Do-it-yourself electric plane: drawings for a homemade electric plane, from a grinder

Drawings and diagrams

Before assembling the benchtop jointer, it is necessary to develop drawings. In the process of creating them, you should take into account the elements that will be part of the diagram. Standard jointers without additional features include:

bed;
shaft equipped with blades;
rotating roller;
engine;
three tabletops;
emphasis

In the process of developing drawings, the master must indicate the main distances between the key elements of the stationary structure. To do this, you will need to take into account the location of the motor, roller and shaft with blades. The circuit will allow you to determine how much the number of output rotor rotations will decrease if there is an increase in power, and vice versa.

Homemade surface planer from an electric planer

A wood jointing machine is made with your own hands from an electric planer; it is the main component of the tool. They plan the lumber directly with it. There is no need to worry about the performance of a hand-made mechanism - as practice shows, the quality of products does not decrease much when using such a machine, in comparison with purchased equipment.

First, you need to decide on the size of the parts that you plan to create on the future tool. In accordance with the selected dimensions, the dimensions of the machine itself are already selected. The width and height of the equipment body, the length of the pin, and the length of the thicknesser guides are determined.

What you will need to make a homemade surface planer with your own hands:

Unoccupied manual electric planer.
DIY drawings of a surface planer from an electric planer.
Plywood and bars for assembling equipment casings, as material for assembling the casing.
A small amount of free time.

Studs and guides

Then you need to correctly determine the location of the pin with which the surface planer will rise and fall. The efficiency of the future machine in working on parts directly depends on how well it is located.

For example, you can place it in the very middle of the body of the instrument, which is done quite often by inexperienced craftsmen. But this is far from the best option, since it does not provide ease of use, and also does not provide reliable and easy fixation. Ideally, in order to avoid any particular difficulties when working with the tool, you need to place the pin between the front and rear handle of the tool.

To provide the pin with the necessary mobility, a rolling bearing is installed on the top cover of the surface planer, converted from a planer. A nut is installed on the middle plate - with its help, the height of the thicknesser becomes easily adjustable, with a small step and increased accuracy.

Machine guides contribute to efficiency and precision when machining workpieces. They are made from the most ordinary wooden blocks, which do not require too much money. They should be slightly longer in length than the part for which they are intended, that is, they should not be made directly along the length of the workpieces, but leave a small margin.

Among other things, the lower plane of the marking machine must be arranged so that during operation it can be parallel to its knives. This way it will be possible to achieve maximum accuracy when processing a particular part.

additional information

All the tools listed above are standardized products. Therefore, in order for them to perform their job correctly and accurately, they must be manufactured in accordance with the requirements of GOST 15987-91. Below are extracts from GOST that define the basic requirements.

DIY planer drawings

Materials

List of required materials from which you should make a hand plane with your own hands:

ash;
beech;
maple;
hornbeam;
white acacia;
birch (allowed).

The wood must be well dried, without knots, cracks or rot. To glue parts, you must use waterproof glue.

Requirements for the metal used

Knives are made from the following types of double-layer steel:

the main layer is made from grade 30, GOST 1050 (U8, U8A, U9 are allowed, GOST 1435);
cladding layer - from grades 9ХФ, 9Х5ВФ, Х6ВФ, 9ХС, GOST 5950.

It is allowed to use metal of other grades, but no worse than those given in the standard. Knives must be perfectly sharpened and have an appropriate sharpening angle.

Advice: in order for the processed surface to be of decent quality as a result of the work of the tool, it is advisable to have a device in the workshop for sharpening a plane with your own hands.

How to work on a homemade machine

Thicknesser based on an electric planer

Working with a self-made surface planer is extremely simple. The machine pin is set at the required distance from the edge of the part, the required size is set, and the block is fixed. After this, the machine tilts slightly away from itself, as a result of which the cutting part of the pin is exposed. Then all that remains is to pull the tool towards you.

If properly executed, such a home-made machine will be almost in no way inferior in functionality to the simplest factory models of this type of electrical equipment for a home workshop.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=uE6ENWTKt0I

How to make a vacuum cleaner bag with your own hands?

Many vacuum cleaner owners sooner or later think about sewing a dust collection bag themselves. After the dust collector from a vacuum cleaner becomes unusable, it is not always possible to find a suitable option in the store. But it is quite possible to sew a dust bag with your own hands. We’ll tell you exactly how right now.

Construction drawings

Drawings of the frame to which all the parts of the structure being created will be attached are given below.

The part being processed will rest on the surface of the plate, secured with 10 bolts to a frame welded from steel angles. There is a groove cut in it for a drum with knives. To guide the workpieces and prevent their lateral movement, a square is also attached to the base plate with M8 screws.

The shaft with knives (working drum) will be attached under the table top with M6 screws. To do this, bearings will be placed at its ends, which will be fixed to the plate with special fasteners. The movement from the electric motor to the working drum will be carried out due to a belt drive.

The motor is installed inside the frame on a shelf made of two steel strips, with holes drilled in them of the appropriate diameter for the frame mounting bolts.

It should be taken into account that the slots for the engine mounts (mounting grooves) need to be made several centimeters wide (2-3) in order to be able to tension the transmission belt.

The casing, fixed with M6 screws with spring washers to the corner, covers the belt drive. The power button is installed in a convenient place on the body of the electric plane.

When working with an angle grinder and drilling, you must wear glasses - they will protect your eyes from metal shavings. In general, when working with any tool, you should follow safety rules and use personal protective equipment.

Do-it-yourself thickness planer made from an electric planer

It is precisely this approach to solving most tasks for a surface planer that arise in a home workshop that we find most interesting.

First of all, this interest is based on minimal modifications to an existing tool to perform the work of expensive equipment with almost the same result.

By installing an electric planer on a platform with variable height, we get almost the same thickness planer. True, it is not the position of the work table that is regulated, but the position of the working tool in relation to the workpiece being processed, but this does not change the essence of the process. The role of the table here is played by a flat, powerful board with width limiters on the sides. They also serve as the mounting location for the main unit. But first, let's talk about him.

On the planer, we will replace the rear support plate with a homemade one made from OSB or plywood, with a thickness that ensures the same level as the front plate, which regulates the required gap (1 - 3 mm) for removing chips. Its width should correspond to the width of our improvised desktop.

On the sides of this plate, slats are screwed to attach the legs, the height of which is dictated solely by common sense. It is obvious that, based on the standard width of the plane knives of 82 mm, the thickness of the workpieces being processed should not be more than 100 mm, so the distance between the axes of the leg fastenings can be taken as 110 - 120 mm. Accordingly, their total length will range from 140 to 160 mm with a width of 35 mm and a thickness of at least 10 mm. The legs are fastened strictly at the same distance from the edge of the bar.

Installation of the assembled movable upper unit with an electric planer on the desktop is carried out locally, so that the fastening is strictly at the same level. This is done to ensure that its movement is parallel with respect to the base surface, which will ensure accurate processing of the workpiece.

The easiest way to set the height during work is by selecting slats of appropriate thickness, screwed onto the work table width limiters, or using other stands.

And the clamping of the working tool is ensured with spring ties or a harness, but for small workpieces this is not required at all. Also, in a given position, this parallel platform can be fixed with self-tapping screws.

Video of using a surface planer assembled by yourself:

Chip removal for a vacuum cleaner for an electric planer made from PET bottles

Good day to all self-builders! After the article on eliminating cracks when laying floorboards, it’s time to level the surface along the boards in order to evenly lay the chipboard on which the linoleum will be laid.

Advice on laying floorboards, 2 methods.

I decided to check the surface according to the two-meter rule, and discovered that it would take a long time to work with an electric planer, then I installed a laser level and discovered that the floor beams had sagged, during construction there were pallets with foam blocks for the second floor on them, and then the entire forest for the construction of the roof.

The floors sank differently everywhere, 5 mm in some places, 15 mm in others, in one place about 20 mm in general. Having also thought ahead, I realized that they could still sag, because... Material for partitions and the rest of the decoration of the room will be imported, and after construction and finishing work, furniture will also be delivered, all of this has weight and is not small, the floors will still sag.

Taking out a long-bought electric planer from my arsenal, I began to plan the boards, hoping that I could make do with a standard dust bag, but that was not the case.

Firstly, the bag became clogged very quickly; it took time to clean it, shaking out the shavings.

Secondly, the dust was so thick in the room that you could hang an axe.

In order not to breathe fire, and not have to use a respirator, it’s a little hard to breathe in it, I decided to connect my vacuum cleaner with a large tank, but again a problem arose. Large tank for Makita 440 vacuum cleaner, NOT CYCLONE.

A metal rod is inserted into them, which supports the bag in a straightened state so that the shavings fill the entire volume of the bag, but then I didn’t do this, maybe this bag will be needed later. I decided to make an adapter from the chip removal of an electric planer to a vacuum cleaner hose.

The first thought was to make it again from a sewer pipe, but I didn’t want to breathe in melted plastic again. Before this, I worked with heat-shrinkable tubes and remembered how my homemade colleagues made heat-shrink from PET bottles. I am publishing two options, simple and improved.

Option 1.

I immediately bought five bottles of a suitable size, the volume was 0.33 or 0.5 liters (I didn’t know which ones would be better suited for this idea), but the closer the diameter of the bottles is to the size of the chip discharger and hose, the less you will have to work with heat treatment of the plastic.

I put the hose on the chip disposal and measured how long a PET tube would be needed, the length was 10 cm. The main thing is not to forget to rinse them of their contents, the first bottles were from juice, and the subsequent bottles were from mineral water, I didn’t wash them, but what’s the point? rinse with water essentially from water?

I cut the bottle along the widened part near the lid and, measuring 10 cm from the same place, cut it off with a stationery knife.

I also cut 0.5-liter PET bottles into 10 cm pieces, but they were hard to fit, but I still achieved my goal. At the end, after all the work, I trimmed the uneven edges.

After shrinking each layer, we got one part, an adapter from the chip removal system to the vacuum cleaner hose. RET settled and took the form of both a chip discharger and a hose.

BUT.

I described above what mistake I made with cutting the first layer. If you do the same, it’s better not to cut it, I think. After this problem I decided to refine this idea.

Option 2. (modified)

I bought 5 identical bottles of juice because... they performed better when heat-shrinking.

But in order not to repeat the mistake, I decided to make a stiffening rib on the final adapter. But how to make this edge on such a structure?

Everything ingenious is simple.

I took a piece of wire left over from the electrical wiring.

As in the first case, I started heating it at a temperature of 300°C in order to quickly make the adapter. After the first shrinkage of PET, it is better not to remove the wire; it should remain until the last. Layer by layer I received a new part.

The wire came off easily, just pry it off with an awl.

Source

Additional Assembly Tips

The metal for the stove is cut with a grinder or jigsaw. To cut a groove, it is convenient to use an electric jigsaw, having previously drilled a hole for its file in the slab, or an electric drill with an appropriate attachment. The edges of the slot are processed with a file so as not to get injured by them later.

You can secure the metal base plate with flat head screws (so that they do not interfere with work) or by welding it. The first option is preferable because, if necessary, the electric plane is easy to disassemble.

Before installing the drum, it is recommended to check the sharpness of its knives. If it is bad, then it is better to sharpen the blades immediately, using, for example, a regular whetstone. It is necessary to constantly ensure that the cutting attachments are well secured without distortion.

The basis for making your own knives are steel plates or hacksaw blades for metal, sharpened at an angle of 30 degrees.

The sequence of making an electric plane from a grinder with the working drum placed in a vertical position is demonstrated in the videos below. It also shows possible errors when assembling a homemade product.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=SY6xchF8VzU

Another option for creating a homemade electric planer from an old, non-working model is shown step by step in the video below.

Using the made power tool, you can process boards, beams and other workpieces. An electric planer assembled with your own hands must be used in compliance with safety requirements. The parts must be fed correctly to avoid getting your fingers caught in the drum.

There are many options for homemade electric planes. They have varying degrees of complexity, as well as different functionality. In this regard, the limitations are mainly related to the technical thinking of the inventors and the parts and materials available “at hand”. If necessary, the manufactured equipment can also be equipped with automation equipment.

DIY thicknesser machine

The need to make a thicknessing machine with your own hands often arises in a situation where the use of conventional planing is clearly not enough to obtain a smooth surface for the future floor or parquet. It will not be possible to use an electric planer; the quality of the surface after an electric planer will probably be quite high, but it will obviously not be possible to get rid of the stripes that appear on the surface of the wood with each pass.

There is only one way out - try to make a thickness planer using an electric planer according to the drawings with your own hands. Thanks to the powerful bed and guide rails, the surface of the wood after processing the board with a thicknesser will be relatively uniform and flat.

Thicknesser from an electric planer

To build a full-fledged thickness planer, you first need to make a frame or table on which the tool will be mounted. The electric planer is equipped with a powerful commutator motor, which can easily cause injury, so the fastening of the homemade surface planer to the table must be strong and reliable.

The second step is to select a plan for the layout of the surface planer. The simplest version of the device is shown in the drawing and photo.

In fact, it is necessary to make a movable platform on which the electric planer itself will be mounted. The lifting height of the tool sole on the surface being processed is adjusted using four screw-nut pairs installed on the sides of the device.

The main difficulty in operating an electric planer is correctly adjusting the lifting height of the cutting edge. In normal mode, the extension of the knife above the plane of the sole is adjusted by a screw spring-loaded handle. The amount of overhang is usually checked visually or by hand, whereas when working in the thicknesser mode, you will have to be guided only by the readings of the scale on the handle.

The only disadvantages of a planer of this type will be the small width of the surface being processed, 90-100 mm, and the actual loss of the electric planer as a hand tool. It is clearly inconvenient to disassemble and reassemble a thickness planer every time you need to remove a couple of millimeters from a nailed board.

Homemade woodworking thickness planer

Often, when carrying out carpentry work, there is a need to use a thicknesser to run a board or a board glued together from slats with a width of more than 100 mm. Planks and panels made of wood 100-140 mm can still be somewhat leveled with an ordinary hand-held electric planer, provided that the material is securely fixed on the workbench. True, it is necessary to plan diagonally in several passes, followed by processing with a manual grinder.

Cross planing of wide boards can still be used for one or two boards, but if we are talking about two dozen boards or boards, then you obviously can’t do without a homemade thickness planer.

The simplest version of a surface planer is shown in the diagram.

The basis of the design is a massive steel frame welded from angle steel. An asynchronous motor with a power of 1.5-1.8 kW and a speed of at least 1200 rpm is installed in the lower part of the frame of the thicknessing machine. The motor must be mounted on a spring-loaded cushion to ensure tension on the machine drive belt and reduce vibration on the thicknessing knives.

The second most important element is a cylindrical block with slots for knives and bearing supports. You will have to buy this thicknesser part ready-made; making it yourself is almost impossible

The drum with bearings is installed directly on the machine bed after mounting the work table.

At the last stage, two pulleys are selected for the belt drive; the ratio of the diameters of the pulley groove should be in the range of 2.5-2.8. A pulley of larger diameter is mounted on the motor shaft, and a smaller one is mounted on the drum shaft. The rotation speed under load should not exceed 4 thousand rpm.

What is the difference between bags, and which is the best option to choose when making it yourself?

Before you start making a bag, you need to find out what they are and what they are made of. The second important issue is to accurately determine which original dust collector is installed in the vacuum cleaner. Bags are disposable and reusable, and the main difference is the material used.

Disposable dust bags

For a vacuum cleaner, the best option is a disposable bag. The product resembles an ordinary bag, which, after filling with garbage, is thrown away. The entrance of the bag is framed by a cardboard frame. To avoid air leaks, a rubber seal is installed.

The bags differ in the material they are made of. There are bags with a microfilter that protect the motor from dust contamination. The advantage of disposable dust collectors is their hygienic use. A person does not breathe dust, since there is no need to shake. The downside is the constant purchase of packages for every cleaning.

The most common are filter paper bags. The material perfectly allows air to pass through and traps dust. The walls are made of several layers of paper, which gives the bag strength.

Less common are bags made of synthetic fabric. The dust collector filters the air well. The strength of the walls is provided by four layers of material. Due to its elasticity, a synthetic bag can hold more debris.

Disposable dust bags are produced for a specific brand of household appliance. It is prohibited to use bags that do not correspond to the recommended vacuum cleaner model.

Reusable dust bags

The reusable bag is made of durable fabric that is highly breathable. The advantage of the dust collector is its long service life. After filling the bag with garbage, shake it out and place it in the vacuum cleaner for reuse.

The disadvantage is the lack of hygiene. A person has to breathe dust when shaking out garbage. The fabric structure has larger pores compared to the material of disposable bags. Dust penetrates inside the engine, clogs the fine filters, and is blown back into the room. A large number of harmful microorganisms and mites accumulate on the fabric. However, when considering making a bag yourself, paper immediately disappears. The dust collector is sewn from fabric.

Features of homemade dust collectors

Poorly made homemade bags do more harm to the vacuum cleaner than good. Each manufacturer produces a dust collector designed for the parameters of a specific model. A special form is developed and the material is selected. A homemade product may turn out to be too dense. The motor will work under load, start to heat up and the suction power will decrease.

A material that is too porous will allow a lot of dust into the room and into the engine compartment. Additionally, the strength of the fabric is taken into account. A powerful vacuum cleaner will tear apart a weak bag and then you will no longer be able to do without completely disassembling the engine.

If you decide to make a bag yourself, try to choose the most suitable fabric for the structure. The pattern is made as close as possible to the original product.

main idea

Yes, such a homemade jointing machine, unlike serious industrial designs, has a number of disadvantages, namely:

Cannot boast of high processing accuracy;
The width of the workpiece is very small - only 110 mm;
Lightweight is a disadvantage, since a heavy massive base always gives the device stability and, as a result, ease of use, which ultimately improves the quality of the result.
Low power, limited by the power of a household electric planer;
The body material is wood, that is, not durable;

However, it also has undeniable advantages that make it very useful for achieving certain goals and performing a number of tasks, since it has the following advantages:

Low cost - serious jointing machines cost tens and hundreds of thousands of rubles, and the cost of this homemade jointing machine consists of the cost of the plane and materials;
Compact and portable - it can easily be stored anywhere in the workshop and can be deployed for work in a matter of minutes.
The simplicity of the design affects its reliability and maintainability.
The ability to make the necessary dimensions of the machine “to suit you”, for example, you can increase the length of the work table or change the height.

Manufacturing process

So, after all the tools and materials are prepared, you can begin making your own dust bag. Anyone can do this, especially since the process is simple and not labor-intensive.

Be sure to examine in detail the bag from your vacuum cleaner, which has already become unusable. This will help you make the right calculations and easily create a copy of the bag that is ideal for your brand and model of vacuum cleaner.

We take the material, about one and a half meters, and fold it in half. The amount of material needed depends on the size of the dust collector you ultimately need. It is better to make an accessory for a vacuum cleaner from a double layer so that it comes out as tightly as possible and retains even small dust particles as much as possible.

The edges of the folded fabric need to be secured, leaving only one “entrance”. You can secure it with a stapler or stitch it with strong thread. The result is a blank bag. Turn this piece inside out so that the seams are inside the bag.

Next, take thick cardboard, a marker or pencil, and draw a circle of the required diameter. It should exactly match the diameter of the inlet of your vacuum cleaner. It will be necessary to make two such blanks from cardboard.

To make the cardboard blank as similar as possible, you can remove the plastic piece from the old bag and use it as a template.

We treat the edges of each cardboard piece with a large amount of glue, only on one side. Glue one piece inside the bag, and the second on the outside. In this case, it is important that the second part is glued exactly to the first. The first cardboard piece must be threaded through the so-called neck of the bag. As you remember, we left one edge of the workpiece open. We pass the neck through the cardboard blank so that the adhesive part is on top.

And when you apply the second part of the cardboard template, the neck ends up between two pieces of cardboard. Use reliable glue for fixation so that the cardboard parts stick together well and so that the neck of the bag is tightly fixed. Thus, you will get a disposable dust collector that will do its job perfectly.

If you want to sew a reusable bag, you can easily make it by following the above instructions. For a reusable bag, a material called spunbond is also quite suitable. To make the bag as strong, reliable and durable as possible, we recommend using not two, but three layers of material.

For reliability, it is best to sew the bag on a sewing machine using strong threads.

As for the parts, you should use plastic instead of cardboard, then the accessory will last longer and can be easily washed. By the way, it is quite possible to attach plastic parts that were left over from the old accessory of your vacuum cleaner to the new bag. In order for the bag to be reusable, you need to sew a zipper or Velcro on one side of it, so that later it can be easily freed from debris and dust.

Additional Assembly Tips

The basis for making your own knives are steel plates or hacksaw blades for metal, sharpened at an angle of 30 degrees.

Hacksaw blade

Another option for creating a homemade electric planer from an old, non-working model is shown step by step in the video below.

How to extend the life of an electric planer

An electric plane is one of the main tools for woodworking. Properly configured, it is an indispensable assistant in the hands of a carpenter. If, over time, the tool settings have gone wrong, or you don’t know how to prepare the electric planer for work, then it is advisable to get specialized advice, which we are ready to offer in this material. Otherwise, all the work when working with an unregulated plane will go down the drain, and there will be little pleasure from such miserable work.

Like any tool, the plane must be properly adjusted before work. And an electric plane imposes even more stringent adjustment requirements than hand tools. Therefore, the following steps should be carried out before each work with such equipment.

The only warning before inspecting the tool is to follow the safety tips. So the cutting parts of the plane must be treated very carefully. After all, due to the fact that the cutters of this tool are extremely sharp, you can cut yourself on them even when the equipment is turned off, not to mention when the equipment is running. Otherwise, such equipment should be treated like any other power tool.

Required materials and tools

Let's consider the manufacture of the simplest design, designed for a planing depth of up to 1.2 mm and a width of processed wooden workpieces of up to 120 mm. To assemble such an electric plane with your own hands, you will need the following materials and parts:

bearings;
steel strips;
pressure plates;
M6 and M8 screws with nuts;
spring washers;
metal corners (20x20x3 mm);
staples;
sheet of plywood (10 mm) or metal (3-5 mm thick);
belt drive pulleys installed on the shaft of the electric motor and drum;
a drum (with one or two knives) from an old planer or electric planer, on which you can change cutting attachments;
a working electric motor from a grinder, an old electric plane or a planer;
belt;
button (switch) to turn the electric planer on and off;
wires and cord with plug;
residual current device (RCD);
capacitors (if the electric motor used is three-phase).

Installing a separate RCD for an electric plane in the panel (even directly on the machine) will increase electrical safety when working with equipment. Protection is selected according to the power of the working engine. The cord and wires must be of a suitable cross-section, taking into account the power of the installed electric motor.

Phase shifting capacitors must be connected in parallel. In this case, the required total capacity is determined by the power of the installed electric motor: approximately 100 μF per 1 kW. Capacitors must be designed for mains voltage.

To implement the project you will need the following tools:

several wrenches designed to tighten the nuts on the bolts;
roulette;
building level;
marker or pencil;
welding machine with electrodes;
an electric drill with drills and a circle of small diameter intended for cutting;
a jigsaw with files for it for wood and metal or hand saws for a similar purpose;
angle grinder complete with wheels for cutting metal.

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Types of planes

A plane is a hand-held tool for working wood, allowing you to bring the surface of a product with your own hands to the required quality and size. Having the entire set of types of this tool, you can not only process the surface, but also make various carpentry crafts.

The planer has a whole arsenal of types:

Flat planing:

sherhebel;
jointer;
semi-jointer;
mole cricket;
sander;
tzinubel;
end;
single;
double.

Figure planing:

zenzubel;
federgubel;
folding belt;
stabgobel or stabgaltel;
tongue and groove;
mold;
primer;
humpback

Having a full set of hand tools, if desired, you can make works of wood of any complexity. At the same time, an important factor for successful work is sharpening planer knives with your own hands, which is an expensive production service.

Among the figured planes, the zenzubel stands out with its useful features. It is used for making grooves, quarters, stripping and bringing tenons and cuts to the desired size. The manufacture of this type of instrument will be discussed.

The article outlines an algorithm for how to make a plane with your own hands.

A budget option for a homemade surface planer

This is the simplest method of using an electric planer as a surface planer. Of course, it would hardly occur to anyone to call this design a thickness planer, but in terms of the function it performs, this is exactly what it is.

We deliberately selected an option for wide blanks. Indeed, in this form it performs work that most industrial thicknessing machines cannot do precisely because of the width of the material being processed, and in our case it is limited only by the length of your hands.

Of course, we cannot recommend such a barbaric attachment of an electric plane - a rather expensive tool - to a moving platform. Much more interesting is the option of securing it, described in the previous section of the article, but using a wider platform and moving the slats along the width, and not along the axis of the tool

In this case, the danger of damaging anything important inside the plane body is reduced to zero.

In the example given, a glued assembly of wooden slats of various sizes and even types of wood is processed.

Height adjustment is made by installing calibrated bars on the sides of the work table, two sets of which will allow you to process an unlimited number of workpieces on both sides to a given thickness.

Elements of a homemade tool

The structure of an electric planer
Electric planers were invented in the middle of the last century and almost immediately gained popularity among builders.

They very quickly removed hand tools from the market due to high productivity.

Despite the absence of painstaking point processing, the plane allows you to perform the assigned tasks efficiently.

All modern models are quite different in appearance, but have common elements in the internal design. You can use an electric planer using one of two main methods:

Use as a portable hand tool;
In a stationary state, upside down (using reliable fixation on a workbench or table).

An electric planer that you can make yourself will have the same design elements as the factory models. Among them are:

An electric motor that powers the tool;
Protective cover (helps to save the operator’s hands from the sharp blades of the device);
Start button;
Knives mounted on a drum;
Transmission mechanism (it helps transfer the rotational impulse from the shaft to the blades).

As a sole for an electric planer, it is allowed to use a flat slab (plywood, metal, boards), as well as a special workbench. The use of the second option is more preferable, since it does not require making legs for the machine. When using a stove, you will have to make a frame of sufficient height with your own hands. It must be suitable for the height of the planer operator so that it is comfortable to plane the wood.

Planer device

During the evolution of the plane, quite a lot of its varieties have appeared, which can not only process the planes of wood, but also be used for figured cutting. To enjoy manual labor, you need to be able to choose the right plane, and then you will get real works of art from an ordinary piece of wood.

Modern planes can be divided into wooden and metal models. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages, but in terms of design, the instruments are similar, like twin brothers.

A standard plane consists of the following parts:

sole, also known as body;
cutter;
wedge;
slot for chip exit;
cutter clamp;
cutting depth regulator;
horn - front handle;
emphasis - rear handle.

The key element of the design is the cutter - this is a cutting tool made in the form of a pointed plate.

The blade is positioned at a given angle to the surface being processed. Thanks to the regulator, the knife extends to a certain distance, which allows you to finely adjust the depth of cut and the thickness of chip removal. In factory models, the blade sharpening angle is standard, but professional carpenters change it depending on the type of wood being processed.

The handles also play a certain role. The front one, called the horn, performs a guiding function and usually has a curved shape that provides a better grip on the hand. The rear one is a stop, thanks to which the force necessary for work is created.

With the sole, which can be wooden or metal, everything is not so simple. The main criterion for this structural element is a perfectly flat surface.

If this requirement is not met, it will be difficult to use a hand plane, and you can simply forget about planing accuracy. Taking these nuances into account, a metal sole looks preferable: it is made according to a template, so a priori it has the correct geometry. However, mistakes made by the manufacturer during casting reduce these advantages to zero. Moreover, the metal is susceptible to corrosive changes.

A wooden sole is lighter, and if deformed, you can straighten it yourself, breathing a second life into the plane. However, wood is not a durable material; it is subject to mechanical wear and loses its original properties when exposed to moisture or high temperatures for a long time.

Despite the standard design, there are more than 10 types of planes, and each tool performs a specific function when processing parts. Let's take a closer look at these products.

Machine parts

A homemade jointer is represented by a combination of various units that are connected together. The manufacture of the jointer must be carried out taking into account the information below:

Base. It is represented by the lower part, on which various nodes are based.
Side wall. It acts as a load-bearing element to which various components are attached for mounting.
The table is rear or fixed. This element is attached to the side wall and forms the plane of movement of the workpiece.
Front table. Often this element can change its height. A special mechanism is created for this.
Side support. It is mounted on the back table; its main purpose is to direct the movement of the workpiece.
Spacer corners. They are used to strengthen the structure and increase its stability.
Electric planer. An electric planer is used as a basis in the manufacture of the structure.

This mechanism is characterized by a fairly simple design. To connect individual units, various fasteners are used.

Manufacturing algorithm

To assemble the device with your own hands, adhere to the established plan. The sequence of actions looks like this:

To create a support, a rectangle is cut out of metal. Markings are made on it for the drum and mounting holes;
Steel corners are screwed in on all sides of the slab with bolts and then welded;
From the remaining corners, cut out 4 legs for the plane;
The resulting racks are welded to the corners of the slab;
A rack for the motor is assembled from steel strips. It is attached through holes in the support;
The seams are being cleaned;
The plate is removed;
The upper parts of the corners are welded so that there is no space between them;
The resulting seams are cleaned with a grinder or file;
The stove is put in place;
Under the slot, a drum and bearings are placed on clamps or brackets;
The engine is secured in the desired position (the shaft must protrude);
Pulleys are installed on the shaft and drum;
A belt drive is installed;
The engine is installed in such a way that the belt tension is sufficient;
A plywood or tin casing is created. It is attached with screws to the corners so as to cover the belt and motor;
The case is covered with plywood at the location where the start button is installed, then the button itself is installed;
A capacitor is installed if necessary;
Assembling an electrical circuit with your own hands (power cable, button, machine, capacitors);
The first test run of the device takes place.

After starting work, the master pays attention to the direction of rotation of the drum. It should be carried out in the same direction from which the wooden blanks for planing are fed

Necessary materials

As an example, we take a simple plane that allows you to set the depth to 1.2 mm, and use boards with a width of up to 12 cm. To create a do-it-yourself electric plane with these characteristics, use the items below:

Steel sheets (or strips);
Bearings;
Spring washers;
Pressure plates;
Screws with nuts (M6 and M8);
Staples;
Metal corners (20x20x3mm);
Plywood (1 cm thick) or sheet metal (2-3 mm);
Belt pulleys for installation on the engine and drum;
Electric motor from a plane, planer or grinder;
Belt;
Drum from an electric planer or planer with the ability to replace attachments;
Cables (wires) and plug;
Start button;
Capacitors (for three-phase motor);
Device for protective shutdown (RCD).

The presence of an RCD will help to avoid injury and breakdown of the electric planer during operation. The cross-section of the cords should be selected in accordance with the power of the engine that will be installed. Protection is selected according to motor power.

The tools that will help you create an electric planer with your own hands are:

Wrenches for tightening nuts of the appropriate size;
Level;
Roulette or measuring tape;
Pencil or marker for marking;
Welding machine with electrodes;
Electric drill;
Drill bits and cutting circle for drill;
Grinding machine with wheels for cutting metal (angular);
Electric jigsaw;
Jigsaw files (for metal and wood), or a hand saw.

Important! The capacitors must be connected in parallel. Their total power must match the corresponding indicator of the electric planer motor (about 100 uF per 1 kW).