How to install an engine from a walk-behind tractor on an ant - Gardener's Diary Agro7group.ru


Ant + lifan 188f

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Vasilev Adept Messages: 279 Registered: Sun Nov 11, 2012 9:23 pm

Ant + lifan 188f

Post by Vasilev » Wed Jul 08, 2015 5:12 pm
Meanwhile, I took Ant for repair and installed a Lifan 188f engine (400 cm3, 13 hp)

Would it be interesting to create one on the forum, although I don’t know in which section))?

Yes, does anyone know why the steering wheel chatters at any speed? The bushings seem to be alive, there are no backlashes...

Vasilev Adept Messages: 279 Registered: Sun Nov 11, 2012 9:23 pm

Re: Shket-2 or bierkisten in Russian

Post by Vasilev » Wed Jul 08, 2015 11:57 pm
When disassembling the fork, I found a spring inside, as it turned out it was a standard steering damper. And the spring tension knob was missing. I found it in spare parts, I'll check it tomorrow))

ilya38 Super technician Posts: 528 Registered: Mon Oct 24, 2011 8:34 am

Re: Shket-2 or bierkisten in Russian

Post by ilya38 » Thu Jul 09, 2015 4:47 am

In the meantime, I took Ant for repairs and installed a Lifan 188f engine (400 cm3, 13 hp). Would it be interesting to create one on the forum, although I don’t know in which section))?

Of course it’s interesting, instead of a CVT transmission???

Vasilev Adept Messages: 279 Registered: Sun Nov 11, 2012 9:23 pm

Re: Shket-2 or bierkisten in Russian

Post by Vasilev » Thu Jul 09, 2015 11:22 am
Without CVT and gearbox. They asked me to drive 30 km per hour. The scooter will be used to transport small loads such as potatoes from the field)

In general, it all started with the fact that a man bought an ant for 6,000, supposedly after capital, and he just needed to install a magneto and connect the electrics.

An autopsy showed that there was nothing to start there; the engine was simply washed.

We decided to install another motor, but the person is very worried about its warranty, so the alterations must be reversible)

To begin with, I went through the gearbox and moved the star to the other side. I sawed off all the excess from the frame to mark the engine.

In the end it's like this:

Intermediate shaft and exhaust manifold:

I moved the reverse to the other side. I made the handle longer:

Secured the tank:

At the moment, due to the lack of the necessary sprockets, the gear ratio is 13:1 (I plan about 9-10), the maximum speed is 21 km/h (without the limiter removed). The traction is good, it would be interesting to ride with the original engine.

Old Man-XO Super Technician Posts: 312 Registered: Sat Apr 04, 2009 6:21 pm

Re: Shket-2 or bierkisten in Russian

Post by Old Man-XO » Mon Jul 13, 2015 12:51 pm
It’s right that they didn’t bother with the original engine, it can’t hold a candle to this Chinese. This “Ant” doesn’t need speed, so you can do without a variator, the only thing that wasn’t worth saving on was an electric starter; it would be more convenient with it. My “scotch-mobile” is built exactly on the basis of the rear part of the “ant”; the engine costs 9 l/s. trailer with cabbage 200-250kg. takes it out of the field. I replaced the wheels on my car with “Zhiguli” ones and I advise you to do the same: a wider wheel with a larger diameter goes better and easier on bad roads. I’ll tell you how to install wheels without turning if you decide and you don’t need to change the gearbox with Zhiguli wheels it will run faster.

Vasilev Adept Messages: 279 Registered: Sun Nov 11, 2012 9:23 pm

Re: Shket-2 or bierkisten in Russian

Post by Vasilev » Mon Jul 13, 2015 4:34 pm
I also initially advised them to buy a motor with an electric starter, but as it turned out, it starts just fine. Almost always without getting off the ant the first time. Yesterday I already managed to burn out the clutch))) I went to test the cross-country ability. I came across an area between a field and a forest with a firebreak... My wheels got into a 20-30 cm rut with solid boulders and I drove for about 100 meters until I realized that the clutch was stinking, and there was nowhere to go I had to drive to a more or less level place. I think it would be difficult even for a tractor there. But the ant still made it home. And this is with a “high-speed” frequency converter (9:1), I’ll change it to 11:1 and I’ll calm down, a speed of ~25 km/h will be enough, I still won’t go on the road...

I temporarily secured the clutch disc from an ant, welding its joint to the machined disc)):

Vasilev Adept Messages: 279 Registered: Sun Nov 11, 2012 9:23 pm

Re: Shket-2 or bierkisten in Russian

Post by Vasilev » Tue Jul 14, 2015 10:19 am
The star on the motor is 15 teeth from an ant. I ground it inside and placed it on a tube with a welded key.

They are sold ready-made for a 428 chain, but it was easier for me to do than to go to the city to look for them.

The chain does not fly off, but now, just in case, I am installing a tensioner-calculator.

Vasilev Adept Messages: 279 Registered: Sun Nov 11, 2012 9:23 pm

Re: Shket-2 or bierkisten in Russian

Post by Vasilev » Tue Jul 14, 2015 4:45 pm
Well, I hope the last improvements are made.

A damper from a chain tensioner shoe like a Niva and a broken furniture gas elevator. I shortened everything, inserted a spring into the gas elevator, and instead of hinges, a piece of chain)):

I replaced the throttle handle with a bike trigger, otherwise it was due to the rev limiter spring and vibration of the throttle handle at 2800-3300 rpm. the hand gets tired). Of course, it was necessary to immediately make a frame for the engine with dampers... Vibration is annoying only on the gas handle.

Well, I replaced the muffler with a shortened one (minus 200mm) from 2108, the sound became quieter, but not as much as I thought:

Viktor 159 Interested Messages: 32 Registered: Mon Nov 05, 2012 5:44 pm

Re: Shket-2 or bierkisten in Russian

Post by Viktor 159 » Sun Jul 26, 2015 2:16 pm

Old Man-XO wrote: It’s right that they didn’t bother with the original engine, it can’t hold a candle to this Chinese. This “Ant” doesn’t need speed, so you can do without a variator, the only thing that wasn’t worth saving on was an electric starter; it would be more convenient with it. My “scotch-mobile” is built exactly on the basis of the rear part of the “ant”; the engine costs 9 l/s. trailer with cabbage 200-250kg. takes it out of the field. I replaced the wheels on my car with “Zhiguli” ones and I advise you to do the same: a wider wheel with a larger diameter goes better and easier on bad roads. I’ll tell you how to install wheels without turning if you decide and you don’t need to change the gearbox with Zhiguli wheels it will run faster.

“Old Man-XO” can I have some information about the wheels? mail

I’ll tell you how to install wheels without turning if you decide and you don’t need to change the gearbox with Zhiguli wheels it will run faster.

Vasilev Adept Messages: 279 Registered: Sun Nov 11, 2012 9:23 pm

Re: Shket-2 or bierkisten in Russian

Post by Vasilev » Sun Jul 26, 2015 3:35 pm
By the way, the ant has a problem with the clutch. On the roads it’s fine even with a load, but as soon as you drive out into a field with tall grass, the discs overheat and crumble. Gear ratio 12:1. Apparently due to the low speed and poor cooling (because of the tall grass you can’t go fast, you can’t see what’s ahead). I've already replaced 2 sets. Most likely, the gearbox with clutch will be removed and sold, and in its place I will put a homemade centrifugal dry one or buy a ready-made one from a technomaster, maybe even with a two-stage gearbox.

Making a simple trailer for a walk-behind tractor with your own hands

It is difficult to completely repeat an existing product design, since each of us has our own set of materials and components, homemade experience and operating conditions for the trailer. The main design elements are the suspension and frame, so we’ll start with their consideration.

Often, the rear Zhiguli beam along with hubs from front-wheel drive cars is used as the basis for the suspension. The solution is simple and reliable.

The beam is welded to the trailer frame in a vertical position. At the same time, the loading platform turns out to be quite high. The beam dictates the dimensions of the trailer, so it is heavy and of substantial size. For a weak walk-behind tractor

with an air engine this option is useless.

To reduce the dimensions of the suspension, you can cut out the central part of the beam, and instead weld a pipe with a cross-section of 50x50 mm of the required length to the hubs as an axis. The version of the stroller shown in the photo is easily rearranged by an adult with his hands. The manufacturing process of this structure can be assessed in more detail using the following video.

Theoretically, you can use the rear beam from any passenger car. In this case, it is more convenient to use the rear suspension of a front-wheel drive car with the least possible weight and size. The suspension of the Oka car is well suited for load capacity.

The photo shows two options for trailers with a rear axle from a classic VAZ as an axle. The gearbox should be removed and its place covered with a metal plate with bolts. The axle shafts must be pulled out, cut to 200 mm and inserted back. Practice has shown that they successfully stay on the bearings and do not come out. The bridge is welded to the frame with two jibs on each side.

A trailer with soft suspension is noticeably more comfortable, although more complex. The load does not bounce in the cart at every bump, and the driver’s “fifth point” does not experience unnecessary overloads. Probably, installing springs and springs at the same time is clearly overkill. At the same time, making levers on silent blocks and installing springs is not so difficult.

The trolley for transporting bulk materials must be folding. In this example, the frame is made from a 50x50 mm corner. Hinges are welded to its rear and body. The trolley axis is located exactly at the center of gravity of the load. To unload the trailer, you need to place it on a stand, disconnect it from the walk-behind tractor, and then tilt it, lifting the drawbar up. Be careful not to move the drawbar suddenly.

see also

Comments 36

Hello, tell me how the Bright engine has proven itself? I want to install a similar one on a homemade product, but I haven’t found any information on it on the Internet.

Has it become quiet (in terms of noise) and economical? But it’s a cool idea to convert both two-wheeled electrons and tourists

The noise is probably the same, it all depends on the muffler, mine is homemade. But the exhaust sound is more pleasant, you can immediately hear that the powerful engine is working, reminiscent of powerful Japanese motorcycles.

Thank you very much for your experience... it will be very useful to me)))

I installed 125 cc 4-stroke on my ant, I had to assemble the gearbox in a mirror image so that the star would be on the other side, gear shifting under the original foot, a home-made exhaust for it, now you can quietly sneak up on a person on an ant and you can’t hear him, it starts with just a push and I don’t bother with spark plugs, I only need Akum to start from the button, it works without Akum,

( 1 rating, average 4 out of 5 )

Photos and descriptions of interesting options

DIYers have already come up with a considerable number of original trailer options. Perhaps one of the following will suit you as a sample.

The small dump truck has small wheels, a simple frame design and no brakes. At the same time, making a tipping trailer is not at all difficult; you just need to provide turning hinges and provide for fixing the body when moving.

A two-axis option is also possible. Such a trolley is suitable for transporting heavy and bulky cargo paired with a powerful walk-behind tractor; in this case, a rotating mechanism for the front axle is required and a braking system will obviously not be superfluous.

It is very smart to use part of the structure from a heavy motorcycle. In this case, a soft suspension with springs and shock absorbers is provided. The wheels of the motorcycle are light in weight and fit well with the load. A luxurious car seat increases the comfort of movement.

Seeing a wide bench, it’s hard to resist saying: “Give us a ride on your tractor, Petrusha.” If two people are going to use the walk-behind tractor, of course, you should provide appropriate seating.

READ Make Your Own Table for a Circular Saw

If you have to transport hay, you should provide high sides. To do this, you need nests along the perimeter of the sides.

Just like a mining dump truck, not a trolley for a walk-behind tractor. However, the powerful water-cooled engine allows for the transportation of large amounts of soil.

This unsightly-looking option seemed the most practical. The loading platform is located low, which makes loading easier and increases the trailer's stability when driving. Suspension with springs and shock absorbers plus a car seat promise comfort to the driver of the motor vehicle. In general, if not a Mercedes, then it will definitely be a cool bike.

TRAILER FOR MOTORBLOCK AND MOTOR SCOOTER ANT

Probably, such a car is not even a “Zaporozhets”?! At least he has a trunk in front, but here, where should I put the cargo? The owner will have to sit on a pile of sand...

Characteristics of the Ant scooter

The scooter is distinguished by high maneuverability and maneuverability, as well as small dimensions. In the garage it will take up as much space as a heavy motorcycle with a sidecar. The Soviet scooter "Ant", which is still popular, has the following technical characteristics:

  • Length – 2.68 m.
  • Width – 1.25 m.
  • Height – 1.07 m.
  • Dry weight – 240 kg.
  • Load capacity – 250 kg.
  • Speed ​​– about 30 km/h.
  • Gasoline engine, two-stroke, 11 hp.
  • 4-speed gearbox + reverse.
  • Drum brakes with mechanical drive on each wheel.

Among fans of this brand, there is an opinion that the scooter is not inferior in performance properties to its Western counterparts.

Among the advantages of a moped it is worth noting:

  • Small turning radius – 3.5 m.
  • The lightness of the Ant scooter; motorcycles significantly predominate in weight.
  • Low cost - only used devices are available on the market.

There are also disadvantages:

  • There are a lot of used equipment on the market.
  • The engine has high fuel consumption - from 8 liters. per 100 km. But more often this figure is closer to 10 - 11 liters. per 100 km. due to increased wear.
  • Frequent breakdowns due to low reliability, especially of the engine.

Ant owners have the most questions about the engine. After all, I want to moderate my appetite for fuel consumption.

Cylinder

Unfortunately, you can’t really check anything in the cylinder by eye. Therefore, we inspect his mirror for damage and that’s it.

Example of a new cylinder mirror

Example of a mirror after boring

Rings

When purchasing new rings, stick them into the cylinder (new or after boring) and check for clearance

  • If the rings fit tightly, we buy
  • If the rings do not fit the mirror, try others

An example of a perfect fit of a ring to a mirror (“Ant”)

After checking for fit, we put the rings on the piston and measure the gap between the ring and the piston groove with a feeler gauge.

  • If the gap is greater than 0.01-0.02 mm, try another ring
  • If after several tried rings the gap is larger than expected, we try another piston

READ Assembling the Gearbox of the Motoblock Zubr

Voskhod piston with a clearance that obviously exceeds all conceivable standards

“Ant” piston with permissible clearance

Materials used:

  1. motor scooter ant produced in 1981.
  2. Lifan 11 l/s petrol engine.
  3. belt.
  4. VAZ video.
  5. shaft.
  6. pulley 2 pcs.
  7. plate 10 mm.

I started installing the new engine by dismantling the old engine and then washing, cleaning and reassembling it, so in the future I planned to use it as a gearbox for the new engine.

This is the condition the scooter was in before the repair.

Dismantling the old engine.

A new internal combustion engine was purchased.

Next, I tried on the new engine in place of the original one, since it was larger in size and had to cut off the tubes on which the seat and trim are installed.

To connect the engine and gearbox, I decided to use a belt drive. To do this, I bought 2 identical pulleys from a walk-behind tractor, but with the original mounting diameter of 25 mm for the internal combustion engine and 19 mm for the gearbox shaft, which I ordered from a turner. Instead of a crankshaft to reduce vibration, because cutting the connecting rod will upset the balancing of the crankshaft, and this is not a buzz. All dimensions were removed from the crankshaft with only the change to the pulley.

While I was waiting for a new shaft, I went through the gearbox and stuck it on the frame, twisting the old engine mounts and welding them in a new place, the most convenient thing is that with this arrangement of the new engine, its rotation coincides with the rotation of the original engine, which means there is no need to worry about the gearbox, turning it over and move it to the other side, etc. I placed the gearbox mount in the middle of the supporting frame pipe, aligning them exactly vertically and at a distance from the corresponding gearbox mounts, simply welding them.

Next, a piece of plywood (template) was cut out, which I used to cut a 10 mm slab from the slab for mounting the internal combustion engine.

Using a high-precision rack, the internal combustion engine was aligned along the pulleys, holes were drilled in the plate and the engine was secured and a tension ex was installed (later it was replaced with a VAZ roller because it has sides that prevent the belt from slipping).

I bought a longer clutch cable and carried out the first “test drive” which showed that this system would exist. I began a complete disassembly of this scooter with replacement of bearings and much more for subsequent cleaning of dirt and old paint and subsequent painting and assembly.

To summarize: the engine power is enough for the eyes. The gear ratio of the internal combustion engine and gearbox is 1:1. The maximum speed is 45-50 km/h, which is quite enough on rural roads.

The process of replacing the internal combustion engine on an Ant scooter can also be seen in this video:

Homemade author: Alexey Kochnev.

Vehicle Upgrades

If your old bicycle, scooter or motorcycle breaks down, you should not sell the equipment for scrap. There is also no need to rush into buying a new motor. It can be replaced with a power unit from a light motor cultivator. There is only one restriction: such a car cannot be driven on public roads. But the Ant scooter with a walk-behind tractor engine can be used in the country for trips to a field or river. 5-6 hp engine quite enough to accelerate the moped to a speed of 50-60 km/h. Before installing the engine on a bicycle, it is necessary to install reinforced wheels on this vehicle that can withstand a weight of up to 100 kg.

In order to assemble a scooter with a walk-behind tractor engine, you will need the following tools and materials:

  • welding machine;
  • grinder with metal discs;
  • electric drill;
  • wrench;
  • screwdriver;
  • pliers;
  • level;
  • hammer;
  • dye.

In order to install the power unit on the Ant, you will need to create a frame for it.

This is done in the following sequence:

  1. Drawings are drawn up, precise calculations of the frame configuration and attachment points are made. It is recommended to check the calculations on soft aluminum strips.
  2. The mounting bracket is welded. It is treated with anti-corrosion agents and holes are drilled for the bolts.
  3. The engine is carefully placed on the bracket and secured with bolts. The installation accuracy is checked and the position is adjusted.
  4. The motor is connected to the vehicle's chassis using a belt or chain. Gear shift cables and control levers are secured.
  5. Checking the functionality of the vehicle. The created homemade product needs to be run in so that all the parts get used to each other. You need to spend 6-8 hours on this with the engine running at medium speed.

If you have experience in handling household tools and knowledge in electrical engineering, you can assemble an electric excavator with your own hands. This will require channels, hinges, cables and a working electric motor. The bucket is made of sheet steel, which can be purchased inexpensively at scrap metal collection points.

How to Connect an Ant Engine and a Motoblock Engine

Nowadays, the development of agricultural machinery has reached its best development. It’s hard to imagine a modern farmer without a cultivator or walk-behind tractor.

For convenient and comfortable use of the walk-behind tractor, it is made from an old Ant scooter. With such equipment it will be comfortable to move around the cultivated area, transport harvested crops, humus, agricultural tools, even firewood, garbage and everything else.

Branded walk-behind tractor Ant

First of all, you need to find an old scooter and decide what size areas will be processed. This affects the power of the walk-behind tractor motor. The Ant scooter with an engine from a walk-behind tractor is converted into a real walk-behind tractor according to the standard classical scheme:

  1. Frame.
  2. Engine.
  3. Chassis based on 2 wheels.

Secondary parts are attached to the vehicle walk-behind tractor which of course will be very necessary for further use of the device:

Following from the above, the necessary elements for the production of a walk-behind tractor are a frame, engine, wheels, steering wheel, seat and electrical equipment.

The elements of the walk-behind tractor are placed on the frame for our client. The frame design consists of two spars, which are made of an inch and a quarter metal pipe. The front and rear ends of the side members are bent upward, the rear ends need to be bent towards each other and later connected by welding. At the control control production stage, the Izh bike and its spare parts are used.

Homemade walk-behind tractor with a motor from Ant

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The control structure from the bike is welded to the rear ends of the side members. To tension the chain of the first stage of the box, you need to connect the side members lengthwise with several cross members. The platform for the battery and other parts also serve as cross members. The gearbox housing, which is part of the frame assembly, in addition to its own functions, also functions as a rack between the chassis and the power unit. For transporting cargo with a trailer, you can hook up a two-axle cart to one of the rear parts of the crankcase.

How to make a homemade walk-behind tractor with an ant gearbox

A two-stage chain gearbox is designed to reduce the rotation speed and increase the torque transmitted from the output shaft of the power unit of the walk-behind tractor to the wheels or cutters.

Chain gear drawing

1 - body made of channel No. 20); 2 - cover made of Art. sheet s5); 3 — gasket made of oil and petrol resistant technical plate) 4 — second stage drive sprocket (z = 11, t = 19.05); 5—key; 6 — bearing 206 (2 pcs.); 7— compensation sleeve; 8 - shaft; 9 — nut M22x1.5 with a spring washer; 10 - oil seal; 11 — spacer bushing with keyway; 12—eccentric bearing housing (StZ, 2 pcs.); 13 — M8 screw with spring washer (30 pcs.);

14 — driven sprocket of the second stage (z = 25, t = 19.05); 15— bearing 3008 (2 pcs.); 16 — bearing housing; 17 — sealing sleeve; 18 — left axle shaft; 19—oil drain plug (M10 screw); 20 - bottom of the body from Art. sheet s4); 21 — oil filler plug (screw Ml0); 22,23 — oil seals (2 pieces each); 24 — right axle shaft; 25 — M6 fixing screws (8 pcs.); 26 — M8 bolt; 27 - chain t = 19.05; 28 — driven sprocket of the first stage (z = 57, t = 12.7); 29 — spacer sleeve

The first stage of the gearbox includes two sprockets with 17 and 57 teeth, respectively, with a pitch of 12.75 mm. The drive sprocket with 17 teeth sits on the output shaft of the power unit, the driven sprocket sits on the outer flange of the second stage input shaft.

The second stage of the gearbox is reinforced and has a drive sprocket of 11 teeth and a driven sprocket of 25 teeth, a tooth pitch of 19.05 mm. Since during the operation of the walk-behind tractor, the second stage is located close to the cultivated soil, it is protected from dust by a closed crankcase, which is directly connected by welding to the cross members, and the crankcase side members are connected by welding through steel spacers.

A strut is welded between the crankcase and the cross member for reliability. The crankcase is welded from two channels No. 2 with shelves that are reduced in length to 35 mm. In the lower parts, the walls of the channels have the shape of a semicircle; instead of cut shelves, a bottom is welded from a 4 mm steel sheet, which is curved along the walls of the channels in the shape of a semi-cylinder. The top of the crankcase is closed with a cover with a gasket made of oil- and petrol-resistant technical plate.

Two coaxial holes d = 100 mm are made in both walls for bearing housings. Around each of them there are six other threaded holes with M8 threads, the purpose of which is to fasten the housings to the crankcase. The lower axle shaft bearings have normal housings, while the upper shaft bearings have eccentric housings. By rotating them around their axis by at least 15°, the tension of the chain of the second stage of the gearbox is adjusted in steps.

The shaft of the second stage of the gearbox is mounted in two ball bearings 206. By means of two spacers, the drive sprocket is fixed exactly in the middle between the inner walls of the crankcase and connected to the shaft by means of a feather key. On the centering boss of the right axle shaft sits a large driven sprocket, secured with six M8 bolts between the opposing flanges of the axle shafts. The lower part of the large driven sprocket and part of the chain are constantly immersed in oil.

When the walk-behind tractor engine is running, the moving chain transfers oil to the upper part of the crankcase - thus lubrication of the rubbing parts of the second stage is organized. To prevent oil leakage, oil seals are provided in the bearing housings. A rigid flange connection of the axle shafts forms a single shaft mounted in two 308 ball bearings.

Dynastarter

However, it is not only the engine that can make a motorcyclist clearly see all the components of his motorcycle. The most common problem is a problem with the dynastarter . The engineers of the Tula plant installed it in Muravya, instead of a conventional alternating current generator.

Why is it so important? If you notice a red light on the instrument panel while the moped is running, it means you are running out of charge. This happens because the generator is not producing alternating current. To begin with, in such a situation, it is necessary to check the integrity of the wires connected to the dynastarter and the relay regulator. If everything is in order, then the problem lies directly in the dynastarter. There may be three main causes of problems:

  • difficulty in rotor operation (dirt getting into the collector or dust accumulation);
  • freezing or wear of brushes;
  • violation of the integrity of electrical equipment.

Since in most cases the operation of the dynastarter is difficult due to contamination of the collector, it is worth carrying out a simple disassembly according to the instructions described in the moped operating book. The main rules when working are neatness and cleanliness. After disassembly, be sure to thoroughly rinse all parts in gasoline and lubricate the rubbing parts, and under no circumstances throw away the parts.

User manual

When purchasing a multifunctional Ant unit for your own needs, do not forget to check for an instruction manual. You can download the electronic version of the instructions from the link: Operating instructions for the Ant walk-behind tractor

This manual provides the following information:

  • Safety requirements when working with the device.
  • The structure of a walk-behind tractor in diagrams and drawings.
  • Step-by-step assembly of the Ant walk-behind tractor.
  • First start-up, running-in of the unit.
  • Common breakdowns, as well as their causes and solutions.
  • Walk-behind tractor maintenance.

The instructions contain the necessary diagrams and photos of all components of the unit, as well as a detailed description that allows you to correctly assemble the walk-behind tractor from a set of parts (the walk-behind tractor comes from the store in a semi-assembled state, the owner will have to assemble the unit himself).

First start

The first start-up followed by running-in is a crucial moment for the owner of the unit. It is during this period that all moving parts of the engine are ground in, ensuring a long service life in the future. Initially, you should warm up the unit at idle, then, gradually increasing the speed, go through the first and second speeds. Run-in lasts about 25 hours, during which all work should be carried out in a gentle mode at no more than ¾ power.

Basic malfunctions and ways to eliminate them

The brand is represented by a line of gasoline walk-behind tractors, which are characterized by the following malfunctions.


The design of the Ant walk-behind tractor

The engine does not start:

  • fuel filter clogged - replace;
  • Fuel supply hoses are faulty - replace;
  • problems with the carburetor - dirty - sort out and clean, worn out - replace;
  • the magneto is out of order, or its blades are jammed - replace it, adjust the position;
  • the spark plug is smoked - clean and rinse in gasoline;
  • fuel runs out - top up;
  • spark plug burnt out - replace;
  • The tip of the spark plug gets wet - pump and dry, replace the spark plug.

The cutters stopped rotating:

  • stones or clods of earth clog the rotors - cleaning;
  • the clutch cable is loose - adjustment or replacement will help;
  • the bolts are loose - tighten the fasteners.

Gearbox noise:

  • oil is running low - add more;
  • Fasteners are loose - tighten them.

The wheels stopped turning:

  • belts stretched - replacement;
  • fasteners become loose - tighten them;
  • Clutch cable loose - replace.

Maintenance

There are several stages of maintenance:

  • Daily care.
  • Monthly examination.
  • Preservation for the winter.

Before starting work:

  • check the oil level in the crankcase;
  • fuel in the tank;
  • tighten the fasteners.

Upon completion of field work:

  • we clean and wash the walk-behind tractor;
  • wipe and dry;
  • Lubricate the rubbing parts with oil and grease.

Every 25 hours of operation it is necessary to replace the used oil with new one.

To watch online, click on the video ⤵

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source

Part 3. Behind the wheel and Moto - separate components of scooters.

October 1957 - A little information on the dyno starter - a device that acts as a generator and starter on a motor scooter. (Behind the wheel, 1 page).

December 1957 - Description of the chassis of the Tula T-200 passenger scooter. (Behind the wheel, 1 page).

December 1961 - About the K-36 carburetor, which was used on Tourist and TGA-200 (Ant) scooters. (Behind the wheel, 2 pages).

August 1965 - About why the automatic ignition advance was removed. (Behind the wheel, 1 page).

July 1974 - A short article about shock absorbers and their design. In addition, you can find interesting operating diagrams of the shock absorber and general data on the models. (Behind the wheel, 3 pages).

Inverted version of the table.

January 1976 - Detailed information on Soviet tires. There is little to do with scooters, but the types of tires that were used on them are in the table. (Behind the wheel, 3 pages).

March 1976 - General information on spark plugs and some types of their malfunctions. There is a specific connection with scooters only when listing the models of spark plugs and the cars on which they were used. (Behind the wheel, 4 pages).

September 1977 - About the new K-62 carburetor, which replaced the K-36 model and began to be installed on Tulitsa scooters and almost all subsequent scooters and motorcycles of the Tula Machine-Building Plant. (Behind the wheel, 2 pages).

January 1979 - About batteries that were installed on scooters. (Behind the wheel, 1 page).

February 1991 - Carburetor K-65 which replaced the K-62. (Moto, 2 pages).

February 1991 - Some more information about tires. (Moto, 2 pages).

February 1992 - Construction of the front fork, which began to be installed on the Tula 5.951 off-road motorcycle. (Moto, 3 pages).

March 1992 — More about the battery. (Moto, 1 page).

April 1993 - Tula motorcycle gas tank 5.951. (Moto, 2 pages).

July 1993 - Information about old carburetors, of those listed on scooters K-28 and K-36 were installed. (Moto, 2 pages).

April 1994 - Construction of the Ant gearbox and drive suspension, i.e. rear axle as a whole. (Moto, 4 pages).

October 1994 - Information on lamps, in the table at the end there are types of lamps installed on Tula scooters. (Moto, 4 pages).

Same bonus - all articles in one file: part 3.pdf

How to Install an Engine from a Motoblock to an Ant

Branded and homemade walk-behind tractor "Ant"

Today, the Motoblock "Ant" can be a pretty serious builder for the brand. With its help, you can perform various agricultural work on the site, avoiding long and exhausting manual labor. At the same time, its weight is less than 100 kg, which allows the device to be transported in the trunk of a car. Its dimensions are quite compact, do not require special storage conditions, and can be easily placed both in a utility room and in a residential building in a high-rise building in the city. However, since the price for it starts at 25 thousand rubles, it makes obvious sense to make such a walk-behind tractor with your own hands from an old scooter. Especially popular are homemade walk-behind tractors with the engine and gearbox from the Ant

", which in its characteristics is close to similar parts of the installation kit.

Design of a homemade mini-tractor

This design was developed and tested in practice by students of the Kharkov Institute of Mechanization and Electrification of Agriculture.

You can make such a mini-tractor yourself from scrap: various components and parts from old serial machines produced by the domestic industry.

The unit can be equipped with a large set of replaceable trailed and mounted implements. Thanks to this, the walk-behind tractor can be considered a universal assistant in household farming. It can be used for plowing and harrowing, cultivating and hilling, as well as for other operations related to soil cultivation and plant care.

This tractor can also be used in conjunction with a single-axle trolley to transport various household goods, site debris, soil, and sand. To achieve this, the tractor is slightly modified and the driver is placed on a sprung seat in front of the trolley.

The main parts of a homemade mini-tractor are the VP-150M engine, transmission, power take-off system, chassis, control system and towbar. All of them are mounted on a rectangular channel frame. The engine that is most suitable for the walk-behind tractor of this device is

VP-150M from the Electron scooter or its equivalent, with a power of 7.5 hp. With. (5.5 kW), single-cylinder, two-stroke and carburetor. It has a compact integrated gearbox and clutch and is equipped with electronic ignition. It is also valuable that this motor is equipped with a centrifugal fan, because other engines have to be cooled using various “makeshift” forced methods.

You can, of course, use other engines. But for comparison, it is enough to provide basic data on the VP-150M engine. Here, the transmission of torque to the gearbox is carried out by a helical pair of gears with a gear ratio of 3.045.

The gearbox is three-speed with constant mesh gears. The gear ratios by stage are as follows: for first gear - 4.883, for second - 2.888, for third - 1.800. The engine and gearbox are made in one monoblock. There are no special requirements for the operation and maintenance of the engine complete with clutch and gearbox; in this case, they are regulated only by the manufacturer’s recommendations.

The transmission of the walk-behind tractor is mechanical, gear-chain, consisting of a serial differential with reverse (from the Ant cargo scooter), an intermediate shaft, two final drives and a wheel locking mechanism. The intermediate shaft in this mechanism simultaneously serves for power take-off and for mounted implements. Therefore, torque is transmitted from the engine to the intermediate shaft using a chain with a pitch of 12.75, and then to the differential using a chain with a pitch of 15.875 mm. And then, again along the final drive chains with a pitch of 15.875 mm, to the drive wheels. Sprocket Z1 belongs to the engine, Z4 is a set together with the differential, and Z2 and Z3 are from the Voskhod motorcycle.

The intermediate shaft is made of steel 40, it is mounted in two ball bearings No. 180205. Standard flanged housings can be used for them (for example, from decommissioned agricultural machines); fastening to the side cheeks of the transmission casing.

The diameters of the shaft seats should be selected according to the dimensions of the sprocket hubs. The length depends on the width of the transmission housing plus a small margin (for installation on the right side of a double-groove drive pulley with a diameter of 100-120 mm).

As you can see in the photo, this homemade mini-tractor is a two-wheeled machine driven by a person walking behind it.

Ant engine

The Ant was equipped with a motor that was different from others produced by the industry of the Soviet Union. Innovations in its design fueled interest in technology among then ordinary people. And now they are warming up restorers and collectors. The differences are as follows:

  1. Availability of electric starter.
  2. Forced cooling.

The main difference is the presence of an electric starter. This made it possible to start a moped in the same way as a car.

The cooling system fan moves air through the engine casing, removing heat from it. It is worth noting that such a scheme works tolerably.

Factory installed

It is produced by domestic industry at agricultural machinery enterprises. This is a gasoline engine on a two-wheeled platform, capable of both rotating the wheels of the chassis and working cutters for cultivating the soil. "Ant" is capable of processing hard and virgin soil. In addition to the cutters, you can install a plow or holner. Four-stroke gasoline engine

is 7 horsepower. This allows you to plow the soil to a depth of 30 cm. The fuel tank holds up to 3.6 liters of gasoline, the crankcase volume is 0.6 liters.

The transmission is a belt drive and chain reducer with a cast iron pulley. While forward speeds can be switched, reverse provides only one speed. The engine has a manual starting system. Motoblock can provide plowing widths of up to 80 cm. The steering column can be adjusted both vertically and horizontally. The result is a fairly powerful and user-friendly device. The only drawback can be considered the relatively high cost, which makes most owners of summer cottages and playgrounds prefer to make their own copy. A homemade walk-behind tractor will cost several times less, and the consumer quality of the mechanism is not much different from its assembled counterpart.

Development of the walk-behind tractor into more complex homemade devices

A homemade walk-behind tractor can serve as the basis for various more complex units that can be used not only for soil cultivation. Based on homemade products from the Ant motor scooter, you can make a mini tractor, snow blower, towing vehicle or other mechanized device. Making a tractor from “Ant” is especially popular. To do this, a steel rod made of a channel or beam is attached to the walk-behind tractor frame under the engine. Then a sprung two-wheeled cart is made with a seat on top. The springs can be removed from the same scooter.

Another interesting article: What kind of homemade products can be made from a walk-behind tractor

Under the trolley with the seat, the same rod is welded to the frame, which is connected to the walk-behind tractor rod with an overhead coupling with bolted connections. This allows such a tractor from “Ant” to tow quite serious loads. The metal rod will distribute the force across the entire tractor frame. There is every possibility of making a trailer for a walk-behind tractor from Ant. 4 wheels on springs are attached to a frame made of steel beams, and a rectangular platform made of boards or sheet metal with folding sides is mounted on top. On the front side, instead of a tailgate, you can install a driver's seat.

You can make quite a lot of different homemade products from “Ant”. This depends primarily on technical literacy and skills in working with metal and mechanisms. In addition to the old scooter, a variety of parts and mechanisms can be used, otherwise inevitably sent to scrap.

Such home-made devices can radically facilitate a person’s work on a personal plot or summer cottage.

Their main advantage, in addition to their relatively low cost, is that they can be maximally adapted to the specific needs of the owner.

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The three-wheeled ZiD cargo motorcycle with an onboard dump body is designed for delivering various types of cargo over short distances. The LF200ZH-3 trike is economically beneficial not only for private owners and farmers. Such a vehicle is often used by public utilities and large industrial enterprises where prompt transportation of equipment is required.

The ZiD Lifan cargo tricycle is equally practical in rural areas and in urban environments. Like the Soviet motor scooter Ant, a modern motorcycle with a body is convenient to use for moving on paved roads, for example, welding or any other equipment for repair, and for residents of villages and small towns it is simply an irreplaceable and faithful assistant.

The ZID LF200ZH-3 model is equipped with a Chinese Lifan 163 FML-2 engine with a maximum power of 17.5 hp. or 12.5 kW. The volume of one cylinder located vertically is 200 cm³. Fuel is supplied through a Sheng Wey carburetor. The four-stroke gasoline engine starts with an electric or kick starter, has an air cooling system and runs on AI-92 gasoline.

The five-speed manual gearbox is located in the same block with the power unit, and the multi-plate clutch is in an oil bath. The driver shifts gears with his foot, and the clutch control is located on the steering wheel. The motor transmission is gear. For efficient maneuvering in confined spaces, reverse gear is provided.

The front suspension is made in the form of a telescopic fork with two spring-hydraulic shock absorbers, the rear suspension is a spring suspension in which hydraulic shock absorbers are not used. The front and rear wheel discs use drum-type brake mechanisms with a mechanical foot drive. The emergency and parking brakes are operated by a mechanical hand drive.

A spacious metal dump truck body with three folding sides makes it convenient to load/unload. The volume of the cargo compartment has been increased due to the so-called sheathing of the front and side sides. For the comfort and safety of the driver, a soft backrest is attached to the outer side of the front side, and for an overview of what is happening behind, ZID Lifan cargo tricycles are equipped with rear-view mirrors.

If you need an economical and inexpensive, compact and “fast” transport for quick delivery of equipment and cargo over short distances, then it is best to buy a ZiD Lifan cargo tricycle or a similar trike with a body. Low price, decent technical characteristics, speed and mobility are the main advantages that cargo motorcycles and scooters have.

BrandZiD
ModelLifan LF200ZH-3
Cabinwithout cabin
Number of seats1
Load capacity275 kg
Speed80 km/h
Engine modelLifan 163 FML-2
Engine power17.5 hp (12.5 at 8000 rpm)
Engine capacity196.9 cm³
Number of cylinders1
Number of cycles4
Torque15.0 N.m at 7000 rpm
Supply systemcarburetor SHENG WEY, PD1
engine's typepetrol
Ignitionelectronic CDI, capacitor, contactless
Starting systemkick/electric starter
Coolingair
TransmissionManual transmission, 5 gears
ReverseThere is
Clutchmulti-disc, oil bath
Frametubular, welded
Bodymetal, self-tilting with three folding sides
Front suspensiontelescopic fork
Front shock absorbersspring-hydraulic, 2 pcs.
Rear suspensionspring
Rear shock absorbersNo
Base2050 mm
Track980 mm (rear wheels)
Ground clearance180 mm
Wheel size3.25×16 – front wheel 4.50×12 – rear wheels
Wheel diskscast – front wheel stamped – rear wheels
Controlmotorcycle type steering wheel
Brakesdrums
Muffler1 piece, without neutralization system
Electrical equipmentheadlight, turn lights, brake light
Battery12V/9Ah
Type of fuelgasoline AI-92
Fuel tank11 l
Fuel consumption6.5 l (100 km)
Exploitationon any type of paved roads
Available colors
Equipmentrear view mirrors, instructions
Weight305 kg
Curb weight315 kg
Full mass580 kg
Dimensions3200 × 1250 × 1440 mm
ProductionMade in Russia
Guarantee1 year

29.09.2019

Electrical equipment

Manufacturing

It is not necessary to study and draw up complex drawings; experienced DIY enthusiasts can make a device based on the general diagram. This shows the outline of the front windows, the cabin, the front end, and the general configuration.

READ How to Make a Trailer for a Motoblock

And here the main possible sizes are already shown. The distance between the wheel axles is 1.23 m. Between the extreme steering point and the center of the rear wheel, the distance is 0.98 m.

Making a homemade tricycle with your own hands is possible even practically from scrap metal. One of the possible options is characterized by simplicity of design. The main parts will be:

CVT engine from a scooter and a wheel from the same;

You can also consider making a tricycle step by step at home based on the old Zaporozhets car. They start by removing the engine and gearbox.

any components related to the operation of the clutch and brake units.

It is better to throw away all other components except those listed or use them in another way. Additionally, you will need various pipes and channels in large quantities. They begin work by preparing the transitional wheel fastening elements. The rear segment of the frame is welded from channels

The front fork parts will need to be carefully polished and coated with a layer of chrome; Maximum attention will have to be paid to the frame, because it is the work on it that is most difficult

manufacturing seat frames from bent pipes;

laying out all the necessary wiring;

The solution with a reduction gearbox and an automatic clutch system is not very complete - in the forest and over rough terrain you can accelerate to a maximum of 25 - 30 km/h. It costs Honor, which, according to many enthusiasts, has a power of 6.5 liters. With. enough even for devices weighing about 500 kg.

But sometimes they try to assemble a tricycle with a motor unit from a walk-behind tractor. The frame is welded from round pipes. To increase cross-country ability, it is worth abandoning the suspension and mounting the structure on low-pressure tires. A small shock absorber is usually located under the seat. It is preferable to use air-cooled engines with a centrifugal clutch.

The wheels are assembled by attaching ATV tires to traditional car rims. Rear chains should be taken from motorcycles. The rear wheels are usually equipped with 77-tooth sprockets. Such a device can reach speeds of up to 45 km/h. In general, this assembly is quite convenient and works stably.

The construction of an excellent all-terrain tricycle, suitable even for difficult off-road conditions, is possible on the basis of the Izh Planet motorcycle. The “flat” wheels from GAZ cars contribute to increased cross-country ability. Tires of the 66th model after stripping become significantly lighter without losing any of their capabilities.

It's also worth considering a mini-tricycle. To work you will need:

The use of kart wheels is attractive because they are immediately equipped with a mount for attaching an axle. If we talk about original designs, then it is useful to take a closer look at reverse tricycles. Instead of the usual design (one wheel in front, two in back), it uses two front and one rear wheel. The steering is quite comfortable and differs little from conventional solutions. The rider can turn either by turning the wheels, or by moving the axle and tilting the wheels relative to each other.

Electric homemade tricycles are also quite common. They usually use brushless electric motors. Each wheel will have to be equipped with its own set of disc brakes. They are activated when you press the steering brake lever. The steering wheel, which turns the front wheel, is complemented by the front part of the tricycle frame that tilts to the sides.

It is the inclined connections that guarantee the vehicle’s rapid deflection to the side. It would be impossible to achieve the same with a rigid structure. If you make a tricycle on tubes instead of simple wheels, then it also acquires the properties of a swamp vehicle. Motorcycles from the Izh Planet line and other unpretentious bikes are usually taken as a basis. No special turning work is required; Honor says that tricycles are usually equipped with a cabin for winter use.

READ How to set up a plow on a walk-behind tractor

How to disassemble and reassemble the engine of the Ant scooter?

The motor design is simple. But even this does not protect it from breakdowns, which are often associated with age. You shouldn’t just disassemble the engine, but if the following symptoms appear, you should take up the tools:

  • Startup problems.
  • Oil leak.
  • Lack of traction.
  • Increased background noise.
  • The winding lever does not return to its place.

Possible breakdowns:

  • Worn seals.
  • Poor quality assembly after previous repair.
  • CPG failure.
  • Worn bearings.
  • The return spring in the kickstarter has broken.

Note! Before overhauling the power plant, it is not necessary to wash it. Just drain the oil and remove it from the frame.

Cylinder block

After unscrewing several bolts, you need to remove the cylinder head. Pay attention to the worn cylinder head gasket. Opposite the outlet window, you should probe the so-called excavation. If a characteristic wave or step is felt, then such a cylinder needs to be changed or bored.

Burnout occurs where the piston rings contact the cylinder. Where they work, the metal wears out, so a transition is formed at the border of the two zones, which reflects the degree of wear.

The piston should be examined for wear. Some “Kulibins” manage to refine it with sandpaper.

Clutch

  1. Removing the clutch cover and kickstarter shaft. Pay attention to the return spring - it often breaks and the kickstarter does not return to its place. Also at this point you can check the timing chain tension.
  2. Clutch disassembly. To do this, you will need to unscrew the nuts and remove the pressure plate from the basket.
  3. The lock washer must be bent and a stick must be inserted under the tooth of the main gear sprocket. Please note that the threads on the crankshaft journal nut are right-handed. The nut needs to be unscrewed.
  4. There will be another lock washer that needs to be straightened. We take a puller and fix the clutch drum. The clutch nut has a left-hand thread.
  5. The disc and drum are removed, as well as the clutch basket is removed from the shaft along with the chain and drive sprocket.

Dinostarter

Remove the following elements:

  1. Cooling casing.
  2. Ignition chopper cam, but provided that the power plant was not converted to a magneto. In this case, it is necessary to fix the dyno starter rotor. This can be done using the cooling fan or by fixing the crankshaft with improvised means.
  3. The rotor is dismantled using a puller - standard or homemade.

As a result, the rotor was removed.

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Walk-behind tractor chassis

  • 1 – right wheel;
  • 2 – left wheel;
  • 3 – first gear gear;
  • 4 – drive shaft;
  • 5- gearbox;
  • 6 – drive gear;
  • 7 – bushing;
  • 8 – locking screw;
  • 9 – drive shaft housing;
  • 10 – axle box flange;
  • 11 – nut and bolt M8;
  • 12 – splined bushing;
  • 13 – shaft;
  • 14 – M14 nuts;
  • 15 – washer;
  • 16 – oil seal;
  • 17,18 – bearings;
  • 19 – engine.

The feasibility of installing a magneto

It’s none of my business, of course, but I have an extremely negative attitude towards this kind of collective farm tuning. Moreover, the magneto does not solve the problem with the reliability of the standard ignition system, but only replaces it with another problem. And this, in my opinion, is complete stupidity: convert the engine to a magneto, and then suffer even more with it...

Yes, the dyno starter is not an ideal device. Which also needs to be constantly monitored and, if necessary, serviced. So what? Well, I cleaned the collector and breaker contacts at the beginning of the season and that’s it. Are there fewer problems with the magneto? More than a hundred times!

  1. Firstly, due to the fact that the rubber coupling constantly breaks, the ignition timing is lost, and this entails detonation, loss of power, overheating and increased fuel consumption.
  2. Secondly, after installing the magneto, they usually stop monitoring the dyno starter, deprive it of its battery, and it eventually dies completely... Accordingly, the on-board network of the scooter is deprived of its power source. And this means that “there is no light - there will be no cinema”...
  3. Thirdly, due to the fact that this whole alteration is a complete collective farm - the axes in which the magneto rotor and the dynostarter rotate diverge within significant limits. And this leads to the fact that the parts of these two devices begin to work with a large axial misalignment relative to each other, which is why the magneto’s output shaft of the rotor constantly breaks off and its support bearings fall apart.
  4. Fourthly, the magneto was not initially designed for long-term operation, much less to work with such a horse-like misalignment along the axes, which leads to an increased radial load on the rotor, which is not typical for a magneto.
  5. Fourthly, a magneto is very expensive - plus you need to buy a spacer and a coupling.

Do-it-yourself walk-behind tractor trailer

When planning the purchase of a walk-behind tractor, you almost always have to think about good attachments for full-fledged work on a plot of land. Plow attachment and trailer

for
a walk-behind tractor
they are needed like air. You can’t argue with this statement, but they cost a lot, and the money to buy such a gun carriage cannot always be found from the limited budget of an ordinary person. Therefore, it is better to spend the bulk of the capital on purchasing a cool, powerful walk-behind tractor with an American or Japanese engine, and make a trailer for the walk-behind tractor with your own hands. Moreover, finding drawings for any version of a trailer for a walk-behind tractor is not a problem.

Motor "Green Ant" - a unique Russian development

Designers from Russia invented a motor, the distinctive feature of which was the absence of a crankshaft in the design.

A distinctive feature of the development is a new method for converting the translational energy of the pistons into rotational energy. Theoretically, such a motor should operate at lower speeds, developing a greater degree of torque, and being one third more economical than an internal combustion engine.

Work in theory. The design of the device, designed to take power from a power plant in the form of an internal combustion engine, does not allow violation of the existing laws of nature and the basic principles of science. During the implementation of the project, a completely new design of the internal combustion engine was implemented, which did not change the principles of its operation and did not affect the fundamentals of the theory of internal combustion engines. The difference will be in the method of transmitting force during operation, and it lies in physical laws, and not in motor theory.

Using the existing motor theory, the processes that occur in inertial machines, which are almost all existing design options, are determined. The fact is that the direction of the inertia forces in the structure in almost all places is the same as the direction in which the force is applied for work, as a result of which all actions will be converted into rotation in one direction. This makes it fair to indicate in theoretical information about the motor the fact that almost all the efficiency of the device is concentrated in the cylinder, and represents the quality of the work process, but its efficiency does not significantly depend on the design option used. But the application of such a theory is not possible for inertia-free machines.

It is no secret that the basis for the operation of any type of motor is the basic physical laws, which makes it possible to explain the difference using the law of the addition of forces. The reason that the motor can develop high torque from the very beginning of operation is the fact that the electromagnetic field seems to “pull” the rotor along with it, without the formation of inertial forces. The result is the formation of a direct transmission, like a gearbox. The question arises: why can’t a conventional internal combustion engine produce the same level of torque? The answer is that the piston has to push the crankshaft, which causes the formation of inertial forces acting in the same direction. It is precisely the presence of its own inertial forces in the mechanism for performing work that becomes the reason for the absorption of most of the available effort. In other words, the work is transferred to the execution mechanism, which then moves independently.

The process of power distribution. For a crank mechanism, two forces participate in the process of work - the work process and the inertia process. Due to the fact that the action of these forces is carried out in the same direction, then, according to the law of the addition of forces in the same direction, with different points of application, only one of them can perform useful work. The higher the engine rotation speed, the greater the inertial force of the entire structure will become, while the value of the work force remains unchanged. Despite the increase in the number of cycles, the efficiency of the motor remains at the same level. Increasing the load on the output shaft will have no effect other than increasing fuel consumption.

The second evidence can be the ignition advance used in most engines. In its absence, there is a sharp decline in all indicators. This is quite simple to explain - such a force is transferred to the piston, which escapes on its own due to the rotation of the crankshaft. An unsupported scheme is formed, whereas in order to perform useful work it is necessary to have at least one point of support. The type of power take-off from the internal combustion engine proposed by the developers makes it possible to eliminate inertial forces. To do this, it is necessary to convert the working force of the piston into rotation in two opposite directions, which will cause mutual destruction of the emerging inertial forces.

Bottom line. The method of operation of this mechanism can be compared to the use of a children's toy “spinning top”, where there is a screw rod with a wooden handle, when pressed, the mechanism unwinds. The first pressing must be performed with great force, after which it is required to a lesser extent, but with constant work performed by the “handle”, the mechanism will maintain a constant rotation speed.

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Attachment overview

Thanks to additional attachments, the functionality of the walk-behind tractor is significantly increased. Ant Redver walk-behind tractors support work with the following types of attachments:

Milling cutters

One of the basic characteristics for each walk-behind tractor and cultivator is the width and depth of cultivation.

Depending on the model of the Ant walk-behind tractor, the delivery set includes 4 or 6 knives for cutters that have a forward direction of rotation.

Crawler's feet cutter


Saber cutter

Typically, standard saber-shaped cutters are used, which do an excellent job with prepared soft soils.

However, if deeper surface treatment is necessary with the Ant Redver walk-behind tractor, crow's foot cutters are used. They are made in the form of rods with welded triangles at the ends. However, they have a significant drawback: they often break off when hitting rocks or processing hard rocks.

Plow

If you need to cultivate virgin lands, then it is better to use a plow in conjunction with Ant brand walk-behind tractors. In this case, cutters will not help, since the density of the soil is high, and they simply will not be able to sink into the ground.

When plowing, it is recommended to use a reversible plow; it not only lifts the lower layer of soil up, but also breaks up large soil rocks.


Reversible plow Standard plow PM-1

When plowing, the main thing is to make a straight track, then one wheel is placed in the trench, and work with the plow continues.

Mowers

In the summer, Ant walk-behind tractors will help you keep your home area in order using a rotary mower. It allows you to cut weeds of various heights and stem diameters.


Console mower KN 1.1


Rotary mower Zarya

Rotary mowers will also help rural residents in storing hay for the winter. Simply mow the grass and then use a rake to collect it. If you have a rake for the Ant Redver walk-behind tractor, you can use it.

Potato digger and potato planter

Potatoes can be found in almost every garden in our country. Redverg Ant walk-behind tractors, together with a potato digger and potato planter, can greatly facilitate their implementation.


Potato planter APK-CM


Potato digger Zirka-61 vibration

Hiller

There is a fairly long period of time between planting and digging potatoes, during which it is necessary to care for this crop. Motoblocks of the Ant brand together with hillers allow not only hilling of potatoes, but also weeding at the same time.

Snow blower and shovel

To clear snow cover in winter, the Redverg Ant walk-behind tractor is used together with a snow removal attachment.

A snow blower, using a bucket, picks up snow and throws it at a distance through a rotor, while the blade-shovel simply throws it to the side.

Frame

Creating a case is one of the difficult stages. Suitable materials for this are fiberglass or fiberglass. Sheet metal can also be used, but an artificial body kit will weigh less.

First, a “blank” of the body is cut out of pieces of foam plastic, for which you will need to develop a preliminary drawing. Fiberglass is applied to the prepared form. There will be several layers, so metal fasteners are installed between them for subsequent fixation of the new body kit to the frame. To ensure that each layer is properly bonded to each other, they are additionally coated with epoxy resin. The body needs to be thoroughly dried, and then primed and painted.

After installing all components and connecting the systems, you need to check the functionality and run the vehicle, gradually increasing the load.

The Ant scooter today, unfortunately, has already been discontinued from production and sales by the manufacturer. However, it is still possible to purchase a used model.

Such scooters have already won a lot of fans due to their characteristics. More carrying capacity compared to motorcycles, affordable cost, ease of use - all this makes the model a priority among other motorcycles.

Snowmobile from a walk-behind tractor

In winter, moving around the terrain becomes much more difficult, and buying even a used snowmobile involves significant financial costs. The solution to the problem is to convert the walk-behind tractor into a snowmobile. Everything you need for this can be found at the nearest landfill or scrap metal collection point. If you have enough money, modular tracks are purchased, installed instead of wheels on the axle shaft.

If we take an already manufactured tractor as a basis, then for work you will need:

  • old wide wheels from an SUV;
  • sheet steel with a width of at least 40 cm;
  • conveyor belt with a cord base.

You can make a snowmobile in different ways. The choice depends on the skill of the vehicle owners and the availability of available materials.

Rework can be carried out in the following areas:

  1. Replacing standard wheels with wider ones that exert minimal pressure on the snow. If necessary, devices are attached to the wheels to increase traction (chains, ropes).
  2. Securing the wheels in wide and light lugs. Air is first released from the chambers. The rims are put on the wheels, which are inflated to the limit.
  3. Installing the conveyor belt on the wheels. To prevent the tape from flying off, aluminum strips are secured to its edges using rivets.

Spare parts price

Despite the fact that the production of the device stopped long ago, you can still find new spare parts for it that are produced by the industry. Some parts are imported, some come assembled. Supplied in sets:

  • Clutch discs.
  • Gaskets for power plant and gearbox.
  • Nuts.
  • Pipes.
  • Levers.

The necessary parts can be found on the Internet using store catalogs. Prices for spare parts for the Ant scooter are fair. Here are some examples:

  • Clutch disc – 400 rub.
  • Kickstarter shaft – 1100 rub.
  • Front shock absorber – 1600 rub.
  • Gearbox seals – 100 RUR.
  • Piston – 2500 rub.
  • Gearbox – 14,000 rub.
  • Wheel hub – 2000 rub.

Judging by the prices, the device is more than cheap to repair. This is an important operational property for people in rural areas.

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