Converting flashlights to lithium batteries. Converting a battery-powered headlamp into a rechargeable one Converting a space flashlight to use 18650 batteries


30.04.2021

On inferior 5 mm LEDs for a 18650 lithium battery. Here the scarf was removed, and in return a homemade one was made on new original (the crystal is quite large) LEDs 2835 1 W 350 mA (for backlighting monitors), they have a positive substrate. But you can also use regular 2835 by changing the polarity to standard. On Ali they cost 3 cents.

When installing a new board, you need to grind down the fastening post flush with the reflector cups; the more we grind, the better the focus in the center without darkening is obtained. The charger is used at 5 V 500 mA in narrow cases, installed at the top under the battery (with parts down), the board with the leads is covered with a thick film - a substrate from an ATX power supply unit, and the battery is glued to the top of the molecular battery.

The AMC7135 chip is installed as a driver at 3.2 V 350 mA, 5 LEDs account for 70 mA each, which prevents them from heating up with good light output. The result is a very good quality and durable flashlight that will now last for a very long time.

Converting a flashlight to Li-Ion 18650

Another more modern flashlight with mains charging, the internals have been replaced with 18650 batteries and 5 V USB charging.

7 LEDs were replaced with higher quality 5 mm “hat” type ones with a brighter glow. But since the flashlight had two modes, I decided for the future to remake the board for two types of LEDs, 6 pieces of 5 mm in a circle and a central powerful CREE LED or 1 W, it fits there on the substrate just right. In this form, scattered light and beam light are obtained.

The driver is standard on LM358, the current of the central LED is selected within 120 mA, which is quite enough for lighting and practically does not heat the substrate. Heating of the LED substrate will start from 150 mA, but if you use double-sided fiberglass, you can use the second side as a small radiator, although this is still unnecessary, since the luminous flux will be only slightly brighter, but the LED substrate will heat up quite strongly.

I assembled it, checked it, everything fits perfectly under the reflector, it shines quite brightly. The light turned out to be cool white from 5 mm LEDs and slightly warm white from CREE.

Selecting a headlamp battery: 18650 or AA,AAA

The choice of battery for your headlamp deserves special consideration. Which batteries are better to use: 18650 or AA, AAA? All selection options described above are also suitable for headlamp batteries. Therefore, it is preferable to use 18650 as higher-capacity and higher-current batteries. safety of use comes first .

Suitable for headlamps:

  1. Protected 18650 batteries.
    battery Robiton 18650 Li-Ion 3000 mAh, protected
      Size 18650
  2. Capacity 3000 mAh
  3. Built-in protection board
  4. Manufactured using Samsung batteries
  5. Supply voltage 3.7V
  6. 590

    ₽ In stock

    More details

  7. High-capacity AA batteries.
    battery GP 2700 mAh R6/AA-2BL
      Set of 2 NiMH batteries
  8. Size AA
  9. Voltage 1.2V
  10. Capacity 2700 mAh
  11. 440


    410
    ₽ In stock

    More details

  12. High-capacity AAA batteries.
    battery Robiton 1100 mAh R03/AAA-2BL
      Set of 2 NiMH batteries
  13. Size AAA
  14. Voltage 1.2V
  15. Capacity 1100 mAh
  16. 180

    ₽ In stock

    More details

  17. Specialized batteries for headlamps.
    battery for headlamp Petzl ACCU REACTIC
      Original battery for Petzl Reactic flashlights
  18. Capacity 1800 mAh
  19. MicroUSB connector for charging
  20. 3 570

    ₽ Not available

    More details

  21. Lithium iron phosphate batteries 18650 without protection.

Alteration of the A420 flashlight

Conversion of the A420 flashlight from LDS to LEDs. A friend asked me to look at the flashlight to see if it was possible to make something useful out of it, since with an LDS lamp it quickly eats up the batteries, and it would be a shame to throw it away.

I looked and thought, the power comes from 4 1.5 V batteries, you can make a flashlight for 1 - 4 26650 batteries, but this only partially solves the problem, a flashlight with LEDs would be more useful. It was decided to leave the batteries, but convert the flashlight to LED.

Chinese penny LEDs 2835 at 3-3.6 V 60 mA were taken as the light basis, the total current was calculated at 640 mA, so as not to overheat the crystal. There is enough light with them, but if you need it brighter, you can install brighter LEDs, and replace resistor R2 on the driver with a variable one, there will be additional brightness adjustment.

The printed circuit board was copied and remade to fit the LM358 driver I liked, the LED matrix stands for the contacts, the scarves were taken from an old monitor board, they fit perfectly. A little later, the board was supplemented with a charger for TR4056, the power connector can be installed on the lid, now you can also install any suitable batteries in the flashlight by screwing the terminals directly to the stands.

Redesign of the T-50A flashlight

The canopy of the T-50A model has also been redesigned.

After testing the operating time of the flashlight from the built-in 26650 5A battery, after a while the LEDs began to blink. I thought it was overheating, but separately from the driver they shined wonderfully and didn’t get too hot. The problem turned out to be the Chinese op-amp LM358, which was once purchased by a party; when replaced with the original, the problem with blinking disappeared.

Discuss the article CHANGING A FLASHLIGHT FOR 18650 BATTERY

Nowadays, more and more equipment uses lithium-ion batteries as batteries. They do not have a “memory effect”, unlike Ni-Cd. They can deliver high current.

I decided to convert two old flashlights to use 18650 lithium-ion batteries, since I have a large number of them. And it’s not difficult to get them from repair companies that repair laptops.

For the conversion we will need a number of components:

- actual flashlights; - ; - ; - plexiglass; - a piece of thin plastic; - ; - wires, hot glue, tools.

The flashlights are a convenient size for installing two 18650 batteries. In principle, we can describe the modification of one flashlight.

My charge controller boards are different. On one Mini-USB, on the second Micro-USB. These boards can be purchased in China for 15-20 rubles per unit. They are also sold in radio stores and radio markets. I have boards without protection (BMS), but we can handle it.

We disassemble the flashlights and take out all of them, except for the switches and LEDs.

Now we take thin plastic, I have ABS from an old battery. It turned out that it was black, but it’s not scary, it will also look great on a blue flashlight.

We cut the windows so that they fit tightly into the place where the charging plug used to extend.

We cut out the required size for the window and holes for the connectors of our charge boards. It is not necessary to glue them, they should fit tightly and I will strengthen them later.

Since our boards do not have discharge protection, boards made from mobile phone batteries are used in this situation. You can buy one with protection, but I don’t have those in stock right now. Therefore, I resort to a slightly labor-intensive solution.

We solder the wires from our BMS to the batteries. We put the charge controller boards in place and support them. I used pieces of wine cork as spacers. We strengthen everything with hot glue, but you can do it without it.

We solder the switches, my switches break the plus. The black flashlight has a circuit board with an LED. The switch has two on positions, one of which I set to a single LED, and the second position turns on the main LEDs. The blue flashlight has one switch position.

We assemble the flashlights and solder the reflectors and move on to the next stage.

The next step is to cut out two records from transparent plastic, for me it is plastic from a CD box. We sand it with sandpaper until the surface is matte, this makes the light from the LED more pleasant.

We glue it to the place where the slide used to pull out the power plug used to be. You need to glue it on one half of the flashlight. Suddenly you will need to disassemble the flashlight.

Review of 18650 batteries for different devices, converting the battery to a screwdriver, the best batteries from AliExpress

TEST:

To see if you have enough information about your lithium-ion battery:

  1. When purchasing 18650 batteries for a security flashlight, which manufacturer is preferable?
  1. What indicators should chargers for 18650 provide?

a) The output is 5 Volts and the current is from 0.5 to 1 from the nominal capacity of the battery itself. b) The output is 10 Volts and the current is from 1 to 3 of the nominal capacity of the battery itself.

  1. In what temperature range is it desirable to store the battery?

a) + 10 – + 25 – ideal indicators. The battery does not tolerate extremely cold or hot rooms. b) At a temperature of +20 - +45 degrees.

  1. How many stages does a lithium battery take to charge?

a) Two. b) Four.

  1. How many charging stages does a lithium battery have that charges in less than an hour?

Answers:

  1. b) It is advisable to take Chinese KEEPPOWER batteries. Samsung does not produce models with protection.
  2. a) The correct output indicators are 5 Volts and the current is from 0.5 to 1 of the nominal capacity of the battery itself.
  3. a) + 10 – + 25 – ideal indicators. Do not place the battery in other conditions.
  4. a) Two stages - first with a voltage of 0.2-1A, and then with a high constant.
  5. a) Only one. High voltage is immediately applied to the element. The remaining stages are missing.

Nickel-cadmium battery problem,

installed in the screwdriver, is that it must be used constantly. If the battery is completely discharged or is not used for a long time, the crystallization process will begin in it, and the battery will soon fail completely.

To replace the battery

you will have to spend a lot of money, since batteries suitable for a screwdriver are not cheap.

For these reasons, screwdriver owners modify the battery slightly to accommodate lithium cells. But before starting such work, you need to think about whether such a modification is necessary and whether it is advisable at all.

Definition:
battery
is a battery that produces 3.7V power.

Characteristics of flashlight batteries

The main characteristics of flashlight batteries include:

  1. Chemical composition.
  2. Standard size
  3. Voltage.
  4. Capacity.
  5. Operating current.
  6. Memory effect.
  • All the main parameters depend on the chemical composition of the battery (lithium-ion or nickel-metal hydride): specific capacity, voltage of one element, maximum operating current, “memory effect”, number of charge-discharge cycles. Accordingly, the duration of the flashlight depends on this , beam brightness, number of batteries.
  • The standard size is the battery format (round, rectangular) and dimensions. This is one of the first parameters when choosing a battery. The lantern is designed for elements of a certain standard size. A larger format battery will not fit into the battery compartment, and a smaller one will not fit there. The standard size has a digital or alphanumeric designation. For lithium-ion batteries: 18650, 16340 (CR123A), 14500. For nickel-metal hydride batteries: AA, AAA, R14, R20. 18650 indicates a diameter of 18 mm and a length of 65 mm, 16340 - 16 mm and 34 mm, 14500 - 14 mm and 50 mm.
  • AA - 14 mm and 50 mm, AAA - 10 mm and 44 mm, R14 - 26 mm and 50 mm, R20 - 34 mm and 62 mm. As you can see, AA batteries are the same size as a 14500 battery, but they are not interchangeable due to different voltages.
  • Voltage is the potential difference between the positive and negative poles of a battery, measured in Volts (V or V). It is necessary to use battery cells with the voltage for which the flashlight is designed. So, using three LI-Ion batteries 3.7V instead of three Ni-MH 1.5V elements, we get a total voltage of about 12 Volts (instead of 4.5 Volts). The magnitude of the voltage change during the discharge process is also important. There are several battery voltage values:
      maximum - after full charge,
  • the minimum is at the end of the discharge.
  • nominal - in the middle of the category.
  • The capacity shows how long the battery will be discharged at the rated current. It is measured in Ampere*hours (Ah), or, in English, in Amper*hour (Ah). Small capacities are expressed in milliAmpere*hours or milliAmper*hour (mAh). You must understand that the actual capacity of the battery may be noticeably less than the declared one if the operating current significantly exceeds the rated current.
  • Operating current is measured in Amperes or milliAmperes (A or mA), in the foreign designation Amper or milliAmper (A or mA). The higher the current, the more energy the battery can deliver per unit time, which means it can power a more powerful light bulb in the flashlight. It is necessary to separate the concepts of the maximum operating current that the battery can supply and the rated operating current at which the capacity declared by the manufacturer is ensured. Lithium-ion batteries can supply high current to a light bulb or flashlight LED for a long time, which provides a brighter beam than when using a Ni-MH battery.
  • The memory effect manifests itself in a decrease in the capacity of nickel-cadmium and nickel-metal hydride batteries when they are not completely discharged before charging. The memory effect is characteristic of Ni-Cd, reduced in Ni-MH and absent in Li-Ion batteries.
  • It is also important to know 3 nuances before starting work

    1. First you need to decide on the number of elements in the battery.
      It is best to use 4 elements, since three will only give 12.6 Volts.
    2. 18650
      battery you need to pay attention to the capacity and discharge current.
      When the battery is running, the current consumed is in the range of 5 or 10 amperes, but if you sharply press the power button, it can jump to 25. This suggests that the maximum discharge current value should be approximately 30 amperes on an 18650 battery.
    3. You should also pay attention to the controller. Its characteristics must be equal to the rated voltage and current
      . For a 14.4 V battery, the controller is the optimal voltage. The operating current should be several times less than the maximum permissible.

    Chargers for 18650 batteries

    For battery

    18650 will have to use the correct charger. At the output it will produce 5 Volts and a current from 0.5 to 1 of the rated capacity of the battery itself. If lithium cells support 2600 mAh, then a current of 1.3-2.6 amperes should be used to charge it.

    Lithium battery

    The battery is charged in several stages:

    1. First, a voltage of 0.2-1A is applied to the battery
      .
    2. Then charging
      takes place at a constant voltage.

    If the charger has a pulse

    mode, this will significantly speed up the charging time.

    If the battery contains graphite,

    then the voltage should not exceed 4.3 Volts per element. If you exceed this figure, the energy density will increase and the oxidation process will begin.

    There are lithium batteries

    charging in less than an hour. They do not provide for the second stage - the current is immediately supplied to 80% and after that it is put into operation. This is normal for a lithium battery.

    Answers to 5 frequently asked questions about choosing an e-cigarette battery

    Battery

    Look at the picture of the battery

    18650 for an electronic cigarette.
    It is quite difficult to choose the right battery for an electronic cigarette, since there are many varieties with different degrees of power. For example, they work for a long time,
    but they cannot be turned on at full power. Others won't get hot even at 40 amps, but they require frequent charging. When selecting a battery for an electric cigarette, people wonder about the criteria.

    There are five main criteria: High energy intensity,

    rated current indicator, voltage when used, temperature when used, cost.
    There is no point in paying attention to other nuances, like the color of a cigarette. All this is secondary. To choose a good unit, you should study all the criteria in detail. As a result, the buyer will receive all the necessary information for a good purchase. Energy intensity
    Electronic cigarette

    Energy intensity

    expressed in milliamps per hour. Accordingly, the higher this indicator, the better the model will be. Safety depends on the rated current. The conclusion suggests itself that it is advisable to buy batteries with the highest current supply. For example, the LG hb6 battery has 30 A, which means it is suitable for 40 A. But having made such a purchase, a person will prefer high voltage and sacrifice energy intensity. The energy capacity of the above battery is only 1500 mAh. Therefore, it will hold less charge than options with 3000 mAh.

    It is necessary to select the rated current indicators ,

    which will not overheat the device, but do not sacrifice battery life. It is better to purchase the LG HD2 model, which has a rating of 25 A and microamps per hour. This will be the average. As for the voltage, you should not rely on this nuance when choosing - if the cigarette has two previous indicators that are good, then the voltage will be sufficient.

    Which battery is better for a led flashlight? flashlight charging tests.

    You also need to select devices

    having a low degree of heating.
    Overheating an electric cigarette will soon damage the entire mechanism. That is why you need to take a battery that will work at the lowest temperatures. The cost of cigarettes
    is approximately the same and this is not the most important criterion. It is advisable to start from the indicators first.

    Top 3 best battery chargers

    Nightcore digicharger D4

    Charger _

    Can power four batteries. This is an already proven brand, loved by many owners of lithium batteries.

    Device

    It is equipped with a convenient display - you can study various data, including charging speed and time, voltage on each element. It is very convenient to monitor the battery status on this display.

    This is a universal charger,

    Designed not only for the 18650 model. D4 should be used by people who have a large number of mobile devices that fit several types of batteries.

    Beginners will quickly master the work, since charging occurs automatically .

    Efest luc Blu6 oled Bluetooth intelligent Charger

    This is also a very good charger model ,

    designed for 6 batteries. To safely charge, the device is equipped with special protection against high current, voltage, and so on.

    The user gets the opportunity to connect his mobile phone to charging via Bluetooth

    - You can remotely monitor the battery charge level. The only drawback of charging is the high price.

    Nightcore i2 intellicharger

    Charger

    went on sale recently. This is a modern type of device, equipped with interesting features and improved design.

    Users don't need to worry about charging speed and time,

    since the device detects everything automatically. The person only needs to install the battery in its proper place.

    The device only has room for two batteries, but the charger is very compact and can be taken with you when traveling.

    Li-ion battery 18650 for flashlight

    1. Lithium-ion batteries
      operate in the range of 4.35 - 4.2 Volts. They are often used to make LED lights work.
    2. You need to ensure that the battery
      does not discharge below the set level - 2 volts.
      In order not to constantly monitor the required voltage, you need to use a battery
      for the flashlight with protection. They store elements from overcharging or deep vacuum.

    Companies

    Samsung, Panasonic, LG and Sony do not produce such equipment. For this purpose, it is better to purchase a Chinese KEEPPOWER device.

    Useful video collection on modifying flashlights

    Selecting and purchasing a flashlight is a difficult and tedious task. At least for me. I approach this matter with all meticulousness and responsibility. It is necessary to take into account all the advantages and disadvantages of the product. Type and capacity of batteries, parameters, weight, degree of water resistance and much more. So that he does not fail at the most inopportune moment. I wanted to buy a small pocket flashlight, waterproof, powered by a single 18650 battery. However, I could not find the desired product in local stores. I was already thinking about ordering from an online store and, after waiting 2-4 weeks, getting what I needed... But suddenly I came across something that almost suited me. Almost. The flashlight had the dimensions I needed and all the necessary qualities, but there was one “but” - it worked on three AAA batteries (pinky).

    Having a special container with four constantly charged 18650 batteries in my backpack, I absolutely do not want to use other batteries. Moreover, such small and not capacious ones as little ones. But there is always a way out! Having examined this flashlight in the store, a modification scheme immediately emerged, and without thinking twice, I purchased it with the goal of remaking it in my own way in the near future.

    The best 18650 batteries on AliExpress according to reviews

    1. Rechargeable Battery
    2. Samsung icr18650
    3. Rechargeable flat Top Battery

    Ideal conditions for the battery

    – temperature +10 – +25 degrees.

    The idea of ​​how to convert a headlamp into a battery-powered one arose a long time ago, this is especially true for fishing and when. Since it is not profitable to constantly buy batteries in our age of mobile phones. So, after thinking about it and ordering the necessary spare parts, which I will describe below, I began to modify the headlamp for batteries with my own hands, using a Chinese circuit with charging. This makes it possible to charge the battery both in the car and from a regular micro USB of a modern phone. I usually order from Aliexpress, although it is possible to find it in stores, but it’s 2 times more expensive.

    A very bright and functional headlamp, for such a price, but for some reason I haven’t found one on sale now. I tried to remake this model, it’s a little inconvenient with the button installation and the diode plate gets hot, I had to isolate it from the battery with a piece of plastic. But in the end the flashlight works properly

    The flashlight was delivered to the post office in 20 days, which made me happy :) .

    The idea is very simple and anyone can do it; all you need is a small battery from an old cell phone, it contains a Li-Ion battery with protection. The voltage parameters are ideal, the LED flashlight has a voltage range from 4.5 - 2V, and the 3.7V battery in a charged state of 4.2V has a decent capacity, which can be increased by adding another battery in parallel. You just need to correctly identify the contacts (most have plus and minus indicated), all that remains is to carefully solder the contacts so as not to melt and avoid a short circuit. The problem with charging via a regular micro USB can be easily solved by ordering a small board costing about 20 rubles. Micro USB plays a very important role in controlling the charging and turning off the ice lamp when the battery is low.

    The board has LED indicators that indicate in color when the converted LED flashlight is charging. Thus, the modification of the Chinese headlamp comes down to soldering the wires to the terminals. Using this board, converting any flashlight to lithium is quite simple, it is only important to know how many volts the battery produces.

    Charging board, purchased in an online store with free delivery

    Perhaps I ordered 10 pieces for myself at once because it is universal and can be used in children's toys.

    Battery connection diagram

    Indestructible, hand-held, homemade flashlight

    Preface

    I became interested in night games, namely Encounter
    . It combines many genres (types), but the most common in our city were points and fights. This meant that we often had to be in the dark in a variety of places (from sewers and basements to abandoned factories and workshops). Often I had to be at a height or knee-deep in water.

    And it was extremely annoying at the most crucial moment to lose one of the most important things in the game, to lose that ray of light that helped you in the darkness of the night look for the treasured codes and tags. I'm talking about a flashlight. During the time that I have been playing, more than one luminous friend has passed away from life, for a variety of reasons (made is China, whatever you wanted): they broke when falling, drowned, the plastic did not withstand the cold, etc. And there was a case where the flashlight died because I did not charge it correctly (thanks to the manufacturer, who wrote the wrong instructions for the flashlight). Plus, devices for 300-400 rubles did not have high performance, which was also not pleasing: they shone no more than 200 Lm and had a cold, blue-tinged light. I didn’t want to splurge on brands, and I didn’t want to buy Chinese analogues from abroad either (I know our Russian Post, I’ve come across it). In general, I was fired up with the desire to make myself a comrade with CREE myself. And then it started!

    Frame

    I saw something powerful and strong in my head. But I also wanted it to fit properly in my hand and to be, although not waterproof, but not afraid of rain and short-term exposure to water. From the beginning it turned out like this: Initial view of the flashlight
    Head:

    Body:


    As a result, the body was made from:

    • Extension (squeeze) 1/2 80mm, chrome plated
    • Extension 1/2 40mm, chrome plated
    • Adapter from 1/2 to 3/4
    • 1/2 plug
    • 3/4 plug

    And what we have inside?

    Having wandered through the vastness of the World Wide Web, reviewed a bunch of reviews of flashlights with different characteristics and dug up a field of thematic forums (not the entire field). I roughly decided what I wanted:

    • LED at 3-5w, about 500 Lm and warm daylight
    • a driver that can pull it will be able to report low battery and minimum modes
    • lens or reflector degrees 10-40
    • Wires, glass, button and other small items

    My search for electronic components took me to a variety of online stores. I settled on www.fasttech.com (not an advertisement, just for informational purposes). And my choice fell on this (this was my first homemade flashlight, so I didn’t want to spend much):

    • Driver
    • Lens
    • Button
    • Light-emitting diode
    A little and separately about the driver

    I already said above what criteria I want in my driver, and they almost coincided with those that the driver I chose had, but here’s the annoyance - 5 modes. Among them are strobe and SOS, how could I live without them (sarcasm). And indeed, they are not used in games - this needs to be corrected somehow. The great GOOGLE came to the rescue, which led me to this material (not advertising, purely for information). Upon arrival of the parcel, the procedure for closing the contacts on the driver was carried out and I safely got rid of the “rescue modes”. Go ahead.

    Preparing the future body for transplanting the filling

    The tasks are as follows:

    • Drill holes in the plugs for the button and lens
    • Make the “+” contact inside the housing
    • Think over and make a system for removing heat from the LED

    But first things first.

    Drill holes in the plugs for the button and lens

    Drills and metal cutters come to the rescue.
    Lens plug before and after work


    It's the same with the button cover.

    Make the “+” contact inside the housing

    Like most flashlight structures, the “-” contact is made along the body, and the “+” contact is made through the core of the body.
    We will do the same. All that remains is to decide how to carry out that “+”. After some thought, I decided to make a plug for their two-component EPOXYLIN glue in the 80mm drive, drill a hole in it and run a wire. Schematic drawing (drew in Paint, well, I don’t own the designer’s estate)

    Result

    Think over and make a system for removing heat from the LED

    LEDs tend to heat up and you shouldn’t overheat them - everyone knows this.
    I decided to cut out a heatsink from a heatsink (an aluminum heatsink to cool the bridges of some motherboard). And then solder it into a lead (40mm), or rather, fill it with tin in this very drive. Again a schematic drawing from Paint

    The resulting radiator (thanks to the grower and the file)

    We insert the radiator, fill it with tin and drill 2 holes for the wires to connect the driver and LED.
    Receives

    Let's start assembly

    The preparatory work is completed, let's assemble.
    We collect the dig, we collect the head. All components are glued for waterproofing. Button

    Head

    Install the driver and LED.
    We solder the driver to the drive (80mm). We place the LED (with pre-soldered wires) on thermal paste. Driver and LED

    Now all our components are ready and all that remains is to assemble them. We connect the driver and LED with a soldering iron and go ahead. For waterproofing, we wrap FUM tape on the threads of the components.

    Which I didn’t take into account and as a result ran into it.

    When I ordered the components, I did not find all the sizes, and therefore could not calculate everything, and the final result in my head was slightly different.
    As a result, the head and lens were located far from the LED and, accordingly, it did not shine normally. It was decided to shorten the head with an engraver and cutting discs for it, and then fit it on a sharpening machine. Head after modification

    Result

    And so the result turned out to be satisfactory (well, I’m certainly satisfied).
    Flashlight

    At work. In the second photo with a colder light there is a Chinese lantern (for comparison)

    I would like to note that the heat from the driver is dissipated with a bang; after 15 minutes of operation at full power, the LED substrate was a little warm.

    Plans for the future (let's dream)

    This is my first flashlight, don't judge too harshly. At the moment I plan to test the flashlight in gaming conditions (for which it was actually intended), I will make changes. In the future, I plan to assemble something light for a headlamp, and something powerful for a corner flashlight on a backpack strap. And I’ll tell you accordingly.

    Board parameters

    • Input voltage from Micro USB: 5V
    • Charging cut-off voltage: 4.2V ± 1%
    • Maximum charging current: 1000mA
    • Battery over-discharge overvoltage protection: 2.5V
    • Installed overcurrent protection current: 3A
    • Board size: 2.6*1.7CM

    In fact, this is a separate board that is used in a power bank, and if you buy an additional USB output, you can charge your phone

    Let's start remaking

    Disassembled view of the flashlight and the first stage of assembly
    Now, about the conversion of the flashlight itself to use a battery instead of batteries, most flashlights use 3 AA 1.5 V in size, comparable to a mobile battery, and fits quite well in the main body, you just have to expand the seat. After simple manipulations, having unscrewed or cut out all the excess, we mount all the parts in place using hot-melt adhesive.

    Scheme for converting an LED flashlight Solder all the parts in place using a heat gun If necessary, you can increase the capacity by connecting 2 batteries We get a modernized headlamp with a mini USB input

    In conclusion: the LED flashlight worked actively for 3 nights on old telephone batteries without recharging. Perhaps it would have been enough for more, I didn’t test it before the cutoff. Lithium batteries do not like to be completely discharged. Overall, very pleased at the cost of 140 rubles. The only thing is that it is very bright, which is not always necessary. I was pleased with the presence of charge indicators on the board. When charging via USB, it glows red when the battery is charged blue.

    Almost any flashlight can be converted in this way, the only question is the size of the battery. For example, iPhone batteries are not very practical, and if you tear off the contacts from the connection board carelessly, they will not be soldered.

    Do not use lithium batteries if they are swollen - it is unsafe!

    It happens that the protection on the board is triggered, and you need to revive it, in this case, apply voltage from the power supply or power bank. If the phone batteries are very old, then the protection of the headlamp will naturally work faster and it will go out. Although batteries from an old Nokia (more than 4 years old) work properly.

    Save money when purchasing and, accordingly, buy cheaper (this is when % from the purchase accumulates). So you just install a browser extension and the money gradually accumulates on its own.

    Types of batteries for flashlights

    Despite the wide variety of batteries for flashlights, all of them can be divided into built-in or removable. Built-in models are not discussed in this article. Removable batteries for flashlights are divided into several types:

    1. Lithium-ion standard.
    2. Lithium-ion specialized.
    3. Nickel metal hydride.
    4. Lead-acid.
    • Lithium-ion (Li-Ion) batteries have the best parameters and are widely used in almost all types of flashlights. Most flashlight models are designed to work with Li-Ion batteries of standard sizes.
      high current battery Sony US 18650 VTC4 30A 2100mAh, without protection

      LiNiMnCoO2 battery

    • Capacity 2100 mAh
    • High current output up to 30A
    • Does not have a protective board against overcharge and overdischarge
    • Low self-discharge
    • Works even at low temperatures

    390

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  • Specialized lithium-ion batteries are available for a specific flashlight model.
    battery for headlamp Petzl ACCU CORE
      Petzl branded Li-Ion battery
  • Replaces 3 AAA batteries
  • Capacity 1250 mAh
  • Has a MicroUSB connector for charging outside the flashlight
  • 2 480

    ₽ In stock

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  • Nickel-metal hydride (and formerly nickel-cadmium) rechargeable batteries continue to be used in some flashlight models.
    battery Panasonic 2500 mAh R6/AA Eneloop Pro 3HCDE/4BE-4BL
      Size AA
  • Voltage 1.2V
  • Capacity 2500 mAh
  • High current efficiency
  • Nickel metal hydride battery
  • 520

    ₽ In stock

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  • 4v lead acid batteries are used in large portable flashlights or emergency lighting systems.
    battery Delta DT 401
      Ideal for use in low current systems
  • High energy density
  • Does not require topping up distillate
  • AGM gas recombination technology
  • 181

    ₽ In stock

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