Shoe dryer made from scrap materials

Flexible dryer

There is another amazing device for drying shoes that you can make with your own hands. The main element will be a flexible corrugated pipe and a fan. To manufacture the device, you must purchase from a specialized store: a 220/12V power supply and a connector for it, a plastic distribution box for outdoor use, a rotating cooler and a one-meter long corrugated pipe.

First you need to remove the rubber plugs in the junction box.
Next, you need to divide the corrugation in half and insert it into the hole that was formed after removing the plugs.
You need to make a hole at the bottom of the box, place the cooler there and secure everything with self-tapping screws. The air flow will be supplied into the corrugated pipes.
If there is a gap anywhere, it must be eliminated. This will allow the airflow to move in the desired direction.

The flexible dryer is ready for use. It not only allows you to return your boots to their original appearance, but also preserves their quality properties, as it dries from the inside. It is very simple to use; both ends of the corrugated pipe are inserted into a pair of shoes, after which the device turns on. In order for a homemade device to cope with its task, it requires at least five hours. Therefore, the boots are completely dried overnight. If you only need to lightly dry or ventilate, then it can handle this in a couple of hours.

What is especially important is that no overheating occurs in the boots, and an unpleasant odor will never appear there. If everything is done correctly, the device will last for many years.

Drying methods

In practice, there are mainly the following options for obtaining dried vegetables and fruits.

Natural solar energy is used. There is a strong dependence on weather conditions. The process is quite long.
Drying in the oven reduces the finishing time. True, the quality of the products becomes worse due to the loss of aroma. Air exchange is ensured by simply opening the oven door.
Drying using electricity does not have the disadvantages of the above methods. The electric dryer is adjusted to a temperature that maximizes the drying quality of a particular product. The built-in fan creates the necessary air circulation.

An electric dryer for vegetables and fruits grown at your dacha and made with your own hands is the best equipment option to provide yourself with vitamins for the winter.

How to properly assemble a dryer

The first step is to accurately determine the main dimensions of the structure (its height, width, depth), as well as the number of shelves and the distance between them. When deciding on all this, you should focus, first of all, on the total number of shoes in the house. After this, you should select the required number of pipe sections

In the process of cutting them, it is important to ensure that all sizes match exactly - this is the key not only to beauty, but also to the tightness and strength of the future structure

Once everything is ready, you can proceed to the most important step - assembling the bottom shelf, which will be the base. After soldering it, vertical posts should be installed, having previously installed tees with Mayevsky taps for them (they are necessary in order to periodically bleed air that will accumulate in the pipes).

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Next, you should make the remaining shelves for the dryer according to this scheme.

How does an electric dryer work?

Fresh vegetables and fruits contain a large amount of water. This moisture is precisely the source of the formation of mold and bacteria. A working electrical device heats the air to a certain temperature, which penetrates the fruit to a measured depth. Excess moisture evaporates, leaving the required minimum amount, which creates conditions for long-term preservation of vitamins.

In addition to the electrical installation, the design includes a housing with shelves on which vegetables and fruits intended for drying are located. For the installation to operate efficiently, it is important to ensure good air circulation inside the housing. Heated air usually exits through a hole in the top cover of the housing (there is an electric heating element at the bottom). Air exchange can be natural, or it can be forced due to fan energy.

Now

The main module of a compact shoe rack is a cabinet for storing out-of-season shoes (item 1 in the photo) with compartments for shoes without high tops and with tops/tops. The first ones are usually made 3 (spring, summer, autumn), and one high, but those living outside the city need 4 low and 2 high compartments; “extra” for placing work shoes. They will not hurt in the city, for children's shoes.

A shoe rack in the hallway is complemented, if there is enough space, with a bench or banquette for ease of putting on/taking off shoes. It is advisable to make openwork shelves under the seat for drying shoes (item 2), but in general it is better to dry shoes, especially for country residents, in a separate dryer, see below.

If there is very little space, you can get by with a pouf instead of a bench. A single owner can fit shoes out of season under his seat (item 3), but the conditions for storing them in this case are not entirely favorable. It is better to keep shoe care accessories in a pouf (see the drawing on the right), and place the supply of shoes in a separate organizer, see below. If the now unnecessary shoes are still in the pouffe, its drawer for ventilation should be equipped with holes in the bottom, and vents should be cut out under the seat.

The width of the pouffe seat and a regular bench is approx. 400 mm. In a narrow hallway with them there is less room for passage than ergonomics require, and even a hanger with clothes is right there. Therefore, the so-called petal shoe racks (item 4); shoes are stored in them in a vertical position on the shelves of folding trays, reinforced between the sector rotary sidewalls - petals. It is possible to make a petal-type shoe rack with a width of 250-260 mm: sitting down is enough, and in the hallway 1.25 m wide there is a passage of approx. 1 m, which is acceptable. In addition, the petal shoe rack provides good ventilation of the contents both with closed and open trays. And if you fold down the tray, the shoes dry in it better than on the shelves under the bench.

Due to their compactness and large capacity, petal shoe racks are often combined into monoblocks with other pieces of furniture for the hallway. A common option is a bedside table in the hallway with a shoe rack, pos. 5. With dimensions in plan (600-800) x (250-270) mm, it can accommodate the everyday shoes of a small family. If there is enough space (approx. 1.1 x 0.4 m in plan), the monoblock is supplemented with a seat (item 6).

If there is an unoccupied corner or niche in the hallway (which is not uncommon in old houses), then it is convenient to store shoes here in a carousel shoe rack, pos. 7. Dividing the contents into 4 seasons in the carousel shoe rack is achieved in the most natural way. To store winter shoes (boots, ankle boots), the shelves are partitioned asymmetrically, see fig. on right.

Scheme

Let's draw a new temperature stabilization control scheme:

A 230 V network is connected to the “LINE” connector, a fan is connected to the “FAN” connector, and a heater is connected to the “HEATER” connector. Connecting the sensor, display and encoder:

We will display information on a cheap, popular and easy-to-use LCD display 1602 (two lines of 16 characters each). A version with an additional I2C module was taken, which allows you to significantly reduce the number of connection lines.

An encoder is used for control. I really like this type of controller, I find it extremely convenient and suitable for many use cases. It would be possible to simply make a couple of buttons, but adding an encoder is more promising if you suddenly want to somehow expand the functionality.

Separately, it is worth noting that the encoder is connected according to a rather interesting, in my opinion, circuit of voltage dividers on resistors R1~R4. This allows you to read information from it using just one controller input. However, this scheme also has a significant drawback - it completely lacks hardware contact bounce suppression. It needs to be implemented programmatically in the firmware. This isn't too difficult, but it's not always practical because it requires adding blocking and delays. In my case, this is quite acceptable, since no control of the dryer during its operation is provided or required.

We use DS18B20 as a temperature sensor. At first I wanted to use AM2302, better known as DHT22. It is very convenient in that it also provides data on air humidity, which is very important for a dryer. However, having assembled and tested the circuit on a prototype, it turned out that this sensor has simply colossal inertia. Not only can the readings from it be read with a frequency of no more than 0.5 Hz, but they also change extremely slowly in both directions (increase/decrease). The excess of the set temperature during warm-up reached 35℃, giving even a leisurely analog thermostat a head start. Therefore, in the final version of the circuit, it is DS18B20 that is used, which has much greater sensitivity and lower thermal inertia.

To control the heater, a KSD205AC3 solid-state relay with a rated switching current of 5 A is used. The current value is taken with a large margin, the heater consumes no more than 1.2 A. Therefore, the relay does not heat up at all during operation. It would be possible to make PWM regulation, but preliminary tests on a prototype showed that the relay can easily maintain the temperature with an accuracy of ±2℃.

Power is provided by MeanWell IRM-01-5 (5 V 200 mA). All electronics as a whole consume 35~60 mA, so it is enough with a large margin.

A “beeper” with a built-in generator has also been added to the circuit to notify about various events (the dryer has turned on, drying has finished, an error has occurred).

How to choose a place to dry clothes

There are a lot of options for choosing a place to dry your clothes. First of all, you need to start from the presence of free space on the site where children will not play, light a fire or cook food. And it shouldn't be a street with car exhaust fumes.

The drying area must be well ventilated.

Drying should be well ventilated. Ideally, avoid direct sunlight to prevent colors from fading while drying. A cool, shady, well-ventilated place would be an ideal choice for hanging washed clothes.

There should be no fires or exhaust fumes nearby.

Estimate in advance how much free space you will need for drying clothes if a strong wind blows. The edges of the fabric should not hit fences, trees, walls or other foreign objects in bad weather.

Children should not play in the area where laundry is dried.

What do we need for the plane?

All components are required, if one of the components is missing, your plane will not fly, and as for the weight of the aircraft, it should be no heavier than 700 grams, so none of the components should be replaced with another, since the ones listed below are fully tested and give a very light weight.

Set of inexpensive HobbyKing Donkey S3007-1100kv motor and regulator (thrust about 920 grams);
Battery Turnigy 2200mAh 3S 20C Lipo Pack (enough for 20 minutes of flight);
Receiver transmitter Hobby King 2.4Ghz 6Ch V2 (range of about 1 kilometer, provided that there is no interference nearby);
4 servos (designed to control flaps, etc.);
Propeller 9×5;
Ceiling tiles (foam plastic).

Below you will see what the components look like...

In general, all this will cost you 3,000 rubles. A motor with a regulator costs about 600 rubles, a receiver-transmitter costs about 1,400 rubles, a propeller costs 100 rubles, servos cost 89 rubles each, and a battery costs no more than 600 rubles, although it all depends on which store you order all this from.

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I would recommend purchasing these components from the online store parkflyer.ru as they have the lowest prices. As for the ceilings, they cost 5 rubles each and can be found in any hardware store.

Drying and drying chamber Izhitsa-SV

…intended for:

Izhitsa-SV is a cabinet made of galvanized metal, in which a cage with products hung on it is placed. Thanks to the action of the fan and heating element, the product quickly loses moisture and acquires the necessary properties of a dried or dried product.

To create a high-quality dried product, Izhitsa-SV is equipped with a timer that allows you to set step drying: 30 minutes. fan running, 30 min. - does not work. During this time, the moisture in the product is redistributed, and no crust appears on the surface that would interfere with the further uniform drying process. The product is evenly dried and of excellent quality.

The unit is equipped with a reliable axial fan with a power of 0.5 kW, creating a dense air flow.

To dry the air flow, a heating element with a power of 1.5 kW is used. The installation has the ability to turn off the heating element, or turn on the heating element at half the power - 0.75 kW.

The control unit is equipped with a timer that allows you to automatically turn off the fan when the specified time for drying or drying the fish has passed.

For hanging fish, standard cages and skewers are used for the Izhitsa-1200 and Izhitsa-GK installations for large and small fish. The cage and skewers are not included in the delivery package of the drying-drying chamber.

Requirements for the room for drying and drying fish:

How to make an electric shoe dryer

The easiest way to dry your shoes in the slush is to put them on a radiator. However, it is not always possible to do this, since the heating season lasts from November to April. And during the unheated period, the shoes do not dry out.

A homemade electric dryer made from a shoe rack, a thermal cable and a sheet of metal looks aesthetically pleasing and does the job of drying.

The size is measured according to the size of the bottom shelf and a metal plate is cut out. The basis for drying is metal 0.8 mm thick
A self-regulating heating cable with a power of 30 W/m, reaching a temperature of 85 0 C is cut into pieces. The cable regulates its temperature along all sections of the length
Remove the top sheath of the wire and connect the three sections into a network in parallel. Cable contacts are protected with electrical tape
To increase heat transfer, the cable is attached to a sheet of metal using aluminum tape. Several layers of adhesive tape securely fasten the wires and increase thermal conductivity
The lower part is covered with a reflector, and the upper part is painted black. The finished dryer is placed on a shelf and plugged in.

Temperature measurements showed that the shoe dryer heats up not only on the lower, but also on the upper tier.

From the cooler

Make your own air dryer for shoes from coolers from a broken microwave oven according to the instructions:

The corrugated pipe for electrical wiring is divided into 2 parts. 2 holes are made in the junction box at the end sides. Junction box with rubber elastic plugs
The cooler is placed in the box so that air enters the pipes. The blades are trimmed if necessary
The gaps are filled with a rubber gasket. The bottom is glued with a vibration isolator. The cooler is attached to the base of the box with screws. Connect the wires and check the functionality of the dryer. A hole for the wire is cut in the rubber plugs

From small fans

A do-it-yourself electric ski shoe dryer is assembled from the following materials:

sewer drain 2 pieces of 25 cm each, with a cross section of 5 cm;
2 plugs, diameter 5cm;
power unit;
2 fans from an old computer;
2 tubular resistors OPEV-30, resistance 24 Ohms;
2 grilles for the fan;
1 m of double stranded wire PEV 0.75;
electrical tape, soldering iron, knife, shrink tape.

A hole is soldered into the plastic plug. Install the grate. The fans are attached to plastic plugs. The wires are routed out. Mark the fan with a marker and use a soldering iron to melt a hole for fastening
The wire is bent and placed in a resistor. With the bare wires down, install the part to the plastic plug with the fan. The wires are soldered. Bent wire prevents resistors from moving within 25cm sections
The network cable is brought out and connected to the power supply in parallel. The workpieces are put into pieces and tested. The wire is insulated. The red “+” wire is attached to the power supply

When the device was turned on, the air temperature in the room increased by 8 0 C.

From thermostatic cable

Cut pieces of the thermostatic cable 35 cm long. Prepare the electrical cord, terminal block and thermal cable
Electrical tape is used to insulate the cable on one side. The wires on the second side are exposed. The sheath is removed and the veins are freed
Attach the terminal block. All wires are carefully insulated
The segments are bent into a loop and soldered to the electrical cord. The joints are carefully sealed with heat shrink tape.

The finished shoe dryer is connected to a 220V power supply.

The video shows instructions for assembling an electric shoe dryer with your own hands:

From plastic pipes

For production you will need:

hair dryer;
plastic pipes;
corners for PVC connection;
hacksaw;
soldering iron for PVC products;
clamps.

Assembly instructions:

Prepare pipe sections 20 cm long. At a distance of 2-3 cm from the ends, a hole is made for air to escape. Elements are cut at an angle of 40 0
The corners are attached to PVC. Corner fasteners are soldered to pipe sections
A tee is attached to the corners. Using a soldering iron, connect the tee and corners
A hairdryer is attached to the hole using clamps and a pipe. Testing the device

Boards

We distribute the boards. There are two of them - control and power part with power supply:

Both boards are single-sided. The only track on the second side (blue) is the “parasitic” track of the Arduino itself, which is used to avoid making its own jumper. I don’t show the whole process of making boards, everything is standard and according to the classics: laser printer, glossy paper, laminator, etching in peroxide with citric acid. Assembled boards:

Of course, there were some problems and mistakes. The holes in the control board are arranged in such a way that it stands “second floor” on the display board. However, for unknown reasons, the dimensions in EasyEDA and in the real world differed by several millimeters. And this became clear, according to the law of meanness, only when trying to put it all together. I had to work with a file...

We also produce a set of cables:

An MGTFE 0.2 mm mounting wire is connected to the temperature sensor and power supply. Not so much for protection against interference, it’s just that my usual AWG 24 mounting wires cannot be crimped into the connector contacts because their (wires’) silicone insulation is too thick.

How to make a heating dryer

This method is considered the most effective.

But it requires a little more time to manufacture compared to the previous version.

Materials and tools

For production we will need the following.

Polypropylene pipes.
Polypropylene fittings.
2 ball valves.
7 steel pipes 1 m long.

We also need the following tools.

Pipe cutter
Soldering iron for pipes.

Manufacturing process

Solder a small piece of polypropylene pipe into the heating system, then install the tap and turn it off.
Then run the pipe to the location of the future dryer.
In the same way, you need to do it in the heating area after 2 m. Solder a piece of pipe through the fitting, and then install a closed tap. After this, a pipeline is created to the intended location of the dryer.
Now we need to create the outline itself, which will dry the shoes. To do this you need to use polypropylene fittings. It is necessary to solder steel pipes into them. You need to create a closed loop. The elements must be parallel to each other. The distance between them should be approximately 5 cm.
When the heated circuit is created, it will be possible to solder it with the pipes that we connected to the heating system.

A huge advantage of this dryer is that it can be turned off and on as needed.

To do this, we installed taps.

Therefore, you need to install a wooden grate or dense synthetic material on the pipes. In this case, there will be no close contact and no damage will be caused to the boots.

Firmware

The firmware turned out to be quite long, but simple and linear.
I tried to comment on all the most unobvious places. If you have any questions and/or suggestions, please leave a comment. Expand a very long listing of 552 lines #include #include #include // Approximate time for encoder contact bounce, ms. #define ENCODER_JITTER (5) // Timeout for waiting for the next event from the encoder, ms. #define ENCODER_TIMEOUT (350) // Parameters for the duration of Morse code signals, ms. >:3 #define DOT_LEN (500) #define DASH_LEN (3 * DOT_LEN) #define SIGN_DELAY (DOT_LEN) #define LETTER_DELAY (3 * DOT_LEN) #define REPEAT_DELAY (7 * DOT_LEN) // Macro for easy recording of hours. #define HOURS(value) (value * 3600UL) // Temperature sensor pin. #define SENSOR_PIN (2) // The beeper pin. #define BEEPER_PIN (11) // Solid state relay pin for heater control. #define HEATER_PIN (12) // Pin signals from the encoder. #define ENCODER_PIN (A0) // Action performed by the encoder. enum EncoderAction { NoAction, // Inaction. ActionNext, // Rotation in one direction. ActionPrev, // Rotate in the other direction. ActionConfirm, // Pressing a button. }; // Stage (state) of drying. enum HeatingStage { Idle, // Off (inaction). PreHeating, // Warming up. Working, // Temperature stabilization. }; // Description of plastic settings. typedef struct { const char *const name; // Name. const uint8_t temp; // Drying temperature. const unsigned long time_sec; // Drying time, s. } Filament; // Table with settings for different types of plastic. const Filament filaments[] = { { .name = "PLA", .temp = 45, .time_sec = HOURS(6), }, { .name = "ABS", .temp = 60, .time_sec = HOURS(4) , }, { .name = "PETG", .temp = 65, .time_sec = HOURS(4), }, { .name = "TPU", .temp = 50, .time_sec = HOURS(8), }, { .name = "Nylon", .temp = 70, .time_sec = HOURS(12), }, }; // Minimum index of the table with plastic settings. #define MIN_IDX (0) // Maximum index of the table with plastic settings. #define MAX_IDX ((sizeof(filaments) / sizeof(filaments[0])) - 1) // Configuring the 1-wire bus and DS18B20 temperature sensor. OneWire ow_bus(SENSOR_PIN); DallasTemperature sensor(&ow_bus); // Setting up the LCD display 1602. LiquidCrystal_I2C screen(0x27, 16, 2); // Selected plastic. volatile const Filament *filament = NULL; // Flag indicating that it is time to update the values on the display. volatile bool refresh_screen = false; // Counter of seconds that have passed since the start of the current stage. volatile unsigned long seconds = 0; // Flag indicating whether heating is currently on or off. // Displayed as 'H'. volatile bool heater_is_on = false; // Flag indicating that there is an event from the encoder. volatile bool event_on_encoder = false; // Current drying stage. volatile HeatingStage heating_stage = Idle; // Timer interrupt handler. Fires 1 time per second. ISR(TIMER1_COMPA_vect) { seconds++; refresh_screen = true; } // Interrupt handler from the encoder pin. // Triggered by a change in voltage // in any direction (decrease/increase). ISR(PCINT1_vect) { event_on_encoder = true; } // Reset the timer. void reset_timer(void) { // During the reset, we disable interrupts // so that the counter value does not change. noInterrupts(); seconds = 0; refresh_screen = false; interrupts(); } // Turn on heating. void turn_on(void) { digitalWrite(HEATER_PIN, HIGH); heater_is_on = true; } // Turn off heating. void turn_off(void) { digitalWrite(HEATER_PIN, LOW); heater_is_on = false; } // Squeaking with a squeaker. void beep(uint16_t duration) { digitalWrite(BEEPER_PIN, HIGH); delay(duration); digitalWrite(BEEPER_PIN, LOW); } // Clear the display completely. void clear_screen(void) { screen.clear(); screen.home(); } // Error handler. // Receives an error message as an argument. // Plays the 'SOS' signal with a squeaker in Morse code. void panic(const char *const reason) { turn_off(); clear_screen(); screen.setCursor(0, 0); screen.print("PANIC! Reason:"); screen.setCursor(0, 1); screen.print(reason); for (;;) { // 'S': … beep(DOT_LEN); delay(SIGN_DELAY); beep(DOT_LEN); delay(SIGN_DELAY); beep(DOT_LEN); delay(LETTER_DELAY); // 'O': — beep(DASH_LEN); delay(SIGN_DELAY); beep(DASH_LEN); delay(SIGN_DELAY); beep(DASH_LEN); delay(LETTER_DELAY); // 'S': … beep(DOT_LEN); delay(SIGN_DELAY); beep(DOT_LEN); delay(SIGN_DELAY); beep(DOT_LEN); delay(LETTER_DELAY); delay(REPEAT_DELAY); } } // Obtaining the current temperature from the temperature sensor. uint8_t query_sensor(void) { sensor.requestTemperatures(); const float value = sensor.getTempCByIndex(0); if (value == DEVICE_DISCONNECTED_C) panic("Temp NaN."); const uint8_t temp = ((unsigned int) value) & 0xFF; if (temp <= 1) panic("Frozen."); if (temp >= 120) panic("Burned."); return temp; } // Shows the temperature and drying time // of the selected plastic on the display. void present_filament(void) { screen.setCursor(0, 0); screen.print(filament->name); screen.print(" ? "); screen.setCursor(0, 1); screen.print(filament->time_sec / 3600); screen.print(" hours at "); screen.print(filament->temp); screen.print("* "); } // Read the encoder action. // Runs until it detects an action, // ignoring random triggers. // Values are adjusted empirically. // Current values are indicated for resistor values according to the diagram, // with resistor accuracy of 1%. EncoderAction read_action(void) { int value = 0; for (;;) { value = analogRead(ENCODER_PIN); if (value == 0) return NoAction; if (value > 840 && value < 850) return ActionPrev; if (value > 690 && value < 705) return ActionNext; if (value > 560 && value < 610) return ActionConfirm; } } // Waits for any action from the encoder and returns it. EncoderAction wait_for_action(void) { // Wait for some action to occur on the encoder. while (!event_on_encoder) delay(1); const EncoderAction action = read_action(); // If the encoder is inactive, then exit immediately. if (action == NoAction) return NoAction; unsigned long time_diff = 0; unsigned long time_begin = millis(); /* Algorithm for processing encoder rotation and contact bounce suppression. Based on the mechanics of the encoder. When rotating in any direction, one contact closes first, then while it is closed, the other contact closes. Due to the fact that the circuit implements a voltage divider using resistors, these two contact closures give different voltage values. And here we receive two events: first, that one contact has closed, then that the second has closed. When rotating in one direction (action == ActionPrev), we wait for the next action to arrive (ActionNext). However, there is a race! If, due to contact bounce or brakes in the ADC, the voltage drops to zero before the signal edge from the second contact, then NoAction will occur. Therefore, we limit the wait to a timeout. When rotating in the other direction, everything is exactly the same, only the order of closing the contacts is reversed. */ if (action == ActionPrev) { for (;;) { if (read_action() == ActionNext) break; delay(1); if (millis() - time_begin > ENCODER_TIMEOUT) break; } } if (action == ActionNext) { for (;;) { if (read_action() == ActionPrev) break; delay(1); if (millis() - time_begin > ENCODER_TIMEOUT) break; } } /* When both contacts have worked during rotation, the voltage returns to zero (NoAction action). We are waiting for this. If you pressed the button, then wait until it is released. */ while (read_action() != NoAction) delay(1); /* If the button was pressed, then we sleep within the encoder error (approximate time during which the contacts rattle). If the encoder was turned, then we sleep twice as long as the duration of the pulse, which began with the closure of one contact and ended with the opening of any of the contacts. This guarantees with a fairly high probability that the contacts have worked and provides protection against false alarms when the encoder rotates too quickly. */ if (action == ActionConfirm) time_diff = 0; else time_diff = millis() — time_begin; delay(time_diff * 2 + ENCODER_JITTER); // Reset the flag indicating that events were received from the encoder. // This is necessary to suppress contact bounce; there could be many events // but we have already processed one. The rest will be processed // later. noInterrupts(); event_on_encoder = false; interrupts(); return action; } // Cycle of displaying the plastic selection menu. void choose_filament(void) { clear_screen(); size_t cur_idx = MIN_IDX; filament = &(filaments[cur_idx]); present_filament(); for (;;) { EncoderAction action = wait_for_action(); if (action == ActionConfirm) return; if (action == ActionNext) { // If we reach the end of the table, go to its beginning. if (cur_idx == MAX_IDX) cur_idx = 0; else cur_idx++; } if (action == ActionPrev) { // If we get to the beginning of the table, go to its beginning. if (cur_idx == MIN_IDX) cur_idx = MAX_IDX; else cur_idx—; } filament = &(filaments[cur_idx]); present_filament(); } } // Turn on/off the heater and switch the drying stage. void set_heater_state(const uint8_t temp) { if (filament == NULL) panic("Heater state."); if (temp > filament->temp) { turn_off(); // If the dryer was in the warm-up state, then from the first time the heater is turned off // the main operating mode of drying is turned on. Reset // the time counter to start the countdown. // If the dryer was in a state of inactivity, but the temperature was already higher // than necessary, it means that they started drying the plastic without waiting for it to cool down. // Also switch to the main mode. if (heating_stage == Idle || heating_stage == PreHeating) { heating_stage = Working; reset_timer(); } } else { turn_on(); if (heating_stage == Idle) { // If the dryer was idle, then the first time the heater is turned on // we start warming up. We reset the time counter to show how long // the warm-up has been going on. heating_stage = PreHeating; reset_timer(); } } } // Update the data on the display. void update_screen(const uint8_t temp) { screen.setCursor(0, 0); screen.print(filament->name); screen.print(" "); screen.print(filament->temp); screen.print(" / "); screen.print(temp); screen.print("* "); // If the heater is on, draw the letter 'H' at the end of the first line. if (heater_is_on) screen.print("H"); // Add a few spaces to the end to ensure that the entire line // is drawn correctly and there are no “ghosts” left from the previous // characters if the previous line was shorter in length. screen.print(" "); screen.setCursor(0, 1); unsigned long time_val = 0; // If the dryer is in the drying stage, display // how much time is left until the end. if (heating_stage == Working) { screen.print("ETA "); time_val = filament->time_sec — seconds; const uint8_t hours = (time_val / 3600) & 0xFF; if (hours < 10) screen.print("0"); screen.print(hours); screen.print(":"); } else { // If the dryer is in the warm-up state, then // show how much time has passed since it // started. screen.print("Preheating "); time_val = seconds; // If within an hour you still haven’t managed to warm up the dryer // to the set temperature, then something is definitely going wrong. if (time_val >= 3600) panic("Preheating."); } const uint8_t mins = ((time_val % 3600) / 60) & 0xFF; if (mins < 10) screen.print("0"); screen.print(mins); screen.print(":"); const uint8_t secs = (time_val % 60) & 0xFF; if (secs < 10) screen.print(“0″); screen.print(secs); screen.print(" "); } void setup() { // Set up pins for output. pinMode(BEEPER_PIN, OUTPUT); pinMode(HEATER_PIN, OUTPUT); // Turn off the heater immediately. turn_off(); // Set up the screen, display a greeting and beep. screen.init(); screen.backlight(); clear_screen(); screen.print("Hello world!"); beep(250); // Set up the temperature sensor. sensor.begin(); // Set up the timer interrupt handler. // For more details, see: https://habr.com/ru/post/453276/ noInterrupts(); TCCR1A = 0; TCCR1B = 0; OCR1A = 15624; TCCR1B |= (1 << WGM12); TCCR1B |= (1 << CS10); TCCR1B |= (1 << CS12); TIMSK1 |= (1 << OCIE1A); interrupts(); // Set up interrupts from the pin where the encoder is connected. // For more details, see: // https://tsibrov.blogspot.com/2019/06/arduino-interrupts-part2.html PCICR |= (1 << PCIE1); PCMSK1 |= (1 << PC0); } void loop() { uint8_t temp = 0; // If the plastic is not yet selected, show the selection menu. // Then we start warming up. if (filament == NULL) { turn_off(); choose_filament(); clear_screen(); reset_timer(); heating_stage = Idle; refresh_screen = true; } // If drying is in progress and the time has come to an end, we show a message, // beep, wait for the encoder button to be pressed and again show // the plastic selection menu. if (heating_stage == Working && seconds > filament->time_sec) { turn_off(); clear_screen(); screen.setCursor(0, 0); screen.print("Finished!"); beep(2000); delay(1000); beep(2000); delay(1000); beep(2000); screen.setCursor(0, 1); screen.print("Press any key..."); while (wait_for_action() != ActionConfirm) ; filament = NULL; return; } temp = query_sensor(); set_heater_state(temp); if (refresh_screen) { refresh_screen = false; update_screen(temp); } }

The general algorithm is as follows. After turning on the dryer, we suggest choosing plastic from a pre-prepared list. By rotating the encoder we find the one we need and confirm the selection by pressing the encoder button. Preheating to the set temperature is activated. When the temperature is reached, the countdown starts and its maintenance begins by periodically turning on the heating. When the time is up, the buzzer sounds and the dryer waits for the encoder button to be pressed. After this, control returns again to the choice of plastic.

Clothes dryer - step by step instructions

You can choose the shape of the dryer at will

Let's look at how to make a portable clothes dryer from plastic pipes with your own hands. The appearance of the manufactured dryer resembles an easel. To make it you will need:

pieces of plastic pipe of different lengths;
two connecting corners;
several tees (their number is exactly twice the number of drying jumpers);
two clamps for fastening pipes.

The dryer consists of two rectangular parts of the same length but different widths. The width of the second rectangle should be 10 cm smaller. The width of the product itself should be determined to your taste based on conditions such as the amount of laundry and the stability of the dryer. For an example of a simple clothes dryer on a radiator, see this video:

The clothes dryer is ready. When drying clothes, it is installed in the shape of the letter “l”, and clothes are hung on the crossbars. It is very convenient in the household. When it rains, it can be quickly moved under a canopy. For the secrets of quick and smooth fitting of tubes, watch this video:

As you can see, making a dryer from plastic pipes is very easy, quick and interesting. Thanks to the positive characteristics of this material, such a product will last quite a long time, since the plastic is not susceptible to corrosion and does not require periodic repairs.

Do not be upset if you made a mistake in the calculations when planning the life support systems of your home, for example, when arranging water supply or heating. Remains of pipes (even the smallest scraps) and fittings that were not used when installing pipelines can become the basis for some unusual interior item. In this article we will talk about some interesting solutions and share interesting ideas.

Preface

Having experienced considerable disappointment with the results of the modification of the eSun eBOX dryer, I was puzzled by the search for a more suitable unit for this, albeit not so convenient in terms of storing coils. Even before purchasing eBOX, I bought a cheap Olto HD-20 vegetable dryer. I cut out the intermediate grates and screwed a convenient handle to the lid. The device turned out to be quite good overall and performed its task quite well.

However, it has some fatal flaws. Firstly, purely conditional temperature stability. It is adjusted with a classic bimetallic thermostat (hereinafter simply “thermostat”). An error of two to three tens of degrees for such a design is quite normal. It will be suitable for drying vegetables, but absolutely unacceptable for plastic. If PETG feels great at a temperature of 60℃, then PLA can easily “float”. Secondly, setting the temperature with a knob is also very approximate; each time you have to calibrate it using an external thermometer. Thirdly, there is no timer and you need to somehow time the drying time.

Of course, you could just throw out this dryer and go buy another one, with digital controls and a timer. It's not that much more expensive. However, it also has a significant drawback, already in terms of usability. There are plastic drying temperature/time charts like this. And each time remembering it and entering the values again is frankly lazy.

In general, the motto “our hands are not for boredom!” came to mind at just the right time. The dryer is already there, you just need to slightly modify it with a file. Let's get started!

What you should pay attention to

To make such a structure, it is best to use polypropylene or metal-plastic pipes that have the ability to withstand pressure of about 10-15 bar and temperature of almost 100 degrees. PVC pipes are not suitable for this purpose, as they soften very quickly, as a result of which they lose their shape.

If you want to increase the functionality of such a dryer, you can equip it with mats or trays made of rubberized material - dirt falling from shoes, as well as running water, will accumulate in them.

The top shelf can be equipped as a dryer for gloves, socks, hats and other small accessories - for this it is recommended to install a grid made of plastic on the surface.

It is recommended to equip such a drying shelf with an additional shut-off valve - it can be used if the structure suddenly loses its tightness. Such a valve should be placed on the shut-off pipe.

Once you try your abilities in installing PVC water pipes, you will understand that working with the material and the way of connecting plastic elements opens up a wide range of creative possibilities. From plastic pieces and various elements for connecting them, you can make almost anything that has a frame base, a piece of furniture, or a useful device for a summer house. It could be a chair, armchair, stand, table, bed. Do-it-yourself shelves made of PVC pipes are perhaps included in a separate group, since it presents products that are varied in purpose, size and appearance.

Making a homemade fish dryer with a fan

Our dryer will be almost no different from a simple collapsible dryer. You can start making a regular dryer from wooden slats, and then integrate a fan into it, which will help the fish or meat dry out faster. You are very lucky if you have an old dryer that is missing this very fan. You can fix this situation in 5 minutes, but we will tell you how to make a fish dryer with your own hands.

STEP 1: preparing materials . The simplest dryer design will be a rectangular cabinet with dimensions of 1500 x 500 mm and a height of 500 mm. To make it, we will need small wooden planks and a special fine mesh, which will protect the fish from attacks by insects and animals. The design will be quite small, so all connections will be permanent. We fasten all the planks using ordinary wood screws and mounting angles.

STEP 2: make the frame . To make the frame of a fish dryer with a fan, you need to prepare wooden planks. We will need:

4 strips 1500 mm.
10 strips 500 mm.
Self-tapping screws.
Metal corners.
Screwdriver.

As mentioned earlier, the dimensions of the frame are 1500 x 500 x 500 mm. We assemble a frame from wooden planks. First we make the main skeleton, and then we attach additional strips to increase the rigidity of the structure of the fish dryer with our own hands. The top of the dryer must open and close to allow access to the fish. Therefore, we attach it to the simplest curtains. To close the gap between the cover and the frame, you need to stick a seal around the entire perimeter. To prevent the top cover from opening on its own, two hooks must be installed on the sides of the structure.

Dryer frame Finished dryer frame

Cover fastening

Locks on the lid

STEP 4: frame processing . To give a beautiful appearance and protect the wooden frame of the dryer from external factors. We treat the frame with stain. After the first layer has dried, you can process the frame with a sander to remove various surface roughness and unevenness. Next, apply one more, final layer. We got a cherry-colored frame.

First layer of stain Sanding the frame Second layer of stain

STEP 4: Grid . At this stage of creating the dryer, you need to select and cut suitable pieces of mesh. When choosing a mesh for the dryer, it is worth considering the diameter of the hole. It is advisable to take the smallest one. If you need to make a dryer quickly, then ordinary gauze will do, but it is worth considering that the performance characteristics of gauze are very poor compared to mesh. And so, we should get two pieces of mesh measuring 500 x 500 mm, and four pieces measuring 1500 x 500 mm. We also cover the lower part of the dryer for meat and fish with a fine mesh.

STEP 5: Attaching the mesh . Now we need to secure the mesh to the frame of the dryer as well as possible to avoid the possible penetration of insects inside. To do this without any problems, we used wooden window beads. We cut it to size and secured the mesh around the perimeter. To do this you need to use a 25 mm nail. But, you can make it easier and secure the mesh to the frame using a stapler.

Frame with mesh

Dryer mounting hooks

At this stage of our step-by-step instructions on how to make a fish dryer, we have an ordinary portable design. You need to make small hooks inside so that there is somewhere to attach the wire with the fish. Next, we have to introduce a small but very efficient fan into this design to improve dehydration in the product. Don't worry, you won't need to redo anything, you just need to make some modifications.

Shelf styles

Like any other piece of furniture, the shelf must match the chosen interior style of the room. For high-tech and loft, simple models made of metal and pipes are suitable. This option will look especially colorful against the backdrop of the “branded” brickwork in the hallway. For a group of rustic styles headed by Provence, open-type wooden shoe racks are suitable. The surface of the product is covered with discreet paint and artificially aged. This option will look great in combination with wicker boxes-baskets, which are placed on the upper tiers. For country music, you can choose a model from boxes that are placed on top of each other, after which the entire structure is secured with glue. For minimalism, original options are used. For example, a product that can hardly be called a “shelf” in the truest sense of the word: a row of vertical poles on a stand. Each one is “put on” a boot. For classic styles, luxurious closed models with carved doors are used. They also go well with elegant banquettes on twisted legs with a storage system located under the seat.

DIY bottle dryer.

I wonder what happened to you? The topic is relevant.
BeerZavodik From 09/10/14 to 01/31/15 brewed: 130 liters from extract and 210 liters from grain

Tell me, is there any point in drying after sterilization? Those. I plan to first disinfect, rinse under the groove and immediately sterilize over the spout of the kettle. Will this be enough or what?

To be honest, I did not disinfect or sterilize the bottles. This is just my personal experience, and it’s not really that great, everyone is based on their mistakes and it’s not worth taking it into account. I myself would like to know all the technology, how and what! I think that after disinfection and sterilization there will be no germs there, but it won’t hurt to dry the container. Do you have glass containers? I just pour it into plastic and that’s why I don’t think it’s worth sterilizing it. I bottle it mostly in new plastic containers, I haven’t even washed them, there were no defects. If I bottle it into a used one, I wash it with hot water, then rinse it with running filtered water, dry it and bottle it.

BeerZavodik From 09/10/14 to 01/31/15 brewed: 130 liters from extract and 210 liters from grain

How about drying bottles with your own hands? Anyone who has done it, please share your experience, if you don’t mind.

Here in Chelyaba we sell a dryer for 1200 rubles, the price suits me, but I don’t like it, the base is large in diameter and high, there is no room to put one in the kitchen. Of course, maybe I’m just being picky, but I want something more compact, so that it can be easily washed and stored, not like a small Christmas tree.

How about drying bottles with your own hands? Anyone who has done it, please share your experience, if you don’t mind.

That's the first thing that came to mind. Of course, we need to improve it, but we have to start somewhere.

Please tell me, why dry bottles?

I take it by the bottom and throw out the remaining water by centrifugal force, why dry it?

I take the pump and charge it with a disinfectant solution. I rinse the bottles with it and place them vertically on the table. By the time I get to the last (approximately fortieth) bottle, the first ones can already be rinsed. I rinse it with the nozzle on the tap and hang it on the MirBir plastic dryer. It turns out with the throat down. By the time I hung the last one, all the water had already drained out of the first one. And because throat down, nothing hit. Next, I took off the first one, put it in a box, poured in dextrose, and covered it with a lid. and so on until the last one. The process is non-stop. There is minimal water and contamination inside the bottle. Convenient, IMHO.

The only thing is that the drying surface (except for the base) is also pre-immersed in a disinfection solution. Fortunately, it is collapsible. Still not sure if it's worth it? “Fangs” still go into the bottle.

Please tell me, why dry bottles?

You ask such global questions that, frankly, they are confusing. Don't worry about it. I will rephrase your question according to the topic. Why do you need a bottle dryer? I can only answer for myself. First of all, for me, this is convenience, after washing, you put clean bottles upside down to dry, the water flows into the pan and nothing gets inside, it is also convenient to transfer all the drying bottles from the sink to the table at once. Now I don’t have a dryer, after washing I put them on the table with the neck up, dust flies inside, the whole table is wet. Then I take each bottle and shake out the remaining water, and so on twice, and still everything doesn’t shake out. Plastic bottles are lightweight and it’s easy to sweep them onto the floor; I’ve had the entire battery fall off twice, you’re in a hurry. And to transfer them to another table you need to carefully, a maximum of two, depending on the availability of hands. In general, I was fed up with these hemorrhoids and I decided to do the drying.

Source

What types of designs are there?

An outdoor dryer must be massive and strong. Hanging laundry in a gusty wind creates a sail effect and can fly off the cord. For outdoor use, wall and ceiling models of stationary dryers, as well as homemade ones, are used.

Clothes on the dryer must be secured with clothespins.

Attach the fabric to the slats using wooden or plastic clothespins. They do not leave marks even on light-colored materials.

An outdoor dryer must be well secured.

Homemade

You can find a way out of any situation. Even if the need to hang up wet clothes finds you far from home, a homemade laundry dryer will come to the rescue. Basic models are created from improvised materials, pipes, wooden slats and even reels of thick cardboard. It is especially convenient if there are already pillars or piles built into the ground:

any structure driven into the ground in the shape of the letter “P” turns into an excellent assistant for drying things;
It is enough to stretch a few strong cords between the T-shaped crossbars so that you can dry any wet clothes.

Ready-made designs

Ready-made structures are divided into stationary and mobile. The first ones are massive and can withstand strong winds and any bad weather. The latter can be removed or folded as unnecessary. Mobile, transforming models are made of durable but lightweight materials that can be cleaned from dust and dirt.

Do-it-yourself dehydrator for meat and fish

A dryer for meat and fish can be easily made from a plastic container. For this you will need:

fan;
plastic container equipped with a lid;
steel rods with a cross section of 5 mm or studs with threads, washers and nuts;
pipe cut or coupling.

The entire process of making a dehydrator for drying fish, meat and drying other products from a plastic container is demonstrated in the video:

It’s easy to assemble a dehydrator for fish, meat, vegetables, fruits and other products from scrap materials: plywood, boxes, a refrigerator. Various working old fans are suitable for blowing. In each case, you will, of course, need to think over a way to secure them, but the economic costs will be reduced. In small installations, you can use a fan from a computer, having previously provided the required supply voltage. If you automate the dryer, then in terms of functionality it will be able to compete with factory analogues. When drying meat and fish, it is imperative to prevent flies from entering the interior of the installation so that they do not spoil the products.

Connecting components

Below in the picture you will see in what order you need to connect the components (the image shows third-party components since I have not yet received the ones we need).

You can find a drawing of the aircraft on the Internet. The drawing shows what dimensions each part of our aircraft should have and how to cut the ceilings correctly.

As a result, you will get a plane similar to the one shown in the picture below.

As soon as all the components indicated in the article arrive by mail, I will make the same plane and show it to you on my YouTube channel, so stay tuned for the news, or better yet, subscribe to updates on my website. The subscribe button is located on the left edge of the screen.

And don't forget to comment :-). Good luck.

Climate chamber for drying

More information for those who are choosing a dairy refrigerator for their family home...

Pavel Agapkin has the right refrigerator in all respects.

Many are confused by the small internal size of this refrigerator, and many are probably looking at wine cabinets with 48 liters or more inside.

Why you shouldn't buy wine cabinets.

Almost all wine cabinets are equipped with an electronic type of temperature control. Those. Use the buttons to set the desired temperature on the display and you’re done. If the electricity is temporarily turned off (this happens at substations and transformer booths), the temperature will reset to the base temperature, which is about 9 degrees C, and you need to set the temperature again manually. In electronic wine coolers, when the electricity is turned off or on, the fuses inside often burn (I don’t know why this is so). Repaired by simply replacing the fuse.

And you went to the dacha for 2-4 days.

There are models of wine cabinets with memory of the set temperature, but they are expensive. There are models of wine cabinets with mechanical temperature control. But there are only two positions, either for white wine (9-10 g) or for red (14-16 g).

Pavel Agapkin has a mechanical refrigerator. The temperature is set using a mechanical regulator. When the power is turned off and on, the refrigerator will continue to operate in the mode you set. And this is +.

Many wine cabinets have powder-coated metal interiors. As a result, salt-water = corrosion.

Pavel's refrigerator is lined with plastic inside.

In terms of money, a wine cabinet (48 liters) costs 15-20 thousand rubles. (without temperature setting memory).

In Emkolbaski 8 thousand with kopecks 40 liters (consumption 70 watts). It is more profitable to buy two of 40 liters each.

I don't advertise anything. These are my reasons.

Message modified: Psylaser, 08 February 2022 - 15:43.

Simple airplane made from a plastic bottle

You will need: plastic bottle, scissors, knife, colored cardboard, pencil, ruler.

Master Class

Draw 2 identical stripes for the wing on the cardboard, then cut them out.
Draw 3 small stripes for the tail, then cut them out.
Create a propeller: trace the cover onto the paper, then make a larger circle and draw the blades.
Cut out the propeller, place it on the neck of the bottle and close the lid.
Using a knife, make 3 cuts in the tail area and 2 cuts for the wings.
Insert 3 strips into the cuts to form the tail of the airplane.
Secure the airplane wings.

A simple airplane made from a plastic bottle is ready! I recommend watching this video!

Installation of a heated towel rail

Installation of the device is carried out in several stages:

water distribution for the heated towel rail is being prepared;
the device is installed.

Pipe preparation

Before installing the device in the chosen location, it is necessary to provide pipes to supply the heated towel rail with water. As mentioned earlier, water can be supplied:

from the apartment heating system;
from the hot water supply system.

To prevent supply pipes from spoiling the interior of the bathroom, they can be removed. How to hide pipes from a heated towel rail? There are two ways:

lay the pipes in the wall, in a niche specially prepared for them, formed by gating;

Laying pipes inside the wall

cover the pipes with a plasterboard structure. To do this, it is necessary to build a special frame from metal profiles, which will serve as the basis for the future box.

Special box for hiding pipes

Both when gating and when arranging the box, the final finishing of the room is done with the selected material.

Electric dryers

Electric dryers are special devices aimed at home use or use in the service sector.

They come in several types, which differ in a number of parameters:

appearance;
principle of operation;
cost, etc.

Principles for choosing an electric dryer:

Quality of material.
No damage to the housing or power cord.
The size of the working part allows it to be easily placed inside any pair of shoes.
The longer the cord, the more convenient it will be to use the device.
It is advisable that the heating time be about a quarter of an hour. A longer heating period will require more time to dry the steam.
The heating temperature should be up to +50 or +60°C. A higher heating rate is not desirable, as it can lead to damage to shoes, and low heating is ineffective.

Professional industrial shoe dryers are designed for use in laundries. And they are extremely rarely used at home.

They are quite bulky, have a high cost, and consume a lot of electricity. For children's shoes, separate models designed for small sizes are available.

Models with flexible heating loops or two blocks

The cheapest option is simple electric dryers. Many are a flexible, insulated loop that fits comfortably inside your shoe.

They are universal, suitable for drying a wide variety of models, making this process as soft as possible - using heat. There are also options for more complex construction and design that have a similar operating principle.

The advantages of this choice:

simplicity of the device;
ability to use on the road, on business trips, etc.;
compactness;
soft effect on the shoes themselves;
low cost (from 130 rubles).

Flaws:

takes quite a long time to dry completely;
very cheap designs can be fragile.

Wooden heating pads

Wooden stands are made from moisture-resistant plywood. They are used not only for drying shoes, but also for warming up the threshold area, heating the feet, etc.

To dry, shoes are placed on plywood and the device is turned on. It takes several hours for the pair to dry completely. Cost – more than 1,000 rubles.

Advantages:

Easy to use.
Multifunctionality, which allows you to use the device for other purposes, not just drying shoes.
Ease of use.

Disadvantages of use:

It takes a lot of time to dry shoes after washing.
Dimensions of the stand.
Inconvenient transportation.
Relatively high cost.

The action of such a local electrical appliance is similar to a heated floor.

Ultraviolet dryers

A shoe dryer with ultraviolet radiation allows not only drying, but also antibacterial treatment. During operation of such a device, unpleasant odors and microorganisms that cause fungus are eliminated.

For example, the Shine ECB-12/220k model with a power of 12 W, according to the manufacturer, can cope with almost all common fungi and many bacteria, including staphylococcus, in a few hours of operation (from 3 to 6).

Advantages:

efficiency;
suitable even for delicate shoes;
presence of a timer (many models);
fungus prevention.

The disadvantage is the high cost (about 900 rubles for a model with a timer).

Ionizers

The supply of fresh ozonized air removes odors and moisture from shoes, leaving them feeling fresh. An example of such a device is Zenit xj-300, which provides the production of 1000 ions per 1 cm³.

Advantages:

Efficiency.
Quiet operation.
Light weight (about 0.2 kg).
Elimination of odors.

Flaws:

It takes time to dry.
Need batteries.
High price (about 1,500 rubles).

The presence of additional functions leads to higher prices for models.

Assembling drying shelves

So how does such an infrared dryer assemble and work? Here, unlike the option with a fan heater, no thermostat or thermometer is needed. During operation, the film heats up exactly at the temperature that we require (about 45C).

It is this that is optimal in this case for drying plant products. Of course, we should not forget that the enzymes contained in them die at temperatures above 38C. Therefore, at first glance it seems that 45 degrees is a lot.

However, here we are talking about the heating temperature of the film itself. If you put a spacer (baking paper, mesh) between it and the fruit, and this is what experienced housewives recommend doing, then the heating temperature of the products themselves will no longer exceed the permissible 38C.

Drying racks can be made in two ways. The first one, for the lazy ones, is to cut out a shelf of the required size from a board or plywood and put a reflective foil backing on top.

Again, it is not recommended to use chipboard material as a substrate. After heating, you may well end up with a poisoned product rather than a crispy treat.

Roll out the film over all this. To prevent it from moving, it is enough to press it down on top with wooden blocks.

This is a very primitive, cheapest and not particularly aesthetic method. There are much better ones.

For the second option, prepare two blanks. These will be the supporting legs of our dryer.

The width of such a blank should be slightly wider than the film itself. The optimal size is 20*70cm.

Strips are cut from 9mm plywood, from which the shelves themselves will be assembled. The width of the slats is 4cm.

The entire tree is sanded with sandpaper, irregularities and burrs are removed.

The frame of the structure is screwed onto self-tapping screws. In our case there will be five shelves.

The most important “trick”, which simplifies and lightens the entire product as much as possible, are the electrodes.

The film in this dryer is laid not on a wide board, but across strips of electrodes.

In the version with a wooden base, a lot of heat is lost through useless heating of the board. Even reflective foil sometimes doesn't help much.

In this case, due to the emptiness below, the vegetables and fruits on the shelves will warm up on both sides. Firstly, they lie on a warm base and are heated by it, and secondly, the upper bar also gives off its heat a little downwards.

To speed up the drying process, you can cover the entire structure with a blanket and make several holes at the top and bottom for moisture to escape. After a few hours, when the moisture has evaporated, the holes are closed and drying continues.

Make the distance between the shelves 10-15cm. It could be narrowed and the heating increased. However, do not forget about the moments of laying out the pieces on the shelves.

If the framework is too narrow, this will be inconvenient.

Electrodes are used with a diameter of 4 mm. They are inserted into the drilled holes of the plywood side strips in increments of 12-15cm.

How to choose a shoe dryer

It is important to pay attention to the following details:

Material. Aluminum devices have optimal thermal conductivity. It’s good if the device has ultraviolet light that kills germs.

Design reliability

It is important to check how well the parts are secured and how reliable the device is.

Drying time. The optimal drying period is 1-2 hours

It largely depends on the heating temperature and the uniform distribution of warm air.

Versatility. Some models are used for drying socks, gloves and even food.

Size and weight. Small dimensions allow you to take the dryer with you on the road.

Other parameters It is necessary to focus on the safety of the model and the length of the cord.

Appearance plays a secondary role, and the price varies depending on the quality and versatility of the product. All that remains is to get acquainted with the best dryer models.

How to fix a dryer?

Before you begin repairing a shoe dryer, you must disconnect the dryer from the electrical outlet. A working electrical appliance must not be subjected to any mechanical impact in order to avoid electrical injury. If only one of the heaters does not work, then the cause of the breakdown is a disconnected wire from the heating element.

Fixing the problem will consist of several stages.

Unscrew the fixing bolts on the rear panel of the plastic housing.
Open the case.
Check that the power wire is connected to the heating plate. The heater is a ceramic resistor covered with a thin layer of foil and located directly under the radiator grille. In case of a break, the wire will have to be reconnected using a soldering iron.
After the wire is soldered, it is necessary to wait until the alloy has completely cooled, since elements that have not completely cooled after soldering may become detached from each other at the time of assembly.
After making sure that the connection is reliable, you can install the heating plate in its place, connect the body parts to each other and fix the structure with bolts.

If none of the heaters in the device works, and the cord has visible damage, such as creases or bare areas, then the cord has become unusable and needs to be replaced. Repairs can be made in several stages:

unscrew the bolts;
open the housing of both heaters;
determine the connection point between the power cord and the plate;
unscrew the bolts holding the wire to the plate and remove the damaged cord;
install a new wire on the existing fastenings, secure with clamping bolts;
assemble the body.

If one or more backlight diodes burn out, then it will be impossible to do without a multimeter to check the serviceability of these elements. The renovation job involves a number of steps.

Disassemble the heater housing with non-working backlight.
Determine where to mount the LEDs.
By connecting the multimeter probes to each LED one by one, determine the faulty light bulb. If the light element is working properly, the arrow of the device will show a value other than “1”. All non-functioning LEDs must be replaced with new ones.
Using a soldering iron, disconnect the non-working ones and install new LEDs, check for the presence of alternating current with a multimeter.
If all LEDs work, proceed to assembling the housing and checking the functionality of the device.

Assembling an infrared dryer

An infrared dryer is suitable for mushrooms, vegetables, nuts and fruits. It’s quite easy to make it yourself. To do this you will need the following materials:

iron wire with a diameter of 5 to 8 mm;
a cardboard box, for example, from a vacuum cleaner;
aluminium foil;
metal mesh;
light bulb socket;
awl;
screwdriver;
self-tapping screws;
socket for a regular light bulb with fasteners;
thermometer;
infrared lamp;
aluminum tape or glue.

The installation is created in the following sequence.

The insides of the box are covered with aluminum foil using tape or glue.
Shelves are made from mesh according to the size of the box.
On any wall near the bottom, make a hole for the supply wire and secure the cartridge with self-tapping screws.
Screw in the infrared bulb.
A thermometer is attached to any sidewall.
Cut the wire into pieces that are approximately 5 mm longer than the width of the box.
Punch holes in the sides for the rods for the shelving.
They insert a wire into them and seal its protruding ends with tape on the outside.
Stack the shelves.

As a result, after all the manipulations, you will get an installation similar to that shown in the photo below.

The recommended temperature for drying vegetables and fruits is 40-45 degrees. It is adjusted by turning the light bulb on and off, or by opening the top.

The lid can be the side parts of the box, or it can be made separately from the same cardboard. If you want to automate the design, you should use a temperature sensor. Under his control, the light will turn on automatically.

Also in the created design you can use an incandescent lamp (its sufficient power is 60 W) or a heating film used to create heated floors. In the latter case, at home, a piece of 50 by 100 cm with a power of 110 W is sufficient. In general, the length of the fragment is selected based on the box used.

When using film you will also need:

insulation, for example, bitumen, used to create heated floors;
a set consisting of 2 clamps, two eyelets and the same number of terminal rings, which is intended for connecting power to the film.

PVC tape is laid on top of the bitumen insulation. To connect the film, you will need to solder wires and contacts.

This dryer allows you to reach temperatures of almost 60 degrees. It can be rolled up and placed on the bottom of a box made using the previously indicated method.

How to make an electric shoe dryer

A homemade electric dryer made from a shoe rack, a thermal cable and a sheet of metal looks aesthetically pleasing and does the job of drying.

Installation steps:

The size is measured according to the size of the bottom shelf and a metal plate is cut out. The basis for drying is metal 0.8 mm thick
A self-regulating heating cable with a power of 30 W/m, reaching a temperature of 85 0C, is cut into pieces. The cable regulates its temperature along all lengths
Remove the top sheath of the wire and connect the three sections into a network in parallel. Cable contacts are protected with electrical tape
To increase heat transfer, the cable is attached to a sheet of metal using aluminum tape. Several layers of adhesive tape securely fasten the wires and increase thermal conductivity
The lower part is covered with a reflector, and the upper part is painted black. The finished dryer is placed on a shelf and plugged in.

Attention! To increase heat emission, the metal surface is painted black. So the power of the device increases from 30 W to 50 W

Temperature measurements showed that the shoe dryer heats up not only on the lower, but also on the upper tier.

The device dries the shoes of all family members overnight

From the cooler

Make your own air dryer for shoes from coolers from a broken microwave oven according to the instructions:

The corrugated pipe for electrical wiring is divided into 2 parts. 2 holes are made in the junction box at the end sides. Junction box with rubber elastic plugs
The cooler is placed in the box so that air enters the pipes. The blades are trimmed if necessary
The gaps are filled with a rubber gasket. The bottom is glued with a vibration isolator. The cooler is attached to the base of the box with screws. Connect the wires and check the functionality of the dryer. A hole for the wire is cut in the rubber plugs

From small fans

A do-it-yourself electric ski shoe dryer is assembled from the following materials:

sewer drain 2 pieces of 25 cm each, with a cross section of 5 cm;
2 plugs, diameter 5cm;
power unit;
2 fans from an old computer;
2 tubular resistors OPEV-30, resistance 24 Ohms;
2 grilles for the fan;
1 m of double stranded wire PEV 0.75;
electrical tape, soldering iron, knife, shrink tape.

Work algorithm:

A hole is soldered into the plastic plug. Install the grate. The fans are attached to plastic plugs. The wires are routed out. Mark the fan with a marker and use a soldering iron to melt a hole for fastening
The wire is bent and placed in a resistor. With the bare wires down, install the part to the plastic plug with the fan. The wires are soldered. Bent wire prevents resistors from moving within 25cm sections
The network cable is brought out and connected to the power supply in parallel. The workpieces are put into pieces and tested. The wire is insulated. The red “+” wire is attached to the power supply

When the device was turned on, the air temperature in the room increased by 8 0C.

The device reaches operating mode in 10 minutes

From thermostatic cable

Assembly steps:

Cut pieces of the thermostatic cable 35 cm long. Prepare the electrical cord, terminal block and thermal cable
Electrical tape is used to insulate the cable on one side. The wires on the second side are exposed. The sheath is removed and the veins are freed
Attach the terminal block. All wires are carefully insulated
The segments are bent into a loop and soldered to the electrical cord. The joints are carefully sealed with heat shrink tape.

The finished shoe dryer is connected to a 220V power supply.

The temperature control cable heats up to a temperature of 40 0C

The video shows instructions for assembling an electric shoe dryer with your own hands:

From plastic pipes

For production you will need:

hair dryer;
plastic pipes;
corners for PVC connection;
hacksaw;
soldering iron for PVC products;
clamps.

Assembly instructions:

Prepare pipe sections 20 cm long. At a distance of 2-3 cm from the ends, a hole is made for air to escape. Elements are cut at an angle of 40 0
The corners are attached to PVC. Corner fasteners are soldered to pipe sections
A tee is attached to the corners. Using a soldering iron, connect the tee and corners
A hairdryer is attached to the hole using clamps and a pipe. Testing the device

Additional details

To mount and place the boards, display and encoder, I modeled and printed several parts.
First of all, I moved the switch to the back of the dryer and added a connector so that the network connection cable was removable: We assemble the housing for the display, control and encoder boards:

We glue a piece of thick film between the front panel and the display to protect the tablet screens so that the display does not get too dusty.

Next, we assemble the power part. We attach the board to the bottom at the corners. Add a 2 A glass fuse in a detachable housing:

We attach the temperature sensor as close as possible to the heater pipe so that it is necessarily in the flow of exhaust air. This is necessary for the fastest possible response to temperature changes and the most accurate readings. I tried to place the sensor on the periphery, closer to the edge, but this greatly increases the response time and the error in maintaining the set temperature. In addition, as measurements and experiments have shown, due to the high air flow speed and sufficient heater power, the difference in temperature directly at the outlet of the pipe and at the periphery at the edge does not exceed 3℃. We attach the sensor to the cable with a piece of sheet brass:

Let's put everything together. As a result, we get this device:

Immediately answering a reasonable question - won’t the printed parts melt, especially inside the dryer? No, they won't float. Everything is printed from PLA. In the “basement” of the dryer, the temperature barely exceeds room temperature, since it is from below that the fan impeller takes in air. A test run for 24 hours at a maximum temperature of 70℃ followed by disassembly and examination of the parts did not reveal any deformations. To be sure, you can print them from ABS. Then they will definitely withstand it, since the body of the dryer itself is cast from this particular plastic, and there is no point in making the parts more heat-resistant.