Machine for processing glass edges: drawings, principle of operation

Polishing car glass from scratches yourself

Often, the windshield is subject to deformation more often than others. At least once in a while, every driver has had to build a car that requires the entire surface of the windshield to be streaked with cracks. Usually such damage remains after being hit by a huge stone.

In case of serious damage, all that remains is to replace it. Our client is left with other measures that will simply be ineffective, but with shallow scratches there is an option to cope with polishing. When this procedure is completed, your glass will become transparent again, you might think you just got your car yesterday.

Machine for processing glass edges: drawings, principle of operation

Why and in what cases do you need to grind the ends of the glass?

If you are familiar with glass cutting, then you probably know that after operations with a glass cutter, the cut part has sharp, traumatic edges, and has an unpresentable appearance. After this, the resulting parts can be used without being enclosed in any frame - for example, for wall mirrors, glass doors, cabinet shelves, display cases, table tops.

Therefore, the edge of the glass must be processed. This process is familiar to many - we could sharpen, grind, grind steel, wood, and plastic parts using abrasive sanding wheels of various types.

The ends of the glass are processed in the same way. However, this material differs from others in its specific structure and properties; it is harder and more fragile.

Therefore, it must be processed with a tool specially designed for this purpose.

In most cases, glass is treated with diamond.

The machine itself is an emery machine with a specific design.

Damage classification

For all types of damage there is a better way to play snowballs with it. It is for this reason that the first thing you need to start performing your functions with is determining the degree of damage. Only then can you easily choose the best recovery method. Our client is left with scratches that can be divided into the following types:

1. Small scratches. You won't notice these right away. However, on a sunny day their presence makes driving very stressful. They usually occur when exposed to sand. Even hard napkins will be a prerequisite for their occurrence. An obvious sign is dull glass.
2. Average damage. The depth of scratches increases to 300 microns. They are simply defined for touching. Because special measuring equipment is very expensive, there is an old reliable method for finding such scratches. Just try to pick them up with your fingernail; if you succeed, that means you've found them.
3. Serious damage. They are simply visible to the naked eye. You will not perform any manipulations for the search.

Based on the damage, the type of car glass polishing is selected. In this way, better results are achieved at low costs.

Read also: Who has the right to take electricity meter readings

Components and parts of a direct grinding machine

1. Bed.

For its manufacture, a metal corner 50x50x4 was used.

2. Desk.

To get a desktop, we took a frame from a metal corner 25x25x3. A sheet of cellular polycarbonate with dimensions of approximately 1000x600 is fixed to the frame, on which a strip of carpet is fixed.

To be able to process the straight edges of the glass, we attach a special ruler separately.

3. Machine drive.

The drive is an asynchronous 3-phase AC motor, it is mounted vertically on the frame. Engine power: 2.2 kW, 1500 rpm.

4. Drive on/off system.

The block with the “Start/Stop” button and the engine starter is enclosed in a sealed housing and fixed in the upper part of the frame, above the working space of our device. The system must be grounded.

We definitely pay attention to safety precautions. The coolant used to operate the machine is water. Therefore, it is necessary to reliably insulate electrical components so that water does not get into them, and so that the person working on the machine is not shocked by electric shock.

5. Work unit.

The working unit is a planar washer mounted on the shaft of an electric motor. An abrasive diamond wheel is attached to it.

The plan washer is made in the form of a flange with a thrust flange. We put the circle on the plan washer and press it with a clamping ring with six holes for M6 bolts - the plan washer has threaded holes for them. We put the plan washer on the motor shaft (there is a hole with an M6 thread on the shaft) and clamp it with a washer and a bolt. Since the force on the plan washer is small, a key is not used.

6. Cooling.

The device uses an open cooling system in the form of a container (tub) 1500x400x350. They are welded from sheet metal 2 mm thick, and have a half-cover on which a pump from a 1K62 lathe is mounted. From the pump, water for cooling flows through a rubber hose to the grinding wheel to the place where the part is processed.

We create another tool for stained glass making - a homemade glass breaker from pliers

When working with glass, you cannot do without cutting out small elements with curved edges. These can be elements of stained glass, work using the fusing technique - sintering colored glass in a special furnace, hot molding of glass.

Cutting glass, both in the case of a straight and in the case of a curved cut, is approximately the same - the first stage, on a clean and dry surface of the glass, a continuous scratch is made in the right place from edge to edge of the glass. Diamond edge or carbide glass cutter roller. It is recommended to lightly lubricate the glass surface at the site of the scratch with kerosene; however, glass cutters equipped with a special unit that supplies an oil-kerosene mixture from a container in the handle of the glass cutter directly to the carbide roller have become widespread recently. In the manner of a ballpoint pen. Yes, an important point - when applying a scratch, a sheet or piece of glass should be kept on a flat, slightly elastic surface. In glass workshops, they traditionally use a table for this purpose, the lid of which is covered with thick felt. At home, for infrequent work, you can use a thick layer of newspapers on a flat surface.

So, a scratch has been made on the glass, and an important and very crucial moment comes - breaking the glass. Often, when cutting glass of more or less significant thickness, lightly tapping the back side of the glass, opposite the scratch, causes a crack to form.

There are also special tools that allow you to apply force “to break” exactly in a certain place. For example, a ceramic tile breaker, which is part of a portable tile cutter. The ceramic tile is placed on a special edge of the breaker, opposite the scratch made with a carbide roller, a special stop equipped with a lever for greater force presses on the surface of the tile, on both sides of the cut - crack! It is done.

There is also a miniature, pocket-sized version of this cutter-breaker. Designed for cutting ceramic tiles. It has all the features of an “adult” version - a carbide cutting wheel and a breaker. The cost and ease of use are much lower.

This is, one might say, a prototype. Let's move on to more highly specialized tools. Precisely for breaking glass. In the second stage of cutting, a separate glass cutter is used to apply the scratch.

A simple breaker for thick, “display” glass. The design is powerful, the stops are spaced quite widely, they are special “navels” made of plastic, and seem to be replaceable. The handles are spring-loaded and automatically return to the fully open position. There is no depth limiter for breaking.

Somewhat complicated breakers for thick glass.

They are arranged slightly differently, the main difference is the lever system in the hinge unit, which allows you to reduce the required force on the handles - in the application form when entering glass cutting, you can omit the “physical training” column. They cost more than ordinary ones, by more than an order of magnitude.

And finally, the most suitable for thin (3 mm thick) colored stained glass, the breaker option. Elegant design, very similar to pliers. The application of multidirectional force is ensured by the design of the jaws - they are slightly wider than usual and have a curved shape. The tool, unlike its colleague above, does not have a return spring, but is equipped with a breaking depth regulator. This is to break the glass, not crush it into dust. The kit includes silicone caps for the sponges to prevent the iron from grinding on the glass and leaving scratches. The caps, according to reviews from stained glass workers, fray quite quickly; instead, the sponges are wrapped loosely with adhesive tape or paper tape. They also don't last long, but are inexpensive and easy to replace. There is a “sight” on the top jaw.

Despite the moderate cost, the pliers turned out to be quite good and performed their direct, grasping-biting duties for some time. But the time has come for glass, the materials have been collected, tools, basically, too, a breaker was needed and was even found on my beloved and dear AliExpress. By the way, at a very affordable price, we must pay tribute to the descendants of Confucius and Lao Tzu. However, there was no strength to wait more than a month for the parcel to reach our wilderness, so I had to take up a file.

What was used in the work.

Tools.

A set of metalworking tools, I used an electric sharpener, a drilling machine, a small angle grinder (grinder) with corundum disks of different thicknesses. Bench vice. Small gas torch for soldering.

Materials.

In addition to experimental pliers, solder and flux for torch soldering, M5 hardware, some bronze pieces of iron from the box with “plumbing” trash.

Well, you can't escape fate. The experimental pliers were undressed - I cut off the plastic handles with a sharp knife, without them it was somehow much, hmm... more elegant. Handles are good for a lot of effort and won’t be needed here on thin stained glass. You can then put pieces of thermal tube of suitable thickness on the handles.

As long as the forces applied to the handles are not too great, you can significantly lighten the plier blank by sanding off all the excess. On the outside, these are reinforcing ribs. I sanded them down using sandpaper with a coarse-grained stone, and finally smoothed them out a little on a smaller stone.

Initially, I drilled a hole for the thread and tried to cut M5, but the tap was very tight and I was afraid to break it. I slightly drilled the hole and used a magic file to create a platform where it would be convenient to solder the nut.

I soldered the nut with a gas torch, carefully so that the solder did not flow into the thread. Residues of acid flux are washed off with warm water and a hard brush. It is convenient to use an old toothbrush. Dry the workpiece on the stove (a central heating radiator is not suitable). Unsightly solder deposits that occur can be removed with a needle file or a small file.

Continued to relieve the pliers. With an unwavering hand, a small “grinder.” I clamped one handle in a vice, “patient, open your mouth wider,” and got ready to go into battle. Of course with headphones and glasses on your head.

I left it a little thick on the sides - and the weight was lighter and you could work further from the edge. Well, the old-fashioned wire cutters and notches would look somewhat out of place on a new tool. The rule of good plumbing practice is to dull the sharp edges.

It's time for curved lips. They should be slightly wider than pliers (lever) and curved, smiling.

Having sorted through my small pieces of hardware, in the “plumbing” trash I found this thing - a plumbing adapter with offset axes, for adjusting the center distance when installing “mixers”. Bronze, I guess.

The smaller cylinder fits perfectly into the larger one and quite tightly. The entire assembly fits quite comfortably on the jaws of the pliers. It’s decided – we’ll make sponges out of them. Bronze is easily soldered and generally processed, is not too hard and is guaranteed not to scratch glass. True, the thread on the inner cylinder will have to be left - if you grind it off, it will be too thin.

I made blanks for the sponges - I sawed off the bottoms with a metal hacksaw, and smoothed the edges on a block with medium-sized sandpaper.

I adjusted the jaws with a grinder so that they would fit more closely to my “rings of omnipotence”, cleaned the corresponding contacting surfaces with sandpaper, lubricated them with flux paste and clamped them in the “working” position. I pulled the handles of the former pliers together with a string, by one of the handles, and clamped them in a vice, in a position convenient for soldering. I lit the burner, warmed it up, and soldered it. Here, too, you should act without fanaticism and avoid excess solder, otherwise it tends to flow where it shouldn’t and solder everything to death.

Using a hacksaw, holding the almost finished tool in a vice, we saw off the excess from the rings. First, of course, by marking them. Scribbler, felt-tip pen, nail. As usual, we dull the sharp edges and file off the excess solder. We wash off the remaining flux in warm water with a brush or toothbrush and dry it.

I selected a screw of the appropriate length and adjusted the stop-limiter. I tried it on 3 mm window glass. What can I say - it works like a charm. It is very convenient with the new tool to cut off small, frankly small and intricately shaped pieces. Yes, in the latter case, the curved cut should be broken from both ends in two steps - the result is more stable and predictable. By pressing a breaker on the cut from one edge, we achieve the formation of a short crack, a couple of centimeters in size, repeat the same on the other edge, maybe a little stronger. That's it, a piece of glass breaks off along the cut line.

Later, already during intensive regular work, I placed a piece of black thermal tube on the handles, and wrapped the jaws in several layers of transparent tape - so as not to grind on the glass. The adhesive tape wears out over time, but replacing it is a piece of cake.

Source

We polish glass with ease - it couldn't be easier.

Sometimes it becomes necessary to remove scratches from glass, and many people have no idea what means and how to do this. I have sanded and polished glass many times, and not only glass, but also plastic and plexiglass. The principle of operation is the same everywhere, so let’s figure out what is needed for this and how much it costs.

First, we need to have a tool with which we will polish and grind the glass. After all, removing a scratch from glass means “removing” it, polishing it, so to speak. Therefore, it is necessary to use abrasive materials. But first you need a power tool. If the area from which you need to remove scratches is large (at least 50*50 cm), then you need to have an angle grinder with adjustable speed. If less, then a mini-drill will suffice; this is a tool better known as an engraving machine. You can read about the professional model here.

So, we have a power tool, now we need to purchase attachments for it and diamond paste.

Nozzles If the scratches on the glass are shallow, then it is quite possible to remove them without abrasive attachments; just a felt wheel will be enough. I remember we were removing scratches from the glass of a wristwatch; we only needed one felt tip on the engraver and a little bit of diamond paste. By the way, you can look at the photo of the engraver attachments.

If you are removing scratches over a large area, you will need attachments for the grinder. These can be like turtles (AGShK) - if the scratches are very deep, or again a felt circle on which diamond paste will be applied. You can read about diamond flexible discs here; they are also used for grinding granite and marble. Well, glass can also be processed with them.

Diamond paste is a necessary tool for grinding and polishing glass, plastic or plexiglass. It is inexpensive, about 80-100 rubles for a small jar, which will last for a very long time, since it is consumed slowly. By the way, you can also try polishing with GOI paste, which has several types of grain.

When grinding and polishing glass, it is necessary to maintain a certain speed of rotation of the tool, as well as pressure force. Or rather, it’s better not to put pressure on the glass at all; the weight of the power tool is quite enough. It is better to keep the speed of revolutions low, on an angle grinder with adjustment - 1 or 2 position of the regulator. The engraving machine is more resourceful, so set it to the lowest possible setting.

Start polishing the scratches from the edges, gradually moving towards the center; you should not drive quickly, do everything slowly. Polishing glass is a slow procedure; it may take more than one hour to remove one scratch of a couple of centimeters. So be patient.

Source: https://bezhelme.ru/instruktsii/kak-ubrat-tsarapinyi-so-stekla-shlifuem-i-poliruem-steklo/

How small scratches appear

Some drivers think that if they take care of their own car and drive very carefully, this will save their car from damage. For the most part, careful driving and timely service procedures really help protect your vehicle from various damages. Unfortunately, it is impossible to insure yourself against everything.

Dust under the wipers causes your glass to lose its former shine and will need polishing. Not only, for you at least once, but I had to clean the frost off the glass. Scratches that remain after this procedure cannot be corrected with an ordinary cloth. There are a number of reasons that lead to the need to polish car glass from scratches, among the main ones:

• small stones flying at high speed into the windshield of a car;
• abrasives used for washing;
• improper care;
• wipe with a rough dry cloth.

This is by no means a complete list of the damage that can be caused by both accidental incidents and incorrect care. The loss of transparency and the occurrence of deep scratches are always a pattern. After a certain number of years, your car glass will need to be polished. But this procedure is not at all as ordinary as it seems.

In order to return the car glass to its former transparency, it is necessary not only to spend hours, but also to take this procedure responsibly. It consists of a number of steps, at the same time it is necessary to use only authorized tools.

Grinding and polishing glass at home

In order to properly process the glass edge, it is necessary to sequentially carry out two types of work - grinding followed by polishing.

To work you will need:

• grinder or drill (necessarily with adjustable speed);

• waterproof grinding wheels with varying degrees of grit;

• felt or felt circles for polishing;

• cerium oxide for polishing (you can buy it here - https://zm-tools.ru).

What do you need to know before starting work?

Cutting and processing of glass takes place in three stages: cutting itself, grinding and polishing. It is produced on special machines, but you can also perform this task at home using improvised tools. The glass edge processing machine is used for mass production, such as furniture, retail displays, aquariums, and so on.

Although, if there is one, this will simplify and speed up the processing process, the work will be more qualitative, since such machines have a very low degree of error in operation.

Processing the edge of glass with your own hands will require the following tools: a glass cutter, a ruler, an electric drill (an angle grinder is also suitable), an attachment for grinding wheels, grinding wheels of different grain sizes. Grinding requires low speeds so as not to overheat the material, so a drill or grinder with adjustable rotation speed is required.

Sanding wheels should be made of waterproof sandpaper. Wetting the edge is necessary to prevent glass dust from entering the pulmonary tract. It is very harmful and cannot be eliminated from the body. Glass processing tools can be purchased at any hardware store, so it won’t take a lot of time and effort to find one.

Glass edge polishing

In order for the edge to become transparent and perfectly smooth, it must be properly polished. For this purpose, use a special felt or felt circle.

Apply a paste made from cerium oxide and water (the consistency is liquid sour cream) to the polishing wheel and carefully polish the glass at low speed. Then we gradually increase the speed to 1500 - 1800.

Polishing must be continued until the edge becomes shiny and transparent.

In this simple way you can process the edge of glass at home.

Source: https://remontyes.ru/4548-obrabotka-kromki-stekla-v-domashnih-usloviyah.html

Features of use

In addition to Bohle, other brands also produce quick-cutters for glass, among which the most famous is the South Korean company K-Star (however, Chinese-made tools are also offered for sale). Such products are characterized by a significantly lower price, but do not differ in the accuracy of assembly of the guide heads, which is why closer to the edge of the cut there may be a divergence from the initially specified direction of movement by 2...4 mm. Chinese quick-cutters begin to wobble faster than South Korean ones.

The choice of the quick cutter model is made according to the largest width of the glass being cut. Since the tool in question for cutting glass can be placed on either of the two sides of the sheet, then upon approximately reaching the middle of the cut length, the quick cutter can be turned 180º, installing it on the opposite edge, then continue the previous trajectory of movement of the working head, or use a measuring ruler , start a new cut. The rigidity of the measuring ruler guarantees almost complete coincidence of the two cutting lines. Thus, the length of the device rod should only slightly exceed the maximum cutting length. For example, for a cut 1200 mm long, you will need a quick cutter for glass with a rod length of 650 mm or more.

With constant use, such glass cutters require proper maintenance. Most often, it is necessary to improve the supply of lubricating fluid (for this it is recommended to slightly extend the wick), monitor the condition of the guides (play in the rollers of more than 0.1...0.2 mm is unacceptable), and thoroughly clean the surface of the measuring rod from dust and dirt.

Source: proinstrumentinfo.ru

How to make a grinding machine with your own hands: instructions with step-by-step photos

The cost of a factory-made grinding machine is quite high. If you can't afford a power tool, you can try making one yourself. On such a machine it will be possible not only to grind wooden workpieces, but also to sharpen the tool. There are three types of grinding machines you can assemble with your own hands: belt, disk and drum.

Recommendations:

• When you do finishing work, it is better to use old tools, as their surface deteriorates greatly.
• Instead of a whetstone, you can use a block of wood with sandpaper attached to it.
• Initially, tools with a coarse-grained surface are used, then they switch to a fine-grained one.
• Do not rush, as slipping of the tool may cause deep scratches on the surface.

Option for manufacturing a band press

To assemble a belt-type grinding machine, you will need an electric motor, a durable frame and rollers on which the belt will rotate. Be sure to have a drawing or detailed diagram on hand indicating all components and dimensions. We offer an example of a diagram of a machine with a wooden bed in the photo.

The following photo shows the finished design of the machine. In this embodiment, the arrangement of the three working shafts is designed so that the moving belt forms a vertical grinding plane. A belt drive is used as a drive.

The machine design can use four rollers. One of them is the leading one and is mounted directly on the electric motor shaft. The photo shows an example of such a design. Installing four rollers allows you to get two grinding planes: horizontal and vertical.

The wooden frame smoothes out the vibration of a running electric motor, however, wood is short-lived. It is optimal to cut a workpiece measuring 50x18 cm from steel 2 cm thick. One edge of the frame is made perfectly flat in order to attach a platform for the electric motor to it. For the next part, you will need steel 1 cm thick. The area is cut out 18x16 cm in size, and then secured to the frame with a bolted connection.

A large electric motor power is not needed for such a machine. A motor from an old washing machine will do. If greater productivity of the grinding machine is required, then it is advisable to find an electric motor with a shaft speed of 1500 rpm with a power of 2.5 to 3 kW. High-quality grinding can be achieved by moving the sanding belt at a speed of 20 m/s. To achieve such parameters, working drums with a diameter of 20 cm are used. If you make the rollers thinner, you will have to reduce the speed of the motor shaft using a gearbox, which is extremely inconvenient.

The drive drum can be mounted on the motor shaft. If this option is not suitable, a separate unit is made. The drive shaft with bearings is fixed to the frame. A belt drive pulley is installed at this end, and a drive drum is installed at the other end. Then a pulley is also mounted on the electric motor shaft and a V-belt is put on. The driven rollers rotate freely on bearings.

The belt drive pulleys will have to be turned on a lathe, and the rollers can be made from square pieces of chipboard measuring 20x20 cm. The plates are stacked on top of each other until a total thickness of 24 cm is obtained. A hole is drilled in the center of the square plates, a threaded pin is inserted and the plates are pulled together tightly on both sides with nuts. The square blank is machined to form a drum with a diameter of 20 cm.

When grooving the roller, a thickening is provided in its central part. In relation to the edges of the drum, the difference should be 3 mm. Due to the thickening, the belt will not move off the rollers. The surface of the wooden drum is covered with rubber. An old bicycle tube will do. Rubber will prevent the belt from slipping on rollers.

To make a sanding belt, cloth-based sandpaper is suitable. You can cut a solid strip of the required length, the edges of which are glued end-to-end. If there is no long strip of sandpaper, cut a strip of durable fabric and sew it into a ring. The sandpaper is cut into rectangles and then glued onto a strip of fabric. When making a sanding belt, it is important to choose high-quality glue so that the sandpaper does not peel off.

Frosty pattern on glass

In a bathroom or hallway, you can create an intimate atmosphere with a layer of glass that reduces exposure to strong sunlight. This effect is achieved by painting a “frosty” pattern on glass with spray paint. To create a decorative pattern, paint is sprayed onto a stencil glued to the glass, then the stencil is removed. You can also remove the annoying pattern itself using a glaze thinner or a razor blade.

A simplified version of “frosty” patterns can be made using a cut out snowflake stencil of any shape and diluted white toothpaste, without colored stripes. After removing the stencil, it turns out that the finer the splashes, the more the pattern on the glass will look “frosty.” In spring, such patterns can be removed much easier than paint designs.

Manufacturing of disc grinding machine

The disk machine is considered the easiest to manufacture. The principle of its operation resembles an ordinary electric emery. Assembly of the grinding machine is presented in instructions with step-by-step photos:

• The power plant of the machine is a three-phase electric motor. This choice is not accidental, since changing the phase when connecting allows you to organize reverse. The motor can be connected to a 220 V network via capacitors.

• The working disk is cut out of plywood 1.5 cm thick. Two identical blanks are glued together. The result is a disk 3 cm thick. A hole is drilled strictly in the center, the diameter of which is equal to the thickness of the electric motor shaft.

• To assemble the frame, it is better to use an edged board, and the guides and work table are cut out of 1.5 cm thick plywood. Wood is better suited for making the machine than metal. Wood dampens engine vibrations.

• The working disc can be used for grinding and even sharpening. It is important to choose the right abrasive materials. They must be Velcro and fit for their purpose. If you need to grind a product made of stone or granite, stick a “Turtle” diamond wheel onto the working disc.

• To sand a wooden workpiece, glue a circle of sandpaper to the working disk.

• There are similar Velcro circles for metal. This disc can be used to sharpen knives, axes and other tools.

When designing a disc sander, it is important to consider safety. The rotating working disk is covered with a protective arch on top. An adjustable heel is provided on the work table, which serves as a stop for the workpiece.

The table top of the machine should not be varnished or painted. Over time, an unevenly worn coating will create difficulties in moving the workpiece being processed.

Methods for eliminating damage of varying degrees of complexity

Based on the severity of the damage caused to the car glass, an appropriate method of eliminating the defect is selected. To remove small scratches, simply polish using an abrasive material. In this case, a layer no thicker than a textbook micron is removed. This is enough to return the surface to its original appearance.

Today we are talking about the edges of mirrors, for example, euro-edging is professional edge processing, otherwise grinding and, in addition to this work, polishing the end of a new mirror. The manufacturer also offers straight and shaped edges, informing the buyer in advance that processing the edge of any glass can significantly reduce residual stresses inside the glass, reducing the likelihood of large cracks and multiple chips during installation, as well as addressing the issue of expanding the possibility of modernization product by changing the design.

The processed edge of the mirror gives the glass product a presentable appearance, clearly emphasizing both its individuality and safety. Polished Euroedge has long been used in furniture production and in the manufacture of countertops, large and small partitions, mirrored steps, glass doors, and so on.

Making a drum machine for sanding boards

To make a drum machine, a frame is assembled. You will need hardwood timber. An electric motor with a pulley is attached to the bottom of the frame. A drum with bearings will come from a used conveyor. The sandpaper is cut into strips and wound tightly end-to-end on the work roller. Along the edges of the drum, the paper is secured with clamps.

The work roller is attached to the frame from above. The machine table top will be located under it. A pulley is mounted on the drum shaft and a belt drive with a motor is created. The tabletop is made adjustable with screws so that you can sand boards of different thicknesses. To avoid vibrations of the machine, it is advisable to fix the legs of the bed to the floor.

If you try and make an effort, then any unit considered will work no worse than a factory-made grinding machine.

Source: https://instrumentiks.ru/sovety/kak-sdelat-shlifovalnyi-stanok-svoimi-rukami

Design

Externally, the quick cutter for glass, developed half a century ago by the German company Bohle, really looks like a mop: a long blade with a handle in the middle. However, this is where the similarities end.

Bohle glass cutters are designed for direct cutting of glass sheets of considerable size - up to 3500 mm. They include:

1. measuring ruler;
2. a working head moving along it;
3. bearing units responsible for directional accuracy;
4. replaceable block with cutting rollers, the number of which varies depending on the length of the cut;
5. separation zone lubrication system;
6. handle-bar.

Such instruments are produced in a block design, differing in the width of the measuring ruler and the number of rollers. The size of the replacement head is selected based on the largest glass thickness. When working on a table, such devices for cutting glass are equipped with special runners with which the quick cutter is securely fixed to the supporting plane. To increase cutting productivity, special versions of high-speed cutters are also produced, which have the ability to mount several cutting heads. This tool is used in industrial workshops and areas, and is designed for mass cutting of glass along a rectilinear closed contour. For short cuts, quick cutters with a similar operating principle are used.