All about the pump for pumping oil out of the engine: do it yourself


Pros and cons of changing oil through the dipstick

The advantages of this method are obvious to everyone:

  1. It's easy to do. There is no need to unscrew the engine protection, remove the drain bolts and first drive the car into the pit. Of course, this does not apply to those cars where you have to crawl under the car to change the oil filter.
  2. It's free. Once you have purchased such a device, you can use it for a very long time. In this case, you do not need to spend 250-300 rubles for a replacement.

As for the disadvantages:

  1. There is a possibility that combustion products of additives and oil remain at the bottom. This is not certain, so it cannot be confirmed. The opinions of experts on this matter are contradictory.
  2. Sometimes it is not possible to pump out all the oil. This is possible if it is very viscous (dense) or the car is on a slope.
  3. No benefit for cars where the filter is replaced in a pit.

Notes malykh.com

Bad experience with syringes for filling transmission oil

Several times I tried to simplify the filling of transmission oil.
But somehow it wasn’t very successful. At first I tried to use a cheap plastic syringe. Something like this:

I had to take the photo from the Internet because I threw away my copy. This syringe turned out to be very bad. The seal is very poor: after a couple of replacements, the syringe began to leak oil from all the cracks. I highly recommend it.

After such an unsuccessful experience, I decided to buy a more expensive and metal syringe. I still have this copy:

Even the markings are readable. Auto repairman AMS4105:

At first it was good. Better than the plastic version. But then this syringe also caused disappointment.

First of all, the included tube is bad. It quickly became stiff from the oil and began to fly off the syringe.

  • mobil mobilux ep 2 grease

Secondly, the metal surface of the syringe is somehow strange. It is very difficult to wipe off the oil; because of this, the syringe always feels greasy to the touch, which makes it difficult to use and store.

Thirdly, the usage scenario is not entirely clear. Now I need to fill the oil from the canister. What to do? The syringe pumps out rather tightly, filling with oil by extending the piston is a very leisurely process. And if you just pour oil inside, you need to unscrew the slippery lid, which is also not very convenient.

Fourthly, over time the piston began to leak oil.

In general, I’m tired of all this (I mentioned this when I was looking for a new oil), the syringe is lying around idle. And for filling I use used Castrol gear oil cans (1, 2). Surprisingly, they last a long time (unlike very old Shell cans). They don't leak. And if you carefully add oil, they remain relatively clean on the outside. In fact, there is only one problem: if you squeeze the oil slightly upward (when it does not flow by gravity), then you cannot squeeze out the canister completely, you have to top it up (it’s good if there is a supply of oil).

And to pour oil into the wheel gearboxes, I used a metal oil can, since access there is very difficult (you can’t even get to it with a canister), and the volume is small.

Device for changing oil through dipstick

This device is quite simple, and its operating principle is based on creating a pressure difference inside and outside the container. It consists of:

  1. Main tank.
  2. A pump for pumping air out of the tank and creating a pressure difference.
  3. A hose through which oil will flow from the oil pan.

The process looks like this:

  1. Combine all these elements. That is, connect the hose to the tank, insert the pump into it from above.
  2. Insert the hose into the hole for the oil dipstick until it stops. That is, until the tip of the hose rests on the bottom of the pan. The hose itself is quite thin, so it easily penetrates the hole.
  3. You pump out the air and create a pressure difference. You need to pump until it becomes hard.
  4. Afterwards the pump can be removed. Due to the presence of a check valve in the main tank, the pressure inside will not go anywhere. Engine oil will begin to slowly flow into the main tank.

Depending on what viscosity of oil is used and what condition it is in, the process of changing the oil through the dipstick will last about 10-15 minutes. It rarely lasts 20 minutes if the replacement is carried out on a car with a large engine.

Option with automatic transmission ↑

Since in mechanics everything is simple with a change, let’s consider an automatic transmission. There are many ways to change the fluid, including:

  • from below, from above, with removal of the hose, complete disconnection of the pipes.

About each, separately:

  1. Below: we drive into the inspection hole and unscrew the drain plug from the crankcase. We place an empty container under the hole and wait for the drain to finish. For most passenger cars, the average consumption rate is 4 - 5 liters. The procedure should be carried out quickly so that the liquid does not cool down. Before starting, warm up the engine for 5 minutes, or drive 2-3 km. Be sure to remove the dipstick to eliminate the vacuum plug;
  2. From above: you shouldn’t climb anywhere, drive onto overpasses, just lower the device and the lubricant will be pumped out on its own. For the operation you will need a “Zhane” syringe. You can buy it at any auto store or car market. There we will buy a plastic tube 120 - 140 cm long, maximum one and a half meters. Diameter 0.7 cm. Preferably silicone, with transparent material for ease of visual observation. Another material is also possible, but in this case the liquid will cling to the walls and pumping out will become difficult.

Draining oil with washer pump

This is the same budgetary, but labor-intensive and “dangerous” path. There are a lot of washer pumps - you want them from VAZ, you want them from GAZ, you want them from VAG. But remember - they are not designed for pumping oil, even when heated, which means they can fail at any time.

For example, let’s take the KALUGA ENTS2512 washer pump, which produces a power of 1.1 atmospheres and is powered by 12 Volts. Perfectly suits our conditions. You still need to buy tubes for it - you can take any, but it is better to choose oil- and gasoline-resistant ones, for obvious reasons. Another important parameter will be the internal diameter of the tube - it is 5 millimeters. In order not to deceive yourself, we take 4 meters of such a hose and cut it in half.

Then we need to somehow power this pump. On its body there are 2 male connectors - positive and negative. We buy (or get it by any other possible means) 2 female connectors, 2 wires and crocodiles. We also make sure to buy a syringe - any one, the main thing is that its nozzle fits the cross-section of the tube, it will be useful to us later. We put it all together and get a pump that can be powered from the battery. The main thing is not to confuse the polarity.

After you have decided through which fitting the pump draws liquid, connect the hoses, insert one into the dipstick body, and the other into a container for testing.

We turn it on and... nothing happens. Why? Because these pumps are unable to pick up oil and they need to be helped to take their first steps. This is where the syringe we bought earlier comes into play. When the pump is turned on, through the outlet tube (which goes into the drainage container), you need to pump out a little air from the pumping line - this way the pump will take the liquid and be able to work.

In addition to the materials required above, you should be patient - with this pump you will be pumping out oil for quite a long time, its performance is low. Well, of course, as we have already warned you, it can fail at any moment.

Oh yes, these VAZ crafts also love to leak, so don’t be surprised if something happens.

Description

Mobilux EP 0, 1, 2, 3, 004 and 023 are a high-performance family of four general-purpose industrial lubricants and two specialty low-flow lubricants. These lithium hydroxystearate lubricants are formulated to provide additional protection against wear, rust and water wash-out. They are available in NLGI classes from 00 to 3, with base oil viscosities ISO VG 150 and 320.

Mobilux EP 0, 1, 2 and 3 greases are recommended for most types of industrial applications, including heavy-duty applications where high pressure or shock loads are present. These lubricants provide excellent protection against rust and corrosion, and also prevent water washout, making them especially suitable for equipment where wet or humid conditions are common. Mobilux EP 0 and 1 are suitable for centralized systems. Mobilux EP 2 and 3 are general purpose lubricants. The recommended operating temperature range is -20ºC to 130ºC, but they can be used at higher temperatures if the lubrication frequency is increased accordingly.

Mobilux EP 004 and Mobilux EP 023 are particularly suitable for the lubrication of enclosed gears and bearings in tightly enclosed gearboxes, they can also be used in many other industrial applications where conventional gear oils cannot be retained in gearboxes, chain housings, etc. ., Because leaks are due to worn or missing seals. The recommended operating temperature range is -20 to 120ºC for Mobilux EP 004 and -20 to 120ºC for Mobilux EP 023.

Oil change devices

There are many devices on the market that allow you to change the oil yourself. Moreover, there are mechanical models in which negative pressure must be created using a hand pump, but there are also electric ones. The first ones are cheap, and their price varies from one thousand to two thousand rubles. More expensive electric models are sold in a very wide price range: from 4 to 15 thousand rubles.

The most popular is the HC 2081 installation with a tank capacity of 80 liters. Of course, it is not intended for one-time use. Such models can be installed at various service stations, where drivers come every day to drain/refuel fuels and lubricants.

As for the usual mechanical device, you can generally make it yourself. You only need a long hose that would fit through the hole for the dipstick with a hard, unbendable tip, a pump to pump out air, and a container where all the oil will flow. The main difficulty here is to create a sealed space inside this container. Otherwise, it will not be possible to create a pressure difference, and the oil will remain in the engine.

How to choose a quality syringe?

Choosing a syringe for filling oil is quite simple. The main thing is to understand for what purposes it is needed. If you plan to use it at home, i.e. To change the oil in the garage, then a conventional device is enough. Professional devices should be purchased for service stations and service centers.

But you shouldn’t skimp on the quality of the syringe. Devices that are too cheap may begin to leak after just a couple of uses and their use will be impractical.

Today consumers prefer brands such as Groz, Licota, Pressol. But it’s best to consult with a specialist in the store before purchasing. It will help you choose the most optimal syringe.

Pumping oil through the dipstick - basic methods

There are two main methods for pumping oil out of the engine through the dipstick - using a pump, using a syringe. There is also vacuum pumping, but this method is more complicated than the first two and is generally applicable in service conditions. We invite you to familiarize yourself with the methods that you can apply even in the parking lot in front of your house.

We warn you: these methods of draining engine oil do not have the same effect as draining oil through a plug. The plug is located at the lowest point of the crankcase, so the maximum amount of old oil is removed through it. The methods described in the article cope with this to a maximum of 95-98%. But this is not scary, because with every oil change, the oil filter is also changed, which will easily absorb all the crap that remains in the oil pan.

Also, before this method of changing the oil, the engine needs to be thoroughly warmed up - this way the oil will get maximum fluidity, which means it will drain through the dipstick as efficiently as possible.

Mobil Mobilux EP 2 plastic. min. (18kg) 143992

Mobilux EP 0, 1, 2, 3, 460, 004 are part of a family of five general-purpose industrial greases and two high-performance semi-fluid specialty greases. Thickened with lithium hydroxystearate, these greases provide exceptional protection against wear, rust and water washout. They are available in the NLGI 00 to 3 range with base oil viscosity grades ISO 150, 320 and 460. Mobilux EP 0, 1, 2, 3, 460 are recommended for most types of industrial equipment, including those operating in harsh conditions. high specific pressures or shock loads. These greases provide excellent rust and corrosion protection and are resistant to water washout, making them particularly suitable for use in equipment where moisture is common. Mobilux EP 0 and 1 are suitable for centralized lubrication systems. Mobilux EP 2 and 3 are multipurpose greases and Mobilux EP 460 is used in paper machines operating under severe conditions in the presence of moisture. The recommended operating temperature range is -20°C to 130°C (0°C to 130°C for Mobilux EP 460), but they can be used at higher temperatures if lubrication intervals are increased accordingly. Mobilux EP 004 is particularly suitable for the lubrication of closed gears and bearings in poorly sealed gearboxes; They can also be used in many other applications, such as gearboxes, chain cases, etc., where conventional gear oils cannot be used due to leakage due to wear or missing seals. The recommended operating temperature range is from -25 ° C to 120 ° C. Features and benefits: - Reduced wear under conditions of high or shock loads and vibration, ensuring high reliability and safety of equipment. - Rust and corrosion protection and washout resistance to protect equipment and provide reliable lubrication even in the presence of water. — Extended bearing life in wet environments to reduce maintenance costs and reduce unscheduled downtime. — Good pumpability in centralized lubrication systems (Mobilux EP 0 and 1) — Effective leakage prevention (Mobilux EP 004 and Mobilux EP 023) Application: Mobilux EP 0 and Mobilux EP 1 provide good low-temperature pumpability and are suitable for use in centralized lubrication systems and others applications where high low temperature performance is required. Mobilux EP 2 is recommended as a universal lubricant for anti-friction and plain bearings, bushings, pins and other friction units under normal operating conditions. Mobilux EP 3 is an NLGI Class 3 grease recommended for use where maximum protection against ingress of water or solid contaminants is required. Mobilux EP 460 is recommended for the lubrication of heavily loaded bearings operating at low to moderate speeds, including bearings subject to high specific pressures or shock loads. These include bearings in steel mills, paper mills, mining equipment, tunneling equipment, ore processing equipment and other equipment operating in harsh environments where moisture is common. Mobilux EP 004 is particularly suitable for the lubrication of closed gears and bearings in poorly sealed gearboxes on most mining machines, with the exception of electric motor gears. Mobilux EP 004 is particularly suitable for the lubrication of closed gears and bearings in poorly sealed gearboxes; They can also be used in many other applications, such as gearboxes, chain cases, etc., where conventional gear oils cannot be used due to leakage due to wear or missing seals. Mobilux EP 004 withstands 1008 hour gear test and meets the modified requirements of DR.EM.203.

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