Burner for testing: varieties, device, how to make it yourself

Combustion conditions

In order for a homemade burner to work during mining, several requirements must be met.
In particular, oil will burn best when heated and atomized. It is not difficult to fulfill these conditions; the article provides several options for burners that have a powerful flame of fire, and most importantly, a large amount of thermal energy is released. It should be noted that it is allowed to fulfill at least one condition - to provide heating or atomization. True, the efficiency will be somewhat less.

How the burner came to be

Back in 1969, inventor Robert Babington was awarded a patent for this burner. True, today its term has long expired. In 1979, Babington proposed a new burner design. It was fundamentally different in that it had a double air spray. This invention was very similar to the Airtonic burner, which was also made using the technology of this inventor. It was used for military purposes in a field kitchen. Naturally, the burner was powered by diesel fuel and was irreplaceable. The final version was proposed by John Archibald. Many people call this man the inventor of the Babington burner. But it is impossible to give a definite answer. And it is unlikely that this plays a significant role for us. The most important thing is to be able to create such a unit with your own hands and ensure its efficient operation. Fortunately, doing this is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance.

Types of homemade stoves in development

Engine oil contaminated with impurities will not ignite itself. Therefore, the operating principle of any oil stove is based on the thermal decomposition of fuel - pyrolysis. Simply put, to obtain heat, the waste must be heated, evaporated and burned in the furnace firebox, supplying air in excess. There are 3 types of devices where this principle is implemented in different ways:

1. The simplest and most popular direct combustion design with afterburning of oil vapors in an open perforated pipe (the so-called miracle stove).
2. Drip furnace using waste oil with a closed afterburner;
3. Babington burner. How it works and how to make it yourself is described in detail in our other publication.

The efficiency of heating potbelly stoves is low and amounts to a maximum of 70%. Note that the heating costs indicated at the beginning of the article are calculated based on the indicators of factory heat generators with an efficiency of 85% (to get acquainted with the full picture and compare oil with firewood, you can go here). Accordingly, fuel consumption in home-made heaters is much higher - from 0.8 to 1.5 liters per hour versus 0.7 liters for diesel boilers per 100 m² of area. Take this fact into account when starting to manufacture a furnace for testing.

The pyrolysis stove shown in the photo is a cylindrical or square container, one-quarter filled with used oil or diesel fuel and equipped with an air damper. A pipe with holes is welded on top, through which secondary air is sucked in due to the chimney draft. Even higher is an afterburning chamber with a partition for collecting heat from combustion products.

The principle of operation is as follows: the fuel must be ignited using a flammable liquid, after which the evaporation of the waste and its primary combustion will begin, causing pyrolysis. Combustible gases entering the perforated pipe flare up upon contact with the oxygen flow and are completely burned. The intensity of the flame in the firebox is controlled by an air damper.

This stove has only two advantages during testing: simplicity and low cost and independence from electricity. The rest is all downsides:

• stable natural draft is required for operation; without it, the unit begins to smoke into the room and die out;
• water or antifreeze that gets into the oil causes mini-explosions in the firebox, causing fiery drops to splash from the afterburner in all directions and the owner has to put out the fire;
• high fuel consumption - up to 2 l/hour with low heat transfer (the lion's share of the energy flies into the chimney);
• The one-piece housing is difficult to clean from soot.

Although the potbelly stoves look different, they operate on the same principle; in the right photo, fuel vapors burn out inside the wood stove

Some of these shortcomings can be leveled out with the help of successful technical solutions, which will be discussed below. During operation, you should adhere to fire safety rules and prepare used oil - settle and filter.

The cardinal difference of this furnace is the following:

• a perforated pipe is placed inside a steel casing made from a gas cylinder or pipe;
• fuel enters the combustion zone in the form of drops falling to the bottom of a bowl located under the afterburner;
• To increase efficiency, the unit is equipped with air pressurization using a fan, as shown in the diagram.

Dripper diagram with bottom supply of fuel from the fuel tank by gravity.
The real disadvantage of a drip stove is the difficulty of execution for a beginner. The fact is that you cannot rely entirely on other people’s drawings and calculations; the heater must be manufactured and configured to suit your operating conditions and the fuel supply must be properly organized. That is, repeated improvements will be required.

The flame heats the body of the heating unit in one zone around the burner

The second negative point is typical for supercharged stoves. In them, a jet of flame constantly hits one place in the body, which is why the latter will burn out quite quickly if it is not made of thick metal or stainless steel. But the listed disadvantages are more than offset by the advantages:

1. The unit is safe to use because the combustion zone is completely enclosed by an iron casing.
2. Acceptable waste oil consumption. In practice, a well-tuned potbelly stove with a water circuit burns up to 1.5 liters in 1 hour to heat 100 m² of area.
3. It is possible to wrap the body with a water jacket and convert the exhaust furnace into a boiler.
4. The fuel supply and power of the unit can be adjusted.
5. Undemanding to the height of the chimney and ease of cleaning.

We suggest you familiarize yourself with: Shower in a country bathhouse Boiler with pressurized air that burns used engine oil and diesel fuel
Homemade devices can be used for any purpose. Very often they are installed in liquid fuel stoves or universal boilers. During manufacturing, it is important to make a nozzle capable of producing a powerful flame. Requirements for the burner that must be met first:

1. Low electrical energy consumption.
2. Easy to install and easy to use.
3. The burner must have high operating efficiency.
4. The homemade product should work well even when using low-quality and contaminated fuel.

Which one should I do?

Based on the listed features, a homemade waste oil burner can be made according to one of the following. systems:

• Ejection with supercharging.
• Spray injection (Babington burner).
• Fuel-air free volumetric combustion (cup evaporative burner).

Comparative advantages and disadvantages

Ejection

The ejection burner ensures complete combustion of fuel and the minimum possible amount of by-products in the exhaust gases. The flame is hot, over 1200 degrees, fuel consumption is minimal for this class of devices (see also at the end). The power of homemade ones is 1.5-100 kW. Burner power adjustment (modulation) is possible within the entire specified range. It is applicable without restrictions for technological purposes, and in exceptional cases it is applicable for temporary heating of residential premises, if the combustion door of a standard heating stove or boiler opens into a non-residential premises - in the hallway, closet, furnace room, etc.

Note: the kitchen and bathhouse are considered living quarters.

The disadvantages of an ejection burner during mining are also significant:

1. Technically complex: precise metal parts are used that require machine tools for production;
2. In untreated mining, it immediately fails, so it is pointless to make an ejection burner at mining without acquiring a fuel filter station;
3. The most energy-dependent - its own specific power consumption is approx. 20 W per 1 kW of thermal power in the range of the latter 5-40 kW. Below and above these values, the own specific power consumption increases.
4. Requires the supply of control automation, because it is very sensitive to the properties and quality of the fuel, which are also unstable in purified waste;
5. More than other types of burners during testing, they are prone to avoidable operational failures.

Ejection burners are used to burn waste, mainly for heating large premises or to support technological processes in conditions where fuel for them is constantly available.

Injection

An injection burner is completely insensitive to the degree of contamination of the fuel, as long as 30-40% of something combustible remains in it. Technically simpler than the previous one, a Babington burner can be made at home from scrap materials (see below) if you have a tabletop drilling machine. Power range in amateur version – approx. 3-20 kW. Burner modulation is possible from approx. from 30% of maximum power. It is possible to achieve modulation from 10% maximum, but the technical complexity of manufacturing increases significantly, and the tendency to failure increases. Can operate without electrical fuel heating; in this case, its own energy consumption is up to 300 W, regardless of the thermal power; in the vast majority of cases - up to 100 W. If the fuel is heated by a heating element in the storage tank, then its own energy consumption is the same as before. case. Without automatic control, it is prone to failures when changing a batch of fuel without reconfiguring the burner.

For do-it-yourselfers, an important advantage of the Babington burner is that its pressurization can provide compresses from an old broken refrigerator, see below. However, the Babington burner has plenty of disadvantages:

• Fuel does not burn completely. The fuel efficiency of the simplest Babington burner (see below) is approx. 80% It is possible to bring the degree of fuel combustion to 95-97%, but then its technical complexity increases to that of ejection. True, turning and milling machines are still not required for manufacturing, and the burner’s own energy consumption does not increase;
• As a consequence of the previous p., the Babington burner emits a lot of fuel vapor into the air, which makes it absolutely unsuitable for residential premises and limitedly suitable for premises with people and/or objects sensitive to oiling temporarily staying there. However, it is possible to drive the flame of a Babington burner into a pipe (see below), which significantly reduces these disadvantages;
• The flame is also dirty and not very hot, up to 900-1000 degrees. Therefore, an injection burner during processing is of limited applicability for thermal technological processes with ferrous metals, but it will ruin non-ferrous and especially precious metals.

Homemade Babington burners are most often used for temporary heating of utility rooms or in simple technological processes, for example, for heating ordinary structural steel for bending.

Evaporative

A fuel-air burner for processing can be made from scrap materials at hand without the use of complex technological operations. Power – approx. 5-15 kW. Fuel without reconfiguration consumes any heavy fuel: in addition to waste, other mineral and vegetable oils, fuel oil, oil sludge. It only fails if used incorrectly. It emits more by-products of fuel combustion than the previous one, therefore it is applicable either for temporary starting of heating devices with a good chimney in non-residential premises, or in the open air. For technological purposes, its applicability is very limited, because produces a column of hot gases with a temperature of less than 600 degrees. The type of burner that is most accessible for manufacturing by beginning craftsmen is to be tested.

How to weld a simple stove

There is no point in explaining how to make the standard and most common design, shown below in the assembly drawing. Firstly, the diagram is very clear, and secondly, there is no shortage of information of this kind.

Let's move on to a more complex version of the heater with an afterburner bent at 90° (the angle of rotation can be made larger, but not sharper). The purpose of the event is simple - to organize the extraction of heat from hot flue gases, and not immediately throw them out into the street. The second difference is a drawer with oil instead of a traditional closed container, which is inconvenient to clean. The design of the furnace with dimensions is shown in the drawing.

The dimensions of the unit are arbitrary and may change when selecting pipes of a different section

Step-by-step instructions for assembling a furnace for burning waste look like this:

1. Cut blanks for the body, drawer and afterburner. For the latter, the pipes must be cut at an angle of 45°.
2. In a profile with a smaller cross-section, cut out one wall with a grinder, and weld plugs on the sides to create an open container. Attach a handle to the front part protruding over the sides of the box.
3. Weld the structure as shown in the drawing, drill an air hole on top of the fuel chamber and perforate your bent pipe. The heater is ready.

Here the master attached convection fins from a 40 mm steel strip for better heat transfer.
A few words about how to select the number and diameter of the afterburner holes. In our example, its cross-section is 80 x 80 = 6400 mm²; for the calculation you need to take half - 3200 mm². If you use an 8 mm drill, the area of ​​each hole will be 50 mm². Divide 3200 by 50 and we get 64 pieces that need to be drilled during the assembly process; when setting up, their number will increase.

One of the simplest ways to extract heat is to connect the stove to a horizontal pipe 3-4 m long, running at a slope along the wall of the room. Make sure that there are no wooden shelves or fuel cans placed above it and the heater. It is better to fence the walls near the stove with sheet iron.

Now all that remains is to ignite, warm up and configure the oven. Your task is to achieve minimal emissions of black smoke into the street, indicating a lack of air for combustion. It is necessary to drill 3-5 additional holes in the afterburner and check the operation of the unit again until the emission becomes as transparent as possible.

How to make a nozzle for testing with your own hands - Metals, equipment, instructions

When using various waste oils for heating a private home, an eternal problem arises - its preliminary preparation and purification from impurities.

But this process is simplified if a Babington burner is used to burn the waste, which can operate on liquid fuel of any quality. Since its design and principle of operation are of considerable interest, these issues will be discussed in this material.

Here you will find information on how you can make such a burner device with your own hands.

Operating principle of the Babington burner

A few words about the history of the invention. The considered method of burning heavy fractions of liquid fuel appeared relatively recently - in the middle of the last century. More precisely, inventor Robert S. Babington (RS Babington) patented his diesel burner in 1969. However, the patent has long expired and now its device is available to everyone interested.

It should be noted that Babington’s invention is fundamentally different in operating principle from traditional oil burners, where a mixture of air and fuel is supplied by a pressurized nozzle.

Here, waste or diesel is supplied by a pump under low pressure from the tank to the working surface - spherical or inclined. The liquid flows down along it, forming a thin film.

A small diameter hole (no more than 0.3 mm) is made in the center of the surface, through which compressed air is supplied.

The principle on which the Babington waste oil burner works is as follows. A stream of compressed air escaping through a small orifice under pressure tears off part of the oil film from the surface.

The result is a jet of air-fuel mixture, which, after ignition, forms a stable flame. It is directed into the firebox of a furnace or boiler and heats its walls or water jacket.

The figure below shows the operation diagram of the burner device:

Here you can clearly see that the unburned waste oil residues flow from the hemisphere into a special container, and from there back into the main tank. From it, the fuel is supplied for combustion under low pressure, and is preheated to liquefy it. As you can see, the design does not provide any filter elements.

Preheating waste oil or diesel fuel before burning it with a Babington burner is very important and here's why:

1. Liquefied fuel forms a thinner film on the working surface and is better atomized by the air flow. This promotes more efficient combustion.
2. The smaller the droplets of liquid fuel suspended in the stream, the easier it is to ignite a boiler or Babington stove in manual or automatic mode.

For reference. It is quite difficult to find and buy a ready-made Babington burner for a boiler or furnace in a factory version. Well-known manufacturers of oil and diesel units, such as KROLL or EURONORD, do not produce them. There is only one way out - order a burner from a good craftsman or make it yourself.

Pros and cons of the Babington burner

The peculiarity of this type of burner devices is that their positive and negative sides balance each other.

As you might have guessed, the main advantage is the use of heavy liquid fuels of any quality.

Even with a large number of impurities in the used oil, a homemade air-pressurized burner will function properly (unlike other furnaces made to use similar fuel).

The presence of water or automobile antifreeze in the waste stream (within reasonable limits) is not a hindrance, although minor malfunctions may occur. The fact is that the surface tension of water is higher than that of liquid hydrocarbons.

Accordingly, the waste film is more easily torn off from the working surface under the influence of air pressure in a Babington burner.

If there is a little water in the oil, then the latter practically does not enter the combustion zone, but flows down into the sump.

Advice. It is still not worth abusing the “omnivorous” nature of the burner device. It is better to pass the waste through a coarse mesh filter before use.

Another pleasant fact for the user is the large selection of types of liquid fuel used. True, when switching from one to another, you will have to reconfigure the burner according to the dosage of fuel and air. Here is a list of these types:

• waste oils and fuels and lubricants of any origin and viscosity - from cars, machine tools and other machines and mechanisms;
• diesel fuel and biodiesel;
• fresh, old and burnt vegetable oils;
• fuel oil;
• light heating oil, kerosene.

Now about the shortcomings, of which there are also plenty. DIY Babington oil burner is a relatively simple device. But organizing the dosed supply and flow of fuel is quite a challenge.

You will need 2 containers, a pump and a fuel path with a dosage system to regulate the combustion intensity. At the same time, it is necessary to ensure the reliability of the connections, otherwise sooner or later the oil will begin to leak.

When using liquid fuels to heat a house, the boiler room is rarely clean, let alone burning waste. You must understand that the presence of dirt and odors in the furnace room is inevitable.

This also includes reconfiguring equipment to switch from mining to diesel, fuel oil or vegetable fuel.

Occasionally, malfunctions occur during the operation of the burner due to the fact that the nozzle, or rather, the tiny air hole, becomes clogged. Most likely, the reason lies on the compressor side. For example, wear of the piston group leads to oil from the crankcase entering the nozzle and can cause failures.

Separately, it is worth mentioning fire safety measures. When performing work related to the installation of an oil burner device, it is recommended to keep a fire extinguisher on hand. The latter must always be located in the boiler room.

How to make a burner yourself

To understand how to make a Babington burner device, you need to study its design from the drawings. You can find quite a few of these on the Internet, but for manufacturing it is better to adopt the experience of specialists and use a proven prototype for work. Below is a drawing of a burner made and tested by one of the experienced participants in one of the specialized forums:

Now a few words about what the unit can be made from according to this drawing. The author used a regular steel tee with threads for connecting pipes with a diameter of 2 inches (DN50) as a body. Instead of a tee, a cross of the same size will do. The remaining elements are in accordance with the list:

These elements can act as a working hemisphere

1. Hemisphere or hollow ball for a Babington burner. There are several options - starting from a brass door handle and ending with various spherical nuts.
2. The nozzle is made from a metal pipe with an external pipe thread, length – 150-200 mm.
3. Copper tube with a diameter of 10 mm for the fuel path.
4. Metal tube for organizing air supply. Diameter – at least 10 mm.
5. Threaded fittings are used to connect a copper tube to the body.

You will also need a small pump to pump used oil.

Units from a VAZ car or motorcycle cope well with this task; you just need to ensure their rotation from the electric motor. Any low-power compressor is suitable, including one from a refrigerator, since the pressure in the air path should be low (nominal - about 2 Bar, maximum - 4 Bar).

Advice. To dose or shut off the fuel line, it is necessary to install a special valve on it.

An important operation is to drill a calibrated hole of very small diameter in the improvised nozzle. But first you need to select a drill of the required size, because the power of the future homemade Babington burner will depend on the size of the hole. Calculating power will be discussed in the next section, and how to make a small hole yourself is shown in detail in the video:

Power selection

The trick is that it is quite difficult to independently make such a calculation using formulas.

There is data obtained in practice, and it says that different craftsmen make one or more holes with a diameter of 0.1 to 0.3 mm.

There is also more accurate information: if you make a burner with 1 hole measuring 0.25 mm, you will be able to achieve a boiler power of up to 15 kW (depending on the type of fuel).

Advice. You should not make holes that are too large (more than 0.3 mm), this will lead to poor atomization and combustion of the waste. In addition, the device will be more difficult to ignite, and the consumption of liquid fuel will increase unjustifiably.

Based on these data, you can select the thermal power of the unit by the number of holes. To reach 30-35 kW, you will have to drill not one hole 0.25 mm, but two.

Moreover, the distance between them must be maintained at least 8 mm so that the torches of the air-fuel mixture do not extinguish each other. According to experience, when operating a Babington burner, exhaust through one hole is 0.

25 mm, the approximate oil consumption in maximum mode will be up to 2 liters per hour.

Manufacturing recommendations

When the hole is ready, you need to attach an air supply tube to the ball and install it inside the tee. To ensure a sealed exit of the tube from the housing, you will have to make a threaded plug.

A hole is drilled in it, where the tube is inserted. A fitting is cut into the tee from above by soldering, and a copper fuel supply line is connected to it.

Since used oil must be heated before combustion, 2 measures should be taken:

1. An electric heating element with a thermostat is built into the tank, from where the waste material is supplied to the hemisphere.
2. The tube leading from the tank makes several turns around the heated nozzle, due to which the fuel passing through it heats up.

Burner features

In order to burn the oil effectively, it will need to be heated first and then sprayed. For this purpose, an electric heating element is installed. But the energy consumption will be quite large. And the main thing for you in manufacturing is to achieve minimal losses when using the device. The burner must be a source of very cheap heat, which cannot be realized when using heating elements.

If you can’t warm up the oil first, you need to try to atomize it. The simplest burners made according to the Babington scheme can be successfully used in boilers. The design is extremely simple - fuel flows over a spherical surface. A thin hole is made in the latter; compressed air is supplied through it. It turns out that the oil is blown away from the sphere, small drops are formed, which can be ignited.

How to make a burner yourself

The simplicity of the burner design allows it to be easily manufactured in a home workshop or garage. Let's look at how to make a burner of the simplest design.

First of all, you should select materials:

• The body of the future burner is a steel tee with internal thread. Inner diameter – 50 mm.
• The nozzle is made from a squeegee (a piece of threaded pipe). The outer diameter must be 50mm to fit the body. The nozzle length is not less than 100 mm.
• Connection to the fuel line is made through elbow DN 10.
• The fuel line is a copper pipe DN 10, at least a meter long.
• The air duct is a steel tube of the same diameter.
• A metal sphere or hemisphere that can fit freely into a tee.
• Fuel tank and settling tank.
• Heating element for fuel.

The fuel tank should not be located in close proximity to the flare. Otherwise, a fire will occur.

Making a drip heater

Most often, craftsmen use old oxygen and propane cylinders with a diameter of 220 and 300 mm, respectively, to assemble droppers. The former are preferable because of their powerful thick walls that can last a long time and not burn out. A pipe made of low-carbon steel (St 3-10) with a wall thickness of 5 mm or more is also suitable.

Select rolled metal for other parts according to the drawing of the furnace with top feed of waste into the combustion zone. The blower fan is a “snail” from a VAZ 2108 cabin heater or its Chinese equivalent, the fuel line is a stainless tube with a diameter of 8-10 mm.

The manufacturing technology is as follows:

1. Make a fire bowl from a piece of pipe or take a ready-made steel container. It must be removed through the inspection hatch, so do not make the tray too large.
2. Cut openings in the body for the chimney pipe and cleanout hatch. In the latter, make a frame and install the door (possibly bolted).
3. Make an afterburner. Take your time to drill all the holes indicated on the drawing; do the bottom 2 rows first. You will complete the rest while setting up the oven.
4. Weld a cover and an air duct with a flange for mounting the fan to the afterburner. Attach the fuel supply device as shown in the photo.
5. Assemble the heating unit and connect it to the chimney.

We invite you to familiarize yourself with: What styles of clothing are there for men?

The afterburner in the photo is close-up - side and end views

To regulate the heating power, it is necessary to provide control of the fan speed and a device for dosing the fuel supply (as a rule, an automatic drinker with a jet break is used). According to reviews from craftsmen on a popular forum where heat extraction issues are discussed, fuel consumption in the furnace can be monitored visually. The trend is this: if the oil flows in drops at the break in the stream, then less than 1 liter per hour burns, and when a thin stream flows, more than 1 liter per hour.

Different designs of dropper bowls

How to choose a burner for mining

When choosing this boiler module, the determining factor is power. The fuel preheating mechanism and injector design are important.

Power

It determines the performance characteristics of the burner. Installing a 30 kW device in a 15 kW boiler is unacceptable and will lead to melting of the structure. The data sheets of store products indicate the heat transfer and the dimensions of the recommended and maximum heated areas.

Number of steps

Heat transfer power is regulated in 2 ways:

1. Single-stage burners heat the coolant to a given temperature. Next, the fuel supply is blocked, the boiler cools down to the set value, and the cycle repeats.
2. Two-stage designs operate without shutting down in 2 modes: at full power - when the system warms up to the planned levels (after which it begins switching to economical oil consumption), half or two-thirds less.

Power control is carried out by the burner.

This method of adjustment requires equipment with automation, which increases the cost of the design, but reduces operating costs by 15-20%.

If the supply of fuel and air is fully automated and is guided by the readings of temperature sensors of the coolant, heated and burned oil, the volume of incoming air and fuel, then such units are called smooth two-stage and modulating.

Size and volume

The burners are compact, their performance does not directly depend on the size of the heating devices and is determined by design solutions at the planning stage.

Burner material

Its body is made of corrosion-resistant steel parts, fuel lines are made of soft non-ferrous metals (copper) and their alloys.

Oil consumption

The amount of fuel for heating the room depends on:

• heat loss of serviced areas;
• territorial affiliation with climatic zones (in the Arctic region winter is colder and longer);
• the amount of impurities and their effect on the caloric content of the combustible mixture;
• unit efficiency;
• settings of the heating device and its power;
• number of working hours and temperature conditions of the heated room.

Oil consumption depends on the heat loss of the serviced areas.

The approximate figure for the middle zone of the country is 2.5-4 tons with a round-the-clock consumption of 3 liters per hour.

Burner operation

The article shows a simplified diagram of the burner, which allows you to understand the principle of its operation. After spraying, the mixture is ignited, and the flame is used for some purpose. You can install this burner in a boiler running on any type of fuel. In principle, no one is stopping you from making a boiler yourself.

To make combustion more efficient, you can make a heating system, just use a low-power heating element in it. In this case, efficiency will increase, heat transfer will improve, and the flame will have a beautiful and even flame.

Advantages and disadvantages of a liquid fuel burner

This equipment has a lot of advantages, the main ones are:

• Easy to make with your own hands and use.
• Wide distribution of drawings for the manufacture of fixtures.
• Cheapness of used oil used as fuel. These devices are perfect for transport organizations and companies where there is a lot of waste. In this way, waste can be disposed of and space heating can be carried out.
• Efficiency and functionality of devices.
• Mobility of the device.

Despite the listed advantages, the burner also has a drawback. It is quite demanding on the quality of used oil.

Conclusions and recommendations for heat extraction

The main conclusion is this: if you are both a welder and a mechanic, then you will solve the problem of making an oil stove without much difficulty. You will only have to tinker with setting up and organizing the supply of waste in the dropper.

3 types of chimney heat exchangers - convection, air and water economizer

As you understand, simply making a stove using diesel fuel and exhausting it is not enough; you also need to properly take away the maximum heat from it, and not let it fly out uselessly into the chimney. The following methods are practiced:

1. As mentioned above, you can lay a chimney at a slope along the entire length of the room, and then take it vertically to the street.
2. Use a household fan to blow the housing.
3. Scald the body of the potbelly stove with additional heat-removing fins.
4. Make and install an economizer (popularly called a register and a boiler) on the chimney - a samovar-type heat exchanger. These are used in solid fuel boilers and consist of several smoke pipes washed from the outside with water.

The simplest way to remove heat from a heated firebox is to weld convection fins

Important point. It is not recommended to blow through the body of the miracle stove for obvious reasons. The water circuit installed on the chimney must be connected to a heating system with forced circulation and an open expansion tank to protect it from boiling. During periodic combustion, the pipelines are filled with antifreeze.

Connection diagram of a water economizer to radiator heating

Fuel supply

Amateur craftsmen often supply drip furnaces with single-stage fuel: an oil tank, a ball valve, and a supply tube. Firstly, this is dangerous: for convenience and safety of starting the stove, the valve must be placed closer to it. The supply tube gets quite hot when fuel is supplied from the bottom. If the heating passes through the pipe past the valve, up to which there is a solid column of fuel in the pipe, this could lead to disaster. Secondly, the fuel supply to the furnace is unstable: as the tube warms up, the drops become more frequent, because the oil thins out. If it flows in a trickle, then it is again dangerous.

The drip supply of oil to the furnace during processing should be organized according to a 2-stage scheme: main (storage) oil tank - valve - supply dropper - supply tank (tank) - free flow from it at least 60 mm from the bottom (for additional sedimentation of sludge) - working dropper. The fuel supply is opened when the kindling in the bowl (see below) is lit. While the oil drips into the tank to the level of the drain, you can slowly adjust its flow, and then it drips into the bowl drop by drop.

Scheme of safe power supply of a drip furnace from a supply tank with a safety valve and capillary

This system, however, is not completely safe. If in a hurry, out of ignorance, or simply trying to quickly warm up from the cold, open the valve too much, the consumables will immediately fill, fuel will rush into the stove, and it will throw out a tongue of fire and start spitting burning spray. It would be correct to build a drip oil supply system into the furnace with a safety float valve and a metering capillary (see figure on the right).

Since different metals are wetted by waste in different ways, and its properties vary significantly from batch to batch, the length of the capillary will need to be selected: the oil is fed under a gravitational pressure of 120-150 mm (from a suspended container) at room temperature, and the capillary is selected so that it drips more often, but with drops clearly visible to the eye. A diesel fuel drip furnace can be used from the same feeder, but the capillary will need to be taken with a clearance of 0.6-1 mm and a length 2.5-3 times longer than for mining. There is only one drawback to this scheme for supplying fuel to a drip furnace: the exhaust is dirty fuel, and the capillary will have to be cleaned periodically.

Advantages of the Babington burner

This design has quite a lot of advantages. The most important thing is that there is no need to pre-clean used oil. After all, you understand that the waste may contain a very large amount of impurities. This is actually why the oil has such a specific black color. You also cannot ignore the second advantage - ease of manufacture. And if you know how to work with tools, you can easily make an effective and simple heat source using cheap fuel.

Waste oil evaporative burners require an additional heat source. Therefore, it is necessary to install heating elements that consume a large amount of electricity. Or you can complicate the design so that the oil is heated and flammable fractions are formed. As for the Babington scheme, it is very simple - you can still do without evaporation, but you just have to use a compressor. This is a design option with lightweight fuel atomization.

Do-it-yourself injection burner

Waste oil is a cheap fuel that can be used to operate a furnace. A waste oil burner may be needed with the arrival of cold weather. Of course, you can use other types of such equipment for heating, but a burner for mining is considered the cheapest and simplest option.

Such a burner has its own characteristics not only in the fact that it can be constructed at a low cost, but also at a low fuel price and at the same time fuel is consumed very economically. But if you work, for example, at a service station and can get work from there for free, then this burner option is generally ideal.

An oil burner that you make yourself can be used for different purposes, for example, for a simple liquid fuel stove or for operating a universal boiler. For optimal operation of such a burner, the main thing is to make a nozzle. The nozzle provides the power of the flame. Also, for optimal operation of the burner during mining, certain requirements must be met.

Babington's invention is fundamentally different in operating principle from traditional oil burners, where a mixture of air and fuel is supplied by a pressurized nozzle

Namely:

• Ease of use;
• Low power consumption;
• Efficiency at work;
• Possibility of working on unrefined fuel.

For the combustion of waste to be efficient, it must be heated or atomized. The best option would be to heat the oil using a heating element such as a heating element.

But such heating will significantly increase electricity consumption.

A burner that runs on liquid fuel must be economical, but with heating the fuel using electricity, savings are not possible, since the tariffs for electricity consumption are very high.

The Babington waste oil burner has a huge number of advantages. The main advantage of such a burner is that there is no need to clean the used oil, although such oil contains a lot of additives and is a very dirty black liquid.

Another advantage is that such a burner is quite easy to use and simple to design.

If you are comfortable with tools, then you can easily assemble such equipment yourself and get an effective and simple heater at your disposal.

The burner is an evaporative type burner that requires the use of an additional heating source. This requirement leads to the need to use a huge amount of electricity or it is necessary to complicate the design of the burner, that is, it is necessary to heat the fuel to such a state that it breaks down into easily flammable particles.

The Babington burner is made much simpler, since it has a compressor for atomizing the fuel. With this compressor, flammable substances are easily atomized and burn just as well.

We prepare the equipment: do-it-yourself waste oil burner

It is easier to make a burner for mining from the very beginning. Also, to make a burner, you can upgrade old ones, but this will be expensive.

According to user reviews, converting a diesel fuel burner into a waste oil burner will cost a lot of money, and the design itself will require additional heating of the fuel.

When designing a burner, you will need a nozzle for spraying; it is better to order it ready-made rather than redo it.

Ready-made waste oil burners are very high quality and economical, and the best choice is the Gnome burner. The power of such a burner varies, and the fuel is atomized by compressing air.

The best option when making a burner for mining is to use a blowtorch.

Let's remember how a blowtorch works:

• We fill the lamp with gasoline, which will be supplied to the nozzle by pumping pressure into the lamp;
• The injector warms up at the beginning, this is necessary for the combustion of fuel in an evaporated state;
• Since gasoline is a highly purified fuel, its passage through the nozzle is not hampered in any way.

Having a fire extinguisher when using a waste oil burner is mandatory, as there is a constant risk of the burner catching fire.

If we compare waste oil and gasoline, then used oil contains microparticles of metal, gasoline combustion products, gasoline, different fractions of decomposed oil, and much more. It is this composition of the waste that leads to very rapid contamination of the nozzle in the burner.

There are ways to modernize the nozzle, but such modernization will not pay off. And so let's look at the method of making a Babington waste oil burner on our own.

Selection of tools: DIY Babington burner

A DIY boiler waste oil burner is a money-saving option.

If you compare such burners with finished products, you will obviously save a lot of money, and if you have the necessary spare parts and tools, then manufacturing the burner will be free.

The most expensive spare part in the burner design is the refrigerator compressor, which can create a pressure of 2 to 4 atmospheres.

Preheating waste oil or diesel fuel before burning with a Babington burner is very important

Conversion of industrial burners

It is worth noting that making a waste oil burner from scratch is much easier than remaking industrial designs. After all, you will still need to invest. For example, when converting a diesel fuel burner you will have to spend quite a lot of money. As a result, the design turns out to be very complex and the oil needs to be heated. It is much cheaper to buy a ready-made oil burner or make one yourself.

We invite you to familiarize yourself with: Do-it-yourself stove made from a cast iron bath

Some people try to make a burner from a blowtorch. But this is not a very good option, since its operating principle is very different from what is needed. In a blowtorch, the nozzle warms up, and the oil is forced out of the nozzle due to pressure. Gasoline is a purified fuel, which cannot be said about used oil.

It contains metal impurities, combustion products of diesel fuel or gasoline, as well as other types of contaminants. As a result, the nozzle becomes clogged very quickly. You can, of course, modernize it, but the game is not worth the candle - it is too expensive and labor-intensive. Therefore, it is recommended to give preference to the Babington burner.

About converting a blowtorch for testing

Some home craftsmen, having studied the operating principle of the Babington burner, are trying to convert an ordinary blowtorch to burn waste oil. The goal is to reduce the cost and simplify manufacturing, because the processes in these two devices are supposedly similar. This opinion is erroneous, since a blowtorch functions differently than the homemade burner described here.

In the lamp, air is pumped into a tank of gasoline with one purpose - to push it out and deliver it to the nozzle. In this case, the fuel goes through the stage of heating and evaporation. The nozzle supplies gasoline vapor to the combustion zone; the liquid can be observed there only at the ignition stage, when the “head” of the blowtorch has not yet warmed up. The used oil will not be able to evaporate and the nozzle will supply it in the form of large droplets, which does not contribute to normal combustion. And the cross-section of the jet will quickly become clogged with various impurities.

The conclusion is simple: it will not be possible to convert a blowtorch to burn heavy liquid fuel.

Burner assembly

Now let’s come closer to how to make a burner with your own hands during testing. The advantage is obvious - you will receive a high-quality device that will work perfectly and can compete with any industrial design. And most importantly, its cost is very low. You will need a compressor capable of providing a pressure of at least 2 atm.

The ideal option is from an old refrigerator. You also need to have the following materials:

1. Fuel tank with a heating element installed in it. The heater will not work constantly; it helps partially warm up the oil.
2. The second tank is designed to collect oil not sent to the injector.
3. Copper tube to supply air to the burner sphere.
4. Pipe for draining waste.
5. Pump for pumping excess into the main tank.
6. Metal pipe with a diameter of 2 inches for the nozzle.
7. Tee for two-inch pipe.
8. Materials for spherical nozzle.

When you have prepared all the materials, you can begin manufacturing a burner for solid fuel boilers.

Now let's talk about how to make a working burner and start it up. In fact, after the injector has been manufactured, we can safely say that the main part has been manufactured and only assembly is expected. Now you need to combine everything in the body. And as it you can use a tee and a metal pipe screwed to it.

The sprayer is placed inside the tee and secured with fittings. You need to make a hole in the tee itself; a tube for supplying used oil is placed in it. It is necessary that it ends above the sprayer. The lower element of the tee is used as the outlet tube. An adapter for a thin tube is screwed in here, through which the excess will flow into the drain tank. To organize the supply and removal of oil, you need to use flexible thin copper tubes.

Schemes and designs

Ejection

Another feature of mining as a fuel is that it is very difficult to supply all the air necessary for its combustion under pressurization; a lot of it is required. Therefore, by pressurizing in burners of this type, fuel is mainly drawn out from the ejector nozzle and atomized, and air for afterburning is sucked directly into the flame. This scheme makes it possible to use electric power of up to 100 W for supercharging, and the rest is spent on heating the fuel with a heating element. In general, the idea is this: we use part of the electrical power (with a significant increase, by the way) necessary for pressurization with more fluid fuel to heat the waste, and a generally conventional ejection burner works on it.

Diagram of the ejection burner during testing and drawings of the nozzle for it

A well-known diagram of the design of an ejection burner during testing and drawings of its heart - the nozzle for approx. 3-30 kW are given in Fig. Such a burner is installed on a blind flange in the combustion opening of the furnace/boiler, and secondary air is sucked into the torch through the ash pan. However, in addition to the nozzle, there are still subtle points in this design.

Turbulizer

The first of them is an air flow turbulator (swirler in the diagram in the figure above). Pressurization of the ejector burner during processing can be provided by a built-in volute fan or, through a gearbox, by the pneumatic system of the enterprise or by an industrial (possibly domestic of a similar design) piston compressor. For a burner power of about 3-15 kW, boost from a refrigeration compressor of 250 W electric is also possible.

Depending on the method of pressurization, the design of the turbulator changes. The compressor or compressed air distribution for driving pneumatic tools provides, under the conditions necessary for fuel ejection in the burner air jacket, an air flow that is too powerful and fast. The same is possible with a snail that is too powerful, for example taken from old trash. In this case, the turbulator should be an annular diaphragm around the nozzle with wide, slightly curved outer blades, pos. 1 and 2 in Fig. A pseudo-laminar jet of air from the diaphragm will pull the fuel out of the nozzle and ensure its stable ignition (see below), and 3-5 cm from the diaphragm, the burning oil mist will be picked up by a powerful whirlwind, atomized until it evaporates and is completely burned.

Design of the turbulator (swirler) of an ejection burner during testing, depending on the pressurization method

If the air flow is optimal (built-in volute by calculation) or weak (compressor from a refrigerator), then a turbulator made of many narrow, more curved internal blades is combined with the diaphragm, and an annular gap of 0.5-1.5 cm is left along the edge of the turbulator. Diaphragm - the swirler has less resistance to the air flow, a weak but immediately well-twisted vortex effectively sucks out and sprays the fuel, and the annular flow from the gap prevents the vortex from spreading to the sides until the fuel evaporates in the torch.

Note: the appropriateness of one or another turbulator for a particular burner is determined by experience - fuel ignition should be stable, and there should be no flameouts throughout the entire burner power adjustment range. You need to start with the diaphragm with the outer blades, bending them more and more. If it doesn’t work out, you need to switch to a turbulator diaphragm with internal blades.

Ignition

The second subtlety is igniting the torch. An auto candle with a removed “foot” (body lamella) is not very suitable, because designed to ignite light fuel vapor with a short spark, and not heavy fog with a long spark.

Method of igniting the fuel of an ejection burner during production using two electrodes

The burner torch must be ignited during production using electrodes for igniting liquid fuel boilers, see fig. The distance between the dischargers (spouts, points) of the electrodes is required to be 3-8 mm (for burners 3-30 kW), and the distance from the bare metal parts of the electrodes to the nearest metal parts of the structure must be at least three times greater. Turning on the nozzle: at the moment of ignition, the spark gaps must be in the oil mist emitted by the nozzle and ignite it with a spark among themselves. Ignition with a spark from a spark gap to the injector will produce a weak, unstable flame that can easily be disrupted by fluctuations in boost or fuel supply.

To ignite with two spark gaps, a special ignition transformer with an insulated secondary winding of 6-8 kV is required. Its terminals are connected to the ignition electrodes with wires in thick, from 2 mm, heat-resistant insulation made of silicone or Teflon (fluoroplastic). The latter is better: when heated to 150 degrees, the penetration resistance of fluoroplastic-4 remains approx. 80 kV per 1 mm, and silicone will not exceed 20 kV/mm. Such a huge margin of electrical strength is necessary due to severe contamination of the wires during operation.

A special ignition transformer is expensive because... These are produced for boilers from 20 kW. If the burner power is up to 15 kW (and for the Babington burner described below), you can use a single-wire ignition circuit from a car ignition coil with a spark from the electrode to the nozzle; This means the presence of only one high-voltage wire. The condition is manual switching to the mode: the burner is lit at minimum power and manually brought to the standard setting, making sure that the torch does not clog in convulsions or break.

To ignite the burner during testing using a single-wire circuit, the body terminal of the transformer is connected to the burner body and the nozzle with different return wires. The spark is not a direct current, but a pulsed discharge, and the electrical circuit becomes sensitive to the presence of reactivity in it. The electrical reactivity of the massive burner body is greater than that of the nozzle, which already makes it easier for the spark to choose the nozzle. If you additionally include a small inductance in the body return wire (see figure), then single-wire ignition will become quite stable.

Burner ignition circuit for testing with one electrode

About automation

Burners for testing, the operating mode of which is set from a remote control (for example, the well-known NORTEC) are very expensive, but without automation there is no point in installing a homemade ejection burner for testing: even with a fixed power and filling with fuel from the same batch, it is necessary to regulate simultaneously to obtain a stable flame fuel heating and air supply. Therefore, homemade ejection burners during development (excluding samples, just to tinker with them) are made semi-automatic with manual power setting and the use of relatively inexpensive automation from heating boilers, see for example. video

Video: burner in operation with automation

Babington burner

Robert Babington himself, who patented his burner in 1979, admitted that, having despaired of coming up with a nozzle that would not become clogged from working out, he remembered one of Murphy’s laws, which states: “If the iron still doesn’t want to work, try making it it's the other way around." Babington tried blowing air through a thin layer of oil - it worked. The fog began to set in, and how to burn it is a known matter.

This technical solution was possible due to the fact that oil is a rheological liquid. Simply - superfluid. It is not only exotic helium II that is superfluid. There are plenty of rheological fluids all around us. Anyone who has forgotten an open jar of sunflower oil on the table will immediately understand.

The design of the Babington burner and the combustion chamber (afterburner) for it

The design of the Babington burner is shown on the left in the figure, and on the right is the design of the combustion chamber (afterburner) for it. The disadvantage of this burner is already visible here: to burn the waste by more than 95%, a 3-stage air supply is required (except for atomization), and partially heated. Although boost is still not required.

The Babington burner operates quite simply: fuel drips onto a spray head with a spherical surface, which ensures its uniform spreading. It drips in excess so that the air always has something to blow off. The oil thrown out by a jet of air from the nozzle in the head forms a mist, which is set on fire. The fuel film constantly creeps onto the nozzle due to the rheological properties of the oil. Excess fuel flows into the collection tank, from where the feed pump supplies it through the heater back to the supply tank (feeder). Often, instead of a float turning on the pump, the feeder is provided with the excess in the tank draining directly into the collection tank; In this case, the feed pump operates continuously. However, the Babington burner also has enough design nuances.

Is a full sphere necessary?

The power removed from one Babington burner nozzle is limited by the finite value of oil fluidity. Therefore, the heads of powerful Babington burners are literally riddled with pores. If no more than 5-7 kW is required from the burner, it is possible to use part of the spherical surface instead of a technologically complex full-spherical head.

Design of a Babington burner with a head in the form of part of a sphere

The design of a Babington burner with a partially spherical spray head is shown in Fig. (how to make one is described in detail and with photos here: diyworkplace.ru/14-diy-oil-burner.html). In addition to the availability of materials, it is good to learn how to adjust the fuel supply with this burner: a little more, the oil flows behind the blade of the head, stinks, burns, and clogs the spray chamber.

The sphere is still better

The spherical head in the Babington burner is also better because it saves fuel: in a burner with a partially spherical head, a good portion of the return burns until it is impossible to use. In the end, it turns out that there is still a quarter or more in the tank, but the burner does not start.

How to make a Babington burner spray head from inexpensive materials for a completely different purpose, widely available, is shown in the figure:

How to make a Babington burner spray head from scrap materials

The good thing about a curtain rod plug is that its cut surface is flat and even. Drilling a nozzle hole in such a head blank is not difficult on a conventional drilling machine. If it moves away from the pole of the sphere within 1-2 mm, it’s okay. The main thing is that the axes of the nozzle and the sphere will be parallel and the torch will shoot evenly. You can even increase the power of the burner by drilling 3-4 holes around the pole of the sphere no closer than 6 mm from each other in a triangle or square. All that remains is to decide - how to drill?

How to make a 0.25 hole with a 0.6 drill

The permissible limits for the diameter of the Babington burner nozzle are 0.1-0.5 mm. Less maximum power is removed from a narrow nozzle, but the range of its adjustment is expanded, which is carried out by changing the air pressure for spraying. The latter for a 0.1 mm nozzle can vary within 0.5-5 atm, for a 0.25 mm nozzle - 1-3 atm, and the pressure in front of a 0.5 mm nozzle must be kept within 2 (+/-)0, 2 atm, otherwise the flame either breaks or goes out. Babington recognized the nozzle diameter of 0.25 mm as optimal; narrower nozzles become clogged with dust from the air, which requires at least 2-stage cleaning.

But how to drill a hole with a diameter of 0.25 mm? You can’t buy drills like this everywhere, and the machine needs high precision, otherwise the drill will immediately break.

The way out is to make a nozzle from part of a needle from a medical syringe. The channel diameters of syringe needles are 0.2-1 cubic meters. cm are just within optimal limits, and their outer diameter is 0.4-0.6 mm. These drills are widely available, and they can be inserted into a regular tabletop drill. Making a Babington burner nozzle from a medical needle is done as follows. way:

• Cut a piece from the needle 2-3 mm longer than the thickness of the head wall.
• We use a thin, stiff wire to remove sawdust and burrs.
• Using a drill slightly larger than the outer diameter of the needle, we drill a pioneer channel in the head. If you use a 0.6 drill to drill a channel for a 0.4 needle from the outside, it’s okay.
• Using a drill with a diameter 0.15-0.2 mm larger than the pioneer one, we countersink the hole on both sides. The chamfer needs to be removed tiny, so we countersink by hand, wrapping the drill shank with electrical tape and turning it with your fingers.
• We insert a piece of needle into the pioneer hole.
• Using two sharp awls or, better yet, metalworker's scribers, we unfold the ends of the needle segment. You need to unfold it at the same time, pressing lightly and turning the tools in opposite directions.
• We leave the bell inside as is, it does not interfere with anything.
• We remove the external excess using an emery stone no rougher than No. 360.
• Once again we clean the nozzle channel, blow it out - the head is ready.

What if the head is already ready?

A very possible option. If you take a ready-made diesel fuel nozzle onto the head; A defective one made from junk or cheap will do. Fans are confused by the fact that they are produced with a power of 20 kW, but in this case there is nothing to be afraid of, because It is not diesel fuel that will flow into the nozzle, but air. But its working surface is precisely hemispherical, mirror-smooth, with a collar that prevents the oil from flowing where it shouldn’t and burning. The nozzle, however, will be from 0.7 mm, but it can be narrowed as described above. How to make a Babington burner head from a diesel injector, suitable for long-term intensive use, and even with automation from a water heating boiler, see the story

Video: Babington burner with automation

Compressor for atomization

Atomizing air in a Babington burner requires a little air, but under decent pressure. A compressor from an old refrigerator is best suited for this purpose, but you need to put a car air filter in front of it, otherwise the vacuum pump will quickly fail. You also need a receiver, because... Such a compressor will produce a highly pulsating jet.

How to adapt a compressor from a refrigerator to supply air to a Babington burner during mining

The great advantage of such a system is the ability to automate burner ignition without electronics. For this we use a safety valve (see figure), because The refrigeration compressor builds up pressure to more than 5 atm. Let's take the worst valve, a disc valve with a flat seat (the disc and seat will need to be ground together with abrasive No. 600 or finer and washed with alcohol). Such valves have a large hysteresis (the ratio of opening and closing pressures), but in this case that’s what we need. We will also increase the hysteresis of the valve by placing a weight on its stem. When the compressor pumps the receiver to the initial response pressure, the valve will “puff” sharply, jump up and close the microswitch that supplies power to the ignition transformer for 1-2 seconds. The oil consumption will go up for combustion, the air flow will increase (it is more difficult to blow through a cold oil film), and the valve will begin to work part-time, not reaching the mic. The adjusting nut is convenient for changing the air pressure to change the burner power.

Compressor lubrication

In a refrigerator, the compressor is lubricated with refrigerant, because It pumps out freon mist from the evaporator rather than pure steam. Suddenly the compressor starts to sputter, which means that there is too much refrigerant and it circulates in the system in a droplet-liquid state. If you force a refrigeration compressor to pump air, it will soon deteriorate without lubrication.

You can lubricate the refrigerator compressor with a spindle or other machine oil for precision mechanics. First you need to make a lubricant dispenser, from a 50-100 ml tank, a needle from a regular syringe for 2-10 cc, a tube from a blood transfusion machine and a pair of clamps from the same. The upper one shuts off the lubricant supply, and the lower one regulates its amount.

The dispenser is adjusted in free space. It is necessary to ensure that a drop of lubricating oil accumulates on the tip of the needle, pointing straight down, for 2-4 minutes, and hangs for the same amount of time until it comes off. Then the needle is inserted perpendicularly into the compressor supply air duct so that its bevel is in the middle of the lumen and oriented along the flow. If the needle is turned sideways or against the air, the oil will not flow.

The system is ready for use, but you will still need to monitor it during operation. Suddenly, some time after starting the burner, the combustion character changes, which means that a lot of oil goes into the compressor and it drives the excess with air. If at least 10 minutes have passed before this, and the flame remains, just begins to pulsate or smoke, you can correct the matter by slightly turning the needle, no more than 45 degrees. If it doesn’t help or symptoms appear earlier, you need to reconfigure the lubricant dispenser for a longer drop accumulation time.

Flame down the chimney!

You can do an interesting experiment with a burner during testing, the results of which are visible in the trace. rice.:

Using a burner during mining to heat rooms

Having passed the burner flame through just 1 m of a wide pipe, we will see it no longer so furious and much cooled down (pos. 1), and a powerful flow of heated air will be noticeable from the pipe up. If you take a pipe with a diameter of 200 mm and a length of 3 m (item 2), then the temperature of the gases at its outlet will drop to less than 100 degrees. Let's expose the mouth of the pipe to the outside - the oily stench in the room will no longer be felt, although the gas analyzer will show that the impurities exceed the housing norm. All that remains is to hermetically connect the mouth of the pipe to the chimney, and we will get a heating system with an efficiency of more than 80%.

Evaporative

The waste can be burned without pressurization or heating at all, by dropping it drop by drop into a hot bowl. But such devices, as mentioned above, work more or less decently only as part of a boiler or furnace during mining, so they are not burners in the proper sense and are discussed in other publications.

Evaporative fuel-air (cup) burners in production

A fuel-air mixture is supplied to the bowl of the evaporation burner during exhaustion, i.e. a small boost is required (fan from 20 W). The bowl is preheated either with a gas torch (item 1 in the figure), or with regular fuel supplied dropwise (not yet pressurized), ignited by a glow plug (item 2). The latter is easier, but during the first 3-5 minutes there will be a lot of soot. When the flame from the next drop is cleared and begins to rise with noise, the candle is turned off and air is allowed in. Blue tongues will appear in the bowl (positions 3 and 4), indicating complete combustion of the oil, but impurities in it will transform into a chemically more aggressive form and go into the air, so you need to use evaporation burners during processing carefully, see above. The evaporation burner is not critical to the size of the parts; base – 1/2″ and 2″ water pipes.

Note: for temporary start-up of, for example, a garage potbelly stove, it would be more convenient to use an evaporative burner that operates on the same principle, but into which the fuel-air mixture is supplied tangentially from the side, see the video below:

Video: evaporation burner in production for a furnace

Nozzle

First you need to make a spherical nozzle; fuel will flow through it in the future. Make a hole in the sphere; the diameter should be approximately 0.25 mm. Please note that the power of a homemade burner depends on the diameter. The smaller the diameter, the lower the power and vice versa. All difficulties await you in the manufacture of the nozzle.

But if luck smiles on you and you find a jet with the required diameter, then do not miss the opportunity and place it in the center of the spherical element. If you can’t find a hemisphere, you can use a small piece of sheet metal with a jet attached inside. As a result, you will receive an oil spray nozzle.

Waste oil burner

Manufacturing difficulty: ★★★★★

Production time: A couple of days

Available materials: ██████░░░░ 60%

Preface

I work in a car repair shop and am faced with the problem of waste disposal.

I recently found an interesting diagram on the Internet and decided to make a burner for testing

with your own hands, and it can work with unrefined oil mixed with water or even with shavings! The basic idea is this: oil flows over a spherical surface and spreads over it in a thin film. If air or flammable gas is introduced through a small hole in the surface (just below the oil layer), the jet will finely atomize the oil. If you set it on fire, you get an excellent oil torch.

Materials

• Bucket
• Sheet iron
• Automotive oil pump
• Engine for oil pump with speed controller
• Bolt M10
• Copper tube
• Heat and light sensors
• Solenoid air valve

Tools

• Drill
• Grinder or hacksaw
• Welding machine
• Keys, pliers
• Soldering iron

Making a burner nozzle during testing

• Step 2 It was not possible to find a metal sphere, so I welded a strip of stainless steel to an M10 bolt and sanded it into a spherical shape.
• Step 3 In the center of the bolt I made a hole with a diameter of 5 mm, and pressed an aluminum plug into this hole, and made a hole in it with a diameter of 0.3 mm. I didn’t have a thinner drill, but they still recommend making a 0.25 mm hole.
• Step 4 I inserted the nozzle into a 1.5″ cast iron tee and made a base for the tee with a water seal for safety.
• Scheme
• Step 5: Roll the copper tube into a spiral with a diameter slightly larger than the outlet diameter of the tee. To avoid damaging the structure of the tube, pour sand into it before bending.
• Step 6 Attach the tube to the tee. Babington burner assembly. The oil is supplied through a copper pipe. The tube is bent into a spiral to ensure heating of the oil. Heated oil becomes more liquid and atomizes better
• Nozzle Front view, you can see the nozzle in the center Here is the burner in operation. You can see how finely the oil is sprayed

Automation of the burner during production

• Step 7 I went further and decided to make the Babington burner fully automatic so that I could turn it into a heating system. Got a couple of solenoid air valves
• Action plan To start a homemade burner during testing, I will try to use a purchased propane burner. If you use propane instead of air at the nozzle, you can do without an ignition burner. The automation will work something like this: the controller opens the gas tap and supplies a spark. When a flame sensor (thermocouple, for example) detects the presence of a flame, the ignition is turned off and after a while the oil and air supply is turned on, after which the presence of a flame on the burner is monitored by an optical sensor. As soon as the flame begins to flicker steadily, the gas to the igniting burner is turned off. A temperature sensor will also be installed, and after overheating above the critical temperature, the Babington burner will turn off, cool down, and turn on again. The nozzle had to be replaced with a smaller one, it burns a little weaker (otherwise it was impossible to approach). You can implement stepwise power adjustment; for this we make two nozzles with different diameters, one larger than the other. We connect them to two different air valves, and we get three power levels, one nozzle, the second, or both at once.
• Step 8 I made an igniting burner by looking at the device on a Chinese burner
• Step 9 The Babington burner operates on propane at a pressure of 0.2-1 kg/cm. A tube with a car spark plug is welded to the burner for attaching the ignition burner and a tube for the flame presence sensor.
• Intermediate results It starts wonderfully, with one spark, burns very steadily, the flame does not blow away. The propane pressure is set low to allow the Babington burner to operate in the cold, when the pressure in the cylinder drops to 0.5-1 kg/cm.
• Step 10 Automation requires sensors. The first thing I did was remove the thermocouple from the discarded boiler.
• Step 11Also found an infrared phototransistor for the sensor
• Step 12 Developed a simple diagram. The LM339n chip was taken from a computer power supply
• Step 13: Assembling the automation
• with a demonstration of the operation of sensors. For complete automation, you can use Arduino.
• Step 14 Completely assembled my Babington burner, added steel shields to protect from the heat.
• Final romka10.06

operation of a homemade waste oil burner

Results of work and advice

• Air consumption is very low, only a few liters per hour.
• The burner operates on waste oil of any degree of contamination with chips or anything else.
• Oil consumption is also very low
• It warms up much more than you might imagine
• Solves the problem of waste oil disposal
• With the right approach to automation, you can get a “Smart Home” with automatic temperature control (beneficial for country houses or garages)
• It burns completely without soot, very hot: power is no less than 10 kW.
• The air pressure at the nozzle is 2 kg/cm2, if less, it does not burn, if more, the flame breaks out.
• Thus, it is clear that with your own hands you can assemble a very powerful burner for testing
  , which shows itself excellently: economical, high efficiency, relatively easy to manufacture and heats up like hell.

View all projects by tag: burner

Completion of production

The burner will have a powerful flame, but for smooth operation it is important that all designs of external elements are thought out correctly. In the considered option, the waste flows down the sprayer in the shape of a sphere, but most of it returns back to the tank, a small amount ends up in the nozzle. To increase efficiency, it is recommended to install at least a weak heating element in the main tank.

To increase the service life of the unit, it is recommended to treat the connections with high-temperature sealants. It is recommended to install a thermostat on the heating element (if one is not provided). It is enough to warm the oil to a temperature of 70 degrees, there is no point in doing more. The end result should be three nodes consuming power. These include:

1. Compressor.
2. Oil pump.
3. A heating element.

Unfortunately, it is not possible to make a completely energy-independent design, since it is not recommended to exclude a heating element or an oil pump. As for the compressor, without it the burner will not work at all. But you still save a lot on fuel - used oil costs a penny.

Tags: stove, homemade, nozzle

« Previous entry

How to make a nozzle for testing with your own hands? — Handyman's Handbook

During the operation of automobile and tractor transport, a significant amount of waste oil is generated.
According to environmental legislation, this oil cannot be poured onto the ground or down the drain, but must be disposed of at special enterprises, incurring significant costs for the budget.

Robert Babington's invention allows us to solve this problem by using the waste for heating premises or for heating technological installations. His burner, being simple in design and accessible to the home craftsman, is reliable and highly energy efficient.

Burner in progress

What is a Babbington burner?

The design of a Babbington liquid fuel burner is simple enough that you can make it yourself in a home workshop. The exhaust burner has the following main components and parts:

• waste container;
• fuel line;
• fuel pump; included in a fuel line break;
• hemisphere with a small diameter hole;
• an air nozzle opening into this hole;
• tray for draining fuel.

Burner design diagram

The fuel line ends at a certain height above the hemisphere, the waste flows down it and evaporates, the vapors are drawn into the air stream, forming a fuel mixture. The fuel that has not had time to evaporate falls into the pan, and from it through the pipe system back into the fuel container.

Despite the apparent simplicity of the device, for its effective and, most importantly, safe operation, it is necessary to accurately manufacture the main parts and correctly position them relative to each other. Therefore, it is better to download ready-made drawings of the Babington burner and follow the dimensions indicated in them.

Principle of operation

In most known oil burners, the oil-air mixture is supplied through a nozzle under pressure. In contrast, in the Babington system, oil is supplied by a low-pressure pump and flows freely over a surface shaped like a sphere or close to it.

The fuel forms a thin film and evaporates, carried away by a stream of air supplied under pressure into a small (up to 0.3 millimeter) hole in the center of the sphere. Oil vapor and air mix, forming a torch of the fuel mixture.

This torch is ignited and heats what needs to be heated - the walls of the furnace or the liquid heat exchanger of the boiler.

Operating principle

Some of the oil does not have time to evaporate and burn and flows below the hole, ending up in the fuel collection pan. The waste then flows from the sump into the fuel tank and is reused.

To increase the fluidity and volatility of the mining, it is heated. The heated waste is sprayed into droplets of a smaller volume, which also improves the quality of the fuel mixture and the overall efficiency of the device.

How to make a working burner

To make a waste oil burner with your own hands, you will need:

• crosspiece for water pipes with internal thread, 2 inches in diameter;
• a piece of two-inch pipe with a cut external thread, 15-20 cm long;
• copper tube with a diameter of 10 millimeters for supplying fuel;
• metal tube for air supply;
• compressor 2-4 bar;
• oil pump;
• fittings for connecting the fuel line;
• valve for the fuel line to regulate fuel flow;
• hemisphere - a brass furniture handle or spherical nut.

Parts for assembling the burner during testing

The pump will fit from any car or motorcycle; its drive shaft will need to be connected to an electric motor. It is best to take the compressor from the refrigerator - they are adapted for long-term operation.

The tube is screwed into one of the holes of the crosspiece, and a plug with a hemisphere attached to it is screwed into the opposite hole so that it is in the center of the crosspiece. At the rear, an air supply tube is connected to the hemisphere through a plug.

A fuel line is attached to the upper hole of the cross, from which waste will drip onto the hemisphere. The lower hole leads into a tray to collect unburned oil. All the main components of a waste oil burner, assembled with your own hands:

• cross assembly;
• compressor;
• fuel tank;
• pump;
• power supply and control unit;

fixed on a frame welded from angle steel.

Do-it-yourself burner

The nozzle is the most important design element of a do-it-yourself burner for testing. The precision of its manufacture determines the fuel efficiency and safety of the system. The larger the nozzle hole, the more powerful the burner will be.

In addition, it is very important that the air intake channel is even and smooth - then the shape of the torch will be optimal. The best option would be to use a ready-made jet with a hole of the required diameter, for example, from a gas stove or carburetor.

But you can also drill a hole on a drilling machine. The use of a hand drill is not recommended due to the difficulty of ensuring hole alignment.

Nozzle

A hemisphere can be made from a furniture handle of a suitable diameter or from a hemispherical nut. The nozzle must be mounted flush with the surface of the hemisphere. In the most extreme case, they simply use a strip of metal bent on the rule with a jet welded to it.

The power of the resulting burner can be estimated in advance with a known error. A burner with one 0.3 mm hole can produce approximately 16 kW of thermal power.

If more power is required, then it is better not to increase the diameter of the hole, but to make several of them, at a distance of at least 8 mm from each other.

Practice has shown that from an opening larger than 0.3 mm, the air flow becomes turbulent, captures waste vapors worse, and the thermal efficiency of the device decreases.

The history of the appearance of waste engine oil burners

Exhaust burners became widespread in our country in the second half of the 20th century. The population was looking for an inexpensive way to heat their premises.

The use of mining, which cost practically nothing, was very profitable compared to the purchase of coal, firewood and even peat, not to mention heating with gas or electricity. More or less economical and safe devices came out of the hands of home craftsmen.

The principle of their operation was reminiscent of the well-known kerosene gas, which ran on kerosene. The kerosene was evaporated, and its vapors were burned in a separate pyrolysis chamber.

The main problem with such devices was strong soot and a strong unpleasant odor due to incomplete combustion of fuel. To avoid this, the fuel was first decomposed into fractions at high temperatures, and then these fractions were burned separately.

In 1969, English inventor Robert Babbington received a patent for his stove, originally intending it to run on diesel fuel.

After the patent expired, the design became available for repetition by both industrial enterprises and home craftsmen.

A homemade waste oil burner of the Babbington design is much more economical and safer than other burner designs.

Advantages and disadvantages of a liquid fuel burner

The Babbington design burner has a number of advantages:

• Simplicity of design, no moving parts.
• Availability for making at home.
• Availability of well-calculated and accurate drawings on the Internet.
• Exceptional cheapness of fuel. Enterprises that own a large fleet of automobile and tractor equipment will be able to significantly save on heating and at the same time on the disposal of used oil.
• High energy efficiency. Other burners during processing consume significantly more fuel per kilowatt of thermal energy.
• Small dimensions allow the burner to be built into existing heating systems without significant modifications.
• High degree of fire safety.

In addition to these advantages, the burner also has a number of disadvantages.

• Sensitivity of the fuel path to contamination. The work will definitely have to be filtered.
• Requires power to operate the fuel pump and air compressor.
• Unpleasant odor during work. It is better not to use the burner in premises where people or farm animals are permanently occupied, or it will be necessary to ensure reliable removal of combustion products.

Burner being used at home

Overall, the advantages far outweigh the disadvantages, and the Babbington burner is becoming increasingly popular.

, please select a piece of text and press Ctrl+Enter.

Burner using a blowtorch: video instructions for making it yourself

Furnaces and boilers running on waste oil have long taken their rightful place among heating appliances. Exhaust is a cheap and sometimes free type of fuel; it is often used for this purpose in car repair shops and garages. Many craftsmen, when choosing a design, ask the question: is it possible to convert a gasoline blowtorch into a burner for mining?