A plow is a labor tool designed for plowing hard soil and has been used by man since ancient times. The intended use of a plow determines its technical and quality characteristics: the design of the frame and cutting element, fastening mechanisms and stops, material of manufacture and its thickness.
General characteristics
There are several types of plows according to their purpose:
- manual - for plowing soft land of a small area;
- horse-mounted - used in situations where it is necessary to cultivate land, access to which is limited for special equipment;
- with rope traction - helps to cultivate the soil in hard-to-reach places, for example, in the mountains or in a swamp;
- mounted – works in conjunction with special equipment, allows you to reduce the turning radius during sequential plowing;
- trailed – general purpose plow.
The mentioned types of plows, in turn, are divided into the following subspecies:
- single-hull;
- double-hull or more;
- disk - reversible;
- rotary.
The generally accepted configuration of a plowing tool, which you can construct with your own hands, is shown in Figure 1.
The main parts of the hull structure have the following parts:
- chisel – pad on the cutting part;
- ploughshare – removable “knife”;
- wing, chest and blade feather;
- uglosnim – cuts corners from layers of soil;
- stand – fastening element.
Modern technologies make it possible to make a plow with your own hands. You can design it according to your drawings or modify a ready-made one to suit your needs. A tool made independently has a number of advantages and characteristic design features.
Various plow designs
First you need to decide on the design of the device, because there are several different types.
Cylindrical
The cylindrical type of the plow is distinguished by its excellent versatility, because it is suitable for almost any type of soil and field size. This shape allows you to cope well with crushing soil. In addition, making such a unit yourself will not be a problem.
The only drawback of this design is its shallow penetration into the ground.
Half-screw
If you do not need to loosen the soil, but only need to raise layers of soil, then the semi-helical shape of the working part of the plow would be an excellent option. It penetrates deeply into the ground, but at the same time practically does not create a loosening effect. It is usually used for heavy soil.
Lemeshny
There are also plowshare plows, but they are quite difficult to make with your own hands, so they are not worth considering.
Features of a homemade model
A plow assembled with your own hands is a tool that meets target needs and has a low cost. To assemble it, you can use materials available, as well as parts of the structures of other agricultural units. The latter can be taken from old agricultural workshops, ferrous metal collection points, and other similar places.
A homemade plow can be easily adjusted to suit your needs. It is possible to adapt it to different types of soil, draft mechanisms, and even to the functions of processing agricultural crops. Your own plow can be manufactured taking into account the power and productivity of tractor equipment, which will allow you to achieve the highest efficiency and reduce destructive loads on the plowing tool.
The cutting element of this plow can be replaceable and manufactured/sharpened independently, which significantly reduces the cost of servicing the mechanism. With independent production, it becomes possible to vary the intended use - introducing the function of replaceable elements: nozzles, fasteners, parts of the body and frame. This allows for combined work, such as plowing and mowing bushes.
When making your plow, you can pay special attention to the choice of materials and their quality. This is one of the key advantages of homemade assembly, since when buying a plow in a store, it is difficult to be sure of the quality of the metal used to manufacture the factory unit. After purchasing a store model, you may need to further refine it or replace some low-quality structural components.
Materials and tools
Making a homemade plow for a mini-tractor requires the following basic tools:
And an additional tool, the list of which is determined by the design of a particular mechanism and the conditions of its production.
The materials making up the main structure must be solid steel blanks. Violations of their integrity - cracks, deformation, severe rust - are unacceptable.
List of materials that may be needed:
- thick-profile sheet metal of high strength;
- metal corners and plates of sufficient thickness;
- bolts of various calibers;
- additional items (washers, bearings, springs) determined by the characteristics of a particular design.
The importance of drawing up a drawing
Before you start selecting the right tools and materials for the job, you must draw up a thorough drawing of a plow for a mini tractor
Here it is important to consider ease of manufacture, minimum number of parts and maximum functionality. As a rule, to perform work in several passes, a single-body solution is enough, which is a metal pipe with a rectangular cross-section, on one side of which there is a cutting part, and on the other - fasteners and a wheel
If you need to cultivate large areas, it is better to give preference to a homemade double-furrow plow for a compact tractor. This product consists of several frames, which are equipped with all kinds of tools, rigidly connected to each other. They are used for various operations. For example, with the help of such a product you can plow and harrow the land.
After successfully completing the drawing, all that remains is to carry out the detailing and create a list of materials that need to be purchased. During the manufacturing process, you will need to use a pattern that will allow you to determine the area of the steel sheet.
Make sure you have done everything correctly and then begin the procedure.
How to do it?
In order to facilitate the process of assembling a plow for a mini-tractor, you can go by reconstructing another tool of the same name, used in conjunction with draft objects: a horse-drawn plow or a skimmer from the plowing mechanism of a large tractor.
Assembling the required unit requires drawing up the correct drawings. Their presence will ensure optimization of the design, reduction in the number of components, simplicity and quality of assembly.
The drawings should indicate the dimensions of the elements, which are closely related to the dimensions of the mini-tractor and the properties of the cultivated soil. During the manufacturing process, it is important to adhere to these parameters.
At the design stage, it is worth drawing separately each detail that has an irregular shape, respecting its natural size. In the future, from such drawings it will be possible to create a pattern for transferring the image of the part onto a metal workpiece. Some variations of the plow drawing are shown in Figures 2 and 3.
Let's consider two options for making a plow for a mini-tractor.
From a horse plow
This plow configuration, mounted with a mini-tractor, is considered the easiest to manufacture. All work on reconstructing a horse-drawn plow comes down to adapting to it a frame that has a special fastening mechanism, equipping it with a wheel (if necessary) and a weighting agent.
A horse-drawn plow consists of a body and a double-sided frame, which serves as a mechanism for attaching to the animal's harness and as a means of controlling the plowing process. Its simplest configuration is shown in photo 4.
In this case, it is necessary to reconstruct the mounting part of the horse-drawn plow into one that will be installed on a mini-tractor with the least effort. This process can be simplified by making a tow bar for a tractor mount. A copy of it is shown in photograph 5.
The towing device is easy to manufacture. A wide plate, which has two horizontal holes with internal threads at the edges, is complemented by a protrusion in the middle, into which a fork ball with a leg is screwed/welded. An L-shaped part is attached to the center of the plate, serving as a locking mechanism for the plow frame mounted on the tow bar. The plate is placed between the two “ears” of the tractor mount and secured with four bolts.
The modification of the horse-drawn plow shown in photograph 4 is equipped with a special wheel. It serves as a support for the structure frame; it can be used to adjust the depth of penetration of the plow into the soil.
Adjustment is carried out using a simple mechanism - a threaded bracket into which a clamping bolt is screwed. The wheel stand can move vertically inside the bracket. The bolt fixes it in the desired position. This design allows, if necessary, to move the bracket along the plow frame.
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The wheel itself is made of a metal rim, spokes and an axle drum. To make it, you can use a 300x50 mm metal strip, reinforcing bars, or a piece of pipe with a diameter equal to the diameter of the wheel axle.
The metal strip is bent in the form of a hoop, its edges are welded together, the weld seam is ground with a grinder or cutting wheel of an angle grinder. A piece of pipe equal to the width of the tape is placed in the center of the circle. The distance from the rim to the outer surface of the pipe - drum is measured. The reinforcement spokes will be equal to this distance. The resulting blanks are welded together. To improve the torsion characteristics of the wheel, a bearing of the appropriate diameter can be welded into the drum. This will reduce friction and reduce the load on the wheel axle.
The described plow design can be operated in two ways. In the first case, a second person will be needed to control the plow from behind, adjusting the furrow line. In this case, the “manager” applies pressure on the frame necessary for sufficient immersion of the ploughshare into the ground.
In the second case, the presence of an assistant is not necessary. The plow becomes heavier and moves on its own. The load can be a piece of heavy metal or a stone enclosed in a frame. The weighting agent is placed on the edge away from the tractor. In this case, the pressure on the share will be maximum with the available weight. To prevent the load from overturning the plow, it should be secured on the underside of the frame.
When operating a plow without a second person, it is worth considering the factor of furrow curvature. The simplicity of the described design assumes that the plow “swims” from side to side. To eliminate this problem, it is necessary to equip it with a “hard” clutch with the tractor. In this case, the draft mechanism will straighten the furrow strip.
From skimmers
A skimmer is an element of a tractor plow that serves to cut off the top layer of soil during plowing. Photo 6.
Its shape is similar to the working body of a plow share, and its size is half the size. This fact allows you to effectively use the skimmer as a plow for a mini-tractor.
During the design process, you will need to weld a frame that will hold the skimmer and attach it to the tractor towbar, and also equip it with a stop wheel.
When creating drawings of this design, it is worth taking into account the power of the tractor, the condition of the cultivated soil, and the volume of future work. If you plan to plow a large area of land, you can use two skimmers on one frame. In this case, the plow will have a double body. This is necessary in order to reduce the load on one plowshare body and reduce its wear.
The process of assembling the structure and installing it on a tractor is similar to reconstructing a horse-drawn plow. A frame of a similar configuration, a wheel, fastenings for the ploughshare stand and the entire structure to the towbar are made. A weighting device or control handles are installed for manual correction of the furrow.
Manual hiller for potatoes. Homemade manual hiller from a bicycle
It is very difficult to hill up potatoes and beds with your own hands, but a homemade hiller makes life much easier for the farmer. The scheme for creating the unit is very simple.
Operating principle
The key part of a manual hiller is the cultivator or plow. It is he who will do what is done manually with a hoe or hoe - plow the soil. This plow, using its sharp end (“nose”), digs slightly into the soil and distributes it on its sides, covering the potato rows with soil.
If the hiller is a homemade model made from a bicycle, then the cultivator will be mounted on its frame. By slightly changing the structure of the unit, grabbing the steering wheel, you can control the device, directing it in the desired direction. The movement of the hiller itself is carried out due to a single wheel in the front part of the frame.
The essence of the work of a manual hiller can be summarized more briefly using the following algorithm:
What is needed to create a hiller?
First of all, you will need certain equipment and materials:
At the same time, you will need a little patience and the ability to work with a welding machine.
Preliminary actions
To begin with, prepare the bicycle frame: handlebars, saddle, pedals, and remove the rear wheel. The second wheel is disassembled and cleaned - only a metal rim is needed.
The metal rim penetrates the soil better, which is why the hiller will gain much greater stability and maneuverability than with rubber. Operating such a unit will become much easier.
The process of creating a hiller
The manufacturing process can be divided into 5 stages:
If the cultivator will be screwed on, then tighten the nuts as tightly as possible, otherwise the manual hiller will not last even a couple of days. This is where both nut and bolt wrenches come in handy. By operating them simultaneously, you will be able to secure the parts firmly and for a long time.
Creation of a cultivator section
Creating a basic cultivator is quite simple. In fact, this is the same plow. Two plates are attached near the base, which form an angle directed forward (towards the wheel). As the hiller moves, the plates will divide the soil into 2 parts and hill up the potato rows with the raised soil.
However, the following requirements for this part should be adhered to:
After carrying out a full range of work, you should end up with a full-fledged manual hiller that does its job perfectly while growing potatoes.
To familiarize yourself with the device in more detail and understand how to properly make such a homemade hiller, you can see the following
Useful tips
If you operate the hiller together, the hilling process will be significantly simplified and the efficiency of the work done will significantly increase. To operate a manual hiller in pairs, you need to attach a regular belt to the front of the unit.
You can attach some kind of weight to the back. This improves penetration into the ground, which, again, increases work efficiency. But at the same time, it will be more difficult for such a unit to move forward due to the increase in mass.
Other types of hillers
There are many schemes for creating hillers. Next we will consider other methods.
From a bicycle wheel and fork
If you have a front bicycle fork and a wheel for it, then you can create a hiller using the following technology:
The final output will look like this:
Creating such a hiller is much simpler than the one mentioned earlier. However, different types of units should be used for different purposes.
Safety precautions
When operating a homemade plow, appropriate safety measures must be observed. Among them, the most important points can be highlighted.
- while the plow is moving along the furrow, it is unacceptable to adjust it in height, clear the wheel and ploughshare from the earth and other manipulations associated with human participation;
- all connection points must be securely fastened - play is unacceptable;
- it is necessary to carry out timely cleaning of mechanisms and sharpening of cutting elements;
- Perform all actions only with the plow immobilized and the tractor turned off.
To ensure labor safety, it is important to carry out work that meets the technical characteristics of a specific agricultural mechanism. Excessive loads can lead to rapid wear, damage to the unit and harm to human health.
To learn how to make a plow on a mini-tractor with your own hands, see the following video.
Self-production of a single-furrow plow
It is difficult for an inexperienced person to make a 2-body plow for a mini-tractor. It is better to practice on a single-hull design. The hardest job here will be bending the blade. In production this is done on machines, but at home you will have to use a vice, hammer and anvil.
In the photo we presented the diagram. It is used to manufacture a single-hull type structure.
To assemble a plow for a mini-tractor with your own hands, perform the following steps:
- To make a blade you will need sheet steel 3–5 mm thick. First, the blanks are marked on the sheet. All fragments are cut out with a grinder. Next, the workpiece is given a curved shape by holding it in a vice. If an area needs to be corrected somewhere, this is done with a hammer on an anvil.
- The lower side of the blade is reinforced with an additional steel strip. It is fixed with rivets so that their heads do not protrude on the working surface.
- The finished blade is attached to the holder from the back. It is made from a steel strip 400 mm long and 10 mm thick. To adjust the plowing depth, 4–5 holes are drilled on the holder at different levels.
- The body of the attachment is made of steel pipe with a diameter of at least 50 mm. Its length can be in the range of 0.5–1 m. It all depends on the method of attachment to the mini-tractor. On one side of the body, a working part is installed - a blade, and on the other side a flange is welded. It is needed to couple the plow with the mini-tractor.
If desired, the single-hull model can be improved. To do this, install two wheels on the sides, adhering to the center line. The diameter of the large wheel is selected individually. It is installed according to the width of the blade. A small wheel with a diameter of 200 mm is placed on the reverse side along the center line.
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The video talks about making a plow:
Independent production of attachments, taking into account the purchase of metal, will not cost much less than purchasing a factory design. Here it is worth thinking about what is easier to do.
DIY plow drawings
After I got a self-made agricultural winch, which is used for plowing the garden, the question became: should I buy a plow or make it myself? Walking through the shops and bazaar of Smolensk, you get a strange feeling that the plows produced by the industry for walk-behind tractors are a sad sight.
And these industrial creations are suitable only for “picking” and not for plowing the land, and even with the rotation of the layer, and regarding the depth and width of plowing, we can conclude that for planting potatoes with a distance between rows of 60 cm, not one of the proposed ones is suitable in the plow trade. Either our manufacturers are saving money, or the power of the most popular walk-behind tractors is not enough to work with a normal plow with a working width of 30 cm. When planting potatoes, you shouldn’t plow one furrow three times. And the price wants to leave the best - under 2 thousand. rubles (for a couple of pieces of iron from a scrap metal collection point).
The next step to find something useful is to search the Internet. To my surprise, there are 3-4 original descriptions with drawings floating in the vastness of the Russian-language network (this fact surprises me very much). The next step is to look at what those around you are using. It was not possible to buy a suitable plow; the decision was made to make a plow with our own hands. Based on the fact that the plow was supposed to be used for planting potatoes with a winch for plowing, the following requirements are imposed on it:
1. Plowing width – up to 30 cm.
2. Plowing depth -10-20cm.
3. The plow must hold the furrow itself, without digging in or jumping out of the furrow. The geometry of the plow must ensure movement with the specified parameters without the help of a plowman.
4. Possibility of adjusting the depth and width of plowing.
5. Minimum weight and sufficient strength.
My uncle has been using his homemade motorized winch for plowing for more than 10 years and has tried several options. For the last few years, he has settled on an option optimized for a homemade motorized winch for the garden, namely for planting potatoes with a distance between rows of 60 cm. There is also a homemade hiller for a motorized winch and a homemade potato digger, all this can be viewed on the corresponding pages of the site.
Plow drawing
Field board drawing.
The blade is bent according to this template until the two profiles coincide and then welded at an angle.
Using a drawing of a homemade plow, you need to draw a template for the plow pattern on thick paper, and then transfer the picture to metal and cut out the blank with a grinder. Personally, I used stainless steel material with a thickness of 1.8 mm. Many often use a sheet of 2-3 mm. The cutting part of the plow is reinforced with a strip of thicker metal. Someone suggests using a disk from a circular machine for these purposes, or a spring from a “Muscovite”. From personal experience, if you plow a summer cottage plot for a family of 4 people in the spring and fall, cultivating six acres, you shouldn’t strive for super-strength. It is more profitable to make a plow that is light but strong enough for its tasks. It’s better to repair or replace something after 10 years, and only if necessary, than to carry around the heavy structure of a homemade plow for 10 years. There is no need for excess weight.
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This is what the plowing width adjustment system looks like. By rearranging the large wheel, you can change the plowing width within significant limits. When I plant potatoes, I set the grip to 30 cm, in two passes the distance between the rows is 60 cm. For autumn plowing of the garden or when plowing virgin soil, I use a smaller grip. The small wheel is made so wide that the plow does not press into the ground.
Having looked at the pictures below, you can imagine the basic principles of operation of a homemade plow, or rather a guide system that allows the plow, without the participation of a plowman, to move strictly in a straight line at the established plowing depth and width. The plowing width is regulated by moving the large wheel, which, when the point of application of the traction force is shifted as shown in the figure, is pressed against the furrow, which allows the plow to repeat the direction of the previous furrow. The plow turns slightly, which increases the plowing width. In fact, the width of the nose in the direction perpendicular to the axis of movement of the plow is less than 300 mm, however, the specified width is available for plowing.
The plow wheel runs along the bottom of the plowed furrow and this situation is observed from the previous furrow to the next. As a result of the application of traction force, a force is exerted to deepen the plow until the plow is aligned with the axis of the wheel, as shown in the figure, as a result, all forces are balanced, and the system operates very stably. Rough adjustment of the plowing depth is carried out by selecting the appropriate difference in wheel diameters, and smooth adjustment is carried out by adjusting the tilt of the plow. At this stage, there was no longer any need to use handles to control the plow, except for some special plowing conditions.
Plows not only loose soil as in the video, but also virgin soil
Plow for agricultural winch – video
The plow is used in conjunction with such a winch for plowing
You can find industrial motorized and electric winches for plows on sale.
A walk-behind tractor is a worthy replacement for mini tractors in small farms and household plots. Equipped with a diesel or gasoline engine, depending on the power, in one work shift it is capable of processing an impressive area, plowing it manually would take many times longer.
Homemade assembly of a power unit (motoblock) is impractical due to the high cost and complexity of the process. But its main working body - the plow - is a simple matter to make and assemble with your own hands, as we will see in this article.
Plow on a walk-behind tractor: varieties and their design features
A plow is a special device for plowing the soil, equipped with a metal share.
Designed for loosening and turning over the top layers of soil, which is an important part of pre-sowing and fall treatment. Initially, plows were pulled by people, and somewhat later by farm animals. Today, a plow on a walk-behind tractor is one of the options for using this mounted auxiliary equipment, in addition to a tractor or mini tractor. Depending on the shape of the main working elements, plows on walk-behind tractors are:
- plowshares;
- dumpless;
- disk;
- rotary;
- combined.
By type of ploughshare:
- screw;
- cylindrical;
- semi-cylindrical.
Based on the number of working parts:
- single-body plow on a walk-behind tractor;
- double-hull;
- multi-hull models designed for extremely complex tasks.
In addition, plows for walk-behind tractors, according to the specifics of fastening, are divided into conventional and reversible.
How to make a plow on a walk-behind tractor with your own hands?
A plow on a walk-behind tractor with your own hands is not a transcendental thing, but quite real. Thanks to proven drawings and high-quality materials, this process is reduced to several successive stages, ultimately resulting in a unit with low cost and high production resource.
The plow for the walk-behind tractor shown in the drawing is considered universal. In order to make a homemade plow for a walk-behind tractor, you need to remember the following nuances:
- deviation from the standard dimensions of a proven design may result in breakdown of the unit;
- for a plow it is worth considering a mounting stand that would allow it to be adjusted and installed on the walk-behind tractor itself. It is best to choose all-metal plates 1 cm thick for these purposes. By adjusting the stand, you can set the desired plowing depth;
- the blade must withstand heavy loads. For this, the most suitable material would be sheet steel of standard thickness. The main thing is not to overdo it with the bend. It is advisable to use a gas heater to heat the pipe and bend it in the direction required according to the drawing or workpiece;
- ploughshare - a composite plow mechanism that directly interacts with the ground, preferably made of high-alloy steel or a special grade of steel “Sormite”. The difference in the thickness of the top and bottom layers will ensure uneven grinding and long-term work without sharpening.
Let's consider some options for a homemade plow on a walk-behind tractor.
The process of creating a hiller
The manufacturing process can be divided into 5 stages:
- The mount on the rear wheel is cut so that in the end there is only a “triangle” from the bicycle frame.
- The cultivator will be placed instead of the wheel, and it must be fixed there.
- Screw or weld the cultivator. This should be done efficiently, because this part of the hiller will bear the greatest load.
If the cultivator will be screwed on, then tighten the nuts as tightly as possible, otherwise the manual hiller will not last even a couple of days. This is where both nut and bolt wrenches come in handy. By operating them simultaneously, you will be able to secure the parts firmly and for a long time.
- Next, the offset of the cultivator is adjusted (how far/close it is). This is done for the purpose of convenience during the hilling process, so as not to trip over the cultivator blades.
- The previously removed steering wheel is tightly twisted in place of the saddle.
Reversible plow for walk-behind tractor: do it at home
The reversible (reversible) plow to the walk-behind tractor is externally distinguished by its curved shape, which helps turn the top layer of soil by 1800. It has gained enormous popularity on hard soils, where conventional loosening does not bring the expected result. Its device is the most complex among other varieties.
A universal version of a reversible (reversible) plow is shown in the figure.
The size of the structural elements is detailed in the drawing. To invent it you will need to do (notations according to the drawing):
- plowshares (a) made of steel. It is desirable that they be removable for possible sharpening or modernization. The cutting part is processed on an anvil and sharpened. The lower one is designed for cutting into the soil, the upper one turns over the cut layer. The strength of the latter can be strengthened with a corner welded to it;
- form a dump, there are several ways to do this. According to one of them, a steel pipe with a diameter of no more than 6 cm is taken, to which a cardboard blank is attached. There should be about 20 0 between the generatrix of the pipe and the stencil;
- side part of the stand (b);
- spacer plate (c);
- base of the product (d);
- corner (d);
- stand (e).
The diagram shows the assembly sequence of the rotary plow, where 1 is the share, 2 is the side part of the stand and 3 is the auxiliary sheet.
A variation of the standard reversible plow is the Zykov rotary plow, the distinctive feature of which is the reinforcement of the plowshares with steel blanks on bolted ties and a large angle of attack. An additional wheel can be used to ensure structural stability.
In the proposed drawing it is highlighted in yellow.
Assembling a homemade product
After all the elements of the future plow are ready, to complete the work you will need a 0.5 x 0.5 m metal sheet and a welding inverter. The plow parts are welded to the workpiece with certain angular dimensions: the plow and the side shield. The moldboard part is applied to the surface of the ploughshare.
If the angles are calculated incorrectly, the plow blade is brought to the correct shape using a hammer, and then it is attached to the back of the ploughshare and to the side shield by welding. Afterwards, an expansion bar and a base in the form of a plate are installed on the shield, on which the corners for the ploughshare are attached.
The assembled home-made product for tillage is carefully inspected for all welded joints and, if there are no defects, all seams are finally welded.
Upon completion of the assembly and welding work, the auxiliary sheet is removed using an angle grinder or available metalworking tools. Places of welded joints require mandatory cleaning, and the blade and ploughshare are treated with sandpaper for standard roughness.
To set the product in motion, it must be attached to a walk-behind tractor. A similar design can be used when constructing a plow for mini tractors. The difference will only be in overall and geometric dimensions, depending on what type of mini tractor the product is designed for.
Building a plow with your own hands, in addition to acquiring certain skills, will significantly help reduce the labor intensity when working on your site.
Rotary plow on a walk-behind tractor: advantages of the unit
It has the most advanced form for plowing virgin soil and areas overgrown with weeds to a depth of about 30 cm. A homemade rotary plow includes:
The walk-behind tractor on which such a tool is mounted must have a working power take-off shaft. It is he who drives the axle, and she – the plowshares.
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Homemade rotary plows for walk-behind tractors are most often found with disk mechanisms. But drum, blade and auger plows are also known. Indispensable for applying fertilizers and controlling weeds.
DIY disc plow
A disk plow on a walk-behind tractor or a hiller plow is a special device used for cultivating the soil before planting tuber crops. Lays furrows for planting potatoes, beets, celery, and hills them.
Below is a diagram and drawing of the hiller
Its structure includes:
- 2 – disks;
- 3 – fist;
- 4 – bracket;
- 5 – axis;
- 6 – scraper;
- 7 – driving beam;
- 8 – screed;
- 9 – handle.
The number 1 indicates the work area.
Discs can be taken from an old seeder. Their installation is carried out at an angle to improve the productivity of arable work. Attaching the hiller to the walk-behind tractor through the hitch bracket. The T-shaped plow leader is screwed to it with bolts and a stopper. At high speed, the hiller may begin to slip. Therefore, you need to work with it only at low speeds or with paired wheels.
According to another instruction, the disk plow for the walk-behind tractor begins to be assembled by cutting out an equilateral corner. The toe is welded to it, and then through the thrust bar and the heel. The discs are mounted on special hinges, which are welded to ensure their symmetrical position to the common axis.
Do-it-yourself plow to a walk-behind tractor from a horse-drawn tiller
An equally viable idea is to recycle an old horse-drawn plow into a walk-behind tractor. A full description of the process is given in the video.
A feature of all horse plows without exception is their heaviness, created by a bulky moldboard. If such a plow is installed on a walk-behind tractor without modification, the ground will not tilt.
This is a big plus, since the horse plow share will not undergo any changes.
To make a plow from a horse horse into a walk-behind tractor you will need:
- make your own blade, which is cut according to a pre-drawn drawing from a steel blank (3 cm thick). For accuracy, it is advisable to make a cardboard template;
- after cutting, the stainless steel blade is given a special shape;
- remove the horse blade and install a homemade one instead;
- remove the handles that were on the vertical axis;
- Instead, weld metal fasteners through which the plow will be hung to the walk-behind tractor.
- If during field testing it turns out that the converted horse plow does not throw well, the ploughshare should be slightly bent so that it can cut deeper into the soil.
Preliminary actions
To begin with, prepare the bicycle frame: handlebars, saddle, pedals, and remove the rear wheel. The second wheel is disassembled and cleaned - only a metal rim is needed.
The metal rim penetrates the soil better, which is why the hiller will gain much greater stability and maneuverability than with rubber. Operating such a unit will become much easier.
Installing a plow on a walk-behind tractor: step-by-step steps
Before you attach the plow to the walk-behind tractor and start setting it up, the draft unit itself must go through a number of preparatory procedures. They boil down to:
- transporting the walk-behind tractor to where it will be used;
- dismantling the wheel travel, which is replaced by lugs. Otherwise, the equipment will begin to slip and may get stuck.
Once these requirements have been met, installation of the plow can begin.
It means:
- fastening the plow to the hitch of a walk-behind tractor with nuts, which will allow you to independently set its operating parameters in the future;
- prepare two fastening pins with which to attach the hitches and plow to the shackle.
This completes the task of installing the plow and you can move on to the next one.
How to adjust a plow on a walk-behind tractor?
Adjustment is an extremely important point on which the performance of not only a homemade or factory plow, but also a walk-behind tractor depends.
To correctly set up a plow on a walk-behind tractor, you need to pay attention to three key parameters:
Work progress:
- set the width along the edges, for which the edge should not move above or below the soil hook;
- Place the walk-behind tractor stably on stands to set the depth required for plowing. It must be remembered that it varies by season (in winter up to 0.25 m, and in spring about 0.2 m);
- adjust the attachment of the plow to the walk-behind tractor;
- make bolt fastenings so that the rear of the plow is in the same plane with the soil;
- remove the walk-behind tractor from the stand.
The setting is considered complete if the steering wheel is located at the level of the operator’s waist.
Dimensions
The dimensions of different types of plows may vary. You can consider the parameters of parts using the example of a rotary specimen. It is taken into account that the rotary type of such a device is assembled from the following bases:
- side vertical part of the runner;
- horizontal plane below the skid;
- front dump part.
The most productive is considered to be a plow in which the cutting edge at the bottom of the fixed share is 20 mm below the bottom of the horizontal skid. Another correctly aligned part of the plow is the matching of the cutting edge on the side of the fixed share with the cutting edge on the side of the moldboard. The share and blade should not protrude more than 10 mm beyond the boundaries of the vertical plane on the side of the skid.
There is one more important nuance - fastening the front plane of the blade share without visible cracks and gaps, and in the same plane. If we look at these parts in more detail, they should be well polished and, like a mirror, reflect any surface. There should be no protruding fasteners under any circumstances. As soon as the plow returns from earthworks, it is advisable to clean it of settled soil and foreign particles. Elements that have been polished should be poured with oil or coated with grease. Next, the mechanisms need to be rubbed using a rag. In this way, it will be possible to protect the structure from aggressive external influences, which can lead to the formation of corrosion on the surface of the plow.
As for the 4th correctly constructed structure, it includes the flat front surface of the ploughshare, which makes an angle of 20 degrees with the flat part of the plow structure. It will be equal to the angle located at the rear of the exposed share. The cutting sidewalls-edges of the plowshare and blade will also have 20-degree angles with their bases on the side of the furrow. Moreover, the edge located on the side of the blade may be slightly rounded.
Plow on a walk-behind tractor: review of popular models and their characteristics
Although industrial modifications are inferior to home-made analogues in terms of costs, they are highly reliable and durable. There are many different models on the modern market, which differ not only in requirements for soil quality, but also in the technical parameters of the power plant itself.
Plows for the Salyut walk-behind tractor
"Salut" is a well-known brand of cultivators and walk-behind tractors. Thanks to the plow, the soil is plowed to a depth of up to 25 cm. They function with the following types of plows:
- reversible, suitable for dense soil - the heaviest of those considered;
- single-hull without coupling, the weight of which is 9.55 kg with a plowing depth of up to 200 mm;
- a Zykov rotary plow weighing 9 kg, which loosens 20-25 cm of the top layer of soil.
Plows on the Mole walk-behind tractor
The Krot motor cultivator is known in several modifications - MK-1 and Mk-2. Both are perfectly compatible with universal reversible plows. For better adhesion to the surface, it is necessary to purchase additional lugs.
Technical characteristics of the "Mole" plow:
- Processing width – 20 cm;
- Plowing depth – 20 cm;
- Weight – 8 kg.
Plows for the Neva walk-behind tractor
The Neva walk-behind tractor has several basic modifications, including MB-1 and MB-2. They differ in power and transmission. Therefore, they are equipped with different adapters.
MB-1 is compatible with a universal single-body plow without a hitch, as well as the P1 20/3 model. The latter covers a row 22 cm wide and is adapted to over-compacted soils.
MB-2 works with:
- plow “Mole” (1-furrow), weighing 8.5 kg;
- 2-turn with 15 kg weight and 20 cm processing;
- single-furrow plow P1-20/2 (8.5 kg).
Plow for MTZ walk-behind tractors
The following plows can work with the MTZ-09N motor cultivator and other modifications of the manufacturer:
- universal reversible PU-00.000-01, made of steel and having a specific ridge shape;
- P1-20/3, smaller in size than the previous one;
- reversible double-sided with feather-shaped ploughshare. Together with such a plow, the walk-behind tractor can be operated at a speed of 2-5 km/h.
The universal plow of the PU series has gained great popularity. Its features are:
- light weight;
- ease of transportation;
- fastening with a conventional hitch;
- track width 30 cm;
- adjustability of plowing depth, which is max. can be 25 cm.
In addition to those mentioned above, plows for walk-behind tractors with a support wheel, which are adjusted by a screw mechanism, have become extremely popular among consumers.
