for the tabletop.

Cutting the material for the tabletop

The specific dimensions do not matter much; proceed from the size of the shield and the free space in the workshop. You need to understand that workpieces are better held on a long table, which makes cutting long boards easier.

To ensure an even and perpendicular cut, use the prepared device, the rail should rest against the edge of the chipboard, and the saw should slide along a strip of plywood secured with a clamp.

Fixed rail

Sawing off chipboard

Our central part of the machine table is 36 cm wide, two side parts are 18 cm wide. Between them, wooden slats made of hardwood will be installed for attaching the cross-cut carriage. This carriage makes trimming and cutting parts much easier.

Measuring the distance for sawing chipboard

Sawing process

Three parts of the tabletop, between which there will be loose slats that move along with the carriage while cutting materials

Step 2. Place the saw on the center of the table and use an awl to trace the outline of the metal pad.

Marking

Step 3. Drill holes in the corners of the table; this can be done with an ordinary drill or on a drilling machine.

Drilling holes

Step 4: Using an electric jigsaw, carefully cut out the opening for the saw.

Cutting an opening for a saw with a jigsaw

Using this as a template, draw the liner and use a jigsaw to cut it out.

Liner markings

Cutting out the liner

There are options not to make an insert; in this case, the maximum cutting depth is reduced. Make a specific decision depending on the planned use of the saw, but practitioners always advise relying on maximum parameters. The fact is that no one can foresee the requirements for a machine in the long term.

Step 5. Attach the saw to the table. Adapt various available materials for this, select them according to length and thickness.

The saw needs to be secured

Photo of a saw on a tabletop

Important. Never screw screws into chipboard without first drilling a hole. The slab is not designed to withstand such loads and may crack.

Secure the saw to the back of the table.

The saw is secured with a block and a metal plate

Bottom view

Step 6: Reinstall the liner. It is made from durable material, preferably steel or aluminum, but plastic will also work. The liner must withstand strong shock loads that occur during sawing; chipboard cannot cope with such tasks.

Liner markings

Hardware used for fastening

The part is fixed to the saw blade, you need to prepare holes and use various hardware.

Fixed liner

Step 7. Make markings for the sides of the tabletop; they will be fixed using self-tapping screws. Attach all parts of the table to the cross rods with glue. On the front side, they are additionally screwed with self-tapping screws with countersunk heads; the holes for them must be countersunk.

Step 8: Check the movement of the wooden slats. If they jam in some places, then you need to find the cause and eliminate it. The slats should slide freely, but without wobbling.

Checking the travel of the racks

Practical advice. It is much easier to install metal profiles instead of slats. This requires less time, and the quality of the machine’s work increases significantly.

Example of a table for a circular saw, metal profiles installed

You can buy profiles at any hardware store; if possible, purchase aluminum elements. They have a low coefficient of friction, which is very important for the smooth movement of the cross-cut carriage.

Step 9. Attach chipboard or plastic boards to the bottom of the table; they prevent the slats from falling out.

Test the operation of the machine. Temporarily place it on a flat surface, plug it in and cut a few boards.

Switch for easy switching on of the saw

Immediately pay attention to uncharacteristic sounds and vibrations. It is necessary to find out the reason for their appearance and eliminate them immediately. At this stage of manufacturing a stationary circular saw, adjustments are much easier to make than on a fully assembled mechanism. Everything is normal - continue assembling the equipment.

Video - Simple sawing machine

Video - Circular saw table

Manufacturing of table side supports and sawing devices

Once you have corrected any problems found during testing, use your saw to make blanks for the sides of the table. The sizes are arbitrary, you can link them to your actual needs and the parameters of available materials.

Step 1. Prepare blanks for the sidewalls.

Practical advice. To speed up the trimming process, attach a temporary device to the saw - attach a small piece of flat board under the square to the rail with self-tapping screws.

After trimming the workpieces, the temporary device is removed and the machine returns to its previous state.

Step 2. Place the table on permanent legs, drill holes and countersink them for countersunk screw heads.

Step 3. Attach boards of the appropriate length to the bottom of the sides. They strengthen the structure and increase the support area. This increases the stability of the structure, which is very important for a compass machine.

Interesting fact. Have you ever wondered why all the old machines have a heavy cast frame? In those days, the domestic industry could not produce precise parts for high-speed mechanisms, because of this, beats inevitably appeared during their operation. The heavy bed dampened vibrations and improved the quality of processing. This is to point out how important the quality of all circular elements is.

Step 4. Test the structure again, this time applying maximum loads.

Device for feeding sawn materials

Side support of the table

Video - Homemade stop for a circular saw

Making the carriage

Carriage diagram

It is made from a chipboard shelf 16 mm thick.

Step 1. Drill holes for the runners along the edges and countersink them. The distance between fasteners is approximately 10 cm.

Step 2. Screw the base of the carriage to the wooden slats installed on the tabletop. Check its progress; if there are problems, the sliding wooden surfaces can be smeared with soap or paraffin. Large jams will have to be sanded with fine sandpaper. Work very carefully, check the progress, do not remove excess material.

Step 3. Screw the two backs, constantly measure the corners, they should all be straight.

Step 4: Cut the hole for the saw. This is done in several stages.

Place the carriage in the grooves, lift it up, the plane should not touch the saw teeth.
Turn on the saw and slowly lower the carriage. The hole is sawed until the carriage is lowered to a horizontal position.
Carefully make a hole along the entire length of the carriage.
Check the angle, achieve the correct position. If everything is normal, then you need to additionally secure the carriage backs.

Step 5. Install a stop parallel to the saw and make sure it works.

Carriage for table circular saw

Front view. For ease of movement, the carriage is equipped with a handle

The stationary circular saw is ready for use; you can make various wood products with your own hands. This is a very exciting and rewarding process.

How to saw a board evenly lengthwise and crosswise

Video - Carriage for circular saw

A stationary circular saw greatly increases productivity and improves safety. Every novice craftsman should have such a machine; it can be made using a minimal set of tools. We talked about only one option for making a saw, but there are many other equally interesting solutions. How to make different types of tables for a circular saw can be read on the pages of our website.

DIY mini circular saw

To cut small parts, you can make a mini-machine without a work table.

The guide bar for a mini-circular saw can be made from a 50x50 mm block.

At one end of it, a stop cut from a board is rigidly fixed. It should be adjacent to the end of the work surface. A threaded pin is attached to the other end of the guide bar.

A homemade mini circular saw allows you to saw off parts of fairly small thickness.

The presence in the household of the necessary minimum tools for simple work fully justifies the need to have a small box with the simplest tools in everyday use.

But when the need arises to carry out simple repairs or realize a long-standing dream of a small hobby, then the need arises to purchase or independently manufacture a simple but very necessary carpentry tool - a stationary circular saw.

The practical use of this kind of tools varies from one craftsman to another, but one thing everyone agrees on is that such a machine is simply necessary in a household tool park.

In practical terms, a stationary circular saw is needed:

for longitudinal dissection of wood; for trimming the edges of unedged boards to obtain smooth sides; for obtaining planks, slats, boards of the same size; for removing part of a board (quarter) to create a tight connection of boards in a panel. In purely economic terms, a circular saw is simply necessary for cutting firewood from wood processing waste.

At the same time, if you approach the issue of machine equipment creatively and put in a little more effort, the result can be a machine with a whole set of universal functions:

sawing; grinding; planing; drilling; tool sharpening.

Design of a stationary circular saw

A stationary circular saw is designed to perform fairly large volumes of work. The design of the implemented option in two forms is presented in the diagram below. It also shows the main dimensions of the installation, which are recommended to be used as a starting point for self-assembly.

In the drawing, the numbers correspond to the following structural elements of homemade equipment:

1 – frame (bed);
2 – side panel;
3 – starting device;
4 – mechanism for adjusting the height of the table, 13 – its stops;
5, 6 and 7 – two halves of the sawing table with a base;
8 – electric motor;
9 – platform for installing the motor;
10 – studs (M10);
11 – saw;
12 – shaft;
14 and 16 – driven and driven pulleys, respectively;
15 – belt;
17 – switch.

Advice! To improve personal safety when operating a homemade mechanism, its rotating parts located under the table should be covered with lids. A protective cover must be installed over the disk during equipment downtime.

It is better to place the starting device in a visible place on the panel (made of dielectric material) so that access to it is free. It is also recommended to equip the machine with an emergency switch. It is convenient when it is large in size.

Focusing on your own needs, you can improve the unit by making it with a jointer or planer. To do this, it is enough to secure a drum with knives on the existing shaft, and make a slot of the appropriate size in the table for it. This will allow you to expand the functionality of the created installation: plan lumber on it, chamfer and select a quarter from wooden blanks.

If you plan to regularly perform carpentry operations using homemade equipment, it is recommended to equip it with a coordinate table with several guides. They need to be fixed at different angles. To organize productive work, it should also be possible to regulate the speed of the electric motor and quickly replace disks if necessary.

How can you make a circular?

As with reinventing the wheel, there is no definite answer; each individual case has its own path of search and discovery.

But, basically, when asked how to make a circular saw, craftsmen make attempts in several directions:

improvement of existing hand tools, adapting them as main parts - an electric motor and a circular saw; improvement of an industrially manufactured tool for the specific application; assembly of a machine from individual elements - shaft, motor, bed; independent production of all parts of the structure, well, except for the electric motor .

Design elements of a self-made wood sawing machine

To make a stationary machine for sawing materials at home, you first need to know what structural elements it consists of. Whether it’s a homemade machine made from a manual circular saw, a grinder, or a tool assembled from disparate elements, the set of basic parts is the same.

The surface of the table must be made smooth for a higher quality product at the output.

The main elements of stationary circular installations are:

Table for connecting and securing mechanisms. If the circular saw is powerful and massive, it is better to use a metal table. Options made from chipboard, wood, plywood are suitable, the main thing is that the surface is smooth.
Shaft. The most important detail. When making it, a lathe is used separately. The dimensions should be calculated accurately to avoid runouts.
Casing. This element ensures safe use of the circular saw.
Engine. When using a grinder or circular saw, it is part of the power tool.

On a note! If the design is supposed to be prefabricated, then when creating a circular machine with your own hands, the engine from a washing machine will be the most successful option.

The design of the circular must necessarily have moving parts of the drives, and a button must be built into the power supply circuit to stop the engine in emergency situations.

Circulars of any fixed type consist of main parts.

Manual circular design

The simplest and relatively inexpensive way to make a stationary machine for cutting wood using a circular saw is to convert a manual mounting circular saw into a stationary one. The essence of the modification is to create a standard model of a stationary bed and work table for an industrially manufactured sample.

This modification will allow you to attach the saw upwards with the tool frame, secure it to the work table, and thus use it as a small circular saw. The guide for cutting planks is made from a steel angle 25x25 mm, it is attached to the work table.

The frame itself is welded from 25x25 mm corners, taking into account that the largest standard size of a circular saw is 230 mm, then such a frame is sufficient to create a lightweight, portable but stationary saw, the main use of which is small work that does not require long-term electric motor voltage.

This use case is implemented in some models of domestic and foreign manufacturers of power tools, in which any hard surface is used as the base of the machine, and the mounting saw itself is attached to the base using clamps.

Features of assembling a circular saw with your own hands from a grinder

Not every home workshop has a circular saw, but almost any owner who does certain household work with his own hands has a grinder. To create a stationary saw installation, you will also need a workbench or a special table; the tool will be attached from below, like a circular saw.

Attaching to the angle grinder is done using bolts.

But then the assembly process is somewhat more complicated. To make a circular grinder with your own hands, as practice shows, you need to think carefully about the option of attaching a hand tool to the frame.

This could be the following way:

A metal band clamp is pulled on the grinder, the tie of which should be at the bottom.
A strip of metal folded in half is attached to the holes for the sliding stop.
Holes are made in the gearbox of the power tool. The body is first disassembled and drilling locations are marked.
Using the holes made, an additionally manufactured axial handle is attached.

The handle can be made from a metal tube or rod. The workpiece needs to be shaped like a staple. In those places with which it will be attached to the gearbox, it is also necessary to make holes. Great and serious help for making a circular grinder with your own hands - drawings. They will allow you to correctly calculate the dimensions and number of elements, and prevent errors when calculating fastening locations. If it is difficult to complete the diagram of the future unit yourself, you can use ready-made drawings offered on the Internet.

To make a circular grinder from a grinder, you need to think carefully about the option of attaching the tool to the frame.

Tabletop small circular

This option involves making the machine body from wood or an iron angle or profile pipe, taking into account the fact that the placement of the tool will be in a desktop version.

Since the base will be small, the use of such a tool opens up new possibilities. Such a woodworking machine allows you to carry out work in any convenient place. The principle of creating such a machine is similar to how a hand-held circular saw is created - a body, a top plate, a device for fixing a mounting saw or an angle grinder, in the case of using an angle grinder as an engine, are made for the base. Separately, To maintain maximum safety, you need to provide a button to turn the power supply on and off for the tool, and a mechanism for locking the power buttons on the saw or grinder itself. For ease of operation, it is recommended to make the guide bar with guides for fixing the stop into the base body, thereby increasing the reliability of fastening. For clamping here, it is recommended to use bolts with wing nuts, thus further creating ease of operation.

Larger saw

Figure 2. Connection diagram between the motor and the electrical network.

You can build a more powerful machine based on any electric motor:

The frame is welded from pieces of profile pipe with a cross-section of 30x30 mm. The design option can be either tabletop or floor-standing. You can also purchase a shaft for installing knives, then the circular saw can be used as an electric jointer for planing small workpieces.
A sheet of metal 3-4 mm thick is attached to the top of the frame with countersunk screws. You can replace it with a sheet of textolite or thick plywood covered with thin sheet metal on top.
The engine and the shaft on which the cutting disc is mounted are connected by a belt drive.
The connection diagram between the motor and the electrical network is shown in Fig. 2.
A switch and a capacitor block are installed in a convenient place. Externally, a mini circular saw may look like in Fig. 3.

To construct the saw body, you can use wooden blocks with a cross-section of approximately 80x60 mm. The frame, if desired, is sheathed with sheet material. The assembly of a wooden structure is carried out using self-tapping screws or bolts and nuts. The main mechanism is located under the tabletop. It consists of an electric motor, a working spindle and a disk.

The spindle can be assembled from a bicycle pedal assembly. The disc is selected with a diameter of 12-13 cm. This is quite enough for everyday needs. The engine must be constantly blown with air during operation. General layout of the machine: Fig. 3. Individual components and parts may differ significantly from those shown in the diagram.

Making the stop and preparing the necessary holes

For a stationary saw intended for longer operating hours, the presence of a reliable stop for fixing the thickness of standard opening boards is an important and necessary condition.

The emphasis itself is made of metal or using a metal base and individual wooden parts.

The most acceptable option is to create a stop from a 100x100 mm corner, with metal plates of at least 5 mm thick welded to it with slots along the length. The length of the stop must be no less than the length of the working plate of the circular saw. The length of the plates must correspond to the width of the working surface of the stove.

Holes are drilled in the body through the work plate:

on the edge through the machine frame; in the middle of the work plate.

The holes should form a regular rectangle with the vertices in the center of the holes.

The holes are necessary so that on the inside of the machine in these places, on strips reinforced with a strip of metal 5-6 mm thick, nuts are welded to fix the clamping bolts of the stop.

When making a stop and drilling holes, you need to take into account that the stop must be parallel to the plane of the saw.

Do-it-yourself stationary circular saw from a manual circular saw

The operational capabilities of a hand-held circular saw are significantly increased if it is converted into a stationary tool. To understand how to turn a manual circular saw into a stationary one, you should first understand the methods of rigidly attaching a power tool.

You can use metal or wood trestles as a stand. This can be either one or two products (if the sizes are small), connected to each other by boards with a thickness of at least 50 mm or bars with a similar cross-section. Next, you need to attach a tabletop to the top of the stand, which will serve as a bed.

For these purposes, it is convenient to use thick plywood (at least 10-12 mm) or two sheets of thinner material joined together, which together will give the same thickness. Panels made of particle boards or metal are also suitable. If the metal is thin, it is better to attach it to a wooden base.

The hand saw is installed from below. First, the necessary groove is made in the tabletop to extend the disk.

A tabletop needs to be attached to the top of the stand, which will act as a bed.

Note! It is necessary to fix the tool so that the saw blade is positioned strictly parallel to the cutting lines, that is, at the same distance from the sides. Otherwise, it will not be possible to correctly install additional devices and achieve high-quality cutting.

Using the above technical methods, you can make a circular saw from a grinder. But this hand-held power tool has certain differences, so a slightly different assembly scheme will be required.

Making the adjustment rod handle

Adjustment of the cutting depth or the height of the saw exit above the working plate is adjusted on the frame in two ways:

creating a lifting mechanism for the working plate; creating an adjusting mechanism for raising and lowering the axis of the circular saw and the motor with a belt drive.

The plate lifting mechanism can be constructed by fixing the metal plate to the machine frame using long bolts. Lifting will be carried out by tightening the locking and fixing nuts on each bolt.

The second type of lifting mechanism can be represented as:

guides along which the carriage with the shaft and motor moves; an adjusting rod with fixing nuts; handles with an applied adjustment scale.

The adjustment rod itself can be replaced with a standard metal threaded stud. This option is even more profitable than inventing new methods.

The adjustment handle can be made by welding a metal plate to the end of the stud. At a distance of 4-5 mm from the center of the plate, aligned with the center of the stud, holes are drilled for self-tapping screws.

For ease of operation, a rod is welded to the end of the plate in such a way that the entire structure can be rotated using it.

As a scale, you can use a round washer made of multilayer plywood or plastic - it is put on a pin and fixed, on the one hand, with self-tapping screws, on the other hand, it is pressed with a nut.

Having assembled the entire lifting mechanism, a scale corresponding to a certain lifting height of the working plate is applied experimentally to the plywood.

How to make a shaft for a circular saw with your own hands

In the general design of a circular saw, the shaft is the main element that forms the entire machine. To make it, you will need round steel grade 45. But you can only make this important part yourself if you have your own lathe or have access to it. The diameter of the workpiece must correspond to the size of the saw blades that are intended to be used.

Main standard sizes of disk mounting holes:

16 mm;
20 mm;
22 mm;
30 m;
32 mm;
50 mm.

From the indicators listed above, the size of the shaft for the circular is selected.

To make the shaft you will need steel round timber grade 45.

The most common hole diameter is 32 mm. This is the mounting socket that discs with different outer diameter sizes have. Alternatively, you can make a thinner shaft so that you can do “jewelry” work. Then an adapter will be used to use large disks. It is worth complicating the design of a home circular in this way only in cases where it will be used by a professional.

The saw blades are installed between two flanges and pressed using a nut, which is screwed onto a thread made on the edge of the working surface of the shaft.

Note! The thread must be left-handed. During the inevitable jerk when starting the circular, the nut in this position will tighten, and not vice versa.

Seats for bearings are determined taking into account the dimensions of the latter. The middle part of the shaft has the largest diameter. If the indicator is significant, additional load on the belt will be created during rotation. Drilling will help get rid of the problem, which will lighten the heavy part of the shaft.

The diameter of the workpiece must correspond to the size of the saw blades.

Making a benchtop tool

For comfortable work with machines, it is necessary to provide, in addition to the elements already mentioned, other tools and devices necessary for normal operation:

on the working plate, for convenience, it is recommended to apply a centimeter jackal, “0” of which corresponds to the side of the saw blade; to protect against accidental chips and splinters, it is recommended to install a protective screen made of transparent plastic above the disk; to facilitate cutting, when additional force is needed to press the board, it is recommended to consider installation of a pressure roller or wooden pressure plates; to facilitate the work and prevent the board from falling back, it is necessary to install thrust plates.

Do-it-yourself parallel fence for a circular saw

The parallel stop is a mandatory device on a circular table; without it, it is almost impossible to make an even cut. You can make it yourself as follows:

A U-shaped profile should be made from three strips of laminated chipboard; inserts should be placed and fixed inside, which will add rigidity. The result will be a square section.
A guide channel is made from two parallel slats, which is bolted to the end of the table in a position perpendicular to the saw blade.
An inverted T-shaped structure is then made from MDF, which is screwed to the stop and inserted into the channel.

You can make a parallel stop for a circular saw yourself.
Note! The width of the channel should be such that the side of the T-shaped element fits tightly into it.

To fix the stop of a homemade circular saw made by yourself, it is convenient to use the original slots. Threaded bolts, nuts and wooden washers are suitable as a locking mechanism; you will need a hole in the bottom plane of the stop. Tightening the bolt helps to securely press the stop to the table top. This design allows you to quickly and easily set the required cut sizes.

Required tools and materials

To correctly and reliably connect parts and create a rigid structure capable of withstanding heavy loads, you will need:

tools: grinder with cutting wheels; welding machine; hammer; drill with a set of drills; marking tools - tape measure, meter, square, scriber, core; consumables - electrodes, metal brushes; clamps, vice materials: metal corners or profile pipe; metal sheet for the work plate; bolts, washers, nuts, studs; metal strip; hardwood boards;

What discs should you use for circular saws?

The productivity and quality of work largely depends on the correctly selected disk for a hand-made circular saw made from an angle grinder, a hand saw, or one assembled from separate mechanisms. It should be remembered that there are differences between discs for wood and metal. Even if thin, soft aluminum will be sawed, the appropriate blade must be installed. Metal cutting wheels have finer teeth. There are universal disc options that are suitable for working with both wood and metal.

There are also differences between the discs intended for longitudinal and transverse sawing of wood. Longitudinal sawing is carried out with a cutting attachment with sparse large teeth. But cross-cutting will be of better quality if discs with fine, frequent teeth are used.

As for the material and method of manufacturing disks, they can be monolithic or carbide. Monolithic ones are made from a single piece of high-carbon steel. Such bits are inexpensive, but have a significant drawback: they quickly become dull and require sharpening and re-wiring.

Circular discs can be made for wood or metal.

Carbide discs are made of tool steel with cobalt and tungsten brazing. They are more wear-resistant, but the price of such products is much higher.

The outer diameter of the disks for a homemade circular saw is limited by the dimensions of the protective casing. The standard disc thickness is 3.2 mm. There are thinner and thicker saw wheels. Thin ones are used when working with wood of valuable tree species to make a clean cut. For rougher work, thick discs are recommended.

Making a crosscut from a circular saw with your own hands

Laying a wooden floor, replacing platbands, covering the facade with plank, clapboard, and creating landscape design elements require a dimensional board. The process of preparing such a board is called trimming. That is, the ends of the material are cut off in order to obtain the desired size of the workpiece and make the cuts aesthetically pleasing.

Do-it-yourself trimming makes work faster and more economical.

To make a crosscut from a manual circular saw with your own hands, you will need available materials and used tools.

The standard characteristics that a future trim should have are:

maximum cutting length – 350 mm;
optimal engine speed – 4500 rpm;
light weight.

The upper part of the power tool is attached to the kingpin using a large bearing - 150 mm (it is not difficult to purchase on the market.) Ears are attached to the outside of the bearing. They are used to fasten the tool to the surface of the frame using M6 screws.

The main devices for making a circular saw with your own hands are car shock absorbers (they are convenient to use as a broach), a soft start button and additional protection that is attached to the power tool and the bed.

The upper part of the crosscut is attached to the kingpin using a bearing.

Note! Before assembling the structure, the shock absorbers must be disassembled, the oil drained and air holes made.

The advantages of a homemade miter saw include the following:

The design is easy to disassemble, and the power tool can be used for its intended purpose.
Low cost. Without taking into account the price of the instrument (used), the costs will be no more than 500 rubles.

Among the significant disadvantages, it is worth highlighting the high noise level. It is almost impossible to eliminate this drawback. In addition, it is necessary to make a test cut (selecting and fixing the draft) to ensure good quality of subsequent work.