Leather stepper
If you plan to hand sew parts of a thick leather product, you will need to first punch holes in the leather.
A step-by-step hole punch will do the best job for this task. In its shape, it is similar to a fork, the tines of which have a special diamond shape. Just decide in advance on the size of these teeth, and if necessary, place them to the hole at an angle of 45 degrees. With skill, you can not only use a hole punch to mark a line for a straight seam, but even stitch a leather product. To prepare a leather product for a Mexican braid or braid, you can make a step-by-step hole punch, the teeth of which are arranged diagonally. You can also use it to punch holes in suede and leather, the thickness of which is no more than 5 millimeters.
Revolver punch
To make braiding, it is better to use a revolver-type hole punch; you can also make it yourself. In appearance, it is very similar to rings for working with metal, only on its head you will need to place a drum that has 6 sharpened cones of different sizes, from 1.4 to 5 millimeters. In order to make a hole, a piece of leather will need to be inserted between the anvil and the punch, and squeezed with force. This way you will get a hole of the required diameter.
These durable devices can be made from stainless steel with a brass anvil and a compression spring, replaceable steel punches, which have a lifetime warranty. It is only important to take into account the recommendations regarding the thickness of leather products.
About other equipment for bending metal edges
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????- master class with step-by-step instructions for doing it yourself. tips and simple diagrams for beginners + the best photo reviews A homemade edge bender for body repair can also be with a pneumatic drive. Pneumatic edge benders are in demand among tinsmiths. The principle of operation is to create a pressure of up to 6.2 bar, due to pneumatic cylinders and beam rotation. It can be used with metal thicknesses up to 1.2 mm, and the resulting edge width can be up to 12 mm. Air consumption 113 l/min.
Automatic edge benders can be purchased at retail. The price is reasonable and the device is simple. It is not necessary to have experience when using equipment in repairs. The hole punch-edge bender is popular because it can be used to simultaneously bend the edge of a metal and make a hole with precision.
How the tool works
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In appearance, it resembles ordinary pliers, but unlike the latter, it forms U-shaped holes. The tool is suitable for both vinyl and aluminum slats.
The excess part of the plank is cut off with a circular saw or grinder - this option is more suitable for siding than metal scissors. Then the required number of notches are made in the area using a punch. It is necessary to ensure that the number of holes and the distance between them coincide with the slots on the factory material. The photo shows the SL5 model.
How to replace the punch during installation?
Installing siding without a punch is quite possible. Professional devices rarely end up in the hands of a home craftsman, since they are hefty in cost, they are designed for long-term continuous work, and all this is simply not needed by someone who is cladding the facade of his own building.
So there are quite a lot of ways to do without a tool. What to replace it with during installation?
Use a piece of ordinary steel pipe with a diameter of 10 mm. The end of the pipe is flattened on an anvil in order to obtain a narrow oval hole. Its edges are sanded down to give them the desired sharpness. This DIY siding punch works quite well with vinyl slats.
The bar is placed on a hard surface, preferably on a work table, the end of the flattened pipe is installed vertically and pressed into the surface of the lamellas with a hammer. The edges cut through the material, and the output is the required slot. This process is much less pleasant than using a special tool, however, the cost of a self-made cutter is much lower. Despite the somewhat atypical shape of the holes, they cope with their role - they ensure snapping of the lamellas.
In the video, a DIY notch punch for siding demonstrates its functionality.
This material is devoted to how to work with siding. We are going to get acquainted with the technology of finishing facades with vinyl siding and the tools used for this purpose. So let's get started.
Set of tools for siding.
Types of flower beds made from tires
To create flower beds from tires with your own hands, you do not need any special experience or knowledge. The most important thing is to have the necessary tools at hand and know the basic information.
According to the type of design, tire flower beds are:
Round flower beds made from wheels are the easiest option to implement. All that is required to organize a flower garden is to take tires, paint them in any colors, fill them with soil and plant the plants.
Interesting. To get an interesting composition from a material such as a tire, you can paint the wheel material in bright colors and, stacking it on top of each other, form high flower beds.
As for multi-level structures, they are created from tires of various diameters. They are placed on top of each other according to the principle of a toy pyramid (in order of decreasing size) and filled with soil. This design is perfect for planting hanging plants.
Multi-level tire construction
Hanging flower beds made from tires can be attached in different ways: to a pipe, with chains or a rope to a tree branch, etc. Just first remember to cover the bottom of the improvised flowerpot with some material.
Punch for eyelets: description, scope of application
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To install eyelets, round holes of a certain diameter are required, which are very difficult to make at home with improvised tools. Experience from industries where accessories are used in the production of footwear, printing, textile products and leather goods came to the rescue.
The main purpose of the grommet is to protect the edges of the hole from destruction.
Large companies use the grommet stapler as a tool for filing documents, and the rivets are often decorated with corporate symbols. Industrial enterprises use punches for grommets. Today, many companies offer for sale variants of punches for home use. This hole punch allows you to solve several problems at once: it perforates the material, bends its edges, so no additional processing of the edges is required.
Compatibility with instruments is checked individually each time.
There are the following types of punches for eyelets:
- manual;
- semi-automatic;
- automatic.
The choice of tool for installing grommets depends on what products you want to install.
Let's try to figure out which option you should choose.
It is important to understand the material, how strong the work will be, what the grommet itself will be made of, its shape and range of sizes. The choice of ring size will depend on the functional load of the product
Products come in different colors, shapes and materials.
The variability of the grommet itself will also affect the choice; you can use a metal version made of brass or steel, wood, plastic, coated or uncoated, of various shapes and sizes. Regardless of the type and shape, the fittings consist of two components: a bushing and a washer, so the principle of operation of the punch is approximately the same everywhere.
A hole is made with a punch, a sleeve and washer are applied and secured with a tool.
At the same time, the manual version of the hole punch is in great demand due to its low cost and ease of use in the original version. Usually it includes a punch, with the help of which the hole itself is made directly, a matrix into which the sleeve and washer are inserted, and embossing, by pressing which they are fixed components of the eyelet on the material.
Experts recommend purchasing devices in whole sets, but using universal, multifunctional ones is no less convenient.
Disadvantages of the manual option:
- for different grommet options you will need appropriate attachments for the embossing;
- with a high density of the material used, the process of piercing the material is labor-intensive;
- Not suitable for leather goods.
For “small things”, a hand tool with capabilities limited in terms of the size of the installed products is suitable.
Pros:
- availability;
- use at home.
In order for any eyelet installer to last as long as possible, it must be kept clean, visually inspected periodically, and lubricated with machine oil.
A semi-automatic hole punch is suitable for working with materials of increased strength, since the hole itself is punched automatically by the sharp edge of the sleeve itself
If we choose this option, then the choice of the eyelets themselves is especially important.
Hole punch eyelets must have a sharp edge.
Minuses:
Purchasing specialized eyelets.
Pros:
- versatility (suitable even for working with tarpaulins);
- availability;
- minimum effort;
- performance.
Installation pliers are not universal - the clamp for eyelets and blocks of different sizes is selected individually.
In industrial production, automatic punches are used.
Pros:
versatility in materials and eyelet sizes.
High performance.
- minuses:
- high price;
- weight and dimensions of the punch.
For large eyelets you will need more serious equipment.
Shoes for Dolls. Tool. Part 1
Today I will show you my small arsenal for making doll shoes, which has recently been replenished with new devices. I share my impressions.
So, what do you need to have if you decide to make doll shoes with your own hands? 1. If you are making shoes on a last, these are the lasts of the required size and shape. A detailed description of what, for what, for whom, from what and why is a topic for a separate discussion. 2. A backing for stretching the workpiece onto the block. It should be a fairly soft and thick base that can be pierced with a needle and still hold its shape. I use a cork board, these can always be found in Fix Price stores. On such a plate it is easy to fix the block with the workpiece with pins so that it dries to the desired shape. 3. Metal pins . Here it is advisable to find not just tailor’s pins, but strong, rigid ones and with a round head. Ordinary pins quickly fail, bend, heads fly off, because they have to deal with thick skin. So far I have found a solution in quilting pins. Maybe try construction ones? Just not very thick, otherwise they will leave holes.
4. Shilo . This is an absolutely necessary tool. They can make holes, smooth a clear edge of the fold at the border of the upper and the insole, distribute glue evenly over the surface, apply tiny drops of glue to the overlap seam allowances. Previously, I only punched all the holes with an awl, but now I use a punch. I don’t use a knocked down awl, there’s no need.
5. Wooden stick . For what? These sticks have 2 ends: sharp and oblique. They are very convenient for shaping the fold of the leather when you pull the upper part onto the block, pressing the glued areas. They do not scratch or injure the skin, as they are made of soft wood. Using the beveled end, I press down the excess leather around the pad, forming a fold. The sharp end can be used to distribute glue and coat small areas of seams. Again, get them at Fix Price (manicure sticks). 6. Silver (or gold) rod for marking the skin. I also recommend purchasing it. It makes it very easy to transfer patterns onto the skin and any markings. Easily removed with a rubber band or washed off with water. 7. Rubber for leather. As the name implies, it is a piece of natural rubber. Used to remove traces of rod markings on leather/suede, traces of glue, to clean and give suede a beautiful look. 8. Leather scissors . There are many varieties of such scissors; the choice is a matter of taste and convenience. My scissors cut both thick leather (3.5 mm) and shoe protection (2 mm) perfectly. If you use pads with smooth internal curves in your work, then I advise you to also purchase “curved” scissors with rounded blades. They are more convenient for cutting out concave soles and rounded parts. 9. Slicker . This is a device for grouting and polishing the edge (end) of leather. They also come in a variety of shapes and materials from which they are made. I chose a simple one, round in cross-section, made of beech. Semicircular notches allow you to polish rounded edges with different sections. After applying various cutting chemicals, they are rubbed down with a slicker. It is important to remember that the slicker movements must always be made in the same direction, so as not to lift up the pile on the edge and backbone!
10. Punchers . There are a great variety of them depending on purpose, shape, material. Conventionally, they can be divided into 4 groups: punches for structural holes, line punches, figured punches, edge punches. First of all, we will need round steel punches for punching structural holes for laces/holnitens and line punches for marking seams. If you want to decorate your shoes with perforations, then you will need figured punches. To make neat holes for laces (sometimes you don’t even need to use eyelets or blocks), to install rivets and rivets, and for finishing perforation, you need a round punch. The diameter of the punch is the diameter of the resulting hole. I have come across punches with a diameter of 0.5 mm. A punch is a metal rod with a pointed hole and a groove on one side. To punch holes for laces in shoes 5 cm along the insole, punches with a diameter of 1.5-2 mm are suitable. I use 2mm. First, we mark the holes, then we place the punch with the sharp part on the front side of the leather and hit it a couple of times. After 3-4 holes, we clean the punch from pieces of leather - push it inside the groove with something sharp, an awl, for example, and shake it out.
Using small-diameter round punches, you can make brogging - line perforation used in the manufacture of brogg boots. A line punch is used to mark stitches and punch holes for hand stitching.
I used to mark first with a tracing wheel or a twin sewing machine needle, and then punch with an awl. With a line punch, the marking process has become easier, faster and more convenient. The distance between the teeth is 3 mm - optimal for doll shoes with an insole of 5-6 cm. There are tubular punches (teeth in the form of thin pointed tubes that punch small holes), needle-shaped ones (with round teeth like needles), and there are diamond-shaped ones (the teeth do not have a round cross-section like an awl, but a diamond-shaped one, and are located diagonally).
This allows you to make holes in which the threads are located at the corners of the diamond, always in the same position, which gives an even, neat seam. The stitches are slightly diagonal if you follow the rule that the needle is always inserted into the hole on the same side of the previous stitch. In addition, the holes from the awl become a little tight on the skin, it can be difficult to find them and you have to periodically pierce them again. It's easier here. It is a pleasure to work with such a punch! My only wish to the manufacturer is to make a comfortable handle.
I purchased 2 of these diamond-shaped punches - for 2 and 4 teeth. Or you can buy the whole set: 1, 2, 4, 6 and 10 holes. But it was more convenient for me and much cheaper. These are enough for doll shoes. To decorate shoes with beautiful perforations, figured punches are used. They come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes, from 3mm to 25mm. To perforate doll shoes, you can use punches with a diameter of 3-5 mm. By combining different shapes you can create entire compositions. And with the help of punches with a diameter of over 7 mm, you can make die-cut elements of decorative leather jewelry, which are then sewn, glued or fastened with rivets/holniten, decorated with sequins and beads.
Edge punches or facings are used to form a beautiful and even shaped edge of a product, for example, a belt tongue. They are unlikely to be useful for dolls. 11. Polypropylene plate . To work with punches, we need a polypropylene backing plate. Why not wood or metal? Because on such a stove the punches do not deteriorate or become dull. Verified. 12. Mallet . To install blocks, eyelets, holniten, to punch holes with punches, as well as to nail seams and soles, tanners generally use not a hammer, but a mallet (polypropylene, rubber, or other types of plastic). There is less noise from it, the impact is softer. Sold in construction stores. 13. Pliers . It’s also a very convenient thing that makes work easier. I have small pliers with curved ends. I use them to pull out the needle if it is tight, and tighten the thread when sewing on the insole to tighten the seam better. It’s also an indispensable thing if you need to press a glued seam with force. You can find it in a craft store or a hardware store.
14. Installer of eyelets and blocks . If you are making holes for laces with eyelets or blocks, an installer is required. There are different types of installers: tearing the eyelet and not tearing it (flaring), with and without a base, with a pin in the base or in the striker. I will discuss the principle of working with installers in more detail in a separate article; this is a big topic. Let me briefly say that for myself I chose not the most budget option, but a more aesthetic one - this is an installer with a base, a pin in the striker. When using it, the block on the wrong side forms a neat ring, rather than a breaking star. The quality of installation also depends on the metal from which the blocks are made. Sometimes they flare out perfectly evenly, and sometimes they still break. The installer size must match the inside diameter of the blocks/eyelets. Available from 1 mm. I have 2 mm. Before installation, be sure to punch a hole that also corresponds to the internal diameter of the block/eyelet.
Sincerely, Orlova Maria
Calculation of the required punching force
The metal cutting process is characterized by the fact that during this process a rather complex load pattern appears, which is concentrated in the area where the punch, the material being cut and the matrix interact.
The punch is made in such a way that it does not enter the material with its entire end, but only with the outer annular part. The response comes from the matrix. Moreover, the pressure arising in the interaction zone of these three components is distributed unevenly.
In other words, during the cutting process a pair of forces arises that form a circular bending moment. Under its influence, the sheet bends. As a result of this bending, pressure is generated, which affects the punch and the edge of the matrix. In addition, it is necessary to take into account the fact that tangential forces appear under the influence of friction forces. As can be seen from the above, when punching, a non-uniform force field arises. Therefore, when carrying out calculations, a conventional value is used - shear resistance. As a result of the research, the resistance depends not only on the properties of the metal, but also on the level of hardening, the thickness of the cutting, the gaps in the punch/die pair and the speed of the cutting process.
The easiest way to have a beautiful front lawn
You've certainly seen the perfect lawn in a movie, on an alley, or perhaps on your neighbor's lawn. Those who have ever tried to grow a green area on their site will no doubt say that it is a huge amount of work. The lawn requires careful planting, care, fertilization, and watering. However, only inexperienced gardeners think this way; professionals have long known about the innovative product - liquid lawn AquaGrazz .
Tire selection
For the first trial option, you should choose a wheel taking into account the following nuances:
- old domestic rubber is hard and unyielding, it turns out worse than modern ones, especially imported ones;
- tires with heavily worn tread are thinner and softer, so they are easier to work with;
- winter tires are more pliable than summer tires and, accordingly, are better suited for this craft.
If you don’t find a suitable wheel among the available stocks, you can go to the nearest tire shop, where they will be very happy to give away a few of your choice for free. Before starting work, the wheel must be cleaned of dirt and dust. This procedure is necessary not so much for aesthetic reasons, but to ensure that the sand does not dull the instruments.
We take the desired tire and make markings on it
The work of making a flower bed on a leg includes several stages:
- marking lines for patterns;
- pattern of the workpiece;
- directly turning the tire out;
- artistic design of the product.
Marking lines
To make the pot neat and even, you need to draw lines for future cuts. To do this, you need to lay the tire horizontally and draw zigzag lines from the disc to the periphery. Externally, the design should resemble flower petals. The petals can be made sharp or rounded, thin or thick - in general, to your taste. You just need to take into account that the openwork edge will be important not only for the future bowl, but also for the leg.
Next, cut out the marked areas on the tire
You can draw lines with a marker or even chalk. There is a significant drawback when working with chalk: it is easily erased, and it may happen that during the work the markings disappear, and accordingly, inaccuracies in cutting can occur, so it is safer to make the outline with a marker.
The video below demonstrates how to make a flowerbed from a tire:
Figured cutting on the tire
Many high-quality tires, for reliability of use for their intended purpose, are reinforced with metal reinforcement - metal cord. This metal wire makes the turning process much more difficult. But there is a little trick: you can make cuts with a grinder on the outside of the tire to cut the metal cord, but at the same time preserve the integrity of the future flowerpot. Incisions should be made every ten centimeters.
This procedure should be performed carefully so as not to cut through the rubber. The fact that the metal cord has been cut will be indicated by light metal dust on the tire, smoke and sparks in the cut area upon contact with the grinder. Having seen these signs, you should not deepen the cut further, so as not to make a hole in the vase, the goal has already been achieved.
The picture shows in detail how to cut and then turn out the tire
The operation of cutting out the flowerpot pattern is carried out with a knife. The knife should be very sharp, then the vase will turn out smooth and neat. The upper part of the wheel must be completely separated from the lower part along the lines of the applied markings. This creates a bowl with a lid. The cover is held on the disk side. The result was a champignon mushroom turned upside down. This is clearly visible in the video.
Turning the tire out
The main and most labor-intensive process in the work. It requires a certain physical preparation and brute male strength. A woman is unlikely to cope with such a task. It is more convenient to do this part of the work together. It is necessary to turn the product over with the cut side down (place the champignon on the stem). Grasp the edge of the tire with a strong object, such as a crowbar or a tire iron, and begin turning the tire inside out.
Tools
What tools do professionals use when installing vinyl siding?
Scroll
| Tool | Functions |
| Scissors | Cutting panels to length and width |
| Hole cutter (perforator) | Creating oval grooves for fastening the panel to a wall or sheathing |
| Notch punch | By making a notch and bending the area in front of it, the punch forms a lock on the locally cut panel for attaching the edging of the opening or additional element |
| Panel removal hook | The hook allows you to disassemble a latched lock in one movement and remove a poorly secured or damaged panel |
This is what a siding punch looks like.
In addition, when marking and installing, you will need a tool more familiar to any builder:
- Corner, tape measure and pencil;
- Construction level and plumb line;
- Hammer and screwdriver for fastening the sheathing.
Is it necessary to use scaffolding when covering a private house with siding?
- A one-story building can be covered with stepladders;
- When the house is two or more stories high or when working alone, scaffolding, scaffolding or wide trestles are necessary. In principle, it is possible to secure a two-meter bar from a ladder; however, constantly moving it and lifting it to a height of 3 meters or more will be extremely tiring and will greatly slow down the work.
It is much more convenient to install from scaffolding.
Replacement
The price of specialized professional tools is not affordable; The installer’s desire to replace them with devices already in his collection is quite understandable.
If your plans do not include professional cladding of facades with vinyl siding, most of the equipment listed above can be found with functional analogues.
Scissors for cutting siding can be successfully replaced with metal scissors or a grinder with an abrasive wheel for stone or metal. The grinder is more practical: it gives a perfect cut even at low temperatures, when polyvinyl chloride becomes brittle;
- An improvised puncher for siding can be easily made with your own hands from a steel tube with a diameter of about 10 mm. It is enough to flatten it on an anvil or in a vice until it forms an oval shape; then the edges are sharpened using sandpaper. In order to make a hole, it is enough to place a block under the edge of the panel, attach a notch and apply a couple of blows with a light hammer;
- To connect additional elements with a panel cut in place, ordinary silicone sealant is often used. Its elasticity compensates for the slight difference in temperature expansion of the sheathing elements. High-quality sealants from reputable manufacturers (Henkel, Ceresit) are preferred: cheap compounds have weak adhesion to smooth surfaces.
The sealant in the photo evoked special sympathy from the author.
Line punches
This tool is not much different from a stepper; they are often combined into one category. A line punch for leather is usually made with round pins of small diameter, from one and a half millimeters, and a pitch between them of 5-6 mm. It is used for punching not only leather, but also cardboard, fabric and other materials. The strikers are screwed into the base and can be replaced with spare ones if they break.
When working, be sure to use a backing made of soft wood or rubber.
There are pruning-type punches for making holes in thick or glued leather, in which the teeth are located with their tips facing each other. The holes are smooth on both the front and back sides of the material being punched. Overlays with teeth are installed on threaded connections.
How to paint wheels for a flower bed
When the structure is ready, all that remains is to paint it. To do this, the surface is completely degreased (for example, with acetone or white spirit) and allowed to dry.
The surface can be additionally primed, but this condition is not mandatory, since even without this the paint adheres to the rubber quite well. The painting process itself is no different from similar work at another facility.
The most important thing is to follow the paint manufacturer’s recommendations and choose a paint composition that can withstand temperature changes and the effects of negative natural phenomena.
Cylindrical punches
Serious tools used to make holes in the saddlery or leather industry differ from household tools only in the quality and durability of the materials used.
To punch single holes of sufficiently large diameter, for example, to install rivets or eyelets, punches are used in the form of a metal tube with a sharp sharpening at the end, sometimes with a plastic or rubber handle and a technological opening for removing knocked out circles of leather. These punches are usually sold in sets of several pieces, with tube diameters ranging from 1.5 mm (1/16″) to 16.8 mm (3/8″).
To make a hole in leather or other soft material, place the latter on a hard base (a smooth board is best), mark it, set the punch vertically and hit it with a hammer. But this is a radical solution. Usually it is enough to press the tube with your hand and turn it. The hole is smooth and neat, the material does not jam.
How to make a rectangular leather punch with your own hands
Leather punches are not so easy to find on the open market. And rectangular ones even more so.
I once urgently needed rectangular punches on a day off. There was nowhere to get it from, and there was no time to order via the Internet - watch straps with such holes had to be sent to customers the next day.
An inquisitive mind, innate ingenuity and great internet. In general, I decided to make the punches myself.
I found a couple of long screws and a metal tube of approximately the right internal diameter in the garage.
We immediately need to make a reservation - everything was done practically on the knee, without the use of special tools.
I used:
- Emery (electric sharpening tool);
- mini vice (small clamping device);
- pliers (pliers);
- hacksaw for metal;
- a set of needle files (miniature files);
- gas burner (in my case, gas stove);
- small hammer;
- glass with machine oil.
The first thing I did was prepare the future punches by sawing off two pieces of the required length from the found tube. I did everything in a hurry and chose the length of the punches by eye, so that there would be something to hold it on and it would be safe for my fingers to hit with a hammer.
Yes, I still hit my finger :).
Then, using emery, I made a kind of matrix from a metal screw, which was necessary for hot forming the rectangular cross-section of the punch. I made the following mandrels according to the required dimensions.
The holes in the straps were of two sizes. Therefore, the punches were of two sizes.
The next step is long and painstaking. It is necessary to heat the tip of the future punch until red and while it is hot, hammer a sharpened pin called a matrix inside. Slowly and repeatedly. He warmed it up, quickly clamped the workpiece in a vice, and hammered the pin. And so on in a circle. Until the inner hole of the punch takes the desired configuration.
Then, after allowing the workpiece to cool slightly, we process the outer surface of the tip of the punch using sandpaper, giving it a rectangular and pointed shape.
After this, we sharpen it with a needle file and use a small sharpening stone to bring the cutting edge of the future punch to the required sharpness
That's it, the end of the torment. The cutting edge remains hardened.
To do this, we again heat the pointed tip of the punch until red and lower it into the oil in short, quick dives, gradually slowing down and making slow and smooth dives.
Then, when the workpiece has cooled, cool it completely by immersing it in cold water or placing it under running cold water.
All. Congratulations! We made it!
To be honest, I did it just once, but in the end I took these punches out of the depths of the tool box and used them a couple more times in my work.
I hope my experience will help you cope in a difficult situation, and I ask “metallurgists” and professional blacksmiths not to criticize too much 
Electric drill
When thinking about how to make a hole in a belt, you should consider using an electric drill
If you are careful, you can use it to make fairly even, neat holes. To begin with, it is recommended to fix the belt by pressing its ends with a heavy weight.
In this case, the area to be treated must be located on a flat, hard surface, for example, a wooden block.
To determine the optimal drill size, it is enough to manually insert several rods of individual diameters into the existing holes on the belt. It is recommended to stop at a drill that will fit tightly enough into the hole.
How to make a neat hole in a belt using a drill? To do this, you must first make a slight indentation at the intended point using the tip of a sharp knife. As a result, the drill will not jump to the sides during the work.
When starting to make a hole, it is necessary to make short-term starts of the drill mechanism. This way you can minimize the risk of making a sloppy hole.
Features of metal punches
Inexperienced craftsmen avoid working with the tools in question, preferring to use a drill. However, its use is impossible when performing particularly precise work: the reverse motion of the drill will certainly damage the inside of the drilled element. In addition, surface deformation can lead to jamming of the drill and failure of the drilling apparatus. Chips and burrs generated during the drilling process can cause injury to the worker.
In addition to hand tools, the use of which is not characterized by high productivity, the following mechanisms are actively used at metalworking enterprises:
- combined press shears;
- presses with CNC system;
- installations for coordinate punching of metal.
Installing eyelets with clips
On the skin
Press the eyelet half against the skin in the desired location.
Using pressure marks as a guide, cut a hole. Also cut out an additional piece of leather for reinforcement.
Glue the additional piece, aligning the holes.
Insert the main part of the eyelet from the front side.
Place the second part of the eyelet on the wrong side and release the clamps. Tap gently with a hammer.
On fabric
Reinforce the grommet location with adhesive material (or fold the fabric in several layers or reinforce several layers for additional thickness). Press down on the grommet to create a hole impression.
Carefully cut out all holes following pressure marks.
Fold all layers of fabric, pin around the hole and insert the main part of the eyelet from the right side.
Place the second part of the eyelet on the wrong side.
Release the clamps. Tap gently with a hammer.
Features of preparation for construction
If you decide to build a house yourself, you will have to solve a lot of problems, and many of them are not even directly related to construction.
First of all, it is worth determining several important parameters:
The dimensions of the timber are one of the most important parameters, since it is the cross-sectional size of the timber that affects the thermal conductivity of the material and the energy efficiency of the house itself. Timber with side dimensions of 100, 150, 200 mm is available on the lumber market, and it can be either square or rectangular. Although the “bigger is better” principle is perfectly suited for this case, increasing the size still leads to an increase in the weight of each unit of timber, which is critical when doing all the work yourself. The layout of the house - even the construction of outbuildings requires careful planning, not to mention a residential building. In the case of houses made of timber, practically nothing changes - before construction you will not only have to create a house plan, but also, if necessary, prepare all the necessary documents to put the structure into operation. Dimensions of the house - when planning, be sure to calculate all the dimensions of the structure, since the amount of materials for building the house depends on them
Take into account absolutely all the nuances - from the total length of the walls, to the number of interior partitions, and other parameters that may be missed during the construction stage, but will be revealed after its completion. Soil characteristics - when constructing any type of structure on a site, it is worth paying attention not only to the technical component, but also to the soil characteristics. If the soil is sufficiently loose and unstable, even a massive foundation can sag, which will lead to the appearance of cracks, as well as the occurrence of loads on the timber walls themselves
Of course, wood is more resistant to such defects, however, the destruction of the foundation is critical for any home. Features of the roof - the type of roofing structure is also related to the layout of the house, as well as the features of the choice of building materials. If the design is too complex, you will need to take care of various auxiliary structures to simplify the installation of the roof.
Of course, all these are basic requirements and parameters, since each design is individual and different from others. Having become familiar with this information, you can move on to analyzing each stage of building a house made of timber.
Installation rules
Detailed instructions for installing vinyl siding can be found on the website of any well-known manufacturer. We will try to highlight the main postulates.
Lathing
- For vertical sheathing, it is better to take a single board with a height from the base to the top of the wall, rather than assemble it from several parts. When composing the sheathing from short sections, it will be very difficult to mount it strictly in one plane, which will affect the appearance of the facade;
- It is desirable that the width of the bar or sheathing board for siding be at least 60 mm, that is, it covers at least two holes in the fastening strip. This width will ensure that the fastener (screw or nail) is placed in the middle of the groove.
A galvanized profile for gypsum boards is often used as lathing.
Sheathing
- Galvanized screws or nails are used for installation. Fasteners without anti-corrosion coating will quickly decorate the facade with rusty streaks;
- The fastener, as already mentioned, must be located strictly in the middle of the groove, allowing the bar to move during expansion or compression;
- For the same reason, the fasteners are not screwed in or not fully screwed in: the head and the bar must be separated by a gap of 1 mm;
- The panels are never mounted tensioned. The planks adjacent along the length of the facade should be separated by a gap of 6 - 8 (if installation is carried out in winter - 10) mm; The gap is closed by a siding docking strip mounted after the panels.
The fastening of siding strips and opening trim should allow for displacement relative to the sheathing.
Types of punches
Manufacturers offer three types of punches:
- Manual. They are a set of tubes of various diameters. The tip must be sharp. On the back of the punch, install a protective cap made of soft material - rubber or plastic. This helps avoid metal splashing on the striking part of the device. For making round holes in soft materials, a hand punch is the best choice.
- Pneumatic. As the name suggests, this variety uses compressed air as the driving force. It is generated by compressors, the power of which depends on the tasks assigned. The air line is connected in the place where the protective nozzle is located on manual punches. The compressor has enough power to punch holes in hard surfaces, including concrete and steel. The cost of the set is much higher compared to manual cutting, since the working part is made of high-strength steel.
- Hydraulic. This type of drive is considered the most productive. As an auxiliary mechanism, manual units operating on the principle of a car jack can be used. For complex work, electric oil stations are used that can create high pressure. Almost all hydraulic punches are equipped with a special mechanism that regulates the penetration depth.
Sharpening round punches for leather and cardboard
Actually, such punches need to be sharpened after all procedures.
I want to make a narrow-profile device for these purposes.
The diameter of the punches is 5-30mm.
I bought this engine:
DP60-90-4-24-R11-D0940 Technical characteristics: Voltage – 24 V Power – 90,000 W Rated rotation speed – 4000 rpm Rated torque – 216.00 mN*m Current consumption in rated mode no more than 5.50 A Initial starting torque at rated supply voltage – 1770.00 mN*m Electromechanical time constant no more than 15.0 ms Weight no more than 2.600 kg Housing diameter – 60.0 mm Housing length – 187.0 mm Motor shaft diameter – 7.0 mm Shaft extension length – 16.0 mm Note: With DC tachogenerator: slope – 0.01 V/min–1; error - 0.5–10%; pulsation coefficient - 2–10%; outer diameter of the case - 40 mm; length - 51 mm.
My brain doesn’t yet understand why I need a Tahoe, but I think it will be useful.
I think that we need to make an “extension”, like on straight grinders.
I have a sketch in my head, but it’s still a mess.
At first I thought about making a device for a lathe, but after reading about the harmful effects of abrasives, I’ll probably refuse.
A few questions for now.
What bearings to use?
What tools are needed when working with leather?
There are dozens of types of tools used to process leather products.
How to cut leather
When working with leather, you have to make a lot of cuts and remove excess material. To easily cope with these tasks, it is necessary to use special cutting tools. These include the following:
- Knife with removable blade. It is small in size and perfect for cutting thick materials. Thanks to the presence of removable blades, the knife will always be sharp and ready for use. Such a product is relatively expensive, so many novice craftsmen prefer to use an ordinary stationery knife. He is also capable of doing a good job. Its only drawback is the need to sharpen frequently.
- Leather scissors. Experts recommend using a tailor's tool that has a self-sharpening function. Do not use office scissors for this work. They will quickly become dull and make crooked cuts.
- Chamfering tool. This metal device has a forked blade at the end, which easily processes the edges of a leather product. Any bevel cutter is equipped with a wooden handle that does not slip out of your hands and does not rub the skin.
What surface to cut leather on?
Leather cutting should be done on a special board. It must have a standard set of characteristics to ensure efficient and safe operation.
Surface Requirement:
- the presence of roughness that prevents the material from sliding;
- high hardness of the product, capable of withstanding strong pressure with a sharp knife;
- the board should not be fibrous.
Plastic (for example, a kitchen board) meets all of the above requirements. This material is able to perform its functions for a long time and not lose efficiency. Other options you can choose from:
- plexiglass;
- linoleum;
- hardboard
How to thin the skin
Thinning (skin roughening) is cutting off the edges of the material in order to create a minimum thickness of the manufactured product. To do this job, you need to use different types of knives and other similar devices. The most popular among them are the following:
- German (shoe) knife. It has a triangular shape and a slightly rounded end. The main feature of the product is one-sided sharpening. The knife thins the material well without tearing it in other places.
- French knife. Unlike German, it has a semicircular shape. Its blade must always be sharp, so the craftsman has to sharpen the product often.
- Planer for leather. It has a sharp blade that is extended relative to the head of the tool. Thanks to this, the plane removes a thin layer of the processed material after each scraper.
How to cut shoelaces
To obtain thin and long laces, craftsmen use a beveller. This device sharpens sharply and easily cuts through even the densest material. If it is not possible to purchase it, then you can do the work using a knife and a (metal) ruler.
Leather embossing tools
Embossing is the extrusion of various patterns and images. During this operation, you need to use special stamps. They are metal tools that can be easily pressed into a product and leave visible marks.
What other tools are needed?
In the process of making an item, you may need different tools for working with leather. Most of them can be purchased in special stores or made with your own hands.
Necessary equipment:
- Punch. It consists of a metal base to which needles of different sizes can be attached. With this tool it is easy to make a hole in the skin.
- Saddler (wooden or metal vice). They are used to fix leather products in the desired position.
- Clamps. These devices will become indispensable when gluing 2 workpieces. Clamps will firmly fasten them together and eliminate the possibility of shifting.
- Marker. It is a tool with a rotating circle with needles at the end. As the wheel spins, each needle lightly pierces the material, leaving a visible mark on it.
Where to buy leather working tools
Most tools are sold in specialized or construction stores. Some accessories can be purchased in departments with sewing supplies.
Homemade circle cutter for cutting large holes
Homemade circle cutter for cutting large holes.
You can cut a perfectly round rubber gasket of any size or a belt for the tape drive mechanism of a tape recorder from a sheet of rubber using this simple device. In addition, it can be used to cut large diameter holes in plywood, plastic, plexiglass, cardboard and other similar materials.
Making it yourself is not at all difficult. From a sheet of plywood 10 mm thick, cut out three squares measuring 300x300 mm. In the center of one of them drill a hole ?8 mm, and in the other two - ?25 mm. By gluing the blanks, as shown in the drawing, we get the base of the device. Secure an M8 bolt in its central hole with a nut.
Make the central post from a brass rod ? 12 mm and 80 mm long. Cut an M12 external thread at one end, and an M8 internal thread in the end hole on the other side.
The rotary sleeve has an axial hole of ? 12 mm and an M10 thread perpendicular to it.
The carrier is a brass rod ? 10 mm. An M10 thread 10 mm long is cut at one end, and an M3 radial hole at the other end is made after subassembling the carrier with a rotary sleeve: it should be parallel to its hole ≈12 mm.
The slider in the form of a corner is cut from a duralumin block. In its vertical wall there are two holes ? 10 mm in diameter - one for the carrier, the second, perpendicular to it and shifted downwards by 5 mm, for the retainer - a threaded pin with a semicircular groove. A groove with a cross section of 14X3 mm is sawed in the horizontal wall for a knife. The material for its manufacture is a piece of hacksaw blade. The knife is fixed in the vertical groove of the slider with an M6 screw.
The pressure disc is cut on a lathe from a 2 mm thick metal plate or a thicker sheet of plastic. Its central hole should be ? 8 mm, and the outer diameter should be slightly smaller than the cut one.
Rice. 1 Tool for cutting large diameter holes:
1 - handle, 2 - carrier, 3 - M6 screw, 4 - slider, 5 - knife, 6 - central post, 7 - lock nut, 8 - rotary sleeve, 9 - spring, 10 - M8 bolt, 11 - pressure disk, 12 - workpiece, 13 - base, 14 - threaded pin-retainer.
The bushing lock nut with a central thread M12 has an outer diameter of ? 25 mm and a height of 15 mm. Cut a transverse groove half the diameter in it and make a longitudinal hole in this part. Then cut an M4 thread in its lower half, and drill out to ?5 mm in the upper half. Now tighten the halves of the nut with a screw, this way you can lock it in any position on the central pillar.
The procedure for assembling the device is as follows. Screw the carrier with the threaded shank into the rotary sleeve until it stops. Insert the locking pin into the slider so that its cylindrical recess coincides with the longitudinal hole. Having put the slider on the carrier, insert a knife into its groove and tighten it with a screw. Attach a rotating handle to the end of the carrier.
A blank is placed on the bolt rod protruding from the base. A pressure disk is installed on it, and then a central post. You can tighten the thread with a wrench - a radial hole of ? 5 mm is intended for this. A spring is put on the strut, followed by the carrier assembly and, finally, a locking nut.
Having adjusted the position of the slider on the carrier and the bushing on the stand (in height), you can begin to work.
The dimensions of the main parts allow you to cut holes with a diameter of up to 240 mm on this device, however, if you require a larger size, it is enough to replace only three elements: the carrier, the base and the pressure disk. And to quickly adjust the device to a given size, you can apply vernier marks to the carrier.
Y. ORLOV, Troitsk, Moscow region. "Modelist-Constructor" 1985, No. 5
Homemade leather punches
Making a leather punch with your own hands is easy. You just need to select a thin tube of the desired diameter and sharpen its edge. It is also possible to make decorative holes by giving the working part the shape of a semicircle, oval, or crescent, if there is no desire or opportunity to purchase such a tool.
Craftsmen use small Chinese screwdrivers, removing the tip, sharpening the edge and cutting a groove to push out the scraps. Telescopic antennas from old radios are processed in much the same way. Some people use IV needles and micromotors with a collet clamp.
An ordinary table fork can be a handy tool for making a stepper tool. True, the holder must be thick and the teeth must be square in cross-section (or triangular, if you come across one). The fork is warmed up, aligned in the same plane with the holder, the handle and excess teeth are cut off with a hacksaw (fifteen millimeters of length remains, or even less). Then the workpiece is brought to working condition: the cut of the handle, the width of the teeth and their height are leveled, and the teeth are sharpened with a needle file.
It is better to pierce soft and thin leather with leather sewing needles. It is clear that, using one needle, it is difficult to make an even seam with identical stitches, and the process takes quite a long time. There are craftsmen who, using improvised materials and thick sewing machine needles, can assemble a leather punch with their own hands. Such a tool can simultaneously punch five holes, but sewing needles, even the thickest ones, break easily, so you need to use a punching hammer very carefully.
Leather is a rewarding material to work with. Using even simple tools, you can make unusually beautiful and functional things from it. These can be wallets, purses, bags, belts, sheaths and much more. And so that the creative process is not too labor-intensive, the seams are smooth and of high quality, and punches are needed.
Punch manufacturing options
To make a simple hole punch, you can also use a thin tube with the desired diameter, sharpening its edge. If you need to make not just a round, but a decorative hole in the shape of an oval, crescent or semicircle, you can initially give this shape to the end of your hole punch. Such a tool can be made from an ordinary small screwdriver, an IV needle, or a table fork.
The main thing when making a hole punch for leather with your own hands is to remember that leather is a noble material, but with the necessary skill and accuracy you can make useful, comfortable and beautiful things and accessories from it.
Hole punches - what is the difference from a countersink?
A countersink is a multi-blade cutting tool that is used to machine cylindrical and conical holes in parts. The purpose of this work is to increase the diameter, improve not only the surface quality, but also the accuracy of the hole dimensions. Any actions performed by this tool are called countersinking, or rather, it is semi-clean processing of a hole by cutting off small defects. A countersink punch is a tool that combines two functions at once. The sharp tip allows you to immediately punch holes, and the built-in blades expand them to the desired diameter.
The countersinking process is a precision machining operation that requires high power. Often such work can only be performed using special machines. Drilling machines of all types are suitable for this (these are the most common jobs), turning machines, boring machines (as secondary operations), milling machines (both horizontal and vertical, but they are rarely used, only as one part of the program), modular machines (this may be one of the operations in the automatic line).
A standard tool consists of a cutting part, working and calibrating parts, a neck and a shank. The cutting part is made in such a way that the main cutting edges are located on it. They are always located at a certain angle. The size of the angle depends on the purpose and type of countersink punch. Typically, if they are used for ductile metals, the angle should be about 15 degrees, and if for brittle metals - about 5 degrees.
The calibrating part has a cylindrical shape. There are always auxiliary cutting edges located on it. Their purpose is to clean and calibrate holes. To prevent damage to the ends of the teeth, a small reverse cone is made at the end of the calibrating part, where the value of the reduction is from 0.04 to 0.07 mm. The sharpening of teeth on all tools of this type is different, it all depends on the purpose. To improve the cleanliness of processing, all teeth are spaced unevenly, this design solution helps to increase productivity and improve work quality.
Review of my line punches
Category: Tools Published 09/14/2018 · Comments: · Reading time: 4 min · Views: Post Views: 11,316
I think the story about my line punches will be more interesting if I tell about them in the order in which I bought them.
Let me briefly remind you that line punches are designed to punch identical and equidistant holes in the skin.
Line punches with round teeth
My very first line punches were punches with round teeth. The distance between the centers of the teeth is 5 mm, which, in my opinion, is optimal. The diameter of the teeth is 1 mm.
Unlike simple line punches with diamond-shaped teeth, round punches do not tear the leather, but cut out a piece of leather in the shape of a circle. The internal channels of the teeth communicate with the channels of the punch, which allows you to naturally get rid of cut out pieces of skin through the side through “tunnels”.
One of the undoubted advantages of this model of line punches is the ability to replace the teeth. The teeth are twisted and screwed in. Please note that not all round tooth punches have this functionality. This punch is also loved by beginners because it is forgiving of beginner saddle stitches. Doubtful, but a plus.
There are also disadvantages. This punch cannot penetrate two or more layers of skin. Each part of the product must be punched separately, which increases the risk of damaging the product blanks by punching holes asymmetrically to each other.
Overall, a quite decent line punch. The saddle seam, based on holes made with a punch with round teeth, looks beautiful and gives a genuine leather product a harsh and rough look.
A set of diamond-tooth punches from the Taiwanese brand IVAN
My next line punches were a set of punches from IVAN (article 3009-00). I have already mentioned it.
The set consists of one handle and three sets of removable working parts screwed onto the handle, each with two, four and six teeth. The working part with one tooth is universal. The distance between the teeth in the three sets is stated by the manufacturer as 2.3 mm, 3.1 mm and 3.9 mm, respectively. However, it should be understood that this distance is precisely between the edges of the teeth. The distance between the tips of the teeth in the three sets is 4 mm, 5 mm and 6 mm, respectively. The width of all tooth edges is only 2 mm.
IVAN states that their punches are made of high quality metal and treated with a special anti-corrosion coating. After several years of using these punches, I am inclined to believe that this statement by the manufacturer is the absolute truth.
The advantage of IVAN line punches is undoubtedly the quality of workmanship, a good pitch range of the holes created and their small size.
One of the downsides is the fact that the punches are not designed to work with many layers of leather, or even just thick leather. The length of the working surface of the teeth excluding the tip is only 5 mm. It is for this reason that I purchased the next set of punches.
Chinese line punches are very similar to Japanese ones
A set of classic diamond-shaped punches, consisting of the same number of classic tools. Four pieces - 1, 2, 4 and 6 teeth. The distance between the tips of the teeth is 5 mm.
The punches are sharp and made quite well. The length of the working surface of the teeth excluding the tip is 10 mm. For the sake of experimentation, I successfully punched through five layers of 2 mm thick yuft with these waste punches.
The width of the edges of the teeth is approximately 2 mm, but apparently due to a slightly more stretched diamond, the distance between the teeth is reduced, and the punched holes are slightly larger than those from IVAN punches.
And almost simultaneously I became the owner of another set of line punches, very similar to the previous ones, but with a distance between the tips of the teeth of 4 mm.
In addition to size, there are a couple of other differences.
- A very thin layer of some kind of gray matte paint was applied to the punches.
- Visually, the working surface of this set of line punches looks noticeably smoother than the previous set.
The length of the teeth excluding the tip is 8 mm. The width of the edge of the teeth is about 1.5 mm. The metal of both sets of punches is quite durable.
I really like these drain punches. They are suitable for sewing large and small items made of genuine leather.
As a minus, I would point out that the final processing of the working surface of the line punches with an intertooth interval of 5 mm could have been better. Experts say that you can complete the polishing yourself - with GOI paste, but for me this is such a non-issue that for several years I never got around to doing it.
And the last line punches I bought at the moment were also Chinese line punches, which apparently the Chinese “invented” by successfully copying some brand.
Chinese original line punches
What's original about them?
What is original is that the thickness of the teeth in them is less than 1 mm, with other parameters - 5 mm of distance between the tip of the teeth, and 8.5 mm of their length without taking into account the tip. Which, in theory, should create the illusion of a neater saddle stitch. In practice this has been confirmed. You will laugh, but I would compare these line punches with IVAN punches. The holes break just as easily. The holes themselves are very similar to the holes from IVAN. When I ordered these punches, I was convinced that they would not make any impression on me... and I was wrong. I am delighted with this punch set.
As a demonstration, the saddle seam in the holes was punched with all the line punches reviewed. In the photo they are in the same order, from top to bottom.
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Tags: Round punches, Diamond punches, Line punches
