How to make a tripod for a blowtorch. How to make a blowtorch with your own hands

What breakdowns and malfunctions are most likely?

Let’s take the “bull by the horns” and immediately name the most likely reasons for the inappropriate behavior of the blowtorch:

• it is not possible to create and maintain sufficient air pressure in the fuel container to spray fuel;
• fuel leaks anywhere, but not through the nozzle;
• the fuel from the nozzle is not sprayed, but flows out in a stream, and not evenly, like that of a well-known animal.

Most often, the listed “adventures” can be resolved with the help of basic cleaning of “sore” areas. To do this you need to have a certain set of tools.

It also happens that it is not possible to revive the instrument without replacing parts. In such a situation, most problems can be eliminated with the help of a special repair kit, which is better to purchase in advance.

Repair kit for blowtorch

Most likely, the pressure problem is caused by a faulty pump. If there is a spare one, it is simply replaced. Otherwise, you will have to work hard to repair it yourself.

If you have to constantly pump air, it means it comes out through a safety or service valve or threaded connections. It helps to clean the surfaces of these components and replace the gaskets.

If the fuel from the nozzle is not sprayed, but comes out in some other form, a normal flame will not work. The most likely cause is dirty fuel. You will have to drain the gasoline and fill it with clean gasoline, after rinsing the container. Of course, the nozzle and all fuel supply channels should be cleaned, rinsed and purged before refilling the lamp.

It happens that cleaning does not help and fuel continues to flow out in a stream. This will happen if the tool is not warmed up sufficiently. If warming up does not help, you will have to change the burner nozzle.

Sometimes gasoline flows down the flame adjustment valve rod. So the fire is not far away! We stop work, disassemble the control valve and change its seal, which is the stuffing box.

Babington waste oil burner - how to make it yourself

When using waste oils for heating a private home, an eternal problem arises - preliminary preparation of fuel, purification from impurities and water.
The Babington burner, which burns waste and other liquid fuels of any quality, will help to simplify the task. Since its design and operating principle are of considerable interest, we will consider these issues in this material.

At the same time, we’ll tell you how to make an “omnivorous” oil burner with your own hands.

Operating principle of the Babington burner

A few words about the history of the invention. The considered method of burning heavy fractions of liquid fuel appeared relatively recently - in the middle of the last century. More precisely, inventor Robert S. Babington (RS Babington) patented his diesel burner in 1969. However, the patent has long expired and now its device is available to everyone interested.

Babington’s invention is fundamentally different in operating principle from traditional oil burners, where a mixture of air and fuel is injected by a nozzle under pressure:

1. Exhaust or diesel is supplied from the tank by a low-capacity pump.
2. Fuel drips onto the working surface - spherical or inclined. The fuel flows down along it, forming a thin film.
3. In the center of this surface there is a hole of small diameter (no more than 0.3 mm), through which the compressor pumps compressed air.
4. A Babington waste oil burner operates on the following principle: a stream of compressed air exiting through a small orifice under pressure tears off part of the oil film from the surface.
5. As a result, we obtain a jet of air-fuel mixture, which, after ignition, forms a stable flame. It is sent to the firebox of a furnace or boiler, heating the walls of the chamber or the water jacket. The figure below shows the operation diagram of the burner device:

Since some of the fuel flows past the hole, it flows back into the tank

Here you can clearly see that the unburned waste oil residues flow from the hemisphere into a special container, and from there back into the main tank. From it, the fuel is supplied for combustion under low pressure, and is preheated to liquefy it. As you can see, the design does not provide any filter elements.

Preheating waste oil or diesel fuel before burning it with a Babington burner is very important and here's why:

1. The heated waste liquefies and forms a thinner film on the working surface, which is well atomized by the air flow. This promotes more efficient combustion.
2. The smaller the droplets of liquid fuel suspended in the stream, the easier it is to ignite a boiler or Babington stove in manual/automatic mode.

Reference. Finding and buying a ready-made Babington burner in a factory version is unrealistic. Well-known manufacturers of oil and diesel units, for example, KROLL or EURONORD, do not produce them. There is only one way out - order a burner from a good craftsman or make it yourself.

Pros and cons of the Babington burner

The peculiarity of this type of burner devices is that their positive and negative sides balance each other.

As you might have guessed, the main advantage is the use of heavy liquid fuels of any quality.

Even with a large number of impurities in the used oil, a homemade air-pressurized burner will function properly (unlike other furnaces made to use similar fuel).

The presence of water or automobile antifreeze in the waste stream (within reasonable limits) is not a hindrance, although minor malfunctions may occur. The fact is that the surface tension of water is higher than that of liquid hydrocarbons.

Accordingly, the waste film is more easily torn off from the working surface under the influence of air pressure in a Babington burner.

If there is a little water in the oil, then the latter practically does not enter the combustion zone, but flows down into the sump.

Advice. It is still not worth abusing the “omnivorous” nature of the burner device. It is better to pass the waste through a coarse mesh filter before use.

Another pleasant fact for the user is the large selection of types of liquid fuel used. True, when switching from one to another, you will have to reconfigure the burner according to the dosage of fuel and air. Here is a list of these types:

• waste oils and fuels and lubricants of any origin and viscosity - from cars, machine tools and other machines and mechanisms;
• diesel fuel and biodiesel;
• fresh, old and burnt vegetable oils;
• fuel oil;
• light heating oil, kerosene.

The waste oil is preheated in a tube surrounding the burner body

Now about the shortcomings, of which there are also plenty:

1. The Babington oil burner is a relatively simple device. But the system of dosed fuel supply and drainage will be more complicated. The circuit involves 2 containers, a pump and a fuel path with combustion intensity control. It is important to ensure the quality of the connections, otherwise the oil will begin to leak.
2. When using liquid fuels, especially waste fuel, the boiler room is rarely clean. You must understand that dirt and odors in the furnace room are inevitable. The disadvantage manifests itself in the process of setting up a Babington burner to work together with a homemade stove or boiler. This also includes reconfiguring equipment to switch from mining to diesel, fuel oil or vegetable fuel.
3. Occasionally, malfunctions occur during the operation of the burner due to the fact that the nozzle, or more precisely, the tiny air hole, becomes clogged. Most likely, the reason lies on the compressor side. For example, wear of the piston group leads to oil from the crankcase entering the nozzle and can cause failures.

Separately, it is worth mentioning fire safety measures. When performing work related to the installation of an oil burner device, it is recommended to keep a fire extinguisher on hand. The latter must always be located in the boiler room.

How to make a burner yourself

To understand how to make a Babington burner device, you need to study its design from the drawings. You can find quite a few of these on the Internet, but for manufacturing it is better to adopt the experience of specialists and use a proven prototype for work. Below is a drawing of a burner made and tested by one of the experienced participants in one of the specialized forums:

Now a few words about what the unit can be made from according to this drawing. The author used a regular steel tee with threads for connecting pipes with a diameter of 2 inches (DN50) as a body. Instead of a tee, a cross of the same size will do. The remaining elements are in accordance with the list:

1. Any metal part with a hemispherical end can act as a
   hemispherical nozzle or a hollow ball for a Babington burner. There are several options - starting from a brass door handle and ending with various spherical nuts.
2. The nozzle is made from a metal pipe with an external pipe thread, length – 150-200 mm.
3. Copper tube with a diameter of 10 mm for the fuel path.
4. Metal tube for organizing air supply. Diameter – at least 10 mm.
5. Threaded fittings are used to connect a copper tube to the body.

You will also need a small pump to pump used oil. Units from a VAZ car or motorcycle cope well with this task; you just need to ensure their rotation from an electric motor. Any low-power compressor is suitable, including one from a refrigerator, since the pressure in the air path should be low (nominal - about 2 Bar, maximum - 4 Bar).

Advice. To dose or shut off the fuel line, it is necessary to install a special valve on it.

An important operation is to drill a calibrated hole of very small diameter in the improvised nozzle. But first you need to select a drill of the required size, because the power of the future homemade Babington burner will depend on the size of the hole. Calculating power will be discussed in the next section, and how to make a small hole yourself is shown in detail in the video:

Power selection

The trick is that it is quite difficult to independently make such a calculation using formulas.

There is data obtained in practice, and it says that different craftsmen make one or more holes with a diameter of 0.1 to 0.3 mm.

There is also more accurate information: if you make a burner with 1 hole measuring 0.25 mm, you will be able to achieve a boiler power of up to 15 kW (depending on the type of fuel).

Advice. Do not drill a hole that is too large (more than 0.3 mm), this will lead to poor atomization and combustion of the waste. In addition, the device will be more difficult to ignite, and the consumption of liquid fuel will increase unjustifiably.

Based on these data, you can select the thermal power of the unit by the number of holes. To reach 30-35 kW, you will have to drill not one hole 0.25 mm, but two.

Moreover, the distance between them must be maintained at least 8 mm so that the torches of the air-fuel mixture do not extinguish each other. According to experience, when operating a Babington burner, exhaust through one hole is 0.

25 mm, the approximate oil consumption in maximum mode will be up to 2 liters per hour.

Manufacturing recommendations

When the hole is ready, you need to attach an air supply tube to the ball and install it inside the tee. To ensure a sealed exit of the tube from the housing, you will have to make a threaded plug.

A hole is drilled in it, where the tube is inserted. A fitting is cut into the tee from above by soldering, and a copper fuel supply line is connected to it.

To heat used oil before burning, we use the following methods:

1. An electric heating element with a thermostat is built into the tank, from where the waste material is supplied to the hemisphere.
2. The tube leading from the tank makes several turns around the heated nozzle, due to which the fuel passing through it heats up.

A nozzle is first screwed to the tee, and then a copper tube pre-bent into a spiral is put on it. And only then it connects to the fitting. By the way, 2 holes with a diameter of at least 8 mm should be made in the nozzle for the intake of secondary air. A detailed description of how to make a Babington burner yourself is given in the video below:

The lower outlet from the tee is designed to drain used oil into the settling tank. It can be placed directly under the burner, but this is not aesthetically pleasing and unsafe - the flame is too close.

It’s better to take the tank to the side and come up with a fitting with a screw plug and a tube to drain the waste.

Anyone who is strong in the field of electronics can attach an automatic ignition and safety kit with a controller to the burner.

Electrical ignition can be provided by one or two automotive spark plugs screwed into the beginning of the nozzle.

This will make it possible to stop and start the boiler automatically, shutting off and resuming the supply of waste oil and air to the burner.

The controller can receive signals from the flame sensor, water temperature in the boiler and fuel level in the tank and, based on them, turn off the pump and close the fuel line valve.

About converting a blowtorch for testing

Some home craftsmen, having studied the operating principle of the Babington burner, are trying to convert an ordinary blowtorch to burn waste oil. The goal is to reduce the cost and simplify manufacturing, because the processes in these two devices are supposedly similar. This opinion is erroneous, since a blowtorch functions differently than the homemade burner described here.

In the lamp, air is pumped into a tank of gasoline with one purpose - to push it out and deliver it to the nozzle. In this case, the fuel goes through the stage of heating and evaporation.

The nozzle supplies gasoline vapor to the combustion zone; the liquid can be observed there only at the ignition stage, when the “head” of the blowtorch has not yet warmed up.

The used oil will not be able to evaporate and the nozzle will supply it in the form of large droplets, which does not contribute to normal combustion. And the cross-section of the jet will quickly become clogged with various impurities.

The conclusion is simple: it will not be possible to convert a blowtorch to burn heavy liquid fuel.

Conclusion

At the moment, a universal burner operating on the Babington principle is the prerogative of home-made craftsmen. Although it has a lot of advantages, well-known brands are in no hurry to start producing such units. It can be assumed that the reason for this is the fire hazard of such a product and the projected price being too high due to the complex fuel-air supply system.

Gasoline and kerosene

A blowtorch running on kerosene, like a gasoline one, consists of a tank in which the fuel is compressed to several atmospheres, and a burner. During compression, the fuel is partially mixed with air.

Reservoir and pump

The reservoir has a volume of 1-2 liters. Its body has a built-in filler plug, a pump to create pressure and a tube that connects the body to the burner, providing fuel to the latter.

To use the maximum amount of fuel from the tank and reduce the number of refills, the free “receiving” end of the tube is located almost at the bottom. All parts are built into the tank in such a way as to ensure tightness.

The simplest pump design is a cylinder with a piston. At the lower end of the cylinder there is a simple check valve that prevents air from escaping from the reservoir.

The piston is a cup-shaped cuff that compresses air when moving towards the cylinder valve, and when moving in the opposite direction, it allows air to flow, filling the cylinder.

Burner device

The burner consists of a nozzle, a control valve, an ejector tube and an ignition cup. From the injector, fuel is injected under pressure into a tube in which it is mixed with air captured from its rear hole.

To ensure complete combustion of the fuel, it must first be heated. This is ensured thanks to the design of the ejector tube. Fuel under pressure, before reaching the injector nozzle, is heated in the “jacket” of the tube, inside which a flame burns.

The initial heating of the tube is carried out when preparing the lamp for operation by igniting the fuel in the bowl. The adjusting screw ensures the required flame temperature by limiting the amount of injected fuel.

Fuel requirements

Fuel for use in a blowtorch must be clean, otherwise mechanical impurities may cause clogging of the nozzle. For the same reason, it is recommended to use gasoline with a low octane number, as it contains fewer additives.

If the hole is clogged, it can be cleaned with a soft wire of suitable diameter. Steel wire should not be used so as not to damage the nozzle by changing its geometry. Very often, gasoline and kerosene blowtorches come with a special wire cleaner.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=gbZ-HmK5O9g

The difference between and on kerosene is the diameter of the nozzle hole. In addition, in older designs of kerosene blowtorches, a small coil was located inside the ejector, which allowed the fuel to be heated more intensively. This design was a consequence of the fact that the combustion temperature of kerosene is slightly lower than that of gasoline.

Start and end of work

To start working, the device must be filled with fuel in an amount of no more than 2/3 of the volume of the fuel tank, and pressure must be created using a pump.

Then you should fill the burner bowl with fuel and carefully set it on fire. As the burner warms up, slowly open the control valve and increase the pressure in the tank.

When the fuel stream ignites, the nozzle nozzle must be directed into a fireproof, refractory surface, such as a brick wall or a sheet of asbestos. This will speed up the heating of the burner.

After completing the work, the flame is extinguished by stopping the fuel supply to the nozzle. Only after the lamp has cooled can the fuel tank be opened. It is allowed to refill the lamp if its temperature does not exceed 50 ℃.

Do-it-yourself gas burner from a blowtorch - Metals, equipment, instructions

What is a gas burner?
Many people are interested in the exact answer to this question. In short, this is a homemade propane device that has a huge number of advantages over its analogues. In this article we will try to understand exactly everything related to a homemade gas burner, and also answer the question “How to make a gas burner with your own hands?” Firstly, I would like to note the main features of this design. These include:

• extremely easy to use;
• no unpleasant or harmful odors, traces of soot, etc.;
• compactness, allowing the gas burner to be used almost anywhere.

Design of a homemade gas burner

The device of a homemade gas burner includes:

• metal case;
• gearbox;
• nozzle;
• fuel supply regulator;
• head;
• a unit for securing a gas cylinder.

The metal case includes a special glass, with the help of which the mechanism eliminates the possibility of blowing out the flame. This also includes a metal or other handle that does not exceed 100 centimeters .

A wooden holder and a gas hose are installed on top of the handle. Using a reducer and a tube with a valve, the gas supply level and its length are adjusted accordingly.

The nozzle is used to ignite the fuel, in this case the latter is propane.

Type of fuel the burner runs on

As mentioned earlier, a gas burner is also called a propane burner. From this it is easy to conclude that, as a rule, propane or a mixture of propane and butane is used as fuel.

A special cylinder is filled with this fuel and attached to the burner.

Do-it-yourself gas burner production

As you can understand from the list of elements of the entire design of the device, it is extremely simple and does not have any complex parts that require a lot of time.

In order to make the unit with your own hands, it will take a little time and effort. And if you correctly study the material presented in this article, as well as approach the process with all seriousness and accuracy (since the work is carried out with flammable substances), then it will definitely be completed.

As practice and many living examples show, on average, a person who has never created homemade gas burners, 40-45 minutes after reading the instructions, could already boast of a homemade burner.

How to make a gas burner with your own hands

Here we come to the most interesting process. To make a burner. Below we will describe in detail the entire process of creating this unit, taking into account all the nuances and tips.

So, you should start with the simplest, but no less interesting. From the manufacture of the burner handle . In principle, any material can be used. By the way, it would be more reasonable to simply use a ready-made handle from some old and unnecessary soldering iron. The supply tube is made exclusively of steel.

Do not forget to pay great attention to the dimensions of all parts. For example, the diameter of the burner supply tube should not exceed one centimeter, and its thickness should range from 2 to 2.5 mm. This tube is inserted into the handle and fixed with glue or other quality material suitable for the purpose.

Frame

The burner body, oddly enough, is also made of steel. It is best to use a brass rod, the width of which should be approximately 2 centimeters. The divider can also be made from it.

Next, several holes are made in order to create oxygen circulation in the unit . After all, as anyone knows: fire cannot exist without oxygen. The total number of such holes should be four: each with a diameter of about 1 millimeter. They are made in the very core of the burner divider.

The next step is to forcefully press the divider, which was worked with a little earlier, into the body of the gas device. The inner flange must be installed with some clearance of about half a centimeter. With the help of this gap in the future, a huge flow of gas approaching the igniter will be slowed down.

Nozzle

As mentioned earlier, the nozzle is used to supply fuel, namely propane, from its cylinder to the outside. To make it, you should use a special metal rod .

Here you will need a 2mm drill to make a blind hole in the nozzle. For the jumper we will need a 4mm drill.

The holes made are caulked with a hammer, and then sharpened using everyone’s favorite sandpaper.

After this, a hose from the gearbox is mounted on the end of the tube, which must be made of special rubber and fabric material. Fastening occurs with a regular clamp using a standard screwdriver.

After the mechanism, in your opinion, is correctly secured, you need to set the optimal pressure in the cylinder and supply gas from it. The air from the hose should then be completely displaced. The length of the fire, with the correct location and operation of all parts, should be about 40-50 mm.

In general, as mentioned earlier, a homemade gas burner is a rather unique tool that will come to the aid of any owner in any unpleasant everyday situations. And the maximum ease of its manufacture can only further attract all priorities to itself.

• Nikolay Ivanovich Matveev
• Print

Do-it-yourself homemade gas burner: review, features and how to make it - SibNovStroy

A gas torch is a useful device; it can be useful for forges, soldering, and in many other cases.

This device can be bought, but a homemade gas burner works just as well, and it’s not that difficult to make.

It can be made quickly, the main thing is to follow all the rules so that the finished equipment is completely safe.

Of course, you will not be able to obtain the same power as industrial equipment, but for repairs and a number of small operations such a burner is quite suitable.

Burner device

The soldering torch design includes the following elements:

• Housing made of refractory metal.
• Unit for installing a gas cylinder.
• Gearbox.
• Fuel regulator.
• Nozzle.
• Head.

The metal body must include the main element - a special metal glass that prevents the fire from being blown out. It is also important to make a handle on the body from metal or other material that is not exposed to high temperatures.

A nozzle is used to ignite the fire, and a reducer provides regulation of the gas supply. Most often, propane is used as fuel for burners, although industrial analogues can also use butane and other gas mixtures. The fuel is in a removable cylinder.

What do you need to prepare to make the device?

To make a soldering torch with your own hands, stock up on the following materials:

• Hoses.
• Metal tube, preferably brass.
• Metal for nozzles and dividers.
• The plates are made of refractory metal; wood can be used as an alternative.
• Gearbox.
• Sealing agent.

Production technology

First of all, you need to make a nozzle and a handle. The latter is made from a brass tube. attaching a handle made of a material with low thermal conductivity to it. Typically, wood is used in DIY production. However, if you have at your disposal a handle from any tool of suitable diameter, you can use it.

The principle of operation of a blowtorch

The blowtorch can run on kerosene and gasoline.

After refueling the device, air is pumped into the tank using a pump, which creates increased pressure inside the fuel cylinder. Excessive air pressure forces fuel into the burner, where it burns and forms a flame. To ignite the burner and ensure stable operation, it must be preheated to a certain level. To carry out heating, a fuel cup is used, which is mounted under the burner. The capacity of one cup is usually enough to heat the burner to the desired temperature.

When a certain burner heating temperature is reached, the fuel supplied from the reservoir to the burner evaporates in the evaporator. Gaseous fuel enters the combustion area and forms a flame through a special nozzle. During the combustion of evaporated fuel, oxygen is sucked into the combustion area and the process is maintained.

During the process of heating the burner, air is not pumped into the tank for safety reasons, and the shut-off valve must be closed at this moment. The shut-off valve opens only after the burner and evaporator have warmed up. After opening the shut-off valve, the flame strength is adjusted. After finishing work with the device, turn it off by screwing in the shut-off valve.

Do-it-yourself gas burner from a blowtorch - Metalworker's Guide

A gas torch is a useful device; it can be useful for forges, soldering, and in many other cases.

This device can be bought, but a homemade gas burner works just as well, and it’s not that difficult to make.

It can be made quickly, the main thing is to follow all the rules so that the finished equipment is completely safe.

Of course, you will not be able to obtain the same power as industrial equipment, but for repairs and a number of small operations such a burner is quite suitable.

Handling old lamps

Old blowtorches that have not been used for a long time should first be inspected from the outside. During inspection, you need to check how easily all the valves and the tank lid open. The adjustment valve should turn easily. After this, you need to check the housing for leaks. To do this, use a pump to pump air into a lamp that is not filled with fuel. Then, using a brush, apply a thick soap solution to all threaded connections and the faucet. You need to check it closed and open.

If all connections are tight and the pump is properly creating pressure in the housing, the tap performs its functions by opening and closing the burner, the lamp can be refilled and started.

Design of a gasoline blowtorch

In the design of a gasoline blowtorch, there are two main structural parts - a tank for storing fuel reserves and a burner.

An ejector is a device in which kinetic energy is transferred from one medium moving at a higher speed to another.

The burner is called an ejector. The ejector has a design that promotes the flow of air and decaying combustion products during the combustion process. The operating principle of this device is based on creating thrust due to fuel combustion.

A supply of fuel is poured into the tank, after which it is closed with a tight lid with a seal. The lid with a seal prevents fuel leakage during storage of the device, as well as during its operation. The tank for storing a supply of gasoline is equipped with a pumping device that allows air to be pumped into the tank to create excess pressure in it. Excess pressure contributes to the transportation of gasoline from the tank to the burner during operation of the device.

A typical device contains the following structural elements:

• fuel tank;
• handle for holding the device during operation;
• hermetically sealed fuel filler neck;
• pump with valve - to create excess pressure in the tank;
• siphon tube providing fuel supply to the evaporator;
• a needle valve used to regulate the fuel supply;
• evaporator;
• nozzle;
• ejector;
• nozzle cleaning device.

The fuel filled into the device tank is a consumable item. The smokiness of the flame and the clogging of the nozzle depend on the quality of the fuel used; in addition, the degree of explosion hazard that occurs during the use of the device depends on the quality of the fuel. For normal operation of gasoline devices, it is necessary to use special gasoline or gasoline with an octane rating of at least 80. If low-quality fuel is used, the device may require repairs.

DIY gas burner from a blowtorch

A gas burner is a special device that ensures uniform combustion of gas and allows you to regulate the fuel supply.

Often, not every person can afford such a device, but a do-it-yourself gas burner, made from scrap materials, will be an economical and practical alternative to factory-made analogues.

Homemade gas burners

The main components in the manufacture of powerful gas burners are industrial valves.

They may be new, but for a homemade device it is enough to use used ones if there is no gas leak.

They are designed to work in tandem with a 50-liter propane gas cylinder, which has an angle valve and a reducer.

Burner with valve VK-74

The structure of this burner is shown in Fig. 1. The oxygen cylinder valve VK-74 is taken as the basis.

A fitting-handle turned on a lathe is installed at the outlet end, to the corrugated part of which the hose from the cylinder is connected.

A cap with a prepared hole with a thread for the nozzle is screwed onto the part of the valve with a conical thread K3/4˝, with which it was connected to the gas cylinder. You can use a ready-made blowtorch or gas stove.

The nozzle is made from a piece of 1/4˝ steel pipe 100 mm long and welded to the cap on two pieces of ∅5 mm wire.

A distance of 15 mm should be left between the cap and the nozzle to allow air to enter the combustion zone.

The position of the nozzle is adjusted by bending the wire holders to achieve a central flame position.

Sequence of actions to ignite the burner:

1. Open the cylinder valve;
2. Place a lit match near the nozzle and slowly open the burner valve;
3. Control gas ignition;
4. Adjust the flame using the burner valve

By the way! The highest flame temperature is at the end of the green-blue part of the torch.

A homemade gas burner of this design has one drawback associated with the location of the valve.

The gas flow is directed in the opposite direction to the normal position. The stuffing box seals experience constant gas pressure (incl.

when the valve is closed), therefore it is necessary to constantly monitor the tightness of the seals.

Attention ! Valve VK-74 should be used only when adjusting the flame. Stop the gas supply only at the cylinder

Burner converted from acetylene gas cutter

If you have an acetylene torch with a faulty oxygen supply valve, do not rush to throw it away.

It is also suitable for making a burner (Fig. 2).

The mixing chamber requires modifications, the contents of which must be removed to reduce weight.

The oxygen barrel and valve will need to be removed. Solder the resulting hole with hard solder. Connect the hose coming from the gas cylinder reducer to a fitting with a left-hand thread M16 × 1.5.

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Using a union nut, secure a homemade tip bent at 45° to the mixing chamber to make it more convenient to work with the burner. Screw a flange with a nozzle welded to it onto the thread of the tip.

One of the options for such a burner is to use a cap with an M22 × 1.5 thread. The design of the nozzle here is similar to the nozzle of the burner described above. The homemade gas burner is ready for use.

Gas mini burner

Mini gas burners are more suitable for working with small parts. The mini burner is based on a needle for inflating balls.

It is necessary to make a cut in it, a little further than the middle of the needle. Some needles already have a similar hole, which significantly speeds up the work process.

Next, you need to take the syringe needle and bend it about 45 degrees in the middle.

Mini gas burner design

It is best to sharpen the pointed end of a syringe needle so that it is straight. After this, it needs to be inserted into the ball needle so that one end comes out through the hole, and the other protrudes from the large needle by several mm.

The resulting mini structure should be fixed using soldering. After this, droppers must be attached to the bases of the two needles.

Clamps - dropper regulators need to be moved as close to the needles as possible.

In the resulting burner they will act as gas and air supply regulators.

All that remains is to connect a source of compressed gas to the finished device, the burner is ready for use.

This homemade gas burner can heat objects up to 1000 degrees.

You should work with it carefully, observing safety precautions.

Infrared heater

Using homemade gas burners may give you the idea of ​​creating your own infrared heater. Such heaters are designed to heat houses or garages in the face of ever-increasing gas prices.

The easiest way to retain heat is to use ordinary food foil. It must be mounted on the wall behind the battery.

Heat flows will be reflected from the aluminum surface into the room, which will not allow heat to escape through the walls.

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In a more complex version, you can use a spiral. To do this, you need to purchase an incandescent coil and an infrared port in the store.

Making such a device is quite simple: the spiral needs to be placed in a metal block, which is connected to the electrical network. An infrared port is attached to the resulting structure.

This device works based on the ability of the port to distribute thermal information received from the hot coil into the room.

For garages or other small non-residential premises, a heater made from a small tin box and graphite sand is best suited.

Top 10 best gas torches for soldering

Welcome everyone to the blog! Today I will give you my Top 10 best gas torches for soldering and welding small parts.

It is necessary to understand why people came up with gas soldering in the first place and where it is advisable to use it.

Let me give you a simple example: an electrician is installing wiring in a new house and wants to solder copper wires in the junction box for a reliable connection.

It is clear that there is no wiring yet and there is nowhere to stick the soldering iron. This is where a gas burner or gas soldering iron comes to the rescue.

Soldering and gas welding are often used in jewelry - when a high melting point and an even seam of product parts are needed.

In amateur radio practice, gas burners are not very common, but there is nothing better than such a burner when soldering radiators, housings and other parts that require intense heating. And how nice it is to heat shrink with such a burner - it’s just brilliant. Well, enough of the lyrics - let's get on with the review.

1st place – mini gas burner with soldering attachment

Designed for both heating medium-sized parts and for contact soldering due to the heating of the tip from the flame. A kind of soldering iron without wires.

The gas tank capacity is 8ml. The flame temperature when filling with butane reaches 1300 degrees Celsius, and the tip temperature – 450 degrees. The flame length is adjustable from 4 to 6 cm.

The length of the burner is 13 cm and the diameter is 1.5 cm.

The price of such a burner is 400 rubles.

Advantages: small and inexpensive, enough refill to solder several medium-sized parts, has a nozzle for contact soldering, easy to refill.

Disadvantages: no piezo ignition.

2nd place – gas micro burner

There is nothing in it except a tank with a filling valve and a nozzle with a gas supply regulator.

The ZC57100 does not have piezo ignition and it is supplied unfilled, so you will also have to buy a gas cartridge - it will be suitable for lighters.

In general, to solder two wires or heat heat shrink without a soldering iron, such a torch is enough. The burner is also about 20 cm long and weighs 43 g.

This is the cheapest burner that can be found and the price of such a micro burner is 200 rubles.

Advantages: cheapest, easy to refill.

Disadvantages: small flame, refill runs out quickly, no piezo ignition.

3rd place – mini gas soldering iron KVT XZ-1

This remarkable soldering iron from the gas powered brand features piezo ignition and comes in a case with a set of 4 soldering tips, a spool of solder, and a tip cleaning sponge.

Thus, the declared power of the soldering iron for contact soldering is 137 W - this is a lot for a soldering iron with a length of 21 cm and a weight of 120 g. Electric soldering irons have never dreamed of such weight and size characteristics.

This soldering iron is not positioned as a torch, but it can be used as a torch - the flame is pencil-type.

Making a gasoline burner with your own hands

Not everyone can purchase a new burner that runs on gas or a fuel-air mixture, which is due to the relative high cost of the device . And the purchased model does not always cope with the assigned tasks, especially if it has already been used. This may be due to the presence of hidden defects or breakdowns.

To avoid becoming a victim of such an unwise purchase, many men prefer homemade solutions, which are particularly affordable and easy to assemble. As mentioned earlier, even the most inexperienced welder can easily install such a device using improvised means, saving himself from high costs.

If a homemade gasoline burner is made taking into account the basic rules and recommendations, it should produce fire immediately after a lit match is brought to it. In this case, stable and steady combustion of the fuel-air mixture will be noticeable for another 3-7 minutes. During the combustion process, it is possible to reach temperatures up to 1000 degrees Celsius. Using such a device, you can successfully melt all kinds of solder, including hard solder, as well as metals and glass. In addition, the burner easily solves the problem of heat treatment of small-sized products.

To make a device with your own hands, it is enough to use a number of materials. Among them:

1. Frame.
2. Pen.
3. Sleeve.
4. Hook.
5. Emphasis.
6. A tube.
7. Balloon.
8. Ring.
9. Rubber bulb.
10. Filler.

By the way, it is not necessary to create such elements with your own hands - they are present in many other tools that are available in the home workshop. For example: instead of a rubber bulb, you can use a spray bottle .

Step-by-step instruction

A lathe is used to turn the body of the future device. Products from different manufacturers are used as steel. In this case, the body of such an important part is made composite so that one end remains open and the other is closed with a plug.

The latter case involves making a hole 0.1 millimeters larger than the outer diameter. This nuance will allow the body to move tightly within the tube, maintaining the necessary tightness.

1. A ring is fixed in the inner part of the body, which is made of slag wool or durable metal mesh.
2. At the next stage, the stop and bushing with a hook are manufactured, which involves the use of a durable steel sheet. Then a handle for a gasoline burner is cut out of oak or beech.
3. Then all that remains is to prepare the tube by very carefully drilling two holes so that they are parallel to each other. The finished product is processed using special sandpaper, covered with colorless varnish in three to four layers.
4. The last manufacturing step is to prepare the tube. The end of the element is passed through the middle of the body, which allows the formation of a nozzle. Using hard solder PMC-54, the end of the tube is soldered, and then a hole with a diameter of 0.2 millimeters is made along its axis.

Solder is optionally made from copper or zinc . In the first case, copper wire is used, which is fired and cut into several pieces using scissors. When choosing the second option, use a glass from a regular electric battery, which is first cleared of its contents and hardened by fire. After this, the glass is placed in a container with cold water and a weak solution of hydrochloric acid, cut into small pieces after such treatment.

Next, you need to combine pieces of zinc and copper in equal proportions, placing them in a crucible and sprinkling with borax. The fusion of metals is carried out on a burner. As a result, the block is cooled, secured in a vice and leveled using a file. The collected sawdust is collected and mixed with borax.

Other features and creation methods

It is not always possible to buy a ready-made burner that runs on a fuel-air mixture or gas, which is due to many reasons. Sometimes this is explained by the too high cost of the equipment, and sometimes by a simple lack of time to visit the store. Therefore, more and more people are becoming interested in making a burner with their own hands. By the way, homemade solutions look no worse than purchased ones. Their productivity is quite high, and there are practically no .

As mentioned above, if you bring a lighter or a lit match to a homemade burner, a fire will immediately break out from the corresponding window, which will burn for about 5-7 minutes, reaching a temperature of over 1000 degrees Celsius.

Due to these features, the device can be used for productive melting of hard solders, heat treatment of small tools, melting of all kinds of metals, solders, and sometimes even glass.

Most of the parts of a homemade burner are created using improvised materials, since they can be borrowed from other unnecessary things.

The burner device itself includes:

1. Frame.
2. Sleeve with hook.
3. Emphasis.
4. Handle.
5. Rubber ring.
6. Balloon.
7. Pear (can be taken from a spray bottle).
8. Filler.

№

If we talk about this method of making a gasoline burner, then it may be familiar even to those people who have never before asked the question of creating such a device . When completing this task, you need to take two aluminum cans, which must be empty. Cans of beer, condensed milk, Coca-Cola and other products are suitable.

• After thoroughly washing and drying the container, you can begin work. Four punctures are made in the central part of the bottom of the first jar. You can use a nail for this. Similar holes are made around the perimeter of the rim of the can. As a result, it is possible to produce a base part that will supply the flames.
• After this, you need to cut off the part that was made earlier from the rest of the container. The length of the side is three to four centimeters. If you cannot cut the product using ordinary scissors, you will have to use any other sharp object.
• The next step is to prepare a second jar, the bottom of which is simply cut off. Try to perform this step with extreme caution to prevent nicks from occurring. If there are nicks, it is enough to sand them off with sandpaper.
• In the end, all that remains is to connect the two resulting parts. By the way, at this stage, novice welders often have difficulties, because the cans have the same diameter and this significantly complicates the work. To solve the problem, it is enough to make a small cut in the side of one of the cans, wrapping the entire structure with aluminum tape to increase the tightness.

In order for the gasoline burner to be ready for use, all that remains is to fill it with gasoline and then heat the area with a lighter. It is better to thoroughly warm up the burner for 5-10 seconds, after which it will be able to maintain the optimal level without your help.

Now you see that creating such an indispensable device with your own hands is very simple.

№

Another method is used to make burners. It is significantly more complex than the previous one, but allows you to achieve higher reliability, strength and operational durability. Therefore, if you place emphasis on such features, then it is better to make the burner using the second method. True, this will require a lot of effort, patience and time.

So, to successfully manufacture the structure you should take:

1. Compressor. You can use an old car inner tube that is constantly inflated, or a basic compressor from an unused refrigerator (if you have one).
2. Receiver. Here you can use a regular plastic canister with a volume of up to 10 liters. You also need to find a dense translucent cork.
3. Fuel tank. It uses a two-liter metal barrel that will store the fuel mixture.
4. Burner. This element is created with your own hands or purchased at the appropriate store.

If all the necessary parts have been collected, all that remains is to follow the instructions and assemble the future device. If you strictly follow the basic rules and follow the step-by-step guide, the end result will exceed all your expectations and you will be pleasantly surprised by the quality of the homemade burner. The main thing is to be ready to devote several hours of time and patience to the upcoming event.

How to make a burner for mining yourself

For successful combustion of oil, you must either preheat it to the evaporation temperature - approximately 300 degrees Celsius, or finely spray and enrich the oil vapors with air. You can heat the oil to such temperatures using powerful heating elements, but this will increase energy costs. An oil aerosol can be created by applying a stream of compressed air through a layer of oil. This effect is realized in the Babington burner - a device, an analogue of which you can assemble with your own hands from available components.

Babington burner - an alternative to a blowtorch

The Babington burner was originally patented to run on diesel fuel. Later, having made minor changes to the design, the craftsmen changed the design with their own hands and adapted the burner for burning waste machine and food oils. The degree of oil contamination does not matter much, since the fuel channels of the unit are free of bottlenecks prone to blockages.

Unlike a blowtorch, where the fuel-air mixture is sprayed under pressure through nozzles, in a Babington burner oil is pumped from a reservoir using a low-power pump and flows in a thin film along an inclined or spherical surface, and the oil-air mixture is formed by blowing a thin jet of compressed air air through this film.

The spraying effect is clearly presented in the video:

The Babington burner consists of several functional blocks:
• Fuel - reservoir, pump and pipes for supplying fuel.
• Air, it consists of a compressor and an air tube.
• A hemisphere with a small diameter hole where the air stream mixes with oil.
• A nozzle that directs the flame in the desired direction.

The standard design can be modified with your own hands, increasing its efficiency.
To do this, the fuel tank is equipped with a heater that heats the oil before the burner starts operating, which makes it possible to increase its fluidity. In addition, a fuel channel made of a metal tube can be wrapped around the nozzle - this way the oil will heat up while the burner is operating. The burner nozzle is directed into the boiler, where the fuel chamber and water jacket are heated. You can also use the device to melt and heat metals.

Advantages of a DIY Babington burner:

• wide choice of fuel - used machine oils, lubricants of any viscosity, diesel fuel, fuel oil, any vegetable oils, including food waste;
• the presence of impurities in the fuel;
• simplicity of design - you can do it yourself.

Flaws:

• difficulty setting up the burner, especially often when changing the type of fuel;
• smell and dirt - the burner cannot be installed in residential premises, a boiler room is required;
• The use of the burner involves an open flame, so fire safety precautions must be observed.

There must be a powder or salt chemical fire extinguisher in the boiler room!

DIY Babington burner

You can assemble the burner yourself from simple components; for this you will need:

• A hollow ball or hemisphere with such a wall thickness that you can drill a hole with a diameter of no more than 0.3 mm. You can use any metal objects of a similar configuration, for example, a spherical brass door handle, nuts with plugs. The main condition is the possibility of reliable fastening of the air duct.

• Metal tube for supplying compressed air from a compressor, diameter - 10-15 mm.
• A compressor, for example, from a refrigerator, with an operating pressure of 2 atm, a maximum pressure of 4 atm.
• Fuel tank with a built-in heating element of 0.5-1 kW made of non-corrosion metal.
• Fuel sump and pipe to drain excess oil back into the tank.
• Copper tube, diameter - 10 mm, wall thickness - 1-1.5 mm for the fuel channel.
• Oil pump from a car or motorcycle with an electric motor to drive the pump. It is advisable to equip the pump with a filter with a large mesh at the inlet.
• The nozzle is a 200-400 mm long nozzle with an external thread of 2 inches.
• Crosspiece for two-inch metal pipe with internal threads.
• A 1" threaded drain and a 2/1" adapter to drain excess fuel into the sump.
• Adapters and fittings for connecting the fuel line, air duct and nozzle.

Preparing burner components for assembly

1. The main and most important task is to make a hole of a given diameter in the spherical nozzle. The power of the burner depends on its size. For example, a boiler with a thermal power of 10-15 kW requires a burning torch obtained by operating a burner with one hole with a diameter of 0.2-0.25 mm. To obtain more power, there is no need to expand the hole - this will lead to larger droplets. It is better to make 2-4 holes with a diameter of 0.1-0.3 mm with a distance between them of 8-10 mm, otherwise the torches will be mutually extinguished. Fuel consumption can be calculated as follows: through one hole of 0.25 mm, 2 liters of waste are sprayed per hour.

Video about how you can make small diameter holes in a metal hemisphere:

1. The tank is made of corrosion-resistant metal. A heating element is built into it with a thermostat set to turn off the heating element at a temperature of 70 degrees Celsius.
2. It is necessary to make a fuel sump from the same material, equipped with a pipe with an overflow. Through this pipe, oil from the sump will flow back into the tank. To drain dirt from the sump, you can provide a plug in its bottom.

• Assemble the burner body: connect the nozzle from the squeegee to the 2-inch cross in the front part, then adapters: from the top for oil supply, from the back side for air. From below, a 2/1-inch adapter and a squeegee are connected to the crosspiece, through which excess oil will drain into the sump. The adapters are made of plugs with drilled holes into which the fuel and air channel tubes are inserted.

The housing can also be made from a tee, in which the air duct is inserted into the upper part, having previously drilled a hole of the required diameter.

• The fuel path is made of a copper tube, one end of which is wound around the nozzle three times, and then led through a plug adapter into the housing at the top. The fuel pipe is connected to the pump, a coarse strainer is installed and the other end of the pipe is inserted into the tank. The fuel path can be equipped with a valve. The pump is connected to an electric motor operating from a 220 V network.

• An air duct made of a metal tube is attached at one end to a hemisphere with a hole, having previously installed a plug adapter at the required distance. The hemisphere should be positioned so that the oil from the fuel tube evenly flows onto the rounded part of the nozzle, and then into the lower part of the housing and into the sump. The other part of the air duct is connected to a compressor, which is also connected to a 220 V network.
• Since the installation will have as many as three consumers of electricity, which are not turned on simultaneously, it is advisable to equip the burner with a control panel: install a separate toggle switch or button to turn on the heating element and a separate toggle switch to turn on the compressor and pump. If desired, you can equip the remote control with a light signaling system made of diode lamps.
• You can equip the burner with a controller that automatically turns on the units in accordance with the selected mode. Electric ignition is realized using spark plugs, and to extinguish the burner it is enough to turn off the oil supply.

Video - burner assembly diagram:

Preparing fuel for the burner

Almost any waste oil can be used in a Babington burner. Automotive waste with a large number of foreign inclusions is filtered before being poured into the tank through a mesh and mixed with cleaner oil. Oils with a small amount of impurities can be poured without preparation.

When using edible vegetable oils, such as deep frying, it is recommended to let it sit for several hours and carefully drain off the residue. These oils are sufficiently fluid at normal temperatures, so they can be heated in the tank only when the burner is started. When using fuel oil and other thick materials, they must be heated to a temperature of 70 to 90 degrees, otherwise the pump will work with overload.

In this article we consider in detail the entire process of making a long-burning potbelly stove: from arranging the foundation to making a chimney. The technology for safely disassembling a gas cylinder and then making a wood-burning potbelly stove from it can be found here. About the pros and cons of a long-burning wood-burning stove made by yourself, read:

How to build a relationship with an old lamp

If you get your hands on a rare old instrument, you should not rush to put it into operation. The same should apply to a tool that has simply not been used for a long time. It is useful to start by cleaning the outside of the lamp and inspecting it carefully. You should make sure that the control valve rotates without problems, the container lid opens and seals securely.

Before using the pump, it is useful to disassemble it and lubricate the cuff with lithol. Now we assemble the pump and check its operation, as well as the tightness of the tank. We pump air into the container without fuel. We apply a solution of water and soap with a brush to all connections and seals: air should not pass anywhere.

Before refilling an old lamp, it is useful to rinse the inside of the tank with gasoline, thus removing possible rust products. If all the pressure is maintained and the tap is working, fill the tool and get to work. Good luck to everyone and may the following video serve as a clear illustration of the above.

Homemade gas burner from a blowtorch

A gas torch is a useful device; it can be useful for forges, soldering, and in many other cases.

This device can be bought, but a homemade gas burner works just as well, and it’s not that difficult to make.

It can be made quickly, the main thing is to follow all the rules so that the finished equipment is completely safe.

Of course, you will not be able to obtain the same power as industrial equipment, but for repairs and a number of small operations such a burner is quite suitable.

How to modify the burner?

To control the fuel flow, you need to install a control valve and a flame divider on the soldering device. The tap mechanism can be installed both on the device itself and on the tube coming from it. It is important to install it so that it is not difficult to use.

It is optimal to install it approximately 2-3 centimeters from the handle. The faucet can be removed from any suitable device or purchased a new one. It is most convenient to place it at the connection point of the tube, additionally sealing the connection to avoid leakage.

The divider can be made of brass. If you have a cylinder-shaped piece with a hole for the tube on one side and a smaller hole on the opposite side. Such a workpiece will require minimal processing and will work as efficiently as possible.

When installing the divider on the tube, make sure that its edges are a couple of millimeters in front of the edge of the nozzle. This position will not only protect the flame from being blown out by the wind, but will also ensure a stable flow of oxygen and maximum combustion power.

You can make a divider in a simpler way. To do this, you will need a brass tube of a slightly larger diameter than was used to make the burner itself.

In this case, parallel mounting should be used.

An area of ​​low pressure will appear at the outlet of the nozzle, so air will be attracted to it and improve combustion.

Conclusion + video

A homemade gas burner is a simple device. It is similar to the primus used by tourists and at dachas. They differ only in size and type of fuel used.

There is no need to pressurize the device to an increased level - the cylinders already have sufficient pressure for high-quality work. It is best to prefer cylinders with propane or a mixture of butane and propane.

If you make it in accordance with all the recommendations given, the device will be reliable and will serve you for many years.

Do-it-yourself gas burners for soldering: instructions for making them using improvised materials

When repairing a car, sometimes you have to resort to soldering various metal parts.

The burner required for this is one of those tools that does not have to be purchased in a store - you can easily make it yourself.

Such skills can be very useful, because it is not always possible to go to a construction supermarket, and interruptions in finances are quite common.

Soldering allows you to make a permanent, hermetically sealed connection of two metal parts by a kind of “gluing” of them with some molten material - solder. The latter must exhibit high adhesion to the metals being joined, that is, be very “sticky”, and have sufficient strength after hardening.

The melting point of the solder must be higher than the operating temperature at which the soldered product is operated; and at the same time lower than the melting point of the base material.

A gas burner is precisely what is needed to heat the solder and thus make it sufficiently viscous.

Obviously, for ease of operation, its torch must maintain a stable shape and temperature.

The advantage of this tool is its ability to process areas with a large area - an electric soldering iron will not be able to handle such a task.

At the same time, you can make a simple, low-power burner with your own hands without much hassle.

With the help of a homemade burner you can do a lot of useful things. Its capabilities will be quite sufficient for soldering copper and brass vessels included in radiators, intercoolers and heat exchangers, as well as for soldering using hard solders.

In addition, only with the help of this tool can you disassemble the radiator in order to replace its core, as well as replace the honeycombs in it.

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