Do-it-yourself electric kettle repair, diagram, device

It is possible to repair an electric kettle with your own hands in case of almost any breakdown, except for damage that is critical and irreversible, for example, when the vessel itself is destroyed or cracked. Most items can be restored or replaced. You definitely shouldn’t throw away an electric kettle if it stops turning on or off or heating up - the reason is often easily eliminated. In addition, parts of broken products can be useful as spare parts. There are three groups of breakdowns: those relating to electrical parts (contact group, switches), heating element and housing, and plastic parts.

Products without cord

This device has a base-stand on which the block and power connector are connected.
Connection to the electrical network is carried out thanks to a cord that is connected to this very stand. Due to this design, it is possible to pick up the kettle without removing the plug from the socket. There are modifications that are installed in a fixed position on the base. However, modern products can be placed facing any direction. The base also has a special compartment for storing excess cord. Cordless kettles contain:

filter;
steam outlet;
indicator for determining the liquid level;
power connector;
base;
bimetallic disk.

How to fix the lid of a Philips kettle? (Option No. 2)

If you still need an original plastic insert for a kettle, then for a while you can get out of the situation as follows.

Let's disassemble the cover. Take a baking sleeve. Fortunately, it is intended for food products and high temperatures.

Place the lids between the two parts and assemble in reverse order. We make holes with self-tapping screws during assembly. We cut off the excess with scissors or a stationery knife. Be careful not to damage the rubber seal.

Electric kettle device

Electric kettle stand. The design has 3 electrical contacts, two of which are located in the grooves (they are copper plates) and serve to supply voltage to the kettle, and one is located in the center and serves as a grounding conductor.
Heating element (heating element). It can have either an open type (curved or spiral) or a closed type (like a metal disk). At the ends of the heating element there are leads for supplying voltage to them; small contacts are welded to them, onto which terminals are placed.
Electric switch. Serves to protect and turn on an electrical appliance. There is a thermal relay installed inside that can protect the device during network overloads and overheating of electrical wires. There is a thermostat that turns off the device if the heating element overheats.
Indicator. LED light located on the base of the kettle or on the power button. Indicates whether the electrical appliance is currently working or not.
Frame. Mainly made of plastic, this option is available to everyone, as it is inexpensive compared to others; metal and glass (more expensive models). The stand consists of the same material as the electric kettle itself.
Kettle flask. The cheapest and simplest models do not have it. In more expensive versions, the flask is located inside the kettle so that it does not touch its walls, which ensures that high temperatures are maintained for a long time. Consists mainly of metal or glass.

How to clean an electric kettle from rust

Often, tap water, although outwardly transparent, is saturated with particles of iron oxides, simply put, rust. Over time, rust in the form of sediment begins to accumulate inside the kettle. Outwardly, it looks like the appearance of a reddish coating. Removing plaque is quite simple. To do this, just pour the maximum allowable amount of water into the kettle and add a standard sachet of citric acid. Then you need to boil this water, drain it and rinse the kettle with clean water.

The body of the electric kettle can be made of metal, glass, porcelain or earthenware, as well as heat-resistant plastic. The most common are plastic models.

Operating principle of an electric kettle

First, let's look at how a kettle works in general and what goes where. And it works like this:

First, the electrical plug is plugged into a 220V AC outlet.
The mains voltage is supplied via a cable to the stand and XP 1 contacts; they are located quite deep so that a person cannot touch them.
The electric kettle has a recess in its base; it contains contacts that close after the device is installed on the stand.
After turning on the button on the kettle, the current will pass through the thermal switch St 1 and after the water boils it will automatically turn off.
St 2 is a thermal protection switch, it is always in operation, but is only activated when the empty kettle is switched on by mistake.
Well, the last stage is the supply of voltage to the heating element, abbreviated as heating element.
HL is a light bulb that signals a person whether the electric kettle is on or not.

Why does the kettle heat up water slowly?

The reason why an electric kettle may be slow to warm up water is because there are thick layers of scale on its heating element.
To remove thick layers of scale, we have to buy a cleaning product, the main purpose of using which is its basic properties, which allow us to fight the layers of scale accumulated in it. After purchasing a cleaning product, we need to read the instructions on its packaging. It must be remembered that the principle of using one or another type of cleaning products may differ greatly due to the fact that manufacturers of such products use components and additives that are different in their composition.
See also -
How to choose an electric kettle?

What kind of damage can the kettle be returned to the seller?

If the purchased product does not meet the declared quality or malfunctions in its mechanisms are identified during operation, according to the Law on the Protection of Consumer Rights, the product can be returned to the seller and get a refund. To do this, certain conditions must be met.

— the kettle has not been used, its appearance, factory seals and labels, as well as its presentation remained completely intact
- availability of a sales receipt or other document evidencing the purchase (in the absence of such documents, it is possible to refer to the testimony of witnesses)
— on the day of contact there is no similar replacement product available for sale
— satisfaction of the request for the return of money must occur no later than 10 days from the date of presentation
— you must have a civil passport with you to draw up a certificate of return of the kettle.

If the purchased kettle is under warranty, its repair can only be carried out in warranty workshops, the list of which is given in the warranty card. Independent disassembly of the device and an attempt to eliminate the malfunction entails termination of the manufacturer’s warranty obligations.

A simple conclusion follows from this. It makes more sense to use the warranty than to try to fix the kettle yourself. There is no point in hoping that the workshop will “not notice” any traces of an autopsy. For a professional who repairs household appliances every day and for many years, one glance is enough to determine whether the kettle has been disassembled or not. In addition, there are various tricks on the part of the manufacturer that are aimed at avoiding such situations. They are not visible to the eye, but are clear enough to be used to determine (and prove) the fact of unauthorized disassembly.

All defective goods are subject to return or exchange, at the request of the buyer. The only exceptions may be complex technical goods that are subject to examination for manufacturing or warehouse defects. The teapot, of course, does not fall into this category.

If controversial issues arise, the seller is obliged to conduct an expert examination of the goods at his own expense. The buyer has the right to be present during the examination. If, as a result of the examination, it is proven that the teapot (or other product) is defective due to the fault of the buyer, then he will be obliged to reimburse all expenses for the examination.

Main surprise

Boiled water causes allergic reactions. It is difficult to name the percentage of people susceptible to the disease. Kashpirovsky considers half of the planet to have an aggravated reaction. Treats almost 100% of those who apply. Some (the impudent ones) are sent back. Let local hospitals try it out.

The regulation of the immune system is poorly understood by science. A sane person who has experienced angioedema will be careful not to reject the slightest possibility of cure.

Most people's mornings begin with a cup of invigorating drink - coffee or tea.

To prepare it, as a rule, an electric kettle is used, since it heats the water to the desired temperature in just a couple of minutes.

However, what if one fine morning everything went wrong?

You habitually press the kettle button, but it does not lock, or it seems to turn on, but there is no contact, and the kettle does not work. Problem? Even some! Someone will say: buy a new kettle, and that’s the end of it. How much does it cost there - mere pennies...

In fact, if the power button for an electric kettle is broken , then this is not a death sentence for the entire device. Practice shows that even a person very distant from the world of electronic boards and various chips can repair this unit.

You just need to follow simple rules and have a general understanding of the subject of repair.

The principle of operation of electric kettles, device and electrical circuit

An electric kettle is a household appliance with a fairly simple design in terms of its type of device and operation. Today on the market you can find many different models of electric kettles, but it should be noted that they all function and do their job according to the same principle. As a rule, for different models of electric kettles, depending on the presence of various additional functions, the circuits may differ slightly from each other.

An electric kettle consists of several different parts. The structure of such devices, as a rule, consists of:

A special housing that acts as a reservoir for heated water. It is worth noting that in some models the liquid reservoir is not the body, but a special removable flask.
Heating element. In electric kettles, such elements can be open or, on the contrary, closed. In addition, the heating elements used in teapots can be disk or spiral.
A special stand, which is equipped with a connector that allows you to connect the kettle to the mains power supply.
A thermostat that turns off the power to the device when the water boils (located directly under the device’s power button).
A special block, which is a connector for powering the device (located on the bottom of the device in the side or central part).

Models of electric kettles that are equipped with a special thermostat have more contact groups. This feature must be taken into account when carrying out their own repairs. Thermostats allow you to heat water in different modes while using the electric kettle, as well as keep it hot for a long time.

The operating principle of electric kettles that operate from the electrical network is quite simple. When such a device is connected to the electrical network and the power button is pressed, the heating element begins to heat up. Thanks to this, the water in the kettle’s reservoir boils or is heated to the temperature set by the user (in models with an installed thermostat).

When water is heated, when it boils, a large amount of steam begins to form in the body of the kettle, which, through a special channel equipped with a steam-permeable hole, begins to be supplied to a special bimetallic thermostat plate. Thanks to the action of steam, the metal begins to gradually expand and act on the lever, thereby opening the contact groups and turning off the equipment.

Switch, temperature sensor: the point of view of an electric kettle repairman

The photo shows from the bottom position. A shiny circle with a cut is a mechanical sensor. Thanks to the bimetallic plate, seizing the moment, the electric kettle turns off. The water boils and an increased amount of steam begins to be released. There is a small hole in the housing located under the switch, covered with a circular loose plastic plug (see photo). The plate is installed, located above the gate pair. Boiling begins and the temperature rises sharply. After a moment, you can hear a click. The tongue of the plate, made up of a pair of metals, bends sharply upward. Looks like a bimetallic relay.

Now the switch. Not so simple. The part has no visible connections, except for the metal bracket shown in the photo on the side. The upper movable part is attached to it. When we turn on the kettle, the tip of the switch rests on the tongue of the round plate with a cutout, and the bracket is compressed. Thanks to the design, the parts retain their initial position indefinitely. Click! The slightest tug releases the bracket, returning the switch to its original position.

Let's examine the bottom of the body. Here are:

circular connector;
rolled spiral;
LED divider resistor rated 14 kOhm.

While the switch is dormant, the LED glows blue. Full voltage of 230 volts is applied. The photo clearly shows: the resistor was burnt, the contacts were inserted into the clamp terminals, one did not withstand inspection. I had to solder it. The divider resistor is connected in parallel with the rolled heater. The electric kettle turns on - the glow changes to orange. Dual LED (school teachers left out?), unlike typical use, both shades work simultaneously while the water is boiling. The addition of electromagnetic waves of different shades produces orange. It is difficult to list the shades that form the superposition (the repairman is deeply indifferent).

Remove the resistor, or it will burn out - nothing bad will happen. The LED will simply stop changing hue, tracking changes in the position of the switch. Color is not related to water temperature. It is easy to notice that there is no thermal fuse. We believe there is simply no protection. Those who wish can equip the part with a metal case, next to the ring connector. Provide protection against empty switching. This kettle may cause a fire if not protected. We recommend adding a thermal fuse to the device. Place it not somewhere in the center, but around the perimeter of the heating element, increasing reliability.

The resistance of the heating element is 30 Ohms. The photo shows through fractions the power values on a metal surface of 220 and 240 V. Enough to understand what can break. The design of the electric kettle is simple, even a kettle can be repaired, but... It was easy to remove the lid and put it back! We hope that readers will solve the question on their own; we find it difficult to answer. But we will show you how to disassemble the switch for those who want to clean the contacts. The gap distance is tiny, steam is in the air. Just look at the two screws from the photo: they are covered with rust, although the electric kettle has not been properly used.

Disassembly nuances taking into account the model

Before starting repair work, it is necessary to conduct a preliminary inspection of the kettle for operability and eliminate all sorts of trivial issues that could cause a malfunction (connection to the power supply, activation of the power button, correct position, installation of the device directly on the stand itself). If, after a preliminary check, the device still remains faulty, then it is necessary to dismantle all components and find the cause of the breakdown. How to disassemble an electric kettle? It is recommended to disassemble models of electric kettles that are equipped with a closed heating element as follows:

Remove the cover located on the bottom of the device. In this case, you need to take into account the fact that on older models, the fastening elements are located in the upper part.
In more modern models, during disassembly, it is necessary to remove the top cover, which is secured in two grooves located at the base of the handle.
The grooves should be carefully released, and then the bolts located under them should be unscrewed. In some models, the top handle is removed directly along with the lid.
Then you need to turn the kettle over and remove the fastening elements at its bottom.
Using a screwdriver, unclip the special fixing elements that are located around the perimeter of the bottom of the kettle.

After dismantling the bottom for damage, using a tester, you should inspect the heating element of the kettle. In models equipped with a disk heating element, the heating element does not come into contact with water. Therefore, at this stage, if the heating element is in a faulty state, you can determine the breakdown by ringing it with a tester. As a rule, the heating element in a kettle fails due to the appearance of broken spirals in the tube.

To check the thermostat for any malfunctions, you need to remove the screw located at the bottom of the kettle handle. Then the handle must be carefully removed and the screw removed under the power button. The connection points to which the thermostat is connected must be checked with a multimeter. After ringing, if the malfunction was not detected, you need to remove the assembly itself. To do this, first dismantle the cover itself, and then remove the part. To remove the cover, you need to lightly press it with your fingers and push it forward.

To properly disassemble the old model of electric kettle, you need to unscrew the screws located on the bottom of the device and dismantle its side part to gain access to the heating element, as well as the thermostat. In the case where the power button is located at the top of the kettle, the device must be completely disassembled. To check the open heating element, you must first dismantle the cover.

If the heating element is in working condition, and it was not possible to identify its malfunction, then the stand should be inspected. To do this, you need to disconnect it from the power supply, turn it over and remove all the bolts. Then you need to dismantle the lower part of the stand and inspect its elements.

How to repair an electric kettle yourself

After determining the cause of the breakdown, you can begin to solve the problem of how to repair the kettle. It was stated above that not all faults can be repaired. However, most problems can be fixed at home, although most likely you will need to disassemble the equipment. Let's consider typical repair operations that are most often required to restore the functionality of household appliances of this type.

The electric kettle does not heat water, the indicator is on

Such a malfunction may occur due to a lack of contact between the heating element’s terminals and the terminals or due to a malfunction of the heating element itself. In the second case, the malfunction is usually irreparable, so you will have to purchase a new kettle. If the device does not work due to lack of contact, then it can be repaired. After disassembling the electric kettle, it becomes clear whether the burnt-out terminal needs to be replaced or whether you can limit yourself to cleaning it from carbon deposits and oxide. As for the output of the heating element, as a rule, after removing the burnt-out section, the remaining part is quite enough to connect to the terminal.

Restoring contact in terminals

If the terminal is burnt out, it cannot be restored; it must be replaced. For replacement, you can use either a new terminal or a used element that has not lost its functionality. If a used terminal is used, it must first be freed from old wiring. Next you will need to press the wire into the terminal. To do this, the wire, stripped of insulation, is inserted into the tail part of the terminal and crimped with pliers, after which the restored contact can be used for its intended purpose.

Restoration of welded contacts

Some manufacturers connect the leads of the heating element to the wire using spot welding to ensure contact. In this case, a special ribbon wire is used. If the welding is not of sufficient quality, over time the wires simply fall away from the terminals and the contact is broken. To eliminate this problem, it is recommended to wrap a ribbon wire around the terminal (one turn is enough) and, for reliability, secure the connection with strips and screws.

When repairing an electric kettle, you must adhere to safety regulations, in particular, do not forget to unplug the power cord from the outlet. If any actions are performed while the power is connected, you need to act carefully and do not touch the bare contacts with your skin.

The electric kettle does not heat water, the indicator does not light up

In this case, first of all, it is necessary to check the serviceability of the power cord - this is a common cause of such a malfunction. The problem may be a broken cord or a loose connection in the cord plug. It is not always advisable to eliminate such a malfunction. In extreme cases, you can completely change the cord. However, not only the power cord can be problematic, but also the contacts at the base of the parting or the power button. Ways to resolve such problems are discussed below.

Repair of the contact group of the stand

Electrical contact between the removable part of the electric kettle and its base is made through contact groups located in the center of the base and, accordingly, in the center of the bottom of the detachable container. A characteristic sign that not everything is in order with the contact is the situation when, in order to turn on the kettle, you have to turn it on the base until contact appears. To repair the device, you first need to inspect the contact groups. It often happens that they are simply oxidized, and repair in this case will consist of cleaning the contacts from oxides. To access the contact groups, you will have to disassemble the kettle.

It happens that contacts burn out and need to be replaced. This can be a problem because... It is difficult to buy such parts separately. In this case, you can use any suitable contact plate, for example, taken from a relay or old household appliances. In this case, you will probably need to give it the shape and size of the burnt plate.

Repairing the electric kettle switch button

The electric kettle button is a mechanical part of the switch. Breakage of the button can be expressed in its failure into the handle or body (depending on placement), which is usually caused by the breaking off of the axis of this element. The cause is reliably established after disassembling the equipment. It is often possible to repair a button using available tools. For example, replace a broken plastic element with a piece made of metal wire. To securely fix the new part, it is recommended to fuse it into the button using a soldering iron.

Electric kettle switch repair

The electromechanical part of the electric kettle switch may fail due to oxidation or burnout of the contacts, as well as wear of some parts. Again, to establish the exact cause of the breakdown, you will need to disassemble the equipment and remove the switch. Oxidized switch contacts are cleaned, burnt contacts are replaced with new ones. Weakened springs that fix the position of the switch can be replaced with new parts or straightened a little - this will return them to the required elasticity.

How to fix a water leak from an electric kettle

As mentioned above, leaks can occur at the junction of the bottom of the container, as well as due to cracks in the body. If a leak occurs at the joints, you will need to disassemble the kettle to determine the location of the leak and eliminate it. The bottom of the removable container is disconnected. Then you will have to replace the worn out seal or use silicone sealant to seal the joint. For such an operation, you can use a special sealant that is harmless to food, but in principle, a regular sealant will do. After sealing the joint, it is recommended to boil water in a kettle at least once and drain it completely.

As for cracks in the body, it is often impractical to seal them, because sealed large cracks soon begin to leak again. The same silicone sealant is used for sealing. After this procedure, you also need to boil water in a kettle and drain it.

Electric kettle stand repair

The reason for a non-working electric kettle may also be hidden in the stand. There's nothing special to break there. There is only a contact group and leads from it, to which the electrical cord is connected. All this can break here - the wire falls off or the contact point oxidizes.

There is nothing particularly broken in the stand of an electric kettle

In most kettles, the wires from the cord are not soldered. Contact is achieved using copper contact connectors, which are placed on the terminals of the contact group. We carefully examine it and give it a good tug. If there is an oxide film (it is dark) or burnt areas, remove everything and clean it to clean and smooth metal.

If the contacts are clean but “moving”, remove it, press it with pliers and insert it into place. If the kettle is no longer under warranty, you can solder the contacts for reliability.

Although outwardly similar, cylindrical contacts may be different. Available with movable contacts between plastic protrusions

And also, it is worth taking a close look at the contact group. Despite the fact that they are similar, their structure may be different. There are those like in the right photo - with movable contacts that are located between cylindrical plastic protrusions. When pressed (with a toothpick, the end of a screwdriver, etc.), the contacts should move smoothly down. After the force is removed, they should return to their original position. Perhaps an oxide film or other contaminants are preventing the contact from moving, which is why the kettle does not work.

The second type of contact is with a pin in the center. There are usually fewer problems with it, but we look here too. You never know what could happen.

We remove even minor traces of dirt

In any case, we check for the presence of a dark film. This is an oxide deposit that acts as a dielectric, worsening contact. We remove dirt and plaque during repairs.

What to do if the kettle does not turn off

The most obvious reason why the device may not turn off is that the lid is not properly closed. If your lid is properly closed, then the reason your kettle won't turn off is because the steam vent is blocked.

Yes, blocking the passage hole is not a common problem, but it does occur. The fact is that the hole can be clogged with lime deposits, which prevent steam from being redirected to the bimetallic plates.

Operating principle and electrical diagram

Before you begin diagnosing or repairing a household kettle, you will need to find out what components it consists of and how it works. Despite the abundance of offers under different brands, all electrical devices in this category have a similar design. They include the following parts:

frame;
power indicator;
a heating element;
control system (power button, thermostat);
stand with power cord and contact group.

Connections in the internal communication circuit are made using plug-in terminals, or, less commonly, soldering. After placing the kettle filled with water on the stand and pressing the key, the supply circuits of the device are closed. This is accompanied by a light indication indicating that everything is working. If at this stage there is no contact between the stand and the bottom of the device, the switch is faulty, nothing will work.

Next, a heating element (spiral or disk) installed at the bottom gradually brings the water in the tank to a boil. After boiling, the automatic switches off the power to the heater (the light goes out with a characteristic click). If there is not enough water in the kettle or it is accidentally turned on empty, the protection system should also work, de-energizing the power circuits.

Arrangement of electric kettle components

Both the old models with spiral heating elements and the new ones with disk-shaped heating elements remain similar in principle of operation and the presence of main components. They will definitely contain a heating element, a power button and a protection unit. Without them, the kettle will not work.

Overheat protection system

This unit is necessary to meet fire safety requirements. If it were not there, then if the water level was insufficient and an empty kettle was turned on, a fire would certainly have occurred. And so a special contact group will de-energize the heating element.

As a working tool, it uses a special plate made of 2 metals that reacts to heat. The normal position is closed; when overheated, the bimetal is deformed, breaking the power circuit, turning off the heating element. Manufacturers of household appliances use a number of standard solutions for this unit. And all use bimetallic sensors, which are reliable and efficient.

The only drawback of thermal protection is the need to wait until the working part cools down and returns to its original position. After this, the kettle is ready for use again.

Automatic shutdown system when water boils

Another critical unit, without which normal operation of the kettle is impossible. A procedure that we are so accustomed to that we don’t pay attention is the automatic switching off of the device after heating the water. It is no coincidence that manufacturers in their operating instructions focus on pouring liquid into the flask to a clearly marked level (corresponding to the nominal capacity). The operation of the circuit breaker under the influence of a jet of steam depends on this.

Power indicator and backlight

Each model has a power indicator light: without it it is difficult to determine the status of the device. This is a light bulb interlocked with the contacts of the “main” button. Backlighting is an optional feature. Some manufacturers include it as an additional option. It works synchronously with turning on (off) the kettle.

Faulty switch on an electric kettle

It happens that the switch of an electric kettle becomes inoperative. This problem may be due to the fact that the switch is blocked on the side of the bimetallic plate. The plate may simply be damaged, or the pusher responsible for the switch may be stuck.

The switch cannot be replaced by yourself. If the problem with the electric kettle not working lies in the breakdown of its switch, you will have to contact a specialized company.

In some cases, when a switch gets stuck, it must be removed and checked for integrity. This is easy to do, but there is only one problem in performing this task, which lies in finding the switch. If it is located on the handle of the electric kettle, then it will not be a problem to detect and remove it, but if it is in some other place, then difficulties may arise.

The main thing is to correctly unscrew all the bolts and remove the parts that are located at the location of the switch. In general, in most cases, first you will have to remove the handle and lid of the electric kettle - this will make it easier to study the problem that is associated with its inoperability.

Advice:

Troubleshooting

The need for ringing arises when any component of the electrical circuit breaks down (the device does not turn on, the reasons are unknown, and trivial errors such as a non-working socket or loose installation have been eliminated). The work is carried out using a special device - a multimeter, as well as screwdrivers selected according to the type of screws, and a sharp knife with pliers or pliers. In this case, the following points are sequentially checked:

The performance of the flexible cord and stand contacts. It is difficult to repair a burnt stand without the appropriate experience, and its breakdowns are visible to the naked eye, but to save time, the contact group is always checked. At this stage, one end of the tester is applied to the plug, the other to the springy contacts (most often they are located in the center). Detected faults, such as a burnt or insufficiently thick cord, carbon deposits on the surface of the brass contact, are eliminated if possible, after which the group is called again. If there are no problems on all three lines (2 current-carrying lines and ground), repairing electric kettles becomes more complicated; the body has to be disassembled.
The performance of the heating element power supply terminals at the base of the housing. At this stage, you need to disassemble the kettle, as indicated in the instructions, and check the contacts of the outer and inner copper rings in turn. If there is no ringing, the power supply block is completely disassembled to remove carbon deposits, reassembled and checked again.
Power button functionality. One probe of the tester touches the contact of the wire that supplies current to the button, the second touches the power wire of the heating element. The button is checked in the off and working state; if there is no sound signal about serviceability, in the second case it needs to be repaired or replaced (if necessary, power the kettle directly).
The performance of the heating element. One probe is directed to the power contact, the second to the connection point with the wire from the power button. If the circuit breaks, you need to replace the heating element with a new one, which is not always possible.

In addition to checking the circuit with a multimeter, the actual resistance of the heating element is assessed. To perform this operation, it is enough to remove the bottom of the kettle, turn on the tester in measurement mode and point its probes at the output terminals. If there is a significant deviation from the value calculated or declared by the manufacturer, the heating element needs to be cleaned or replaced.

Check the functionality of the flexible cord and stand contacts Check the contacts of the external and internal copper ring See if the power button works Diagnose the operation of the heating element

How to fix the problem?

There are statistics by which experts can tell what problems arise most often. If the electric kettle does not turn on, how to fix it? Since it is the switch that is constantly in operation, it fails for many people. Do you really have to go to the master? Not at all. The recovery procedure itself has several stages.

It is important to inspect the part. If it is cracked, then without replacing it it will not be possible to return the unit to operation. Finding such parts is not always easy, because many people simply get rid of such a kettle and do not repair it. This means there is not much demand for parts.

Sometimes the button just gets stuck. There is a special spring here. It stretches, and after that it will be difficult to work with starting the unit. When analyzed, it will become clear what the main reason is. Replacing it is not that difficult. But when something is done incorrectly, even after assembly the situation does not return to normal.

Repair of power indicator and backlight

For ease of use, the kettles are equipped with a power indicator. It can be made on the basis of a neon light bulb or LED. It can also be equipped with backlighting. In this case, the indicator can be combined with the backlight.

Electric kettle with light Polaris PWK 1767CGL

The indicator allows you to determine whether the kettle is properly installed on the stand or whether it is plugged into the outlet. It also performs some diagnostics. After all, if the light is on, but the water is not heated, this indicates a poor contact or a malfunction of the heater.

Electric kettle power indicator

The power indicator may be a neon light bulb or an LED connected to the terminals of the heating element. The light bulb is usually connected through a current-limiting resistor of about 200 kOhm. Malfunctions are extremely rare and usually breakage of conductors. The light bulb is checked by replacement, and the resistor is checked by a tester.

When using an LED, a rectifier (diode) and a current-limiting resistor are used. All together they form the so-called driver. The parts are checked by a tester.

LED lights

LEDs are chosen for illumination, as they have a high brightness. Neon is not suitable in this case. As in the case of indication, power is provided by the driver. The diagram is simple and is given below:

Simple LED Driver

Failures are rare and the weak link here is the LED.

What needs to be checked before repair?

Before repairing an electric kettle, it is worth checking the obvious things:

The plug must be inserted into the socket and the corresponding start button must be pressed. Often the problem concerns the plug and socket. Sometimes the connector moves from side to side. It turns out that there is no power supply from electricity.
Incorrect fixation. This happens sometimes, but rarely. It is better to exclude this from the rules.

When these reasons have been verified, but the unit has not started working, it is worth continuing work. If an electric kettle breaks, how to fix it? To avoid creating a more complex breakdown, you need to follow simple steps.

Features of work

Most models of electric kettles today turn off on their own after the water boils. There are modifications with manual shutdown. Before first use, it is recommended to fill the product with water and bring it to a boil. It is also necessary to wash the kettle at least 2 times before use. If the products have not been used for a long time, you should do the same steps. Modern devices are made of heat-resistant plastic or stainless steel.

Before cleaning electrically powered devices, you must unplug them. If they are cold, wash the outer surface with a damp cloth. The use of abrasive substances is prohibited. Water is heated thanks to the presence of a special element inside the kettle. It is attached to the body. Fixation is achieved using:

threaded bushing;
metal nuts;
screws holding the housing to a watertight seal.

Often such seals cause leaks. In the latest models on the market, the disc element is closed and located at the bottom of the water compartment. This is done to make cleaning surfaces simpler and easier. This measure also ensures better descaling. In various models, seals are made in the form of:

gaskets;
washers;
bushings

A safety device is provided in almost all models. It is responsible for turning off the device after the water boils. This element is triggered if someone turns it on without first pouring water. In addition, modern products are designed in such a way that the user can visually control the amount of liquid poured.

To connect to the power supply network, there is a cord or wire, the feature of which is flexibility. At one end there is a plug, and at the other there is a power connector block. It has sockets that provide contact. A coiled power cord is provided to save desk space. It is also good for families with small children, as it is less accessible to them.

How to cut polycarbonate

You can cut monolithic polycarbonate with either an electric jigsaw or metal scissors. Moreover, the latter option is less noisy and dusty.

The recesses are made with a regular round needle file.

After that, the edges are trimmed with sandpaper.

We try on the future glass in place. It should fit tightly enough.

After this, carefully heat the insert on gas.

Here I was in a hurry, and, as a result, made a mistake (I slightly overheated the edges where the bubbles appeared). To avoid repeating a similar mistake, it is better to hold the part higher. It will take a little more time, but “boiling” will not occur.

After warming up, quickly put the insert in place and, pressing it along the contour with a glove, make a bulge.

All that remains is to assemble the “sandwich” in reverse order and the lid for the kettle is ready.

How can you seal a glass electric kettle?

Sometimes there is no money to buy a new kettle. Sometimes there is no time or desire to go to the store. In such cases, you can revive an old but favorite kitchen gadget. You can seal a leaky flask with a substance that satisfies a number of requirements:

non-toxic;
there are no restrictions for use in the food industry;
withstands high temperatures;
elastic;
dries quickly at room temperature;
has adhesive properties.

On forums, craftsmen give advice on what and how to glue a leaking teapot. You cannot use recipes that include:

epoxy resin;
dichloroethane;
BF-2 glue;
cosmofen.

During operation, they release substances into boiling water that are harmful to health. In addition, they are not plastic and become brittle when exposed to high temperatures.

Food grade silicone sealant RTV 118Q

The lower limit of the operating temperature range is -60 °C, the upper limit is +260 °C. RTV 118Q sealant is used to glue glass, ceramics, metal, rubber, and plastic. It is approved for use in the food industry. It takes 72 hours to dry completely. It is convenient to use the product. The paste-like mass is easy to apply to the surfaces to be bonded.

OTTOSEAL S27

The lower limit of the operating temperature range is -40 °C, the upper limit is +180 °C. OTTOSEAL S27 is approved for use in the food industry. This silicone sealant glues glass together without applying a primer. It takes 24 hours to dry completely.

Dow Corning 732 clear

The lower limit of the operating temperature range is -60 °C, the upper limit is +180 °C. It takes 24 hours for the sealant to dry completely. Times are based on certain conditions:

indoor air humidity 50%;
air temperature 22-25 °C.

Dow Corning 732 clear is approved for use in the food industry by NSF International.

Silicone food-safe sealant "Titan"

Bonds perfectly smooth surfaces well, including colorless glass. The lower limit of the operating temperature range is -40 °C, the upper limit is +200 °C. It takes 24-120 hours to dry completely. The time depends on the thickness of the applied layer.

CHEMLUX 9014 food grade

The sealant glues glass, ceramics, stainless steel, plastic, aluminum. The lower limit of the operating temperature range is -40 °C, the upper limit is +180 °C. There are no restrictions on the duration of contact with food. The adhesive layer dries quickly.

The most common faults

The following malfunctions are typical for electric kettles:

Failure of the heating element. The cause of the defect is scale formed on the heating element, which makes it difficult to transfer heat to water, and the coil itself heats up. Heating elements of the spiral type are more susceptible to such damage than disk heating elements, which require more time to form a critical layer of scale. The reason for the burnout of the heating element can also be a violation of the operating rules, for example, if the kettle was plugged in, forgetting to pour water into it.
The electric kettle power button is broken. There are two possible reasons for this: the formation of carbon deposits and oxidation on the contacts of the button, or a break in the rod connecting it to the power supply terminals.
Leakage in the housing of an electrical appliance. This malfunction is more typical for kettles with a plastic body, as well as those equipped with a disk heating element. In the first case, the breakdown may be a consequence of deformation of the kettle due to overheating at the place where the heating element is attached, and with disk heaters, the cause is corrosion along the seam connecting the disk to the body of the electric kettle. Often the cause of such a breakdown is a deteriorated seal or cracked glass of the water level indicator.
Premature shutdown of an electrical appliance. This malfunction is a consequence of scale. The water does not have time to boil, but the heating element has already overheated and the thermostat disconnects the device from the network.
Failure of the thermostat. The design of electric kettles with a thermostat contains additional components and parts - a thermometer, temperature sensors, a memory unit, an electronic board and a control panel. The more parts a device has, the lower its reliability and the higher the likelihood of any of them breaking. In kettles with thermostats, the regulator itself most often fails, in which the contacts oxidize or burn.

Breakdowns that allow you to return the electric kettle to the store

You can return a faulty electric kettle to the store during the warranty period if during this period its significant shortcomings have appeared, namely the following faults:

irreparable damage;
periodically repeated breakdown of the same unit;
a breakdown that cannot be repaired without disproportionate costs close to the cost of the kettle itself;
a malfunction that requires a long time to eliminate, as a result of which the device cannot be used for more than 30 days throughout the year.

There can be a variety of malfunctions here, but the most serious of them are leaks not associated with mechanical damage and leaky gaskets, but arising due to deformation of the housing or damage as a result of corrosion processes.

Significant breakdowns include the failure of the heating element, provided that the kettle was used correctly and there is no scale on the heating element.

Electric kettles are household appliances that are included in the list of technically complex goods. Therefore, you can return them back to the store with a refund of the money paid only if they are of inadequate quality. When contacting the store with a written complaint, you need to indicate a breakdown that is often repeated or requires costs. comparable to the cost of an electric kettle.

The seller has the right to offer the buyer to contact the service center, but if the breakdown has not been fixed within 20 days, the store is obliged to return the money or exchange the device for a new one. The seller also has the right to appoint, at his own expense, an examination of the product, which will determine whether the breakdown was caused by the user or whether it is caused by a manufacturing defect. In the first case, the buyer must reimburse all costs for the examination. In the event of a defect due to the fault of the manufacturer, you can demand not only a refund, but also compensation for moral damages. Moral damage can only be claimed by a court decision.

Disassembling the kettle

Regardless of what brand of kettle you repair with your own hands, Tefal, Beco or another, they are understood very similarly.

The cover fastening bolts are unscrewed and the cover is removed;
The bolts in the bottom of the tank are unscrewed;
The bolts on the handle and near the button are tightened;
The housing is removed and the heating element is exposed;
Unscrew the bolts and latches of the kettle stand.

Required Tools

Before repairing an electric kettle, it is necessary to correctly determine the possible cause of breakdowns and malfunctions, as well as prepare all the tools necessary to carry out the work. To carry out troubleshooting repairs you will need:

multimeter (used for testing and troubleshooting directly in the electrical circuit);
knife, electrical tape;
pliers;
set of triangular screwdrivers.

It is worth considering the fact that models from different manufacturers may use different screws. Therefore, depending on the type of screws, before you repair the kettle, you will need to purchase and then use a flat or Phillips screwdriver.

Reference! On some models of electric kettles, usually made in China, there are screws made for a special screwdriver with a blade. In order not to purchase such a tool specifically for working with screws of this type, you can make it yourself. To do this, you need to take a flat-head screwdriver and make a cut in the middle of its working flat part.

Design and principle of operation

Modern electric kettles are assembled on the basis of one electrical circuit and differ from each other in original design, power or volume. Moreover, all of them structurally consist of two parts - the teapot itself and the stand.

Design

The body parts of the electric kettle are made of various materials:

stainless steel (Saturn, etc.);
heat-resistant plastic (Maxwell mw -1028 b, etc.);
heat-resistant glass (Vitek VT-7008 TR).

The electric kettle is connected to the mains when installed on a plastic stand, to which a power cord with a plug is connected. The connection is made through a 3-pin group located inside the stand in such a way as to prevent electric shock to the user. In this case, the device removed from the stand is completely de-energized.

In the body of the kettle, which is closed on top with a lid, the following are installed:

contact group for connection with the mating part of the stand;
disc heater or open coil (S or U-shaped);
switch (thermostat);
LED indicator (can be built into the switch);
automatic shutdown device with bimetallic contacts.

In addition, a number of models are equipped with:

additional filters that clean water from scale - made of stainless steel (Siemens TW60101) or nylon (Tefal BF2632 Vitesse);
an internal flask that does not come into contact with the body of the kettle, which is made of heat-resistant glass or stainless steel and plays the role of a thermos;
a thermal relay capable of maintaining a given water temperature in the range from 60 to 98°C for at least 4 hours (thermopot mode).

Important! Structurally, all parts that are energized during operation of the kettle are reliably protected from contact with water and exclude the possibility of accidental contact with them by the user

Operating principle

Power supply from the AC mains is supplied to the kettle when it is placed on the stand through spring-loaded contacts, which are located in the center of its bottom. In the lower part of the body there is a heating element that heats the water when you press the switch, which can be located either in the upper or lower part of the kettle.

The connection diagram provides for the presence of a blocking device that protects the device from overheating. It consists of two contact pairs that are connected to the heating element. Each such pair consists of a contact and a bimetallic plate (glued together from two thin plates with different linear expansion coefficients), capable of bending in different directions when the temperature changes.

The bimetallic plate of one pair contacts directly with the housing and ensures that the connection opens when it overheats. In the normal position, this pair is constantly closed. It only works when a kettle without water is connected to the network.

The second pair of contacts ensures that the device is disconnected from the power supply when the water boils. This happens under the influence of hot steam acting on the bimetallic plate. In this case, hot air is supplied through a special channel, which is most often used as the cavity of the handle. However, in some models, a separate round or square tube is installed to supply steam.

Slow heating and shutdown until boiling point

Both of these malfunctions can be caused by excessive scale formation on the heating element. In the first case, slow heating is due to a large layer of deposits, which prevents the liquid from heating up quickly. To fix this problem, you just need to descale the kettle. There are many ways to do this using special means and folk methods. This procedure is mandatory, otherwise the heating element may burn out.

As for the second type of malfunction - turning off the device before boiling - and in this case, the cause is also the heating element, on which there is a large amount of scale. Each heating element, regardless of the model, has a special fuse that trips immediately after the heating element begins to overheat. In the event of a breakdown of this type, it is also enough to descale the electric kettle.

Scale on the heating element: replacement