DIY laser level from a laser pointer

A laser level or level is used in the field of construction and facing work for the purpose of precise marking on any type of surface. The procedure is easy and quick, which significantly saves time in the work process. Even an inexperienced technician can use the tool: simply fix the device on a support (floor, ceiling, wall) opposite the marking surface and turn it on. On the surface where the marking occurs, a projection of the laser beam will appear horizontally and/or vertically.

The cost of the presented device in various retail outlets is quite high. But, if you use certain instructions, show accuracy and some patience, it is quite possible to make a laser level with your own hands. This approach has a positive effect on saving financial resources that go towards the construction and renovation of various premises.

How to check if a homemade level is working properly

Using a simple rope, the device is suspended from a support in the center of the room. The equipment is turned on, directed in the desired direction, and the required distance along the length of the beam projection is noted. After this, a special stick is installed to ensure ease of marking.

After such important events, you can begin to use the device and point it in any direction. If you leave the position of the stick unchanged, the same height of marks will be ensured. After marking the laser dots, they are connected with construction cord. Next, using a measuring meter, preferably a hard one, draw a marking line.

Manufacturing and installation of a laser pointer on a machine

Even a high school student can cope with the upcoming work. The most difficult operation ahead is probably soldering the wires. Using a pendulum saw or any other available saw, we cut two identical parallelepiped bars from a wooden blank.

We drill holes of the required diameter in wooden blocks closer to one edge on a drilling machine.

We process the bars using a manual grinding stone to give them an attractive appearance and ease of use. Use a wallpaper knife to cut two identical strips of double-sided tape, wrap them tightly around two laser LEDs and insert them into the holes in the wooden blocks.

Using double-sided tape, we attach wooden blocks with laser LEDs to a fixed spindle stop (it was made on a 3D printer, but you can also cut it out of wood yourself) at an angle of 90 degrees relative to each other.

Laser-based level and level design

Laser levels and levels use the principle of directly indicating a target - a point or line on a surface. They can be tracked directly (in relatively low light) or through the eyepiece of the device.

In addition to a point or line (the trace of the intersection of a light plane with a solid opaque surface), levels and levels allow you to obtain a cross-shaped pointer, as well as simultaneously use two or more emitters.

Due to the scattering of the laser beam into a plane, such devices are often called “laser plane builders”. In general, the set of functions of the device depends on the number of emitters and optical devices for concentrating or scattering the beam.

Factory level or artisanal development

If we compare a level made with our own hands and a factory level, then in terms of performance characteristics, the latter naturally outperforms its homemade counterpart. The advantages are primarily related to accuracy and line length. This is where they are practically exhausted. A homemade device is quite capable of marking several points on the surface. After which the operator will only have to draw a line along them.

The performance of levels made from laser pointers is superior to their water counterparts. Of course, they are better and more accurate than a traditional plumb line. The resulting parameters are more than enough to perform household operations. At the same time, the owner saves several thousand rubles. The advantages of handicrafts also include:

High operator speed;
Relatively long beam length;
Functionality and ease of use.

Laser pointers are universal. They are used for marking wall, floor, and ceiling surfaces. The rays are projected both horizontally and vertically. The methods for making levels presented above provide a lot of room for maneuver. In one case you will need a drill and wooden blocks, in another an old drive from the player, the simplest option involves a pointer, a piece of foam plastic and a bucket of water.

The answer to the question to buy or not to buy depends on the goals and scope of work. If marking is done sporadically, there is no need to spend extra money. If the device is needed for professional activities, it is better to buy it, especially since the performer’s reputation is at stake.

To summarize, anyone can make a laser level at home. This will require a pointer, a minimum of components and an extra hour of time.

Option No. 1 – Use a flat stand

In the first case, in order to make the device ourselves, we will need the following materials:

a regular laser pointer (shown in the photo above; if you don’t have it lying around from previous years, you can buy it, the price is low);
bubble building level;
wooden peg, 1 to 1.3 meters long, 5 to 6 cm in diameter;
a small piece of rubber;
a sheet of plywood or board along the length of the level.

Having prepared all the materials, you can proceed to assembling a homemade device. To make it clearer to you how to make a laser level with your own hands, we provide a step-by-step guide:

Prepare the laser pointer. To make the beam brighter and clearer, break through the glass in the nozzle. To do this, cover the nozzle with cardboard and carefully break the glass. We will improve the construction level. You need to attach a pointer to the top of the instrument, for which it is better to use clamps. To be able to slightly adjust the direction of the laser beam in the future, place a piece of rubber between the level and the pointer, as shown in the drawing. Assembling the stand. First, one of the ends of the bar needs to be sharpened so that it fits well into the soil. After this, you need to assemble a reliable stand from a peg and a sheet of plywood with your own hands, screwing the sheet to the second end of the block with a self-tapping screw

We draw your attention to the fact that the plywood must be screwed strictly perpendicularly, otherwise the accuracy of the measurements will leave much to be desired.

That's all the manufacturing instructions. As you can see, it is not difficult to make a simple laser level with your own hands, but the problem is that such a homemade product cannot be installed on a hard surface, for example, a concrete screed. To solve this problem, you can also evenly screw a board from the second end of the peg, which will serve as a stand. In addition, you can make a stand, like a real level, but making a tripod will take more time.

Using such a homemade laser pointer device is not difficult. First, the stand is driven into the ground, after which it is leveled with a bubble level - the bubble should be strictly in the center. Next, you need to turn on the pointer and mark the point projected on the wall with a pencil. After this, the stand carefully rotates along its axis in a horizontal plane to the next mark. The two points are connected to each other and that’s it – the straight line on the wall is ready, you can start installing the electrical wiring!

It should be noted right away that you should not rush and start important marking work from the very beginning. First of all, you must make sure that the homemade product works correctly so that the result does not become disastrous for you. To do this, you need to adjust the homemade laser level (in other words, check the accuracy of the work).

You can make the adjustment yourself like this:

You need to screw a self-tapping screw no more than 120 mm long into the sheet of plywood on which the level is installed. The head of the screw must coincide with the projecting line of the laser pointer, as shown in the drawing.
Next, you need to turn on the pointer and point it at one of the walls, then make the appropriate mark with a pencil. The second self-tapping screw must not be completely screwed into this point.
Now a profile for drywall or any other plank of light weight is carefully installed on the heads of the screws.
A homemade laser level is installed on the profile and, if required, the bar is aligned in a horizontal plane at the base of the bubble. Alignment must be done by tilting higher/lower the edge of the profile that is located closer to the wall.
Having leveled the profile, you need to screw a new screw into the wall, if necessary, and then remove the profile.
In the end, the homemade level is installed on the stand and the pointer is adjusted to a new point (the screw head). Now your device is perfectly level.

With the help of such a homemade laser device, you can independently make horizontal lines to conduct hidden wiring in the house. However, you should not trust the accuracy of the measurements too much, because... This is not a professional tool and the error here is quite high.

Video review of a more complex self-regulating cross-type model

How to make a level with your own hands

This is interesting: How to make a soldering iron with your own hands: a thorough look at the question

Manufacturing technology

You can make such a level with your own hands from a laser pointer. It is enough to know the structure of a laser pointer and the structure of a conventional construction tool.

If you take into account the price of a water level and a regular pointer with a beam, it will be several times cheaper than a professional tool.

Step-by-step instruction

For a laser pointer you will need:

Water level
Laser pointer
Fastenings

When choosing a water tool, you need to pay attention that the back side is smooth, otherwise the pointer will be inconvenient to attach. The laser pointer should also have a flat surface

They are connected using glue or tape

It is important to set the pointer as level as possible to the water level. After the joints have been glued, you need to use a ruler to measure the distance from the bottom of the water level to the very sight of the laser pointer

The resulting size will indicate the bottom of the mark from the direction of the laser beam.

Homemade level

Making a laser level with your own hands is not so easy. It will require not only the above materials, but also a device for installation. For example, it could be a stand made of wood or metal. It will not be possible to assemble such a tool from available materials. You need to correctly calculate the holder for the level.

The instructions for assembling such a level indicate the accuracy of its geography when used. If you go to hardware stores, you can find a round water level that ensures the evenness of both surfaces at once. If you assemble and install it on your pointer, you can easily use this device for home use.

Remember that a professional tool is built much better than a homemade one. And when creating and using homemade devices, you are more susceptible to construction errors. After all, if it is not possible to buy an expensive instrument, you can always borrow it from friends, neighbors, or rent it from special companies.

How to make a level yourself

To make a level you will need a tripod, a housing, and a leveling device. Laser devices with a directed beam must be purchased or taken from an old module.

Increase the operating time of the device by connecting to an external power supply. To do this, remove the batteries and accumulators, and connect the contacts to a voltage source with a value of at least 4.5 V. The standard value may vary depending on the model.

When purchasing a pointer with a laser beam, take into account the power. It is optimal to purchase a device with a green light beam to increase visual perception and make it safe for vision.

From a laser pointer

Laser pointer level

In addition to the device, you will need other materials and equipment:

a wooden block 2.5 cm thick and wide, 50 cm long;
construction lace made of silk, synthetics;
a metal or wood rod to support the level;
electric drill;
tube along the length and cross-section of the pointer;
a simple motor from a children's car;
battery "crown";
terminal block;
switch;
mirror for household cosmetics.

Holes are drilled in the rail on both sides, one of which is needed to fix the emitting device, the second for the rope. The laser is attached to one end, and a cord is threaded into the hole of the second so that it moves freely through the opening.

The support stick can be taken from any material. This can be a specialized galvanized profile, wooden slats, handles, brooms, shovels, rakes. The main condition is the possibility of rigid fixation.

From polystyrene foam and a container of water

A piece of foam plastic placed in a container of water can serve as a support for a laser level. The center of gravity and buoyant forces will be balanced, so the object will be in equilibrium. In an aquatic environment, the foam with the pointer is rotated in different directions, the beam will draw a line along all vertical surfaces of the room.

You will need:

laser device;
foam scrap;
electrical tape, plasticine for fastening;
a vessel filled to the brim with water.

The condition for proper operation is that the top side of the foam is even and the laser is firmly attached to the surface. You can use a piece of polystyrene foam, it will also show horizontal when immersed in water.

Cross level

Homemade level from an old hard drive

This homemade variety is used in different situations. The method works especially well when hanging furniture on walls, or in other cases when you need to find the horizontal and determine the vertical lines. This method makes it easy to check verticality when installing doors, windows, plaster beacons, and laying brick walls. The device replaces the usual plumb line.

To make the module, prepare the following items:

laser devices (pointers) 4 pieces;
tripod (can be from a video camera, camera, old level or theodolite);
CDs - 3 pcs.;
drive from a computer, player;
electrical tape, adhesive tape or plaster for fixation.

Pendulum device

They make devices with their own hands that are close in characteristics to the factory ones. This category includes devices using a pendulum system. In this case, you do not need a laser pointer, but a module with a laser and prisms that project lines vertically and horizontally. For movement, you will need four AA batteries, which are placed in a similar compartment from a children's toy.

Layout of a laser level with a pendulum:

find a pendulum from an old joystick, or take another similar device;
the laser device is fixed on the lower part of the pendulum; for this, a hole is drilled along the diameter of the thickness of the module;
We make weights to adjust the device - slots are made in the pendulum barrel in the horizontal and vertical directions for mounting threaded rods, and I screw nuts onto them.

Level on tripod

The difficult part is creating the correct distribution of the laser beam. The function is facilitated by installing the module on a tripod or tripod and attaching it to it. A piece of hard foam or rubber is installed between the device and the surface. The gasket is secured with rubber bands or clamps. In the absence of a professional tripod, use a shovel handle, a broom, a flat block, or a piece of pipe.

Making a laser level on a tripod:

the stick is fixed to the board or chipboard vertically, trying to ensure stability with the help of spacers;
the angle between the rod and the support is controlled with a carpenter's square or a building level;
A bracket with a pointer is attached to the top of the rod.

Laser center finder for router or drilling machine

A laser center finder is an extremely useful addition to a milling or drilling machine and can be used for a variety of alignment tasks with an amazing degree of accuracy. Centering a cutter or drill press over a hole or other feature on the workpiece is very easy.

There were three features that the wizard wanted to include, namely

;

1. The ability to continue processing in the place where it was installed. 2.Adjustable laser angle. 3. Adjustable focus.

This tool was made entirely from an old damaged laser level and a few pieces of aluminum from a scrap box. The only items "bought" were two AAA batteries. Step 1: Preparing materials and tools

The technician cut off the end of the old level to remove the laser unit. The laser and its lens were mounted inside a small aluminum housing. He rotated this housing to remove the mounting flange that is visible in the photographs. He needed to redesign and use this housing because it was internally threaded for the brass lens holder. This thread allows you to adjust the focus. The last photo also shows the red cover and switch for the battery compartment and the battery spring contact.

The frame was made from several scrap aluminum parts. The dimensions of the parts depend on the size of the device on which they will be installed and are left at the discretion of the reader.

— The craftsman used a milling machine to shape the frame; - A lathe will be useful for making a drill chuck adapter; — Soldering iron for connections; Step 2: Making the Frame

The frame consists of three main parts. Two of them form a clamp for attaching to a router or drill spindle, and one of them is drilled for the battery compartment. The third part is the laser unit housing, which bolts to the half clamp of the battery compartment so that it can be rotated to align the laser to the desired circle diameter.

The two halves of the clamp are connected to each other by a hinge and a bolt. See the first photo above. This design is fast and reliable. The hinge consists of a pin made from a piece of 12 mm steel rod, the length of which is equal to the thickness of the clamping material (in this case it was 19 mm). This trunnion was drilled through the center and tapped with a 6mm thread. The other clamp had a piece of 6mm thread that screwed into the trunnion. The hinge clamp is held closed on the spindle by one bolt. Step 3: Laser System Design

The original laser housing is glued to the drilled hole in the new adjustable support piece. The original threaded housing fits onto a brass lens assembly, allowing the focus to be adjusted according to the distance between the laser and the workpiece. Between the lens assembly and the laser is a spring that acts as a focus adjustment lock.

The back of the laser unit was filled with epoxy resin after small wires were soldered to the laser circuit board. These wires go to the battery compartment. Step 4: Battery Installation

The original spirit level had a red screw-on battery cap that included a switch. The master wanted to save this part, but it was screwed on, and the author did not have a suitable threaded tap. So he cut out the original brass piece that it screwed into and glued it into the battery compartment hole. Being copper, it was easy to solder a wire to transfer energy to the laser. At the other end of the battery hole, a spring contact was installed, which is shown in step 1. Step 5: Balancing

The mechanic has a motorcycle wheel balancer he made many years ago that he uses for a variety of balancing tasks. He made a spindle with a thick disk to mount the laser finder, and this allowed him to check the balance as shown in the picture.

The craftsman wanted to be able to use the laser device when routing, so it had to be fairly well balanced to avoid vibration. First, the balance was checked, which revealed that too much mass was concentrated at the laser end. The excess metal was ground off in this area and a 10mm adjustable steel bolt and nut was added to the opposite side. as a counterweight. Shown in the second photo above. This brought the balance to an acceptable level. Step 6: Installation on Router

The assembly is attached to the spindle of the milling machine so that it can rotate with it without impeding the use of the cutter.

Since the laser is offset relative to the axis of the cutter spindle, the light it emits will describe a circle on the workpiece below. The diameter of this circle is determined by the distance between the spindle and the workpiece, as well as the angle of the laser beam, which the master has made adjustable. The focus can be adjusted as described in the previous step to obtain a visually clear, precise circle. Step 7: Installation on Drill Press

The usefulness of this device is enhanced if it can be mounted on a drill chuck, either on a router or in a drill stand. To use this feature, the craftsman made a special disc to grip the clamp with a 12mm center rod to install the chuck. The photographs show the installed unit, as well as the mounting disc. Step 8: Problems

When the master first began testing the laser device on his milling machine, he noticed a strange phenomenon.

Initial tests with hand rotation gave excellent results, however, as soon as they were turned mechanically, at high speeds, part of the circle disappeared. Strange right? It turns out that at such a high speed, the batteries moved away from one of the contacts. The fix was simple, the technician simply used a stronger spring in the battery compartment. Step 9: Modification

Initially, the master made a stupid mistake with the first clamp design.

He made four points of contact with the router spindle. Of the four points of contact, one will not touch or will not touch as much as the other three. In practice this did not create any problems; the clamp was always reliable.

This first photo shows how the artist corrected this situation in Photoshop.

He then physically fixed it by trimming the area of the original two contact points and then installed a flat head screw to provide a single contact on that half of the clamp, giving a total of three clamp points. Step 10: Use

These photos show a job where the laser center finder saved a lot of time.

The technician needed to drill holes for the cover screws in the crankcase of the motorcycle to allow the installation of small oil o-rings.

The first photo shows how you can focus on each hole. Once centered, all that was required was to lower the cutter to the specified depth of cut and move on to the next hole. The whole operation was completed very quickly.

Details of creating a laser center finder can be seen in the video:

The simplest laser from a computer mouse

If you need a laser just for fun, it’s enough to know how to make a laser at home from a mouse. Its power will be quite insignificant, but it will not be difficult to manufacture. All you need is a computer mouse, a small soldering iron, batteries, wires and a shutdown switch.

First you need to disassemble the mouse

It is important not to break them out, but to carefully unscrew and remove them in order. First the upper casing, followed by the lower

Next, using a soldering iron, you need to remove the mouse laser from the board and solder new wires to it. Now all that remains is to connect them to the shutdown switch and connect the wires to the battery contacts. Batteries can be used of any type: both finger batteries and so-called pancakes.

Thus, the simplest laser is ready.

If a weak beam is not enough for you, and you are interested in how to make a laser at home from improvised means with sufficiently high power, then you should try a more complex method of making it, using a DVD-RW drive.

To work you will need:

DVD-RW drive (write speed must be at least 16x);
AAA battery, 3 pcs.;
resistor (from two to five ohms);
collimator (can be replaced with a part from a cheap Chinese laser pointer);
capacitors 100 pF and 100 mF;
LED lamp made of steel;
wires and soldering iron.

Work progress:

The first thing we need is a laser diode. It is located in the DVD-RW drive carriage. It has a larger heatsink than a regular infrared diode. But be careful, this part is very fragile. While the diode is not installed, it is best to wrap its lead with wire, since it is too sensitive to static voltage

Pay special attention to polarity. If the power supply is incorrect, the diode will immediately fail.

Connect the parts according to the following scheme: battery, on/off button, resistor, capacitors, laser diode. Once the functionality of the design has been verified, all that remains is to come up with a convenient housing for the laser. For these purposes, a steel body from a regular flashlight is quite suitable. Don’t forget also about the collimator, because it is the one that turns the radiation into a thin beam.

Now that you know how to make a laser at home, do not forget to follow safety precautions, store it in a special case and do not carry it with you, as law enforcement agencies may file complaints against you in this regard.

Watch the video: Laser from a DVD drive at home and with your own hands

A laser cutter is a unique device that is useful to have in the garage of every modern man. Making a laser for cutting metal with your own hands is not difficult, the main thing is to follow simple rules. The power of such a device will be small, but there are ways to increase it using available devices. The functionality of a production machine that can do anything without embellishment cannot be achieved with a homemade product. But for household chores, this unit will come in handy. Let's look at how to build it.

Mounting the switch in the housing

In order not to waste the energy of the batteries that power the laser LEDs, we will install a two-position on/off switch between them. To do this, we use a transparent plastic box with a closing lid.

In the bottom of the box, using a drill with a thin drill bit, we make a hole where the two-position switch will subsequently be installed. We drill it to the required diameter using a step drill fixed in a drill chuck. We insert the switch from the outside into the hole in the plastic box so that the “0-1” key is on the outside. We insert the wires into the side of the box through the hole intended for them. Using a soldering iron and solder, we connect the wires in the following order: “+” batteries with “+” LED, “–” batteries with a switch, switch with “–” LED. Close the lid of the plastic box.

Using double tape, we attach a plastic box with a two-position switch to a place on the body of the drilling machine so that it is completely safe and, at the same time, convenient for turning the laser LEDs on and off.

Device setup

To set up a homemade laser level, you can use different methods, but one of the simplest is to use a mirror. The diagram below shows how this technique is used.

After the initial installation of the device, the laser is turned on and at the point where it falls on the wall (any other suitable plane), a small mirror is attached using a piece of plasticine. Using a level, achieve a strictly vertical (perpendicular to the planned position of the beam) position of the mirror plane. After this, the laser is turned on again. If the incident (emanating from the device) and reflected beam coincide, the adjustment is considered to be of high quality. If a match does not occur, change the position of the laser emitter until the desired result is achieved.

To set up a laser device that has a line rather than a point as a target designator, a target-rail is used (it is convenient to use a metal profile for drywall). In the place where the light line is reflected on the vertical surface, press the target (rail) and use a level to check its horizontalness (or verticality, depending on the position of the laser).

There is a quicker way to check if the settings are correct. The diagram shows how, using a bubble level and a stretched cord, the horizontality of the lines connecting the laser emitter and the screws on the wall at the point of impact of the beam is checked.

Preparing for work

Before using the laser level, it must be aligned vertically. There are two types of devices - with and without automatic position adjustment. If your unit does not have auto-tuning, it has bubble levels and adjustable feet. Tighten the legs so that the air bubbles are exactly in the center of the scale. After this, the level can be turned on.

This is what a laser level looks like

If the laser level is self-adjusting, it compensates for small deviations - about 4° - on its own. When the position is set, a sound signal sounds (in another version it stops beeping) or the green LED lights up, indicating readiness for work (before this the red light is on). If the normal position cannot be corrected by automatic correction, you will need to manually tighten the legs so that the angle of deviation is smaller.

Using a water container

You can make a simple design with a high degree of marking accuracy from materials available at home. To do this, you will need to prepare a water tank, a piece of foam plastic (expanded polystyrene), a pointer, any sticky material - plasticine, adhesive tape.

First, the container, which can be used as a bucket or pan, is filled to the brim with water.
The laser pointer is installed on foam plastic, trying to place it evenly, and secured with plasticine, adhesive tape, and rubber bands.
The container is installed at the required height.
Styrofoam with a pointer is placed in the tank.
Move it to the on position.
By changing the direction of the light pointer and rotating it around its axis, the beam is projected onto the marked surfaces and the projection locations are marked. All points relative to the horizon will be strictly in the same plane.

Homemade laser devices can hardly be called ideal, but the clarity of the markings applied is very high. Another advantage is that anyone can assemble such a tool with their own hands from available materials, spending a little money and time on its production.

A laser level is a very important tool for various indoor construction and renovation work. Using a laser level, you can easily project the intersection points of horizontal and vertical directions onto the work surface, creating an exact 90-degree angle. Also, a laser level makes it easier to perform such construction work as:

Eye level

A private homeowner may also need topographical/geodetic surveying of the area. For example, to connect the drain from the house to a common septic tank or centralized sewer system on your own. But a good, inexpensive and reliable eye level is much more important for a geography lesson. Most schools have a rough protractor with a plumb line and Andrianov's compass for practical lessons in visual surveying. The final results of working with them diminish the authority of both the teacher and the educational process as a whole in the eyes of students, and students are given practically no practical skills.

The basic techniques for leveling relatively flat terrain and steep slopes are shown in Fig. below. Professionals carry out leveling using a theodolite, but this is an expensive device that requires careful handling and special training in working with it. We will make a fairly accurate, stable and easy-to-use visual level, simpler - from a compass with a sight and a good protractor with a plumb line.

Basic techniques for leveling on the ground

A regular travel compass will do. Better - in a round case (item 1 in the next figure). If you take a more expensive tablet compass (item 2), then when adjusting the level (see below), the installation error of the sight will have to be recorded and then taken into account all the time.

What kind of compass with sight and protractor are needed to make an eye level?

If you have a little “extra” money, then an engineering compass is even better suited for a level. It looks the same as a tourist one. But, firstly, engineering compasses are equipped with at least a simple built-in deflector, which significantly reduces the influence of nearby ferromagnetic objects and electromagnetic fields (for example, from power lines) on the needle. Secondly, there are engineering compasses on sale with 2-degree scales: forward (right) and reverse (left, compass). Using the compass scale, the magnetic azimuth of the location is read directly, without additional calculations.

A school protractor-protractor (item 3) is suitable, as stated above, except to spoil the teacher’s mood and amuse the students. For the level, you need to take an engineering (item 4) or navigational protractor with a length of 30 cm. Its first advantage is at least 2 scales (direct and reverse) from 2 rows of marks each. With some skill, this allows you to take the elevation angle with an accuracy of plus or minus 0.5 degrees. Which is quite enough for both laying utility lines and for school activities. Secondly, professional protractors are available for sale (cartographic, geodetic, geological, mining) with a 3rd double-sided scale, 90 degrees from zero along a plumb line. That is, the elevation angle is taken again with such a protractor without additional calculations.

The device of a homemade level for visual leveling on the ground is shown in pos. 1 and 2 fig. below. In this case, a precision level is absolutely necessary. It is installed closer to the tripod nut or, if the device is mounted on a tripod without it (see above), exactly in the center of the board. The compass is placed closer to the rear sight of the sight. The material of the working platform, its preparation and processing are the same as for a laser level, see above; the same applies to the ability to do without a tripod nut. The compass is fastened with self-tapping claws; level – any. The front sight is a black self-tapping screw 2x15 or 2x25. A hole half the thickness of the board is drilled under the head of the self-tapping screw on the underside of the working platform, and its tip is sawed off to a flat plane. The rear sight is a furniture corner 10x10x(0.5-1) with oval mounting holes. If this is not found, the holes in one of the shelves need to be sawed into ovals with a needle file. There is no need to scratch the aiming line and the azimuth line and fill it with paint; they are needed once when adjusting the device, see below. The thread (suspension) of the plumb line is best made from thin fishing line. Its upper end is wrapped around a fastening screw without a knot, with a free loop, and during assembly it is clamped between a pair of washers so that the suspension does not slip out and rub against the protractor.

The device of a homemade eye level for work on the ground

Assembly Features

The crucial moment in the manufacture of this level is the installation of the front sight:

A through pioneer (installation) hole with a diameter of 1-1.3 mm is drilled under the front sight on a drilling machine (to ensure that it is exactly perpendicular to the face of the working platform).
Then, using a large drill, turning the board over, select a hole for the screw head.
After this, use a self-tapping screw with the tip not yet sawed off to drive the installation hole 2-3 times.
Next, the self-tapping screw is unscrewed, and 2-3 drops of PVA are dripped from the installation hole with the thread rolled into it and the glue is pushed along the entire length of the hole with a thin wire or splinter.
Finally, the board is dried for at least 2 days in a heated room, and in the meantime the tip of the screw is carefully filed down, as indicated above.

In addition, one of the shelves of the corner for the rear sight needs to be cut evenly to a height of approx. 1 mm (item 1a in the figure). In fact, if only a little bit of the bend remains above the bend. After this, in the middle of the resulting rear sight strip, an aiming slot is cut with a hacksaw or (better) a hand jigsaw with a metal file to a depth of also approx. 1 mm. The accuracy of the marking is according to a mechanic's ruler, because Then the sight will be adjusted. The point here is that the level has neither a rifle butt nor a pistol grip. Therefore, the lower the rear sight is above the board, the smaller the error will be when shooting slopes, because in the simplest sight of this type, the accuracy of aiming in elevation depends on the mismatch between the visual and aiming axes. If the rear sight is low, then with a vertical deviation of the visual axis, either a board or the sky will appear in the slot instead of the front sight.

Adjustment

The adjustment of an eye level of this design is carried out in 3 stages: a vertical sight (elevation angle), a compass and an azimuth sight (horizontal), and a protractor. All stages can be carried out at home (without going out into the field) and without the use of special equipment.

Sight by elevation

It is not difficult to adjust the sight according to the elevation angle; you only need a good, proven building level. First, the working platform is set exactly horizontally at its own level. The front sight is screwed into place (from below!) and a level is placed on it and the rear sight. Then, by screwing in/unscrewing the front sight, the level bubble is brought out exactly between the marks, pos. 3 in Fig. Once the adjustment is complete, the board is turned over, PVA is dripped into the hole with the fly head and left to dry. PVA glue will securely fix the front sight, and at the same time, if it has dried, you can pick it out for realignment, if necessary.

Azimuth adjustment

To adjust the level in azimuth, you will need a reference point - a remote, thin and clear vertical object: a boiler room pipe, a cellular antenna mast, etc. You can adjust the level in azimuth directly from the room through the window, but it is still better in an open area away from influencing objects, because It is very difficult to measure, take into account and eliminate compass deviation at home. The level is adjusted in azimuth to the trail. order:

The leveling platform is set horizontally in level;
Place the compass in place with north-south (NS, NS) marks exactly along the azimuth line;
The platform is turned until the compass needle aligns exactly with the NS marks;
They “catch” a reference point in the compass sight, pos. 4 in rice;
Record the taken azimuth with an accuracy of 0.5 degrees;
Look through the sight (pos. 5a) and, carefully turning the device, take the reference point to the front sight (pos. 5b);
Loosen the fastening of the rear sight and, also carefully moving it, “catch” the front sight in the slot, pos. 5c;
The rear sight is finally fixed;
Loosen the fastening of the compass and, turning it, set the arrow to the division along the previously measured azimuth (again, position 4);
The compass is finally secured.

Now you understand why you need a round compass? However, the entire adjustment procedure is quite painstaking. In geodesy and topography, specialists who can quickly and accurately conduct visual surveys are always at a premium. Therefore, based on the results of practical work, most likely, you will need to readjust the device once or twice.

What if the compass is a tablet?

It will not be possible to turn it to the true azimuth. Therefore, instead of point 9 above, write down the correction for the difference between the true and taken azimuths directly on the board. It is taken with a plus if the platform was turned to the left (counterclockwise) when adjusting the sight, and with a minus if it was turned to the right. For example, in the case in Fig. the platform needed to be turned to the right approx. by 2 degrees. The correction will be -2 degrees; each time it will need to be subtracted from the azimuth taken by the compass in order to obtain the true azimuth. If the reference mark in the unadjusted sight went in the direction opposite to that in the figure, then the device would need to be turned to the left, the correction would be positive and it would need to be added to the taken azimuth.

Goniometer

The easiest way to adjust a protractor is to loosen the side fastenings of the protractor and set the instrument platform exactly horizontally. Now you need to rotate the protractor around the central fastener until the thread is exactly 90 degrees (or 0 on a double-sided scale), secure the protractor completely - that’s it, the device is ready for use.

Step-by-step instructions for making a laser level

Let's improve the children's laser pointer. It is necessary to unscrew the part of the pointer that does not have inserts with a pattern. The hole needs to be sealed with cardboard and a small hole clearly made in the center, then put the cap back on. Now if you point the pointer at the surface, the laser dot will be clearer. A straight stick must be sharpened at one end and made in the form of a peg. You can also use a shovel handle or a tripod for support. A piece of plywood or a flat board must be firmly attached to the flat end of the stick.

It is very important that the plywood is as level as possible and attached at an exact 90 degree angle. A strip is attached to the surface of the board that matches the length of your bubble level. It should be located in the center of the plywood surface and supported by a screw (nail) so that it can be conveniently turned in different directions. A laser pointer must be attached to the bubble level. This can be done using a clamp and secure it quite firmly to the side of the level.

Now we will place a prepared piece of porous rubber under the pointer for shock absorption. This is necessary in order to easily adjust any angle of inclination along the longitudinal axis.

This can be done using a clamp and secure it quite firmly to the side of the level. Now we will place a prepared piece of porous rubber under the pointer for shock absorption. This is necessary in order to easily adjust any angle of inclination along the longitudinal axis.

Having made all the necessary fastenings, your laser level is ready for use.

How to use a laser level

Once adjusted to your level, you will realize that it is very simple and convenient to use. First, you need to secure the structure to the surface using a pointed corner in a stick. After this, using a bubble level, we align the plane with the bar, so that the laser level we made ourselves shows an even horizontal position.

Now you need to turn on the laser pointer and point it at the surface you need. You will see a reflected laser point, make a mark at this place, now move the laser point further along the surface, check if the horizontal level is off on the bubble level, and place another point.

By connecting two points to each other, you will get an even horizontal line, after which you can start working. The easiest way to connect the dots is to use a metal profile for.

Another video guide

How to mount a laser level with your own hands, and is it even possible? Such a high-tech device for projecting vertical or horizontal surfaces when leveling them is manufactured using high-precision equipment. Professional models use special diode lamps that, using prismatic glass, convert the outgoing light into a thin beam.

This definition sounds somewhat scary. But there is no need to despair, because this applies to professional devices used on construction sites. But such models are not very suitable for home use. There are various options on sale for professional use, as well as for indoor renovation work.

You can purchase household models, but again, after using them once, you will put the device in a drawer, and it is not known when you will need it again. Therefore, we suggest considering the option of making a laser level yourself at home.

What do we do?

As for work on the ground, the choice of leveling method is clear - by eye, see below. But it is better to make a construction and repair level using a laser: its advantage, such as a manifold reduction in the labor intensity of marking work, cannot be missed.

3D laser level and laser level

There are generally 2 types of laser levels on sale: 3-coordinate (3D, pos. A in the figure) and laser levels, pos. B. A 3D level that draws lines, corners, crosses and even, under the control of an external computer, the contours of openings or finishing panels - a complex optical-mechanical design that is unlikely to be repeated by hand. But the main thing is that such devices are very flimsy. Not only an accidental shovel of earth or a dropped tool, but also ordinary construction dust in the room can permanently damage a 3D level. Therefore, devices of this class find rather limited use, and we will take up a laser level - it, homemade, can be fit into the given conditions in all respects.

What we have?

Making a laser level seems to be as easy as shelling pears: attach a laser pointer to a regular bubble level and you’re done. Place everything together on a flat stand, spin it and mark it on the wall. The production of such a “mini-level” usually takes no more than 10 minutes, see for example. video:

Video: homemade mini laser level

But in reality it turns out that the final accuracy of the markings is no good. And when using a “new, good” branded laser level, another circumstance emerges: during operation, it is often necessary to adjust the device. Which practically negates the reduction in labor costs. Let's try to figure out why this is and how to fix the matter. The laser level device is shown on the left in Fig. There its main Achilles heel is visible - the initial installation on a tubular bubble level. For accurate initial installation, the beam of the device must be aligned to the horizon along 2 mutually perpendicular planes. But on site, when placing the level on a random support (on the right in the figure), both adjustments turn out to be interdependent! I twisted the tripod leg horizontally in one direction - the beam “went” up or down along the perpendicular. As a result, it can be easier to mark the markings with your hands than to struggle with setting up the laser.

The laser level device and how to use it

Based on this, we will introduce 2 modifications to the design at once: installation of a leveling block on a 2-coordinate level (see below), and a lightweight portable support, independently adjustable to the vertical. On an exactly vertical support, and if you can immediately see where and how much the leveling unit has tilted, it can be quickly and simply set up in one step for the entire marking cycle at a given site.

Although the device of a homemade laser level with a laser pointer instead of a special head is simpler, the procedure for setting it up (see next figure) is no less labor-intensive, and the accuracy and stability are much worse than with manual marking. In this case, 2 more weak points are added to the design: the pointer head and the rotation unit. Where is the guarantee that the pointer beam “hits” exactly along its optical axis? In order to simply move the beam back and forth, their axiality (coaxiality) is not required, which is why laser pointers are cheap. And if the beam is beveled, then when marking by points, instead of straight horizontal lines and plumb lines, you will get tangentoid segments. Their deflection may not be noticeable by eye, but the marking error will exceed the permissible limits.

Device and methods for adjusting a homemade laser level

As for the rotation unit, custom-made parts for it will hardly cost less than the cost of a ready-made laser level. Amateurs with a rotation unit are as clever as they can be. It’s good if there are suitable ready-made parts for it in the storerooms (simply in the trash), as, for example, in the plot:

Video: rechargeable level from a laser module

But this is a single unique product. If there are no suitable components in the stash, craftsmen manage to make laser levels even from... sewer pipes, see video:

Video: laser level from a sewer pipe

We will try to get out of the situation even easier, but observing the conditions set above: accuracy, stability, simplicity.

How to repair

If the laser mechanism fails, it may display the wrong level or not work at all.

Homemade device requires repair:

in case of diode failures;
when buttons and switches stick or fail;
when the emitter malfunctions, when the laser does not glow or the beam is very dim.

Most often, repair of laser levels is required after the device has been dropped. In this case, the settings are lost, which leads to the device producing incorrect indicators.

If you need to repair a homemade laser, you need to disassemble the device and reassemble it. If the problem is in the pointer, it is easier to replace it with a new one.

In order to avoid repairing a homemade laser level, it is important to be careful when working with it, especially outdoors. Industrial levels with a large operating range have been created to build level planes on large-scale construction sites.

For minor repairs, you can make a laser level yourself

To build level planes on large-scale construction sites, industrial levels with a large operating range have been created. For minor repairs, you can make a laser level yourself.

Video on the topic

This article describes how to make an inexpensive low-power laser with your own hands. You can use this homemade product to create a homemade building level, when creating lighting effects when decorating a home disco, for an additional rear signal for cars, motorcycles, bicycles, etc.

A laser diode is a semiconductor crystal made in the form of a thin rectangular plate. The beam passes through a collecting lens and represents a thin line; when it intersects with the surface, we see a point. To obtain a visible line, you can install a cylindrical lens in front of the laser beam. The refracted ray will look like a fan.

The proposed homemade product can be made quickly and inexpensively even by a novice radio amateur.

I made it from a 5mW laser, 3V supply voltage from AliExpress. Despite the low power of the laser emitter, it is necessary to observe basic safety precautions not to direct the beam into the eyes.

Watch the entire manufacturing process in the video:

List of tools and materials - laser emitter 5 mW, 3V (link to laser) - screwdriver; scissors; - soldering iron; -cambric; foil textolite; - two 1.5V batteries; - connecting wires; battery compartment housing with headlamp power button; -5 Ohm resistor; -LED with a transparent bulb; - strip of tin.

Step one. Making a laser board.

A laser level is a useful invention that makes the process of leveling fast and convenient. To use it, you don’t need to have any special knowledge; just install it on the floor (some models on the wall) and turn it on. The built-in laser emitter will begin to act and instantly project strictly horizontal or vertical lines onto the surface of the room. The mentioned advantages were appreciated in practice by many construction teams, but the convenient device did not find wide use among home craftsmen. A high-quality laser level (with a small measurement error!) is expensive, so buying it for one-time work and then throwing it on the mezzanine is not reasonable. For these purposes, you can make a laser level with your own hands from inexpensive and accessible parts.

How to make a building level with your own hands and varieties

How to make a building level with your own hands and varieties It is difficult, and sometimes unrealistic, to imagine how to carry out construction and repair work and not use such an important tool as a building level. A good level is a guarantee of the quality of the work performed. It is thanks to the building levels, as well as in combination with the conscientiousness of the direct builders, that it will be possible to create perfectly even corners in a room with 90 degrees, a smooth surface of the walls, horizontal floors at the same level, correctly installed window and door openings. It’s impossible to imagine repairs of any complexity, even cosmetic ones, without using the level.

The building level is used for wallpapering a room and for laying tiles. But the most important thing is that you don’t have to buy it, and make a building level with your own hands, which is described in this article.

Characteristics of laser levels

There are a large number of models on the construction market. To understand how each of them works and what capabilities it has, you need to familiarize yourself with its technical characteristics. These include:

Measurement range
. Some types of professional devices operate at a distance of 300 m, but for most devices this parameter does not exceed 20 m. The higher the indicator, the more capabilities the device has.
Number of rays
. The standard number for all devices is 5, but it may vary depending on the technical characteristics. The more rays an optical level generates, the more difficult conditions it can work in.
The type of alignment and the ability to disable it
. In some models, the parameter must be adjusted manually, in others it is adjusted automatically. In the latter case, the device will make more accurate measurements. Manually adjusting the level is not always convenient and there is a risk of error.
Measurement accuracy
. Depending on the parameter, all devices are divided into household, semi-household and professional. The first allow an error of up to 8 mm per 10 m, the second up to 5 mm, the third up to 3 mm.
Type of food
. The levels are battery operated or battery operated. The first type of model can work longer without recharging – up to 20 hours.

Laser level

A laser level is one of the most expensive types of instruments. This device is used for professional work or more complex repairs to determine how smooth the surface is.

This level will easily indicate both horizontal and vertical marking lines for you. There are also devices that have a cross beam. A special advantage of this tool is that it is installed either on a stand or on a plane and, using a special air indicator, is leveled horizontally or vertically to the nearest millimeter.

Types of devices

Since the production of tools does not stand still, the variety of leveling levels is constantly increasing. Now you can find several main types that are most often used in repairs.

Floor
Wall
On a stand

The names of these species speak for themselves. Floor mounted on a flat horizontal surface

It is important to know: if the level will be installed on a table or other surface, it must be centered

The wall level is installed on a vertical surface. There are special mounts on it to keep the device on the wall. This level is useful when marking vertical guides and other materials during repairs. For example, if you are hanging paintings in an apartment, then this type will provide you with maximum symmetry between the paintings.

The laser level on the stand has a special sight and beam. Usually the beam has a cross glow, which immediately determines both the vertical and horizontal lines. This level will facilitate any type of construction, especially finishing work. It has a special water device that shows how level you have set the stand

Before work, it is important to set up the tool correctly, because the evenness of all your material depends on it.

In other types of level, an electronic computer is installed on a stand instead of a water device. It is much easier to use because if set up incorrectly it will self-level.

What do we do?

3D laser level and laser level

What we have?

Video: homemade mini laser level

The laser level device is shown on the left in Fig. There its main Achilles heel is visible - the initial installation on a tubular bubble level. For accurate initial installation, the beam of the device must be aligned to the horizon along 2 mutually perpendicular planes. But on site, when placing the level on a random support (on the right in the figure), both adjustments turn out to be interdependent! I twisted the tripod leg horizontally in one direction - the beam “went” up or down along the perpendicular. As a result, it can be easier to mark the markings with your hands than to struggle with setting up the laser.

The laser level device and how to use it

Device and methods for adjusting a homemade laser level

Video: rechargeable level from a laser module

But this is a single unique product. If there are no suitable components in the stash, craftsmen manage to make laser levels even from... sewer pipes, see video:

Video: laser level from a sewer pipe

We will try to get out of the situation even easier, but observing the conditions set above: accuracy, stability, simplicity.

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Advantages of using a laser level

A homemade light indicator allows you to apply mirror-like, symmetrical markings and mark spatial points at a large distance. The range of action of such models does not exceed 10 meters, but this distance is sufficient to perform most of the necessary marking work. Professional devices (construction level, cut indicator) have greater functionality, but many of the available capabilities are not always in demand. Therefore, at home you can get by with a homemade design.

The characteristics of such a level are quite sufficient to satisfy the basic requirements and apply the necessary markings, because it:

provides the required beam range, up to 10 m;
increases measurement speed;
guarantees an acceptable minimum error.

The main advantage of the device is the positioning of the light beam in the horizontal plane, which allows you to effectively mark structures and control levels, including vertical ones on the wall. In addition to carrying out repair work in an apartment, house and interior design, it is used to lay out the plot of the personal territory, control the construction of fences, and decorate the facade.

Advantages of a homemade tool

Despite the fact that such a tool cannot provide high accuracy, it is quite profitable to use it in everyday life. In any case, the marking will be more accurate, and the process itself is much simpler than when using a water level. It is for this reason that such equipment is in demand among household consumers. The positive characteristics of the tool include:

long beam length;
minimum error;
high marking speed.

The use of the equipment is fully justified for walls, floors, ceilings and other supports of a similar type with any type of surface. Alternative applications include marking the following objects:

personal plots;
fence structure;
facade finishing.

Ingenuity, accuracy and strict adherence to the instructions described above will help to significantly save money and time. Before spending money on expensive equipment, a thrifty person should think about whether it’s worth making the device yourself, saving money? Moreover, its quality and ease of use in everyday life corresponds to an expensive device.

What is the device for?

The purpose of laser devices is varied. They are necessary for the following types of work:

layout of the territory and installation of equipment with horizontal and vertical position control;
marking and determining direction;
surface leveling of floors, walls and ceilings;
arrangement of concrete screed and assembly of floors with adjustable level;
construction of communication highways;
installation of bulkheads and hanging accessories;
installation of staircases.

In the latter case, the device’s ability to mark inclined planes is used. For example, it is necessary to install railings on a flight of stairs. By fixing a level with a laser on it, it is easier to install the railing parallel to the flight.

You can understand how to use a level using the example of common construction and repair work.

Leveling floor, wall and ceiling surfaces

When carrying out such work, additional control marks will be required. Then the laser beam is directed along the plane. The laser is adjusted according to the marks to more accurately determine the evenness of the surfaces.

When using a laser level and obtaining the same data, the floor turns out to be absolutely flat

Laying ceramic tiles

For such work, it is better to take a device with the function of cross-projection of rays horizontally and vertically. Thanks to them, even a novice master will be able to lay tiles flawlessly.

The intersection of the level lines is placed at the center of the proposed tile joints

Wallpapering

The gluing process itself is quite easy, but using a level makes the work even easier. Focusing on the laser beam projected onto the wall, it is much more convenient to align the wallpaper.

Horizontal projection will facilitate the correct gluing of fillets and borders

Assembly of cabinet furniture

Even if there are straight walls in the house, which is a rather rare occurrence, the interior can be ruined by crookedly hung cabinets, shelves and other hanging accessories. And with the help of a laser that creates a circular level line, you will immediately see how to install hanging furniture without distortions.

The horizontal beam of a laser level will help when installing curtain rods

Redevelopment

The plane builder allows you to simplify this process. To determine the exact placement of plasterboard walls and partition elements, you will need to install the laser so that its projection on the floor, walls and ceiling is a mark for the intended partition.

When installing a metal frame under a plasterboard wall, place the laser level on the floor, direct the beam upward so that it marks the profile installation line

If a lot of external work is expected (digging trenches, laying communication lines, laying a foundation), it is better to get a professional plane builder with a beam visible in sunlight.

Components of the structure

The main element of an industrial laser level is a special laser emitter. In a homemade level, its role will be successfully played by a cheap laser pointer, which can be bought in any office supply department. This is only the main detail, but not the only one; the entire list of what is needed is as follows:

laser pointer;
building level (bubble);
a peg with a square or round diameter (d=5-6cm) 1-1.3m long (you can use a shovel holder);
thick plywood or board;
a piece of porous rubber.

A laser pointer and a building level are the basis of a homemade laser level

Stages of creating a homemade product

Laser Pointer Conversion

The first step is to make an emitter from a pointer that will project a clear point on the wall (unfortunately, in any case, it will not be able to “draw” a continuous line on a plane, like expensive purchased tools; special lenses are needed). To do this, take the simplest nozzle, without a pattern, cover it with cardboard and pierce a small hole in the center. Now, when we screw the attachment onto the pointer and turn it on, a bright, clear dot will appear on the plane.

Advantages of using a laser level

The characteristics of such a level are quite sufficient to satisfy the basic requirements and apply the necessary markings, because it:

provides the required beam range, up to 10 m;
increases measurement speed;
guarantees an acceptable minimum error.

Functionality check

The power source is a 3 V flat battery. We mark a point on the workpiece using two intersecting straight lines. We bring the point marked on the workpiece under the lines intersecting at right angles created by laser LEDs. We ensure that the coordinates of the point marked on the workpiece coincide with the intersecting beams reproduced by laser LEDs, and carry out the drilling process.

We make sure that the drilling is carried out exactly in accordance with the markings we made earlier. Once again we repeat the procedure of positioning the workpiece in relation to the drill using laser LEDs, perform drilling and again ascertain the accuracy of the operation. It should be taken into account that we are not using the best drill, and the chuck has some play.

Differences between a homemade model

A homemade laser level can be used for mirror and symmetrical markings over long distances during construction or repair. Of course, the homemade version has a short range of action: approximately 10-12 meters. But this is quite enough to complete most of the necessary notes. Professional devices are capable of creating marks, calculating angles and much more. But the big disadvantage of such devices is their price.

Some of the electronic models start at two hundred dollars, which is not that cheap. But in most cases, many of the proposed capabilities of professional equipment will not be needed, so you can get by with a homemade design. A homemade level will cost tens of times less, and you will need available materials to assemble it.

What can a laser and optical level be made from?

There are two types of devices:

optical;
laser.

Optical levels have a system of prisms through which light rays pass and draw images by being reflected from the mirror surface.

Laser levels work thanks to a special emitter installed on several planes.

To independently model a device with a laser, use a special pointer, a bubble level, a block of wood, a piece of rubber, a plywood sheet, a container filled with water, polystyrene foam and other materials.

To independently model an optical device, take glue, corrugated plastic, a jigsaw and metalworking tools.

Power supply

Some of the work is done. Now the homemade device must be provided with electric current. The power supply of a standard diode should be 3V, and the flow rate should be up to 400 mA. These values may vary depending on how fast the disk is written.

There are 2 ways of eating, each of which has advantages and disadvantages. However, each one is powered by a battery(s).

First option

A distinctive feature of the first method is voltage regulation using a resistor. The laser does not require high power. So, the components of a drive with a write speed of 16X will need 200 mA. You can increase this value to a maximum of 300 mA, otherwise there is a possibility of damaging the crystal and forgetting about the homemade laser. The main advantages of this method are the reliability of the product and ease of manufacture. The main disadvantage is possible problems with the placement of batteries.

Second way

It will be more difficult to create a laser using this option. In addition, the finished device is more suitable for stationary placement. The point is the driver (LM-317 chip), which is a board for creating a certain power, as well as limiting the electric current.

As you can see in the diagram, to create a laser you will need:

Directly, the LM-317 chip.
2 resistors at 10 ohms.
1 variable resistor per 100 Ohm.
1 diode
100 µF capacitor.

Regardless of the environment as well as the power source, the driver will maintain 7V power.

Laser-based level and level design

Laser levels and levels use the principle of directly indicating a target - a point or line on a surface. They can be tracked directly (in relatively low light) or through the eyepiece of the device.

Device design features

The device is compact and ergonomic. It can be easily placed in a pocket, mounting case or bag. The case is equipped with fastening elements. They may be:

magnet;
fastening straps;
tripod.

The beam projected onto the marking surface is constructed along a plane or in a direction. Construction levels, used to indicate a certain direction, produce a projection in the form of a point. Devices for marking a plane are equipped with a special type of optical instrument that turns the beam into a straight line. Levels are divided into types:

Rotary devices, due to rotation around their axis, are capable of producing a clear line (used when pouring floors and constructing ceilings);
positional levels consist of 2 laser radiation sources to create a visible plane (used during finishing work indoors);
self-leveling (can emit up to 5 beams and are equipped with a sight in the form of a simple cross and pendulums located inside the device).

The price of the presented equipment is several times higher than the cost of a conventional level based on liquid and air bubble.