Do-it-yourself heated insoles: a review of ideas for making your own (125 photos and videos)

Each of us has encountered a situation when the insoles inside the shoes “treacherously” got wet. In addition to the fact that this is an unpleasant sensation, it can provoke various diseases, including joints. Because the most common insoles made of padding polyester or faux fur are capable of accumulating moisture.

In addition, they dry out rather poorly, and this event takes a lot of time.

In this article we will look at what types of heated insoles there are and how to make them so that your feet are always warm and dry.

What does the price depend on?

The price for an individual order is determined taking into account the choice of material used and subsequent production costs. The cost of these insoles increases as their size increases due to increased manufacturing costs. In addition, the type of shoes for which the order is made is taken into account:

Sport shoes.
Open summer.
Closed autumn, winter.
Other models.

Many insoles additionally have rigid arch supports, various heel shock absorbers or antibacterial substrates built in, which are designed to extend the shelf life of the insoles. The more such “bells and whistles” are involved, the higher the cost of the final order will be.

How long to wear orthopedic insoles

Features of use

When using reusable self-heating insoles, you should follow certain rules to extend the life of use:

Can't be washed.
Severe deformations (bending) and loads are not allowed.
Dry at room temperature.
When playing sports or other significant loads, the insoles should be turned off.
When finished using, turn off the power source.
Before charging the battery, the insoles should be dried.
Size adjustments should be made along the dotted lines indicated on the surface.
Cleaning should be done using a damp cloth or sponge.

Thermacell enjoys well-deserved popularity among users

At what price to buy good heated insoles - review of current offers

We have given some prices in our article. In many ways, the cost of the purchase will depend on a set of many factors: the presence or absence of replaceable batteries, operating time, and the quality of the insoles themselves. The range of prices is quite wide: from 250 rubles for Aliexpress, to 4000-5000 thousand for branded brands. It is best to rely on reviews.

And if you have experience using heated insoles, offer your options.

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We make orthopedic insoles

What can shoe insoles be made from for those people who suffer from flat feet?

The process of making inserts for people with foot pathologies is quite complex and time-consuming. The specifics of the work require special knowledge and preliminary training. If you still decide to make such linings with your own hands, then we will definitely help you.

For work we will need the following materials:

Regular insoles.
Medical cotton wool.
Medical bandage 4-5 cm wide.
Patch.
Thick fabric.

The process of making insoles with arch support:

We take any pair of purchased shoe mats. The choice depends on the type of shoes for which you are making this product.

For winter boots you need an insulated version, for shoes and sneakers - thin insoles. Now we place our foot on the insole and draw a line with a pen between the big toe and the next toe. After this, we make a cotton ball and secure it to the marked mark with a band-aid. Now we are doing the most important part of the whole work - the instep support. To make it, take a roll of bandage of the specified width and attach it at the arch of the foot. After this, we fix the bandage with a plaster, without moving from the location of the bandage. We cut out a template from thick fabric for the outer side of the instep support, using the parameters of the previous shoe lining

A piece of old jeans works well for these purposes. We sew the fabric to the insole with arch support. The product can be stitched either by machine or by hand. We carry out exactly the same manipulations with the second shoe mat.

That's all! Homemade orthopedic insole is ready!

The undoubted advantage of such products is their low price and availability. But the effectiveness of the result can only be checked during wear. It is especially advisable to make pads with insoles for children suffering from this disease, since the leg grows quickly, and buying new insoles is very expensive.

Choose the thickness of the medical bandage that will be most comfortable for you.
Homemade instep supports often do not match due to the fact that the structure of the left and right feet may be different. In this case, you need to choose a comfortable size for each foot.
Such a device can be rearranged from one shoe to another only if the shoe sizes are the same.

Now your feet will always be protected, and your shoes will last for many more years, thanks to the new knowledge and skills you have acquired. We wish you new inventions and be healthy!

If you feel tired and uncomfortable in your legs when walking or running, or if you have pain in your feet, orthopedic insoles are very useful. They are an effective solution against leg pain that is caused by muscle imbalances and biomechanical defects of the legs.

Threads and tools

In order to sew durable slippers, you need to use special, especially strong threads. For sewing slippers, cotton threads in 6,9,12 folds No. 30, 40, 50 are suitable. Cotton lavsan threads No. 44 LH-1, 65 LH-1 or lavsan threads No. 22 L, 33 L, 55 L, 90 L. For stitching parts For the top of the slippers, nylon threads No. 65 K, 95 K are best suited. To attach the sole, stronger nylon threads No. 470 K, 565 K are needed.

The details of the top and the edging of the sections can be done on a sewing machine, but you will have to stitch the top and edging to the sole by hand. Therefore, purchase a special awl from a hardware store. With its help you can sew strong and durable slippers from any materials.

What is the base of almost all shoe insoles made of?

The basis for the manufacture of most insoles is a modern material - foamed rubber latex, the structure of which consists of interconnected cells of latex foam and creates a network of channels that pump air with every movement of the foot. As a result of research, it was revealed that latex foam has bacteriostatic and bactericidal properties. What is rubber latex? Latex is the milky sap of the hevia tree. "Kao-uchu" for the Indians was a tree that cries. For us today it is Hevea Brasiliensis, a tall-trunked plant originating in Brazil but grown primarily in Malaysia, New Guinea. The peculiarity of this plant is that when cut, it releases juice, which quickly hardens, but at the same time retains its elastic properties. After receiving the raw materials, in compliance with all environmental requirements, the processing stage begins, during which other natural substances are added to obtain a compact mass rich in millions of air bubbles. The foam thus obtained is then sent to final processing. This process, called vulcanization, causes millions of interconnecting microcells to form within the latex foam. They provide the necessary balance of elasticity, temperature and air circulation in the finished product, latex foam. Thanks to these characteristics, latex foam insoles provide the comfort and hygiene necessary for a physically healthy life. Now you know all the properties of latex. It is latex that gives the insoles a freshness and hygiene that you will never find in other synthetic materials.

Advantages and disadvantages of wireless insoles

Heated insoles have both their pros and some cons. The advantages of the products include:

keep feet warm even in severe frosts;
wireless insoles can be adjusted to size;
chemical products have children's sizes;
adjustment of temperature and heating modes;
fast charging from a regular network;
comfortable to wear;
can be turned off upon entering the building.

The disadvantages of insoles are as follows:

not all budget models are able to retain heat for a long time;
the high position of the heel in wireless insoles gives the feeling as if you are on a heel;
in battery models you have to attach the battery to your leg;
there is a risk of the wire breaking or breaking at the most inopportune moment.

After weighing all the pros and cons, you yourself make the decision to purchase “warm” insoles. If you don’t want to waste money, you can make heated insoles for fishing or just walking with your own hands from scrap materials.

Final stage

There comes a time when the heating platform can be inserted into the shoes. A regular insole is placed on top of it. Where should I put the battery housing? It's simple. It can be “hidden” between the lacing and tongue if we are talking about sneakers or boots.

In fact, you can make heating for shoes in different ways. But, if you are not one of the people who like to create everything and anything with their own hands, then do not despair.

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Today it is easy to become the owner of insoles with insulation. Go to the store and buy.

How to make a pattern for warm house boots

For those who prefer warmer house boots to slippers with an open back, the work will be more difficult. You already know how to make a sole pattern; just outline the foot and add a seam allowance along the contour. But to make a pattern for the top of such slippers (like Uggs) you need complex calculations. Therefore, we’ll better use the “wrapping” method.

Since house shoes do not require a tight fit to the foot, but on the contrary, shoes or boots with flat soles can serve as a template for removing the pattern of the upper part and further modeling.

First you need to crumple the paper so that it lays out better on the convex surface of the shoe. Then wrap it around your chosen shoe or foot. Wrapping the leg is not very convenient, but the pattern is more accurate. If you are satisfied with loose and spacious boots, then use shoes for the template.

While wrapping the template, you can add folds, securing them with glue or paper tape or pins. Outline the line of connection with the sole, the middle line along the front of the boot and along the heel, the contour of the upper edge of the boots (Fig. a).

Remove the paper (without splitting the pins) if it does not lie flat. Notches are made along the line of connection with the sole in the toe area, and the pattern lines are adjusted. The resulting pattern can be divided into several parts depending on the model you have developed (Fig. b).

What can slippers be made from?

To sew home slippers you need to use various materials. The right and left parts of the bottom of the sole are cut from shoe leather, split leather, or leatherette. The insoles (the upper part of the sole of the slippers) are made of split leather, suede or cloth. There should be another pad between the insole and the sole. Usually it is cut out of cardboard and batting (sintepon or thin foam rubber are also suitable).

The details of the top of the slippers are cut from leather and lining; they can also be duplicated with soft pads, then quilted.

If the top of the slippers consists of two halves, grind them down or join them with braid. They are glued to the gasket and lining, edged or braided around the sections (closed slippers have one cut, open slippers have two). Then decorative finishing is performed.

Tests in the apartment.

I note the time and arm myself with a cheap thermometer.

The apartment is initially quite warm. The thermometer shows ~26 degrees.

I turn on the minimum heating mode.

A minute later, the temperature is already 30 degrees. Third minute - 33 g At the end of the 5th minute - 37 g.

I turn on the maximum heating mode and reset the time. After a minute the temperature is 45 degrees. Another minute and it’s already 56 degrees. 5 minutes in maximum heating mode - 60 g

10 minutes 62 gr. The temperature does not rise above 62-65 degrees (the right and left insoles heat up slightly differently). I checked the insoles 30 minutes after turning them on - I still see the same 62-65 degrees. I didn’t try it further.

What happens when heated? 62 degrees maximum heating, minus 26 degrees ambient temperature - it turns out to be +36 degrees. In theory, if the boots have cooled down to zero degrees, the insole will heat them up by 36 degrees. In practice, most likely this figure will be 2a times less. Those. I would really expect that the temperature in the boot would be 15-20 degrees higher than the ambient temperature. It might not be so bad when it's zero degrees outside. But in -25 frost, this insole will not save you.

Care and operation

There is one rule that applies to all three types of insoles - you must not break the protective casing. Although most insoles can tolerate a certain amount of moisture, it is best not to test them for water tolerance - although products with a remote battery have a better chance in this regard.

When you get home, it’s better to take out the insoles. If they were wet, let them dry and charge them. Do not allow kinks or tension on the wire - this can shorten its service life.

All the advantages and disadvantages of heated insoles

Of course, considering the disadvantages and advantages of insoles in isolation from specific models is very subjective. But they still have common features and characteristics. The main advantage of all heated insoles can be considered autonomous heat in the shoes. Electronic ones allow you to use heating for a long time; after discharging, you can charge them again or change the batteries. However, the shape and structure impose a limitation on shoe size. Due to the fact that a heating element, battery and control unit must be placed inside the insole, their physical dimensions are much larger than usual. In addition, the battery tends to discharge at low negative temperatures. Chemical insoles are completely autonomous and do not depend on energy. However, chemical elements do not last forever and can be used a limited number of times. Usually this is a one-time warm-up for 6 hours. With this type of insoles, it is difficult to control the heating: depending on external factors, the insoles may not warm up to a comfortable temperature or, conversely, suddenly heat up to a burning state. But chemical models are more convenient and comfortable, since they do not contain large blocks. In addition, you can buy disposable heated insoles much cheaper than their reusable counterparts.

But the master himself assembled the convector on insoles

The heating thread was laid across the insole so that when walking with bends in the sole, the wires would not move. The entire length of the nichrome is sewn to the base.

There is room for a second layer of heating element. It will be mounted on a leather base, and it transfers heat well to the feet. In this case, little energy is lost, and the skin does not warp from the heating of the elements. The leather insole is sewn to the bottom - the seams will pass between the nichrome threads.

Two nichrome contacts are removed from the insole, two stranded copper wires up to one and a half meters long each (plus and minus the battery) are soldered to them.

Note!

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Helpful tips when choosing

When purchasing, there are several recommendations to consider:

The shape of the insole must match the shoe,
It should be the right size. If it is too large, you can cut it off from the toe side without losing the therapeutic effect,
It must be three-layer and permeable to air,
The rigidity of the instep support is chosen by trying on different models and determining for yourself the degree of comfort for the foot,
For children, it is better to buy insoles at the pharmacy with a thickened instep support, since their arch has not yet been formed.
It makes sense to order individual ones after 23-25 years,
If any orthopedic products lose their shape, they should be changed promptly,
You need to wear insoles constantly
From time to time they need to be removed from the shoes to dry.

Design differences between products

Warming insoles differ in their design. The following varieties can be distinguished:

Wireless. This option involves placing the heating element in the heel area. The duration of operation of the insoles depends on this localization. Some manufacturers equip products with a remote control to control the heating temperature and operating time. There are no power supplies on the outside. You need to select shoes carefully, as there will be a significant thickening in the heel area. The battery life usually does not exceed 3 years.
Wired. These heated shoe insoles operate evenly. Wires are required to connect the power supply. The thickness of shoe inserts does not exceed standard values. Since the batteries are changed, the device can last for many years. The heating element is placed under the toes, so these warm insoles can be adjusted to fit. Due to their greater functionality, the models are expensive.

Wireless

Wired

Insoles manufacturing process

Cutting out the insoles

The device is a multilayer insole, the lower part of which is a heating platform. For it we need thin thick cardboard. It should be able to withstand walking, so it's best to choose something more abrasion-resistant.

We take the template of our insole and mark the platform according to it. It should be approximately one size smaller than regular insoles. We process the edges of this insole platform with a hole punch along the entire perimeter. This will additionally secure the heating element and prevent it from slipping while walking.

Winding the heater winding

The intensity of the wire winding regulates the amount of heating of a specific zone of the insole heater, and it can be calculated individually. The author has marked the insole so that the maximum heat is on the toe, the average heat is on the heel area, and the lowest heat is in the middle of the foot. In accordance with the chosen scheme, we wind the turns of the heater winding, measuring the length of the wire to 10 m.

We mark the protective layers of the heater on plain paper according to the template and cut them out. We glue the heating platform on both sides with paper insoles using hot glue.

Don’t forget to bring the ends of both winding contacts out. We connect them with insulated wires, solder the connection and seal it with heat-shrinkable tubes.

We supplement the circuit with batteries with a power socket and a button

We connect the batteries by connecting them in parallel with soldered contacts. We glue the battery cases with electrical tape.

We solder the switch button with a diode and a power socket according to the diagram (photo 2). We place them on the battery case and hide them with several layers of electrical tape.

We insert the heating platform into the shoes and cover them with regular insoles. The author suggests hiding the battery housing between the laces and tongue of the sneakers.

Control measurements

As practice shows, the device is capable of producing pretty good performance. For a heating element that can warm up shoes without harming the foot or material, this is more than enough.

The heated insoles are ready, you can safely take them on hikes in the cold season without fear of freezing your feet and damaging your shoes.

Practical advice

The value of any invention lies in its long-term use, and for an insole heating element, thin cardboard and paper are not a very good basis. Chinese analogues based on copper foil also do not shine with durability, breaking at the folds due to constant bending.

This is due to the weak base and fragility of the heater.

These materials can be replaced with artificial leather, felt, lavsan, etc. And instead of copper wire, use nichrome or carbon thread for heated floors. Insulation of the heating element will also not hurt, and the batteries, the ability to adjust and turn off the heating, can be brought closer to your hands. In general, there is a lot to work on. Such homemade products are valuable for those who like to make things with their own hands. They can be remade, modified and changed at your discretion, based on the principle of the device. Otherwise, every home craftsman has a free path to creativity and his own discoveries.

Factory heaters

ThermaCell company offers insoles weighing 0.5 kg each for almost 16 thousand rubles. A strange price, because the same devices will be delivered through an online store much cheaper. It is not clear why the price is being increased. The insoles - for size 46 - only heat up for up to five hours. Then recharge the battery.

The WarmSpa kit has a budget price – through Yandex Market – 3750, on AliExpress – 1450 rubles. But with two batteries, for 3-6 hours of operation. There is a color heating indicator, convenient for adjusting the temperature. The downside is the thick insole - up to half a centimeter.

There are insoles on sale with replaceable batteries made in Russia - they cost about 1,200 rubles. Warms up your fingers well. Batteries can be changed without removing the insoles. Severe frost reduces the voltage and current of the batteries.

Blazewear insoles are heated by a pair of AA lithium batteries. The compartment with them is attached to the leg with Velcro.

Self-heating insoles from Heat Generator. Chemical heating - up to six hours. The elements are bio-ecological. The insoles are light and comfortable to wear in shoes. The cost is simply ridiculous - less than 300 rubles.

What are heated insoles for?

Forget about the eternal cold in winter! When going for a walk, fishing or hiking, you can simply insert heated insoles into your boots. During the day, they will warm your feet and help you forget about discomfort. Meanwhile, you don’t need such insoles if you wear high-quality shoes from a manufacturer that has been pleasing its customers with reliable products and flexible prices for many years.

There is a lot of information on the World Wide Web about insoles that protect your feet from the cold. The advantage of these new products is the use of special orthopedic instep supports, and some of them include a control panel.

How does a heated insole work?

The insole is equipped with a heating pad placed in the hollow part. For several hours it effectively protects your feet from the cold. The insole is made of polypropylene material, which retains the shape of the foot and evenly distributes heat. In stores today, there are two types of warming insoles: made of genuine leather and made of artificial suede. Its toe section has a perforated surface that helps keep your toes freely warm. The lower part is equipped with pressed channels that distribute warm air throughout the foot.

But not all heated insoles can clearly perform their functions: often the consumer pays for a low-quality product that does not at all meet his expectations. It turns out that the money is spent, but your feet continue to freeze. Therefore, in order not to make a mistake in choosing, let’s get acquainted with the TOP manufacturers of insoles for heated shoes and the characteristics of these products.

What to make a “stove” for feet from?

An insole or orthosis is inserted into a shoe for a number of functions. And more for medicinal purposes - for pain in the foot and joints due to arthrosis and injuries, correction. Not a word about the heat conservation function.

Only in the comments are there messages about how to make simply warm insoles - from felt, foil foam and construction insoles. We will offer ideas on how to make heated insoles. Anyone can cope with this task.

Below are step-by-step instructions on how to make insoles with your own hands. Let's show the example of insoles with autonomous heating from a mini-battery (battery) with adjustable temperature.

There are a number of factors to consider. First: choose insoles with a base that does not conduct heat well - so that they do not “sink” into the sole, but warm your feet. Insoles made of felt with a thickness of 0.5 centimeters are suitable according to their characteristics.

Second factor: experiments have shown that the area of the feet that freezes most in the cold is the toes. So they need to be heated, and the blood heated in them will insulate the rest.

And this will save on energy costs, because electric current is generated not by a powerful car battery, but by the one that powers smartphones and tablets. That is, the battery must fit in the pocket of a person whose feet are heated by the insoles. The best heated insoles on charge.

The heating element of the homemade device is a wire with a predominance of two types of metal - nickel and chromium. It, wound in a spiral for greater power, serves as a heating element for household electric stoves. For insoles, a wire ten times shorter (48 cm) and much thinner (0.3 mm) is sufficient. It can be taken from any non-working 300 watt heater. Sometimes you can buy it at an electrical store for 20 rubles.

Buy a voltage regulator from four volts and above in a Chinese store. If you don’t want to bother with homemade products, buy factory-made electric insoles with charging in the same market.

Main companies and brands of electric insoles for battery-powered shoes

There are many companies that produce this type of product. From Chinese, heated insoles from which you can order from AliExpress, to more serious developers producing reliable and high-quality devices.

ThermaCell heated insoles

Replaceable battery model

One of the most famous manufacturers of electrically heated insoles. The most famous are two types of insoles - with a built-in battery and with a replaceable one. Both types have a control panel with which you can set the mode or turn off the insoles altogether. A simpler option with a non-removable battery can be bought for 7,000 rubles, and an option with replaceable batteries will cost about 15,000 - 17,000 rubles. You can also purchase a car charger separately for 1,500 rubles.

Blazewear

Using the remote control you can warm your feet directly from your pocket

Blazewear has two main types of insoles. Some run on 3 AA batteries, which last for about 5 hours. The battery packs are placed on the leg using Velcro, which is not always convenient. This option costs 2000 rubles.

The second model involves the use of 3000 mAh lithium-polymer batteries. They should be enough for 4-7 hours of continuous operation. The kit also includes battery packs. Thus, by alternating between charged batteries and batteries, you can extend the operating time up to 11 hours. The inconvenience lies in attaching the blocks to the leg. Blazewear battery-powered heated insoles can be purchased for 5,000 rubles.

DiClime

Layer diagram in the DiClime model

DiClime sells one type of warm heated insoles for shoes, which can be purchased for 1,500 rubles. The device is powered by lithium polymer batteries. The maximum stated operating time is 8 hours. The battery is built-in and cannot be removed. The shape of the insole is made in such a way that it can be trimmed and adjusted to any shoe. The model has ambient air control, based on which the element is heated.

RedLaika

Naturally, products with the name RedLaika are red.

The brand specializes not only in insoles, but also in heated clothing in general. They have jackets, socks, pants, long johns, rugs and more. But we are interested in the insoles. In fact, the brand has only one model. It’s just that the starting equipment may be different. The simplest version of self-heating reusable insoles with blocks for AA batteries will cost 1000 rubles. Three batteries can power the insole in heating mode for up to 4 hours. A drawback may be the mechanism for attaching the battery pack to the leg.

The version with batteries included will cost much more - 6,000 rubles. The battery capacity is 2600 mAh; according to the developers, they should be enough for 5-21 hours of operation.

"Siberian"

Domestic insoles from Novosibirsk. The base price is 1500 rubles. The insoles are simple, with an external USB cable. Any compatible battery can be used. You can buy ready-made kits right away for 4,000 and 4,300 rubles. Both include a complete kit with a battery. However, the second one also has a special case for wearing on the belt.

Main types, structure and principle of operation

Warming insoles are classified according to the type of work:

chemical - heating occurs due to a chemical reaction;
electric - powered by batteries or accumulators.

Depending on the type of use, such products are either disposable or reusable.

Chemical

This type, as a rule, is a disposable product. The surface is heated as a result of a chemical reaction, which begins with removal from the original packaging and removal of the protective top layer. After this, the insole is placed in the shoes, and the heating process continues for 2-4 hours, after which it can be disposed of. The advantages of products of this type are versatility of use, as well as low cost. The disadvantages include: low heating temperature and limited operating time, as well as the possibility of injury to the skin if the seal is broken.

Disposable models of chemical type of action

Electrical

This type has a heating element that is powered by an electrical energy source. This can be a battery or several batteries that produce low voltage that is safe for humans. This type of insoles is a reusable product that has a number of advantages compared to chemical analogues:

possibility of temperature adjustment;
You can turn the heating off and on as needed.

Electric insoles for shoes are classified as:

Wireless.

This type of product can be equipped with a battery or batteries placed in the heel area. Insoles of this type require selection for specific shoes, because have a certain thickness necessary to accommodate the energy source. The usage period depends on the battery life.

Wireless electric insole design

Wired.

A distinctive feature of this type is the placement of the energy source outside the surface of the insoles. The battery or batteries are placed in a separate unit, attached to the leg or shoe. They are connected to a heating element located in the insole using connecting wires.

The thickness of products of this type is similar to the thickness of conventional insoles, so they can be used with any type of shoe without special adjustment. The ability to recharge the battery and replace batteries allows you to use models of this type for an almost unlimited time. Both types of electric shoe insoles are safe for humans and comfortable to use. Wired models have greater functionality and are more expensive, while wireless models cost less, but have fewer adjustments.

Wired electric insoles with power supply attached to the foot

Types of heated insoles

There are three types of “warm” insoles: rechargeable, battery-powered and chemical. The first two types have a heating element in their design and are divided into wired and wireless.

Wired

The insoles have an external battery and a heating element inside the structure itself. Even if this is your first time using such a thing, you will not notice any discomfort while wearing it; your leg will quickly get used to it.

The battery and the heating element are connected to each other by a 40-60 cm wire. The batteries themselves are attached to the shin, and the temperature mode is changed using the control panel. Despite the fact that the main element is located outside, there is no risk of injury. All live wires are hidden in a plastic, tightly closed box.

Wired insoles can work for a maximum of 12 hours, which is quite enough to spend the required amount of time in the cold or in cold water. You can make battery-powered heated insoles with your own hands, and they will turn out no worse than the purchased version.

Wireless

In such insoles, the batteries are placed inside the product, most often in the heel area. The heating element is located in the toes, because... They are the ones who start to freeze first. Specially selected materials allow heat to be retained inside the insole: artificial plastic and natural rubber.

If you prefer wireless heated insoles, then immediately select your size taking into account your height, because... It is not possible to “tailor” the product to suit you. The operating time of the insoles is also quite long - up to 11 hours, with 4 hours until fully charged. Some models are equipped with a remote control. This allows you to turn them off when you enter the room.

Chemical

Another type of heated insoles is chemical. Mostly produced disposable. Sold in hermetically sealed bags. To make them work, you need to shake or rub each insole with your palms after printing. This will start a chemical reaction. After the insoles begin to heat up, they are inserted into the shoes. There are models that can be glued to socks using self-adhesive tape located on one side.

Heating of the insole occurs due to the oxidation of iron. To avoid burns, manufacturers add sodium chloride and salt, which reduce the oxidation process. Some products also add sawdust or charcoal to eliminate odor and moisture.

Chemical insoles are designed to last 6-7 hours. They heat up no more than 45C. This is quite enough for a short walk.

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Heated insoles and remote control

Author: SSMix Published 09/21/2020 Created using KotoEd. Participant of the Competition “Congratulate the Cat as a Human 2022!”

The article describes a method for manufacturing (or upgrading purchased) heated insoles and adding them with radio control from a remote control.

The Aliexpress website has a large selection of heated shoe insoles, powered by both USB and batteries. The last option is more mobile, because allows you to keep your feet warm outside during the cold season. The batteries are placed in the pocket of bags that are attached to the ankles. The insoles are connected to the batteries using connectors. The cost of such insoles starts from a few dollars. These insoles were purchased at a sale in November 2022 for $13.57.

They were designed for a voltage of 3.7V; the kit included 2000mAh batteries and a power supply for charging them at 5V 1200mA. In fact, despite the significant price of $16.57 (before the sale), the item turned out to be ordinary Chinese bullshit. No, the insoles, of course, warmed up, though not very much and only in the middle part. In winter, when the temperature outside was zero, I stood in them at the bus station for 40 minutes waiting for the bus. The feeling is twofold. On the one hand, you seem to feel warm in your boots, but your fingers are cold, and you had to move somehow to avoid freezing. Having entered a crowded bus while standing, it is no longer possible to turn off the insoles; the battery charge is wasted, so upon arrival at the destination we have discharged batteries. They do not provide any protection against discharge. In any case, the controller board cannot be felt under the black shell. The tested battery capacity was 1720 and 1750 mAh. With a current consumption of about 0.6A, they should be enough for 2.8 hours. The insoles are glued together from two layers, between which there is white fabric stitched with high-resistance wire. The dimensions of such a “heater” are approximately 170x30mm. Here is a photo of these insoles from the Aliexpress website of one of the buyers in the reviews, taken with a thermal imager:

It can be seen that the promised 50°C is not there, and this is at +19°C. In mild frost of a few degrees, the heating from such insoles is practically not felt. The first modification of these insoles was the installation of buttons for operational heating control. So, since it is impossible to determine what state they are in by the position of the buttons, we had to rely on thermal sensations. At -2°C it was impossible to understand whether they were heating or not by clicking a button. The thrifty (or stingy?) Chinese have done something strange (scary?) with charging, which is not at all surprising to them. Knowing their tendency to be stingy, when many devices use a series-connected diode with a resistor as a charge controller for lithium batteries, and all this is connected to a 5-volt charging unit, resulting in a swollen battery after the first charge, this power supply was opened . A diagram was drawn from the printed circuit board:

As you can see, there is no trace of a charging controller - there is only a two-color LED indication of the load current, for which the Chinese did not spare an additional LM358 dual op-amp chip! Its two op-amps are used as comparators, comparing the reference voltage of about 25 mV from the resistive divider with the voltage drop across R9. The threshold for switching from red to green LED is 0.025 V / 0.2 Ω = 0.125A. There was still a glimmer of hope that the charging controller was hidden in the plug, but no, it called directly. There is nothing in the batteries themselves to the touch. When charging the batteries, they are connected in parallel to the 5V charger!!! When the battery is connected, the voltage at the charger output drops to 4.7V. Thanks to the very thin wiring on the batteries, the voltage becomes slightly less, but the final voltage will tend to 5V, instead of 4.2V. Maybe the Chinese invented some new charging cut-off circuit and built it into the battery itself? Hardly. Therefore, a charging module on the TP4056 was sealed into the charging cable gap.

The current in each module was set by resistor R3 at 0.5 A (resistance increased from 1.2 kOhm to 2.4 kOhm), because charging does not produce more than 1 A, and even then the output voltage drops from 5.3 to 4.1 V. The next modification affected the insoles themselves. The idea arose to add another heating element to the toe area in each insole. First, a scarf was made from thin fiberglass, onto which SMD resistors of size 0603 were sealed. Additional heaters were connected in parallel with the standard ones, but the idea was a fiasco. No, the heating increased, and the fingers were warm for some time, but since the board was bending during movement, the ceramic base of the SMD resistors could not stand it, it cracked and the resistor chains broke off one after another. Then, on the same Aliexpress, separate heating elements “made of carbon fiber” were ordered (from the same carbon fiber, according to the description, the insoles themselves should have been purchased earlier, but the Chinese can promise and write anything, for example, that the insoles have an “intelligent thermostat” ):

This product was made in a very primitive barn-handicraft way. On one side of the conductive material, two copper strips of foil are placed at the edges and the whole thing is laminated, having previously punched holes in the film for soldering the wires opposite the copper strips. The ohmic resistance of such a heater is not constant, it is about 7...8 Ohms and very much depends on the degree of pressure on the foil. Obviously, with such a manufacturing “technology”, contact with the conductive fiber leaves much to be desired. If in the initial state the current consumption of the heating plate from 4V was about 0.5 A, then when it was placed in the insole under the influence of a person’s weight, the pressure of the copper strip to the fiber became stronger and the current consumption increased to 1A! While moving, the current consumption varied within significant limits. One of the heaters was disassembled for modification to improve contact, but the conductive fiber delaminated and partially remained on both halves of the film. Therefore, the carbon fiber heating elements were left alone and it was decided to make an additional sock heater from high-resistance wire. But where is the easiest way to get it, and even one that can be easily soldered? From a wirewound resistor! For this, a 5-watt green wirewound resistor KNP (Royal) with a nominal value of 10 Ohms was used:

Having carefully scraped off the green sealant from one end, the end of the wire was found, by pulling on which the latter is easily wound up, after which it is cleaned of adhered particles of sealant. As a result, we have a piece of the desired high-resistance wire with a resistance of 10 Ohms, which is easily tinned and soldered. At a voltage of 4V, the power dissipation will be 4*4/10=1.6W. Next, this wire is laid on a sticky layer of tape in the shape of the toe of the insole, sealed on top with a second piece of tape, leaving solder pins on the outside, and as a result we have the following heater:

It is soldered parallel to the main one in the insole. We do the same with the second insole. As a result, we have reinforced insoles with a resistance of about 3.5 Ohms, and consuming a current of about 1-1.2 A from the battery. When making your own insoles, you buy the usual 2 pairs, make a heater using the technology described above for the entire area of the insoles, and place it between the insoles, or you can glue them. Now, regarding ease of use. On Aliexpress, there are insoles for sale with a radio remote control and even those with temperature control, their cost starts from $20:

There is a built-in battery inside, as a result, the thickness of the insole in the heel area is at least 12 mm, which is quite inconvenient and you cannot insert such an insole into every shoe. Moreover, putting all your weight on a delicate and flammable lithium battery is not psychologically comfortable. But the idea with the remote control is smart. The remote control can easily control the heating of the insoles even in crowded transport, as long as you can put your hand in your pocket with the remote control. On the same Aliexpress there are ready-made remote controls with receivers operating at frequencies of 315 and 433 MHz. Remote controls are usually assembled based on the PT2262 microcircuit, and the receiving part is based on PT2272:

There are also more advanced learning receiving modules that work with remote controls based on different microcircuits:

Their advantages include the receiving part, made on a quartz microcircuit without the use of inductors, which ensures good thermal stability and no need for adjustment. In order to miniaturize the design, the smallest four-channel trainable receiver module TYJM01A-K at a frequency of 433 MHz was selected, having overall dimensions of 18.8 × 14.8 × 5 mm:

The module has the following parameters (listed on the seller's website): - Operating voltage: 2 ~ 5.5 V - Operating current: 2.8mA (315 MHz) 3.5mA (433 MHz) - Modulation method: ASK/00 K - Receiver sensitivity:- 108 dBm - Data transfer rate: up to 10 kPB - I/O port drive capability: <= 20 mA - Operating temperature range: -40 ~ 85 degrees Celsius - Fixed code chips supported: EV1527, PT2262, HX2262, SC2260, SC5211 , HS2240, etc. - four operating modes: L4, T4, M4 and H4 - 4 outputs, LED learning indicator. The remote control was also chosen to be four-channel, teachable, small-sized with dimensions of 55 mm x 28 mm x 14 mm:

It was decided to use the 4 control buttons of the remote control as follows: A - heating at 1/3 power; B - heating at 2/3 power; D - heating at full power; C—off. To interface the receiver module with the insoles, a control board was developed on the ATtiny13A microcontroller (DD1) and a field-effect transistor switch IRLML6244 (VT2), which switches the power supply from the battery to the insoles:

Because The control board was supposed to be located on the ankle (in the sock), a vibration response to the execution of commands from the remote control was implemented: A - 1 short signal (heating at 1/3 power); B — 2 short signals (heating at 2/3 power); D — 3 short signals (heating at full power); C - 1 long beep (off). This way, unnoticed by others, you can understand which mode the device switches to. The vibration motor was used from a faulty mobile phone. Current consumption is about 100 mA. Control via VT1 IRLML6244. The microcontroller is also tasked with monitoring the battery voltage (divider R8, R9) and turning off the heating when it drops to 3 V. In this case, 1 long vibration signal is sent. The voltage from the battery is supplied to the power part of the circuit through a self-restoring fuse FU1 3A, 6V, since there was no hope that any protection was built into the battery. It was decided not to touch the PB5 (RESET) port of the microcontroller, because When activating the RSTDISBL fuse, the ability to quickly upload firmware via connector X1 would be lost. The button for training the receiver module is also connected through the same connector via the decoupling diode VD4. In operating mode and when programming the microcontroller, this diode is closed and does not affect the operation of the circuit. The remaining 2 free ports PB0 and PB1 are used to supply control signals from the TYJM01A-K receiving module. To do this, 4 control signals are encoded into 2 using resistors R5...R7 and a diode assembly VD1. Outputs D1 and D3 are connected to ports PB0 and PB1, respectively, through limiting resistors R5 and R7. The operating mode of the TYJM01A-K module is set to L4 (4 dependent channels with fixation), i.e. if one output is turned on, all others are turned off. Therefore, only one signal is always present at the module outputs (before the first command is given after turning on the power, all outputs are in the zero state). Signals D1 and D3 are fed directly to ports PB0 and PB1. The D2 signal supplies logic 1 to both ports at once through the VD1 diodes. Resistors R5 and R7 have a higher resistance compared to R6 and, despite the logical zeros on D1 and D3, high-level logical signals are present on PB0 and PB1. The D0 command is not used in the circuit, because when a signal appears on D0, a log appears on D1, D2 and D3. zeros, and logs also appear on ports PB0 and PB1. zeros. Below the diagram is a table of logical signals that explains the coding principle. LEDs HL1...HL4 of different colors help to visually assess the operating mode of the device, and also provide tangible assistance in the process of programming the TYJM01A-K receiving module. The programming process itself was kindly provided by the Chinese seller. Programming is carried out in two stages. The programming button must be connected between the VT and GND pins of the module. First, you need to write the fixed code of the radio control into the module. To do this, you need to briefly press the learning button, and within 6 seconds, press and hold any button on the remote control for at least 3 seconds until the learning LED on the module flashes 2 times. After 6 seconds, the learning mode is automatically exited. You can check the operation of the receiver module immediately by pressing 4 buttons on the remote control in turn. By default, the receiver module is enabled in M4 mode, i.e. Log.1 appears at the output of the corresponding channel only while the button on the remote control is pressed. To switch the receiver module to the required L4 mode (with fixation), you must press and hold the learning button for at least 0.5 seconds. After releasing the button, the indicator will blink 2 times. Now, within 6 seconds, you must enter the operating mode code by pressing the learning button the appropriate number of times. For L4 mode this is 4 times. Afterwards, you must press and hold the learning button again for at least 0.5 seconds. After releasing the button, the indicator will blink 2 times and the receiver module will go into L4 operating mode. To program the TYJM01A-K receiver module, it is not necessary to solder it into the circuit; you can solder the button and LEDs on the pin connector so as not to solder the module pads. In case of problems, you can open a dispute and get your money back. For installation of the insole control circuit, a single-sided printed circuit board was developed:

The dimensions of the board were 25x32 mm. The TYJM01A-K receiver module is soldered onto the board with pieces of wire. A piece of insulated wire is used as an antenna. The length does not play a decisive role, because... the distance from pocket to shoe is about 1 meter, and the sensitivity of the receiver is quite high.

List of elements for assembling 1 board:

C1 = 0.1 (0805) C2 = 10.0x10V (Tantalum body A) C3 = 1000pF (0805) C4 = 10.0x10V (Tantalum body A)

DD1 = ATtiny13A-SSUTR (SOIC-8)

FU1 = 3A, 6V (1206)

HL1 = Green (0603) HL2 = Yellow (0603) HL3 = Red (0603) HL4 = Orange (0603) HL5 = Red (0603)

M1 = Vibration motor

R1 = 47k (0603) R2 = 22k (0603) R3 = 47k (0603) R4 = 22k (0603) R5 = 47k (0603) R6 = 1k (0603) R7 = 47k (0603) R8 = 3M (0805) R9 = 1M (0805) R10 = 47k (0603) R11 = 560 (0603) R12 = 560 (0603) R13 = 22 (0805) R14 = 100 (MF-12) R15 = 560 (0805) R16 = 560 (0603) R17 = 22 (0603) R18 = 100k (1206) R19 = 47k (1206)

VD1 = BAW56 (SOT-23-3) VD2 = 1N4148 (0805) VD3 = BAT54C (SOT-23-3) VD4 = MBR0540 (SOD-123)

VT1 = IRLML6244 (SOT-23) VT2 = IRLML6244 (SOT-23)

X1 = NX 1.25-6 (1.25mm pitch) X2 = (DC plug 3.5×1.4)

Jumpers 1206 - 3 pcs.

The vibration motor is attached to the board using hot glue. After installation and testing of the circuit, the board is placed in a transparent (for visual inspection of LEDs) heat-shrinkable tube of a suitable diameter and heated to shrink it.

The program for the microcontroller was written in C language in the WinAVR-20100110 development environment. The microcontroller operates at a clock frequency of 128 kHz from an internal generator. MK fuses : CKDIV8=1 (internal frequency divider by 8 is turned off), CKSEL[1:0] = 11 (Internal 128 kHz Oscillator) SUT[1:0] = 10 (Slowly rising power) BODLEVEL[10]=10 (Ureset <1.8V) (“0” checkboxes are set) The heating power is adjusted by PWM modulation with a period of 3 seconds, i.e. in mode A: 1 sec heating, 2 seconds pause, in mode B: 2 sec heating, 1 second pause, in mode D heating is constant. The HL5 LED allows you to visually observe the operating mode of the heater. Tests of the device have shown the reliability of its operation and ease of use. Compared to the original Chinese version, it’s like switching from a Zaporozhets to a Mercedes. Heating appeared in the finger area. Using the remote control, you can set the desired operating mode at any time, even in crowded transport. To secure the batteries, the standard Chinese fabric fastener with an ankle pocket was not used due to its tight elastic band. Instead, a piece of single-core wire bent into a hook was attached to the battery with tape, and the battery itself was hung on the outer edge of the boot (it is still not visible under the trouser leg). The control board was placed under the top edge of the sock for tactile contact with the vibration motor.

In mode 2, the operating time from a single charge of a 2000 mAh battery was 1 hour 50 minutes. When fully heated - about 1 hour 10 minutes.

Files:

KNP (Royal) Board Source

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Main companies and brands of electric insoles for battery-powered shoes

Choosing a brand, especially more expensive models, is, of course, of paramount importance. If you do not plan to use the insole only a couple of times, then it is better to buy proven brands.

ThermaCell heated insoles

One of the most famous manufacturers of electrically heated insoles. Moreover, you will have a choice whether to take a pair with a replaceable battery or a built-in one. Both options are equipped with a remote control.

Replaceable battery model

A simpler option with a non-removable battery can be bought for 7,000 rubles, the second option with replaceable batteries will cost about 15,000-17,000 rubles.

"Blazewear"

Using the remote control you can warm your feet directly from your pocket

The second model involves the use of 3000 mAh lithium-polymer batteries. They should be enough for 4-7 hours of continuous operation. The disadvantage of such insoles is that the entire weight of the battery remains on the foot. Such heated insoles on the Blazewear battery can be bought for 5,000 rubles.

"DiClime"

Rechargeable insoles from DiClime have long been known to Russian customers for their affordable price and good quality. The battery version can be purchased for only 1,500 rubles. These insoles will last about 8 hours.

How to use DiClime insoles

"Red Laika"

A brand known for producing a whole line of heated clothing produces one type of insoles.

The simplest version of self-heating reusable insoles with blocks for AA batteries will cost 1000 rubles. Here again we see the main drawback of battery insoles - fastening on the leg.

Three batteries can power the insole in heating mode for up to 4 hours

"Siberian"

If you think that domestic manufacturers ignore such a fairly popular niche, you are wrong. Novosibirsk offers its solution. The base price of the domestic version of foot warmers is 1,500 rubles. Simple insoles are charged with a regular USB cable.

The simple design is justified by its great versatility

How to make at home

Making your own orthopedic structure is not difficult. But the effectiveness of the device is questionable. Diagnoses and the degree of violation of the relationship of the bone structures of the extremities are different. Even in one patient.

Incorrectly selected materials and unprofessional design can cause discomfort, pain when using orthoses, contribute to the appearance of corns, and aggravate the course of the pathology.

How to select and prepare material

The use of an orthopedic design implies prolonged contact of the foot with the insole. The material of the orthosis must meet the requirements:

naturalness;
hygiene;
must allow air to pass through;
ease of care and hygienic treatment.

Natural leather and cotton fabric have the necessary qualities. Experienced experts recommend using used leather products and thick denim. Finished devices can be made of cork or plastic.

You will need a small roll of cotton wool, a 3.5 cm wide bandage, and a medical adhesive plaster. Leather products must be hard, dense, free from abrasions, roughness, and bends.

How to measure your foot correctly

If suitable used insoles cannot be used to make orthoses, then a blank will have to be cut from the prepared material. You should first measure your feet.

Measurement technique:

Place your foot on a blank sheet of paper. Shift your body weight completely to this leg.
Outline the contours of the foot with a pencil. It is better if an assistant does this. If you plan to wear shoes with socks, measurements are taken with them on.
Measure the length at the extreme points - at the heel and big toe. This will be the length of the foot. If the second finger is longer than the thumb, measurements are taken from the second finger.

Step-by-step instruction

You can make orthopedic insoles with your own hands step by step:

Take a ready-made insole that is suitable in size for a specific pair of shoes.
Place your bare foot on the object and transfer your body weight to it.
Using a pencil, make a mark between the first and second finger.
Roll a ball out of cotton wool. The diameter of the finished product should be 10-15 mm.
Attach the ball to the insole using adhesive tape.
To make an instep support, you will need a roll of bandage 3.5 cm wide. It is placed under the arch of the foot, forming a kind of step to reduce the load on the limb. The location, thickness, shape is selected individually. The main thing is ease of use.
Secure the bandage with adhesive tape.
Cut the top from leather or thick cotton fabric. Sew onto the prepared structure.
For the second leg, we repeat the manipulations step by step.