DIY jewelry for beginners. Lesson 2: Limit switches

Today I want to tell you how you can make a universal switch yourself at home.

I suggest you watch the video of our craft first:

It happens that you need to check whether an electrical circuit is working or not, but there is not enough switch to check. In this article, I will tell you how you can make a universal switch yourself at home using improvised means. But, this switch can only be used with low-current energy sources (batteries, small accumulators, etc., this switch is not suitable for sockets).

We will be working with electricity, so be careful and practice safety when working with electricity.

So, for our universal switch we will need: - an old lipstick container; - two wires; — dielectric (we will use a soft rug that does not transmit electricity as a dielectric); - two metal nails with caps; - batteries and a light bulb (for checking the switch).

So, first you need to thoroughly clean, wash and dry the lipstick container.

Works. Now I will explain the principle of operation: when you connect the wires to the circuit and twist the bottom part of the container, there are two dielectrics with metal studs inside the container, and when you turn one part of the container, the two studs are connected to each other, the circuit is closed and the light bulb turns on.

A limit switch is an electrical device that is used in control systems as a sensor that generates a signal at the moment of mechanical contact of moving mechanisms. What device does it have, what is its operating principle and connection rules? More on this and more below.

How to convert car door switches to reed switches

Very often I had to change the door switches, some have them in the locks, some have them separately, but that’s not the point, I wanted to make it so that I could just set it and forget it. I decided to use reed switches, bought KEM-3 and also needed classic caps for 5 rubles, like these.

I put a heat shrink tube on this piston.

If the reed switch has three terminals (as in my case), then you need to bite off the one that has only one (we don’t need it), and leave the two terminals that are located next to each other.

Now we solder the wires.

Then I took the sealant, filled the piston itself with it and inserted the reed switch with the soldered wires there.

We wrap it with electrical tape, but I sealed the end itself with self-adhesive furniture plugs, heating them a little with a lighter, because they are made of vinyl.

I took the magnets out of an old Chinese belt case for a cell phone, there were exactly 4 of them. Then I took a drill, a 7 mm drill bit, decided on a place for the sensor and drilled it.

We lubricate the hole with sealant and insert our reed switch, and also coat the inside with sealant.

We connect the wires to the standard wires (it’s different for everyone, so there’s nothing special to write here)

We carry out the procedure on all doors

Here is the sealant inside the door

I glued the magnets for a second, they hold tightly)))

Tinted it to match the color.

I configured the reed switches with magnets in such a way that at the first click of the door it shows the open door.

Reed switches are designed for a current of 1 ampere, so they are suitable for this purpose. Operating temperature from -60 to +125*C, number of short circuits and openings 1,000,000.

It has been in use for two years now, and during this time there have been no complaints. So, maybe someone will decide to redo it for themselves. All the best.

Tags: Chinese single-phase (anchor from it) from a circular.

Comments 55

Centrifugal switch to turn off the starting capacitors when operating speed is reached.
Has anyone seen a wiring diagram for such an engine with a working and starting capacitor?

How many of these ketai motors have already been brought in for rewinding))) Some people “accidentally” broke off this plastic crap and had to be separately displayed on the button

And if it’s not difficult, you can go into more detail.

I have never seen such a system, but now universal power time relays are sold - they can create any on/off delays to control this winding over time (the time is set on them from fractions of seconds to hours). The truth is I'm afraid it costs an order of magnitude more than the engine. Time relay CT-MFD.21 modular multifunction. (7 functions) 12-240V AC/DC (7 time ranges 0.05s...100h) 2 pcs 1SVR500020R1100 ABB

Stands at the shopping mall at the gas station

When starting, the starting condenser turns on, and when the speed increases, the contact opens. Because of this thing, my engine would not start under load. There was not enough acceleration and the air conditioner turned off prematurely. This is a Chinese joke. Whatever I think. This is when the engine is connected to 220.

Yes, yes, it hums stupidly and doesn’t “eat”...

the thing is needed no other way

Thanks buddy, I took note that the engine would go nowhere without this wonderful mechanism, otherwise it would lose momentum. I looked on the net.

The centrifugal switch is used to disconnect the starting winding of the electric motor when the motor shaft reaches a speed of 1300 rpm after starting.

Who came to contact you?

No, I have a circular machine.

Hello everyone, in general, I was unable to remove the pulley using the old-fashioned method (knock it down with a sledgehammer). The skiff has cracked. I didn’t break it all the way, I’ll get to the workshops and take it off with a puller. I'll write back later. Thank you all for your active participation, I’m not saying goodbye.

Yes, and there was no capacitor; it served me like a sharpener for about 15 years.

In this motor, starting and acceleration are carried out by an additional starting winding. After overclocking it turns off. The compressors of household refrigerators operate on the same principle; there is also an additional starting winding, which is connected and disconnected by a current relay. Through the coil of this relay, power is supplied to the working winding of the motor. At the moment of starting and before the engine reaches operating speed, a large current flows through this winding, the relay at this current is pulled up and closes the power circuit of the starting winding, the engine accelerates, reaches operating mode, the operating current decreases, the current relay is released, breaks the contact and thereby turns off starting winding.

In the 60s they produced washing machines Belka, it was called so and it had such a motor. There were weights on the rotor and a contact after starting, they turned off the starting coil.

as already written - a centrifugal switch for the starting capacitor. They are very common on “single-phase” compressors. Instead of this garbage, there are also starting capacitors with a built-in time relay (they turn off with a delay).

Experienced electricians, where do you see the ANCHOR here? SHORT-CIRCUIT ROTOR, and ANCHOR - this is when there is a winding laid in slots and this winding is powered through current collection brushes to the commutator or rings. And the incomprehensible thing is a centrifugal switch for the starting capacitor.

This means that at rest the contact must be closed. Do I understand correctly?

You understand correctly, and it must remain closed until the engine reaches operating speed.

I’ve already thought about this, if we can’t revive it, we’ll glue a new 3-phase connector.

If the winding is intact, try to unload the switch contact with the starter coil, and let the starter turn on the capacitor. At start-up the current is high, so the contact burns out

I’ve already thought about this, if we can’t revive it, we’ll glue a new 3-phase connector.

How will this help you? My engine was mounted on a circular drive through a belt, but your axes are not aligned. (I understood correctly)

ahhh, just a shaft tail with a 1in1 bearing, like on a motor from a compressor

I did it on a winch (the engine shaft and the gearbox worm) through the UAZ cardan from the steering wheel.

We'll wait for tomorrow.

Yes, clean it and check it, but the thing is not reliable, it is better to install a three-phase connector or rewind this one to 3 phases.

Centrifugal switch. For the starting capacitor, at start-up and when the speed drops under load, connect the starting capacitor. The button may fail under variable load, such as a circular saw, and the motor will burn out.

This means disassembling everything that can be cleaned and checking the winding for presence (burnt out)

Centrifugal starting winding switch

They write correctly. In a standing position, the starting capacitor is connected to the winding; when the engine starts at a certain speed, under the influence of centrifugal forces, the weights displace some kind of crap (I don’t know the scientific name, sorry), which opens the contacts and only the working capacitor remains in the circuit. I see 3 reasons here: 1 - the contacts are burnt and the starter motor cannot start due to lack of contact; 2 - perhaps the replaced air conditioner (it happens) is not working; 3 - indeed, the anchor burned out. At work I have a very powerful magnet made from a transformer, so we check the inter-branch closure of the armature, and the ringing of the lamellas with a tester. What if you turn the engine by hand when starting? haven't you tried it? Where is he standing?

What anchor? The anchor is in commutator motors, here is the rotor. There's nothing to burn here. There is a winding in the stator, yes, it can burn out

They write correctly. In a standing position, the starting capacitor is connected to the winding; when the engine starts at a certain speed, under the influence of centrifugal forces, the weights displace some kind of crap (I don’t know the scientific name, sorry), which opens the contacts and only the working capacitor remains in the circuit. I see 3 reasons here: 1 - the contacts are burnt and the starter motor cannot start due to lack of contact; 2 - perhaps the replaced air conditioner (it happens) is not working; 3 - indeed, the anchor burned out. At work I have a very powerful magnet made from a transformer, so we check the inter-branch closure of the armature, and the ringing of the lamellas with a tester. What if you turn the engine by hand when starting? haven't you tried it? Where is he standing?

Of course, I tried to turn it, it makes a quarter (approximately) turn and stays there.

Source

Limit switches: types, device, principle of operation

Limit switches, or as they are also called, limit switches are used to connect an electrical circuit, for example, in electrical appliances and alarms. Also, these devices are used to monitor and control electrical equipment, which is systematically tested for mobility. The switch is mounted on the structure itself where it is necessary to control the movement of individual elements. To use a limit switch, you need to know what it is for, what types there are and how each individual version works. This is exactly what will be discussed next.

Advantages of contactless models

The main advantage of contactless switches is energy savings. Electricity is not wasted when there are no people in the room. The person does not need to be involved to turn the light on or off. Therefore, the use of such models is considered comfortable.

Technical simplicity is an advantage of standard contact switches, but there are some disadvantages:

  1. Small resource when applying maximum load. If the contacts open, a spark occurs, causing the switch to break. In the presence of direct current, a capacitor connected in parallel to the contacts will help eliminate the accident. If AC networks are present, you will need a refractory tungsten solder.
  2. The downside of the contact device is considered to be strong sensitivity to dust and dirt. This causes a disruption in the electrical circuit. Next, there is a decrease in the interaction of contacts, and as a result, overheating and breakdown.

A huge selection makes it possible to find an element to use in a particular case. If you need to implement touch control, a capacitive switch is suitable, but for use in dirty conditions it is better to choose an inductive option.

Switch design

This device contains the following components:

  • panel;
  • frame;
  • contacts;
  • head.

It is very important that the switch housing has good strength so that the device is stable and can withstand various mechanical influences on the housing. Manufacturers use aluminum-silicon alloy as the material, and some types of limit switches are made of durable plastic.

The design of the limit switches is discussed in detail in the video:

Varieties

It is important to know what types of limit switches there are, because without this knowledge it will be difficult to choose the right device. These switching devices are divided into several main types:

  1. Contactless. This device is triggered in the event of the approach of any metal or other object to which switching has been made in advance.
  2. Mechanical. They are triggered only by mechanical action on the wheel or lever. As a result, the contacts either close or open, thereby giving a control or warning signal.
  3. Magnetic. They are also called reed switches. Based on the name, you can understand that the device is triggered when a magnet approaches it at a certain distance.

Non-contact limit switches are more modern compared to mechanical ones. They work on a special transistor switch, which in the open position has a small resistance.

All contactless switches are divided into four groups:

  1. Inductive. The limit switch is activated when the sensor detects a metal object. At the moment metal is detected, the inductive reactance increases, due to this the current in the winding decreases, and thus the contacts in the circuit open. The range of these products is very large and varied, so you can easily choose the size you need.
  2. Capacitive, interact with the human body. When a person approaches the sensor, an electrical capacitance arises, thanks to which the multivibrator circuit installed inside the device is activated. The closer a person is, the lower the pulse frequency becomes, and the capacity becomes larger. The main function is performed by the plate, which is connected to the capacitor.
  3. Ultrasonic. Quartz sound emitting elements are used. When something appears within the range of the device, the amplitude of the sound signal changes, mostly this purity is inaudible to people.
  4. Optical switches have a special transistor and an infrared LED. When the LED beam is interrupted, the photocell closes.

The video below discusses some types of limit switches:

What to consider before purchasing?

You should purchase a wireless module in a specialized store, taking into account such product characteristics as:

  • type of light bulbs available for control;
  • dimensions and general appearance of the product (material from which the case is made, color scheme, shape and number of keys);
  • operating voltage range;
  • number of channels;
  • signal coverage radius;
  • maximum permissible load during operation;
  • rated current level;
  • factory equipment;
  • list of operating frequencies;
  • method of transmitting a command signal;
  • encoding (presence or absence);
  • type of power supply for the transmitter (generator, battery);
  • the period declared by the manufacturer for which the battery capacity is sufficient;
  • principle of mounting the device;
  • price.

Additionally, you need to find out from the seller what warranty period the manufacturer provides for the product and where the service centers are located. Complete information will help you make the right choice and purchase exactly the model that will satisfy the buyer’s requirements for the device in all respects.

Features of work

The limit switch has a certain operating principle, thanks to which it is started and driven. The switching device will operate the moment it connects to the restored limiter, at which point the power supply to the electrical equipment is stopped. It is very important that all elements of this device work reliably and correctly, carrying out all necessary commands. At the same time, everything must work flawlessly, regardless of the type, configuration of the device and the way it is connected. That is why the area of ​​application of the limit switch is in places of particular danger.

At the moment of contact of the moving mechanism with the limit switch device, it gives a signal. This will indicate that there is a danger in the electrical circuit. This device is a sensor equipped with an automatic shutdown system.

Safe use of stabilizer

When operating the device being analyzed, do not forget that its housing is not protected from moisture getting inside. It is prohibited to place any containers with liquids on it, even small ones. Do not treat the device with detergents or a wet cloth.

Contact of the stabilizer with metal objects is also unacceptable. Its ventilation openings must always be open. Otherwise, the stabilizer will overheat and fail.

If a refrigerator is connected to the device, then you cannot connect other devices to it without displaying the total power indicators. This can cause the stabilizer to be overloaded, which can cause it to break. If you need to connect several household appliances to one device, then it is better to buy several devices or calculate in advance the maximum required power of the stabilizer.

Application area

It is also necessary to know where limit switches are used. Each type of execution has its own specific purpose and is used in different fields of activity. However, according to their use they are divided into:

  1. Functional. They are responsible for regularly turning off or on the lighting, or some other electrical device. For example, such a device is located in the refrigerator. When the door opens, the mechanism turns on the light, and when it closes, it turns it off; this is one of the options for using a limit switch.
  2. Protective. They are installed in order to protect both the mechanism and workers from improper actions. For example, a miner's elevator will not begin to descend until the doors are closed, allowing people to use the elevator safely.

To summarize, the use of this device depends on the design and capabilities of the mechanism. Often, consumers do not know that they often have to use this mechanism in life:

  • in the automotive industry and in the automobile;
  • in household appliances and everyday life;
  • in furniture products;
  • in factories and manufacturing plants to carry out various tasks.

Limit switches are very practical and necessary devices. But to connect such devices, it is better to seek help from specialists. As has already become clear, these devices greatly simplify the use of many household items. We hope that the article provided was useful and interesting for you!

Advantages and disadvantages

Main advantages:

  • work with any electrical appliances or light sources;
  • the ability to turn on and off a household appliance or light from anywhere in the room;
  • no extra wires;
  • reliability and long service life;
  • noiselessness;
  • safety.

Flaws:

  • Modern sensors can recognize the sound that is needed to turn it on and off. The user needs to know exactly what signal the sensor will respond to.
  • The sensitivity area is limited. In a large room you will have to clap loudly or move closer to the sensor. If you increase the sensitivity, the sensor may falsely respond to similar sounds.

In a transistor housing

The switch in a transistor housing is placed in a plastic box with a degree of protection from dust and moisture ≥ IP30. Thanks to the use of printed circuit boards with an SMD element base, a piezoelectric sensor and a solid-state relay, the dimensions of a modern acoustic switch in a transistor housing do not exceed the dimensions of a matchbox.

Transistor devices are successfully localized in low-current networks (alarms, video surveillance, etc.).

Without housing

The use of a product without a housing is justified if the user intends to integrate the product into the housing of some electrical appliance. For example, it involves fixing a printed circuit board with components and an acoustic sensor under the air conditioner casing or in a fan stand. An open assembly is more compact and noticeably cheaper than a device in a case.

Switches and lamps "plug-socket"

A plug-socket switch is a removable electrical installation product in a plastic case with an input plug for connection to the network. The product is equipped with 1-3 output sockets for connecting floor lamps, sconces, complex household appliances, equipment, gadgets and other energy consumers. The product is an adapter on the path of electric current from a 220 V network to the load, equipped with a sound control board. The usual docking of a plug-socket switch allows you to connect a module with an acoustic sensor without electrical installation and installation work.

It’s very easy to insert 1–4 switches into the room’s fixed sockets and configure them for different consumers (or groups of consumers for devices with “double” or “tee” type outputs). For example, the 1st switch will connect and disconnect the power socket with 3 claps, the 2nd will operate with 4 claps, the 3rd will respond with 5 claps, the 4th will control 6 clapping hands.

The acoustic switch built into the “plug-socket” is triggered by clapping your hands thanks to selective filtering, highlighting characteristic sounds from background noise.

How to make a pass-through switch with your own hands?

If you have installed a lighting fixture in a long hallway and want it to turn off at both ends, you will need a special switch that switches the voltage supply from one pole to the other. The same principle can be used if you are going to power the lighting fixture at the entrance to the room and at the bed or near the desk.

Then you can turn off the general lighting while lying in bed or by turning on the desk lamp on your desk. The stumbling block to the implementation of this scheme is the relatively high cost of such an electrical device, and you will need two of them, so it is much more profitable to make a pass-through switch with your own hands.

Connection diagrams

Options for connecting the motor via a capacitor:

All these schemes are successfully used in the operation of asynchronous single-phase motors. Each case has its own advantages and disadvantages; we will consider each option in more detail.

Circuit with starting capacitor

The idea is that the capacitor is included in the circuit only at start-up; a start button is used, which opens the contacts after the rotor spins up, and by inertia it begins to rotate. The magnetic field of the main winding maintains rotation for a long time. Buttons with a group of contacts or relays are used as a short-term switch.

Since the circuit for short-term connection of a single-phase motor through a capacitor provides a button on a spring, which, when released, opens the contacts, this makes it possible to save money by making the starting winding wires thinner. To exclude an interturn short circuit, a thermal relay is used, which, when a critical temperature is reached, turns off the additional winding. In some designs, a centrifugal switch is installed, which opens the contacts when a certain rotation speed is reached.

Schemes and designs for adjusting the rotation speed and preventing overloads of the electric motor on the machine may be different. Sometimes a centrifugal switch is installed on the rotor shaft or on other elements rotating from it with a direct connection, or through a gearbox.

Under the influence of centrifugal forces, the load pulls back the springs with the contact plate, when the set rotation speed is reached, it closes the contacts, the relay switch de-energizes the engine or sends a signal to another control mechanism.

There are options when a thermal relay and a centrifugal switch are installed in the same structure. In this case, the thermal relay turns off the engine when exposed to a critical temperature or by the forces of the expanding weight of the centrifugal switch.

Due to the characteristics of an asynchronous motor, the capacitor in the additional coil circuit distorts the magnetic field lines, from round to elliptical, as a result of which power losses increase and efficiency decreases. Starting characteristics remain good.

Circuit with working capacitor

The difference between this circuit is that the capacitor does not turn off after start-up, and the secondary winding spins the rotor with pulses of its magnetic field throughout the entire operation. In this case, the power of the electric motor increases significantly; you can try to bring the shape of the electromagnetic field closer from an elliptical shape to a round one by selecting the capacitor capacitance. But in this case, the starting moment is longer and the starting currents are higher. The complexity of the circuit lies in the fact that the capacitance of the capacitor to equalize the magnetic field is selected taking into account current loads. If they change, then all the parameters will not be constant; to stabilize the shape of the magnetic field lines, you can install several capacitors with different capacities. If you turn on the appropriate capacitance when the load changes, this will improve performance, but significantly complicate the circuit and operation process.

Combined circuit with two capacitors

The best option for averaging operating characteristics is a circuit with two capacitors - starting and working.

Operating principle of a pass-through switch

Unlike the usual models of two- and one-key switches for turning on lighting, pass-through switches provide two on positions. To operate the circuit, two pass-through switches are used, with which you operate the lighting lamps.

A schematic diagram of the operation of such an electrical circuit is shown in the figure below:


Figure 1: operating principle of a pass-through switch

As you can see, in the diagram, the phase wire is connected from the electrical wiring to the switches, and the neutral wire is led directly to the lamp or other lighting equipment. If you trace the connection from the distribution box, the phase is supplied to the input of the first pass-through switch. Next, two independent wires connect the terminals A and B of the first device to the terminals of the same name of the second switch. From the output terminal of the second switch, the phase is supplied to the lamp output. The second terminal of the lamp is connected by the neutral wire.

Of course, the above connection diagram requires additional cable costs to connect the switches to each other, but its functionality more than justifies it. Due to its design features, such a switch does not break the circuit in any position, so it is more correct to call it a switch.

In everyday life, due to the use of such switches on staircase landings to disconnect flights from different points, they are also called marching switches.

If you decide to implement such a scheme at home or in the office, but do not want to overpay for a pass-through switch, it can also be made from a cheaper two-key device. Next, we will look at two techniques that will allow you to make a pass-through switch with your own hands.

How to connect a single-phase asynchronous motor through a capacitor?

At industrial facilities, there are no special problems with how to connect an electric motor; a three-phase network is supplied there. Asynchronous electric motors operate with three connected windings located around the perimeter of a cylindrical stator. A separate phase is switched on for each winding of the connected motor, the electric motor connection diagram ensures a phase shift of the alternating current, creates torque, and the motors rotate successfully.

In the case of living conditions in residential buildings in private houses and apartments, there are no three-phase electric lines; single-phase networks are laid, where the voltage is 220 volts. Therefore, a single-phase asynchronous motor is connected using a different circuit; a device with a starting winding is required.

Method number 1. Two-key switch

This method allows you to obtain pass-through switches from conventional two-key models. This is especially convenient if you don't want to spend time making complex changes to their design or don't have the appropriate tools.


Rice. 2. Two-key model of pass-through switch

To implement this model of a pass-through switch, you will need two two-key devices, connecting wires and a lighting source.

Once you have collected everything you need, follow these steps:

  1. Turn off the voltage on the panel using a circuit breaker - this will prevent electric shock during installation work. It will be more reliable if you simultaneously disconnect both the neutral and phase conductors for the corresponding lamp.
  2. Connect the first of the two-gang switches to the phase wire of the three-core cable. To do this, release the terminal on the switch and insert the core there. The core is clamped until reliable contact is obtained with minimal resistance to electric current.
  3. Also connect a wire to each of the output contacts. Next, lead them to the output contacts of the second two-key switch.
  4. From the input terminal of the second switch, take the wire to the lighting device.

If the lighting system is carried out as part of a major overhaul and replacement of all lamps and appliances in the house, then the walls are tapped for power distribution. Otherwise, you can get by with external installation in the cable channel. In case of a long distance between switching points, it is better to carry out wiring with a three-core cable. Since three wires are optimally used for intermediate connection of wires.

It should be noted that the above method works by simultaneously switching two keys at once, so each time you need to operate two buttons at once, moving them to opposite positions.

Otherwise, the logic of the circuit will be broken and next time you simply will not be able to turn off the light bulb. Therefore, if other household members may be negligent about such switches, it is better to redesign the device to a single-key version.

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Method number 2. Single key switch

If you undertake to convert a two-key switch into a single-key switch with a structural change in the position of the terminals, it is advisable to use two switches of the same type or at least similar in design and size. Be sure to pay attention to whether the design allows you to rotate the movable contact group of the switch so that in the first position they close one contact, and in the second the opposite one.

The procedure for manufacturing a pass-through switch with one key is as follows:

  1. Before carrying out installation work, be sure to turn off the power supply to the relevant section of the circuit. If you turn off only one circuit breaker, be sure to check the absence of voltage with an indicator.
  2. If you are going to remove the live breaker from the box, first remove the bezel and remove the clips. Then loosen the fastening points in the box and remove the core. Unscrew the connection wires and remove the switch from the lighting circuit.
  3. If you are using a new switch, you can skip the previous step. Then proceed immediately to dismantling the electrical contacts from the polymer or ceramic base.
  4. Using a screwdriver, disassemble the device, separate the metal plates - changeover contacts.


Rice. 3. Disassemble the switch

Depending on the design of the switch, you will need to unscrew the bolts, pull the springs out of the frame, or disengage the lock.

  • Fixed contacts are located on a ceramic or polymer base. Some of them will need to be rotated 180° so that when the key is switched, the second contact closes.


Rice. 4: Expand one of the contacts

But such manipulation is not possible on all switches; in some variations, you will have to modify the contacts - solder an additional bus to lengthen the lamellas. Therefore, each model needs to be understood in detail.

  • Install a jumper at the phase wire input to equalize the potential at both terminals.


Rice. 5: install jumper

  • Repeat the same procedure with the second switch to create two pass-through switches. Assemble all the elements in the reverse order, but instead of two keys, install one that, due to its dimensions, can move freely on the existing mount.
  • Place both switches in the boxes underneath them. From the output terminals of one, connect the wires to similar contacts of the other. Pairs of contacts must be connected by separate wires.

Before commissioning, it is advisable to check the quality of the closure when switching. To do this, test the circuit on both pairs of contacts - you should get almost zero resistance in both options.

Otherwise, the key of one of the pass-through switches does not fit tightly in a certain position, accordingly, the switch will need to be sorted out and the problem fixed. If you plan to lay wiring, it is important to use a three-core wire; it will be much more convenient to work with.

What does the market offer?

A wide range of wireless remote switches allows you to choose a product based on price, characteristics and appearance.
Below we consider just a few models that the market offers:

  • Fenon TM-75 is a remote-controlled switch made of plastic and designed for a voltage of 220 V. The features of the device include the presence of two channels, a 30-meter range, the presence of a remote control and a delay switch function. A group of lighting fixtures can be connected to each channel and controlled. The Fenon TM-75 wireless switch can be used with chandeliers, spotlights, LED and track lights, as well as other devices operating on 220 Volts.
  • Inted 220V is a wireless radio switch designed for wall mounting. It has one key and is installed in conjunction with the receiving unit. The operating voltage of the product is 220 Volts, and the range is 10-50 meters. The wireless light switch is attached using self-tapping screws or double-sided tape. The body is made of plastic.
  • INTED-1-CH is a light switch with remote control. With this model you can control light sources remotely. The power of the lamps can be up to 900 W, and the operating voltage of the product is 220 V. Using a radio switch, you can control the equipment, turn on and off the lights or alarms. The product is based on a receiver and transmitter. The latter has the form of a key fob, which is small in size and transmits a signal over a distance of up to 100 m. The product body is not protected from moisture, so additional protection must be provided when installing outdoors.
  • Wireless touch switch controlled via remote control. The product is mounted on the wall, has small dimensions and is made of tempered glass and PVC. The operating voltage is from 110 to 220V, and the rated power is up to 300 W. The package includes a switch, remote control and bolts for attaching the accessory. The average life cycle is 1000 clicks.
  • Inted 220V 2 Receiver - Wireless Light Switch for Wall Mounting. Control is carried out using two keys. The body is made of plastic. The operating voltage is 220 V. The number of independent channels is 2.
  • BAS-IP SH-74 is a wireless radio switch with two independent channels. Control is carried out using a mobile phone on the Android operating system. To work, you must install the BAS application. The SH-74 model is used to control incandescent lamps with a power of up to 500 W, as well as fluorescent light bulbs (power limit - 200 W).
  • Feron TM72 is a wireless switch that controls lighting at a distance of up to 30 meters. The light sources are combined into a receiving unit, and switching on and off is done using the remote control. The TM72 model has two channels, each of which can be connected to a specific group of devices. The product has a large power reserve per channel (up to 1 kW), which allows you to connect different types of light sources. The big advantage of the model is the presence of a delay ranging from 10 to 60 seconds.
  • Wireless 3-channel switch 220V Smartbuy is designed for connecting light sources into three channels with a power limit of up to 280 W. The rated supply voltage is 220 V. Control is carried out from the remote control, which has a range of 30 meters.
  • Z-Wave CH-408 is a wall-type radio switch that allows you to program various scenarios for controlling lighting devices. If necessary, up to eight switches can be connected to it. Among the additional features, it is worth highlighting the management of Z-Wave devices (up to 80) and ease of configuration regardless of the main controller. The device is powered by two batteries, and when they are low, a corresponding signal is given. Firmware updates are performed via the Z-Wave network. The maximum distance to the controller should not exceed 75 meters. Protection class - IP-30.
  • Feron TM-76 is a wireless light switch that is controlled remotely using a radio signal. The receiver connects to light sources, and the remote control controls the receiving unit at a distance of up to 30 meters. The Feron TM-76 model has three independent channels, each of which can be connected to its own group of lighting fixtures. In this case, control will be carried out separately, using the remote control. The maximum power reserve is up to 1 kW, which allows you to connect various types of lamps (including incandescent). The operating voltage is 220 V.
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