How to make a doll: manufacturing technology, patterns and step-by-step sewing instructions. 85 photos of the best ideas

• July 15, 2019
• Needlework
• Denis Dmitriev

This type of needlework interests people from all over the world. Craftswomen from Europe and Asia equally ask about how to make a BJD doll. The name of the products comes from the English BJD (ball jointed doll). Translated, this phrase means “ball-jointed doll.” Particularly popular is due to the fact that, thanks to the mechanisms connecting various parts of the body, the final result very much resembles a real person. The doll can take any pose due to the fact that springs, cords or rubber cords are used in certain places.

Salt dough doll

Salt dough is a universal material for beginning craftsmen. Products made from this material are most often used as training crafts in clubs and creative houses. There are a lot of recipes for making dough, you just need to choose one. Instructions on how to make a doll with your own hands:

1. In a container, mix water, salt and flour in the recommended proportions.
2. Mix the working mass thoroughly.
3. Wrap the cutting board in cling film.
4. Place a piece of dough on the board and then sculpt a doll figurine from it.

After drying, the finished craft can be decorated at your discretion: original Slavic girls, Disney cartoon characters, individual projects.

Required tools and materials

In order to start making crafts, you should prepare:

• scraps of flesh-colored fabric to create the torso and head;
• multi-colored material for clothing;
• paper;
• sewing needles;
• tailor's and small scissors;
• threads Reinforced threads are used to tie the body;
• patterns of dolls and clothing parts;
• stuffing material;
• pins;
• glue "Moment";
• tweezers and sushi chopsticks for turning parts out;
• acrylic paints;
• decorative elements;
• felt-tip pens or markers.

If you have to do work from natural materials, then stock up on straw, birch bark or wood. They think in advance about what the hair and eyes will be made of.

Advantages of homemade dolls

Do-it-yourself dolls have an undoubted advantage over production models:

1. The craftsmen themselves determine the size, shape, style of clothing and material of manufacture. It is not at all necessary to strictly follow the author's project. There is always room for creative deviation from the ideal.
2. Making interior dolls with your own hands will bring joy to both children and adults, especially when working together.
3. Miniature work is a great way to relieve stress and fatigue after a hard day at work.
4. A wide variety of models: from homemade fabric dolls, made with your own hands (with patterns), to exclusive author's ideas.
5. A huge selection of step-by-step instructions, video lessons, master classes and training courses for beginners.

All materials and tools are not only available at reasonable prices in craft and creative stores, but are also sure to be at hand for every thrifty housewife. Projects for making rag dolls with your own hands can be found in the public domain.

Schemes and descriptions of crocheting amigurumi dolls

Making crocheted amigurumi toys is not difficult; diagrams and descriptions can be easily downloaded. And detailed video tutorials on crocheting amigurumi dolls can be easily found on the Katkarmela Handmade YouTube channel. Here you can watch a free MK video of making a bear, unicorn, elf, angel and other toys.

There are many interesting master classes for beginners and experienced craftswomen on the channels of Elena Belova, Nina Tarasova, Yulia Tkacheva, Svetlana Vysotskaya.

There are interesting groups dedicated to amigurumi knitting on the VKontakte social network - the Foxy group.

Yo-yo doll

The author of the idea of ​​knitting cool yo-yo dolls is Marina Zakharova. The baby doll is about 16 cm high. As you knit, you need to fill the toy with synthetic padding or other suitable filling.

The model is simple to implement. Amigurumi is crocheted according to the following pattern:

1. Separately knit two parts (legs).
2. The knitted parts are connected together and the body continues to be knitted.
3. Change the thread to light pink or beige and knit the head.
4. Separately knit two parts of the handles and sew them to the body.
5. They knit a hat and scarf and put on a baby doll.
6. Sew on the eyes.

Additionally, the doll can be decorated with buttons, beads, bows as desired.

Pirozhenka

This is the author's model of Lyudmila Zhuravleva. Knitted from threads of three colors - beige (head and hands), colored (overalls) and white (hat, lace on the overalls).

Knitting stages:

1. Two legs are knitted and joined together.
2. Handles are knitted separately with threads of two colors (hands and sleeves), without covering the upper loops.
3. They begin to knit the body as an extension of the legs.
4. Before starting to knit the head, attach the already knitted hands, change the color of the thread, and knit the head.

Read

Filet crochet for beginners from A to Z

The last stage is knitting a hat and decorating the Pirozhenka doll.

Barbie

Knitting a Barbie doll requires experience. This is a rather difficult toy to make, since it is necessary to knit an anatomically correct body. A rigid frame is used to give shape. Another difficult point is the face. It is necessary to form a relief, embroider eyebrows, eyes, lips.

Barbie needs to attach her hair. They can be made from yarn or you can buy special hair for dolls in craft departments.

You can pair a Barbie with a boy doll. Clothes for these characters are knitted separately.

Stesha

Stesha is a designer doll by Tatyana Kostochenkova. Model height 27 cm with holofiber filling. Doll tresses were used to make the hair. The hat and shoes are not removable. The separately knitted vest can be removed.

Stesha's scheme.

Ballerina

There are many options for making amigurumi Ballerina (ballerina). There are relatively simple descriptions for beginners, and there are complex schemes that require great skill.

Martina

The author of the toy is Sandrine Campana. Schemes and descriptions of crocheted amigurumi dolls were published in foreign magazines. Martina's size is 28 cm, she is knitted from 100% cotton. The hat and clothes are removable, the shoes are not.

Original description with step-by-step photos: Martina doll

Alenka

Alenka is a character from the popular cartoon “Fairytale Patrol”. A free video tutorial on knitting a doll is available on YouTube.

Japanese

Traditional Japanese kokeshi or kokeshi dolls were made from wood, but are now made from a variety of materials, including crocheted ones. There are many patterns for knitting Japanese dolls, but mostly in foreign languages.

Types of dolls for home decoration

There are five types of textile dolls that are created by needlewomen to decorate home interiors:

• A doll in the anime tradition
  . These dolls are made in the style of Asian cartoon characters. As a rule, their head is larger than their body, and their legs and arms are miniature in size. The creator of anime dolls is an artist from Scotland - Susan Woolcott.
• A doll with a pumpkin head. The distinctive features of this doll are the head, which is shaped like a pumpkin, a convex chin and nose.
• Tilda doll. One of the most popular types of interior dolls. Everyone has seen Tilda at least once in their life. The proportions of her body are out of the ordinary; she has long thin legs and arms, an elongated head, which seems to serve as an extension of her neck. Tilda has no mouth, but she has beady eyes and pink cheeks. Interior doll
• Korean Barbie. These dolls have a beautiful body shape. Their luxurious look in an elegant outfit is always accompanied by accessories in the form of handbags, umbrellas, and hats. Masters create the faces of these Korean beauties using acrylic paints.
• Snowball doll. Doll from Russian designer Tatyana Konne. Characteristic features of Snezka are massive feet on which the doll can stand without support, as well as eyes made of beads. Creating shoes and clothes for such a doll is a separate form of art.

Connecting all the parts

Re-upholstery is the final process, after which the doll is considered almost ready. Holes are drilled in all joints. A special rubber cord is attached to a hook in the neck region, which then passes through the shoulders and arms. This tourniquet is secured in both wrists. For the lower extremities, a different cord is used, running from the ankles to the neck.

After installing the harnesses, you just need to pull all the parts, finding the optimal equilibrium state of each element of the doll. A wire or cord is passed through all the holes in the form of a loop. Fastening must be done on previously installed hooks. The elastic band should not sag, otherwise the product will not be stable.

Where to begin

In order to better understand the process of creating your own masterpiece, it is useful to read articles on how to make a doll with your own hands for beginning needlewomen. Working with small parts creates some difficulties.

Making a beauty and sewing clothes for her is no easier than doing it for an adult. It takes a lot of time and perseverance

To implement an idea, it is important to imagine the image of the future creation in advance and choose the right material.

The creation of each type of product requires special equipment. The necessary elements and accessories for the future craft are selected depending on the ideas of the doll maker.

Working with the head and neck

The first procedure in this area is eye placement. The previously assembled head must be cut into two equal halves. Afterwards, a hole of the desired shape is made using a chisel. In order for the eyes to be securely fixed on the inside, it is necessary to use a hardening mass with sawdust, prepared at the very beginning. Next, the joints of the two halves of the head are impregnated with the stoneclay mixture, after which their final connection is made.

As for the neck of the BJD doll, you can cut it out of the same polystyrene foam with your own hands. At this moment, you should draw all the facial elements and make ears from stoneclay. Balance in this area can be achieved by releasing the armholes and then inserting the head into the upper one. At this point, work with the doll’s face and head can be considered almost complete.

Rules for making dolls with your own hands

For many craftswomen, this activity has become not just a hobby, but a source of income. This is because lately handmade items have been especially highly valued, and many are trying to buy handmade items for gifts or for home decor. But in order to create truly worthy toys and souvenirs, you need to adhere to several rules and have a good knowledge of the technique of doing the work.

In order to make a doll with your own hands, you need to select the appropriate material. You can use yarn, fabric scraps, felt, old socks, plastic, wire, etc. Very interesting versions of dolls are obtained using the modeling technique. They may consist partially or entirely of clay, cold porcelain and even plasticine. One of the important conditions for creating a beautiful and high-quality doll is the right attitude of the master.

General design

The construction of a factory or professional custom BJD will not differ much from the handmade work of a beginner. However, without proper practice, the first products will most likely come out less aesthetically pleasing and balanced. The design involves sequential articulation and pulling of different parts of the doll’s body with rubber bands. The quality of the connection determines whether the product will hold the desired shape and maintain a certain position.

To make a BJD doll with your own hands, you need to imagine the general diagram of the joints. For example, a tourniquet supporting the arms is threaded through the chest, and each leg has its own separate tourniquet. The lower limbs are connected to the neck through the body. The wrists, neck and ankles have harnesses that are hung on a hook in the shape of the letter S. The point of a well-made harness is so that the doll can stand level on the surface without any support.

Amulet doll

Do-it-yourself fabric amulets dolls have their own characteristic differences.

Each of our ancestors had a doll in their everyday life, which was cherished and passed on from generation to generation, as a symbol, a mediator between the future, present and past. The amulet doll has its own characteristics:

• A shirt and a skirt are mandatory attributes of the product.
• There are no eyes, no nose, no mouth on the doll's face. Instead, a thread is wrapped around her face.
• It is also noteworthy that each part of the body, each accessory is not sewn on, but is wound with threads crosswise.
• It is necessary to make a doll only in a good mood and good spirits, so that the product retains its ancient properties.

Handmade dolls are an original, unique accessory that will be an excellent interior decoration, a favorite toy, a wonderful gift that personifies warmth, love and kindness.

Rules for creating amulet dolls

When making amulets dolls, you should follow the following rules:

1. Start work in a good mood. Remember that the doll absorbs part of the energy of the craftswoman, so you should not start working on the doll in a state of irritation, fatigue or illness.
2. There should be no men or grown-up boys near the craftswoman. An exception may be young boys, but they should not distract the craftswoman.
3. Create a doll not on the table, but on your lap. Cover yourself with a scarf to prevent hair from accidentally getting into the doll.
4. Do not touch the doll with sharp objects (scissors, knives, needles) or glue. Clothes should be sewn separately and then put on the doll.
5. Try to make the doll before you go to bed.
6. Use natural materials without dyes to create a doll. This can be cotton and linen fabrics, matting, threads, ropes, ribbons, straw, etc.
7. Finished dolls cannot be washed or thrown in the trash. If you need to get rid of a doll, it should be burned, buried in the ground, and floated down the river.
8. The very first doll should be made for yourself and left in your home.

How to sew an interior doll

Making interior dolls is possible for all beginners. It is possible to sew a full-fledged doll the first time, albeit with errors and flaws. In online resources you can find a number of master classes and training videos on this topic. Let's take a quick look at what steps and in what order to take when sewing a doll:

1. The fabric with the patterns is folded in half, and then stitched on a sewing machine along the contours of the parts that were drawn with a marker or chalk on this fabric. After the parts are stitched, they are cut out and turned right side out. In order for them to take on a clear shape along the stitched contours, they must be ironed.
2. After this, the parts are stuffed with filler and stitched together. The parts are sewn together using a hand-blind stitch; this is very painstaking work.
3. The last, creative stage of work. On it, the doll is decorated, acquires eyes, rosy cheeks, hair, and clothes. To create an outfit for a doll, you can watch master classes presented online. The most difficult decorative detail is the hair. They are made by hand from threads, wool, artificial or natural curls.

A gift such as an interior doll will always be of great value, since the scarcest resource in our world is time, and a gift that you spend your time creating, filling it with creative energy and love, is an expression of your special relationship with another person .

See also:

How to work with polymer clay

Choosing fabric for an interior doll

In order for the craft to have a beautiful and original look, you should carefully select the appropriate fabric for it.

High-quality material will allow you to avoid many inconveniences caused by the fabric crumbling or stretching on cuts.

So, it is best to choose the following textiles:

• Cotton fabric is the best fabric option for a toy. It contains synthetic threads that guarantee good tension, improve the processing of the material and make it less wrinkled.
• Stretch gabardine is in demand among craftswomen due to its combined composition (similar to cotton fabric).
• Nylon - great for creating the arms, legs and face of a doll. This material fits the base well, provides a suitable color, and even allows you to give the product the desired shape (for example, to create certain facial features).

Usually, flesh-colored fabric is used for sewing toys. If necessary, white fabric can be tinted with coffee or tea. To do this, you need to use strained liquid so that there are no dots or crumbs left on the material.

Textile doll pattern

A big advantage when creating an interior doll will be knowledge of basic cutting skills; in this case, you can create your own patterns. If you don’t have such experience, then this is not a problem at all, because any business can be learned. Beginning needlewomen can take samples from the Internet or specialized magazines. Interior doll

Natural elastic fabrics are used to make textile dolls. Typically knitted fiber. It is also possible to use synthetics, for example, nylon. Fill the doll with padding polyester. Before starting the pattern, it is necessary to give the fabric the proper appearance. First, it is ironed to get rid of bruises, and then the contours of future parts are drawn using a special marker.

Patterns

What materials will be needed?

Handmade dolls can be of completely different types: for games, for rituals, for interior decoration, for puppet theater and so on.

In most cases, fabric and decorative materials are used to make dolls. So, the work must begin with the selection of materials:

• Schemes, drawings, patterns.
• Fabric of different textures and colors.
• Material for stuffing toys.
• Scraps of leather, felt, flooring for dolls' shoes.
• Strong threads of different colors.
• Fabric paints.
• Scissors, stationery knife.
• Set of needles and pins.
• Elements for decorating products - rhinestones, buttons, beads and so on.
• Sewing machine.

Paper doll world

Paper dolls were popular in Soviet childhood. It did not require much material or time to create. Even kids in kindergarten successfully coped with this task. The work requires scissors, glue, paper, cardboard, markers, colored pencils and a lot of imagination. An important advantage of such a toy is the ability to quickly update your wardrobe.

Before making a paper doll, choose your favorite character, depicted in full size. Next, a sheet of white paper is placed on it and outlined. The resulting figure is painted, cut out, and pasted onto cardboard. The process of creating clothes is more creative.

To do this, they independently draw and cut out different types of clothes from paper. A fluffy skirt made of 8 circles of colored paper of the same diameter, which are folded in half 2 times and glued together, allows the paper princess to stand. Often clothes were cut from ready-made blanks. Information on how to make a paper doll can be found on the Internet.

Of particular interest in creating paper products is the approach of the New Year, when you want to decorate the interior in an unusual way. Making crafts on the eve of the New Year's beauties holiday is a useful, exciting and budget-friendly activity for the family. The basis remains the same paper version of the body for which festive clothes are created. To create a beautiful airy outfit, you can use corrugated paper.

Necessary materials and tools for making a doll

You can make a doll with your own hands from many materials, but the most common of them is fabric. This is a universal material that everyone has in their home and is easy to find in stores. Different types of fabric have different properties, so it’s always easy to make a textile doll for every taste and color. Also, textile toys are very practical, easy to care for, and they do not lose their properties over time. That is why now we will look at how to make a doll with your own hands using fabric.

To make a textile doll, you will need as many materials as you want to use, because it all depends on the idea. To create such a doll you may need the following materials and tools:

• fabric of various types and colors;
• scissors;
• multi-colored threads;
• needles;
• yarn;
• patterns;
• filler, for example, cotton wool or synthetic winterizer;
• safety pins;
• pencil, pen or felt-tip pen;
• tassels;
• acrylic paints;
• floss threads;
• iron;
• wool or fur;
• various decorative elements and anything else that you want to use.

Reflections: how to make an analogue of a doll

It happens that some doll catches your eye very much - but for some reason you immediately understand that you won’t buy one for yourself. And it’s not even about money, you can earn it if you really want it - but for other reasons. This is what happened to me too. A couple of months ago a friend’s feed brought me this handsome guy:

I liked the guy so much that I even found and watched the series on which this doll was made - Code Geass. It turns out that last year he celebrated his tenth anniversary, and by this date Smart Doll announced a limited edition of character dolls, but so far only the first of the three promised has been released (the other two have only appeared at exhibitions and a couple of promotional photos).

It seems like what to expect, run and buy! But... this turned out to be just the case when buying a doll does not come down to a financial issue. Because: a) this is last year’s limit, and by the time I found out about it, it was already hopelessly listed as Out of stock. b) the mobility of dolls is very important to me, but smartdolls have limited mobility, especially in the knees (they bend only 90°, and this is the principled position of their manufacturer - Danny Chu believes that increasing mobility will harm the aesthetics of the joint). Although I really like this type of design - with an articulated skeleton - much more than a BJD. and c) the point that turned out to be the most significant - size. Sold-outs are caught in the secondary, you can put up with limited mobility, but unfortunately, nothing can be done about the fact that 60 cm is completely not my format. I have the entire collection of 1/6 and 1/12, with the exception of one author 1/4, and this guy absolutely did not fit into my doll company.

And it would seem that I should continue to sit, contemplate pictures on the Internet and sigh. But hopelessness is not our choice. And so the thought occurred to me: what if I try to assemble an analogue of this doll, but in a format more suitable for me?

Three companies make 1/6 dolls with this distinctly anime-like appearance: Volks, Obitsu/Parabox and Azone. But for maximum resemblance to the original, I need a head with inset eyes, so Azon immediately disappears (they have 1/6 heads only for decals), Volks, after some reflection, too (they only have one such head, and the mold is not at all what is needed ). What remains is obitsu. In addition, obitsa is the most affordable option; you don’t have to bother ordering it from Japan: there is an online store called Dolls Hobby, which regularly brings all this to Russia. Of the heads presented on the store’s website, the Hansel mold seemed to me to be the closest to the design. It is there in three versions, two of them with painting, and one of the painting options is even close to what I want to get:

I have come across dolls made on this mold online, and the result seems quite close to what I wanted:

However, the store owner recommended that I take another mold, namely Kai, and correct the difference in the mouth line with makeup. Indeed, this mold has a more triangular face and a nose shape closer to the original:

I’m still leaning towards Hansel’s version, but I have some doubts. What do you think from the outside?

Apparently, I will have to order the wig and eyes somewhere separately, because there are neither purple eyes of the required size nor a wig of the required type on the site. There is just a short black wig, but I doubt that in this size it will be possible to style it properly, with such sharp strands: after all, synthetic hair is quite stiff. So I’ll try to look for a master who will undertake to do it on such a scale. Or maybe I’ll get around to making it myself - after all, it’s been in my plans for a long time to learn how to make various puppets

Well, the last question is the body. And here I once again come across the eternal question “azon or obitsu”: obitsu is undoubtedly the leader in mobility, while azon is in aesthetics.

On the other hand, in my opinion, Obitsu’s body suits the character better: the shape of the Azon seems too childish to me, and the character is already 18. But these weird hinges... however, I have a few ideas for improvement and modification, but there are still more needs to be tested for feasibility.

I also came across a photo of Xinyi’s body next to Obitsu online. It is not inferior in mobility to the Obitsa, and does not look as robotic, so perhaps it makes sense to think about it (although it can only be found on Ali, and I have never ordered from there and I don’t even know how it’s done). What confuses me so far is that it is quite athletic, more than I need: the character the doll is based on is a completely unathletic guy with a “body subtraction” type of physique.

In general, obitsu has a beautiful 24 cm body - with a frame in a vinyl body, normal knees and generally similar to a person, and not a robot. But so far it is the only one of its kind, and besides, it is female. If only someone had a similar man’s 27-30 cm, there wouldn’t be a question of choice at all! But you have to make do with what you have and hope that the situation will change over time. In the meantime, alas, neither Obitsa nor Azon can withstand comparison with the smartdoll’s own body, and my mini version will not be able to pose like this in an unbuttoned shirt:

However, this still does not diminish the desire to acquire it.

buy a jointed doll, not BJD, in our Shopik

Tilda: master class for beginners

The step-by-step process is not as complicated as it may seem. But you should be careful when performing each step:

Cut out the details of the body.

It is important to place all the details of the template on the fabric in the same direction, then the doll’s limbs will be the same and will not stretch. Don't forget about 5mm seam allowances

Don't forget about 5mm seam allowances

Sewing parts.

All pattern elements are paired. They need to be folded together with the right side inward and sewn together, leaving small holes for stuffing uncovered. Leave the body blank unstitched along the bottom edge.

Incisions.

Before turning the finished parts inside out at the folds, be sure to cut off the excess fabric remaining from the seam allowances as close to the stitching as possible.

The stitched parts turn out flat and need to be stuffed

Turn the torso and limbs out carefully so as not to pierce the fabric, using a pencil or other convenient object in narrow places. Padding

Padding.

Fill all parts with synthetic down or any other filler with a loose structure. In this case, the legs are stuffed only up to the knee level, a horizontal stitch is sewn, forming a fold, and only then the filling of the workpiece is completed.

Sweeping of the torso and limbs.

Fold the lower edge of the body inward and sweep it, while sewing in the doll’s legs. The side seams should match and the legs should be the same length. Baste hands with a hidden seam.

Sewing an outfit.

Cut out all parts of the dress or suit, placing them on the fabric in one direction, and sew them according to the principle of ordinary clothing. The exception is models in which part of the outfit is initially connected to the body like a swimsuit or combination. In this case, all that remains is to make only the missing parts - sleeves, skirt or pants, etc. - and connect them to Tilda with hidden seams.

Tilda's outfit consists of many items of clothing and accessories

Creating a hairstyle.

You can style Tilda's hair in various ways: make a loose ponytail, braid it in one or two braids, curl it, leaving it loose.

In any case, the hair needs to be attached to the head, sewn along the central parting, and then give free rein to your imagination. Stitches can be hidden with a hat, wreath, scarf or headdress.

This is what creating a hairstyle looks like

Giving expression to the face.

Usually this step comes down to sewing on beady eyes. You can also lightly tint Tilda’s cheeks with acrylic paints diluted in water or regular blush.

Additional details.

Decorate the doll with ribbons, lace, buttons and beads. If you are sewing an angel figurine, then at one of the last stages you need to make the wings and sew them to the back of Tilda. If desired, attach a loop here by which you can hang the toy so that it floats in the air.

Toys-angels using the Tilda technique

Making accessories.

Here, depending on the idea, you should twist glasses from wire, weave a beaded bouquet, or sew a miniature handbag.

When connecting all the parts of the doll and her outfit, it is recommended to first pin them together and only then sew them together. This will allow you to see possible errors in time and correct them.

Tilda gives the room a special coziness

The finished Tilda will be an excellent addition to almost any interior and a wonderful gift for all occasions. Using the recommendations and tips from the article, you can sew not one, but several figures using this unusual technique.

Master class: crocheted amigurumi doll

Step-by-step master class on crocheted amigurumi doll Yo-Yo:

First you need to knit two parts (baby's legs) with colored thread according to the following pattern:

*RS – single crochet

Similarly, knit the second leg and connect it to the first, you get 40 sc.

The body is knitted as a continuation of the legs from rows 14 to 25:

*U – decrease

The head is knitted as a continuation of the body, but you need to change the colored thread to beige or pale pink, rows from 26 to 54 rows:

Read

Patterns for loin crochet cardigans

Pull the thread through the remaining 6 loops, tighten, and fasten.

Tie hands (2 parts separately):

Knit the remaining loops and sew on the handles. Now dress the baby doll by knitting him a hat and scarf. Sew on eyes and decorations as desired.

Frame doll made of nylon

Making such dolls requires experience, because frame toys are the pinnacle of hosiery craftsmanship. The toys are pleasant to the touch, they are soft and resemble a little man. To create the frame, metal wire is used, preferably copper or aluminum. Finished products can stand and sit on their own.

Head

As practice shows, creating the head when making a frame doll takes the most time. This is a complex process, but if you strictly follow the step-by-step instructions, it can be made easier.

Step 1. Fill a nylon bag with synthetic padding so that you form a spherical lump. Squeeze this ball with your fingers to create another small lump - this is the nose. Tie the nylon bag after filling.

Formed doll head with nose

Step 2. Insert the needle at the top of the nose and pull the thread, thereby forming the bridge of the nose. The thread should be used in flesh color so that it does not stand out against the background of the nylon.

The bridge of the nose is formed using a thread

Step 3. In the same way, insert a needle from the bottom of the nose to create nostrils.

The nostrils are created in the same way.

Step 4. Make small loops of thread around the formed nostrils.

Loops are created around the nostrils

Step 5. Carefully pull loops of thread to outline the nose of the future doll.

Then the loops need to be removed

Step 6: Add small lumps on the sides to form the cheeks. You also need to add a piece for the mouth through the bottom hole of the head.

The doll will have chubby cheeks

Step 7: Insert a needle and thread into the left corner of your mouth and gently draw it through your left eye. Tighten and repeat the process on the right side.

Threads are passed through the eyes

Step 8: Pull the thread between the right and left corners of your lips to create a smile. The thread should be sufficiently taut.

The same thread creates a smile

Step 9. Pull another thread, only this time under the upper lip. This will create the lower lip.

Lower lip formed

Step 10. Poke the needle through the center of the smile and then bring the thread out from the top.

The needle passes through the center of the lips

Step 11. To form the sponges into a bow, tighten the thread.

The thread is tightened to make a bow on the lips

Step 12: Adjust the length of the bridge of your nose by moving the needle back and forth. It is enough to perform a few movements.

The bridge of the nose has been corrected

Step 13. Attach the finished eyes with glue. They can be removed from an old unnecessary doll or purchased in a store.

Eyes attached with glue

Step 14. Glue on the toy wig, which, like the eyes, can be removed from the old doll.

Hair can be taken from an old doll

Torso

As soon as the work on creating the toy head is completed, you can begin making the body of the future doll. Below are step-by-step instructions for this process.

Step 1. Make a frame of the body from wire, using a ready-made diagram with dimensions as a basis.

Dimensions of the frame of the future doll

Step 2. Bend 5 pieces of wire to create an arm frame. Cover the wire itself with padding polyester or other filler. Make two hands.

The doll's palms are ready

Step 3. Cover the finished palms with small pieces cut from nylon tights.

Palms are covered with nylon

Step 4. Sew the hands to create relief on the fingers, giving them a natural appearance.

Sewn hands

Step 5. Cover the doll frame with padding polyester and connect the torso with the arms and head.

Now you need to attach the doll's head

Step 6. Having finished with padding polyester, wrap the doll’s frame with nylon.

The body of our doll is almost ready

Step 7. Dress up the finished doll in some clothes and enjoy the result. You can sew the costume yourself or take outfits from other dolls. This variety will allow you to change the image of the frame doll regularly.

Finished frame doll made of tights

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materialsThin cotton fabric for bases. Stretch fabric for the skin. Cotton cambric for straightening the arms. 3 types of wire: the thickest - the neck frame, the middle - the bones of the legs and nose, the thinnest for the fingers. Fabric for kimono Work procedure. Doll body: Trace the pattern onto cotton fabric with a pencil. Cut it out. Sew the front and back sides. Pay attention to the darts. Stuff it. Hands: Trace the pattern onto cambric (thin cotton). Sew on stretch. Cut and turn inside out. Sew a line between the middle and ring fingers. Apply some glue to the wire. Wrap it with padding (cotton wool, synthetic padding, etc.). This is for the finger. Make ten such wires (length of wire = length of entire arm). Insert a wire into each finger. Stuff your palm. Wrap each five wires with stuffing material. Legs: Fold cotton fabric and stretch (stretch inside). Trace the pattern, cut, sew, turn. Wrap the wire with padding, the ends of the wire should be bent on both sides. Wrap the wire in a spiral. Transfer the pattern to any canvas you want (any color, maybe white). Cut it out. Sew the sides ( ab and cd ) of the rise. Sew on the sole. Turn it inside out. Stuff it. Insert a stick or wire into your toe. Fold the cut (a-c) and sew it to the leg. Head: Cut out the head according to the pattern from thin fabric. Sew as shown in the picture. Stuff it. Cut 2 pieces of thin and thicker wire. Apply a little glue to a thick wire and wrap it with stuffing - this is the neck frame. Instead of wire, you can use a (bamboo) stick. Glue some cotton wool in the middle of a thin wire - this will be the nose. Insert a thick wire into the neck. Bend the nose wire and attach it to your face. Make lips as follows: Roll up a piece of cotton wool, curl the edges, trim. Do it again. Glue your lips to your face with glue. Anime doll Nekomimi head: How to make a nose: How to sew a body: Clothes The face of the doll needs to be drawn. Here are some techniques on how to draw anime eyes. Start with a line that curves upward and is slightly thicker at the point of the bend. This eye will be on the right side of the face, so make the left end of the curve higher than the right. Next you want to draw the bottom part of the eye. To help you draw it, draw two thin guide lines starting at the ends of the top curve. The angle of the guides will affect how large and wide the eyes will be. Using the guides, draw the lower part of the eye. It should curve slightly on the right and be thinner on the left. Erase the lines and draw an elongated oval inside the eye. Some characters have a large circle as their iris, but this type of eye has an oval. You can choose the width of the oval at your discretion. Make the top of the oval hidden under the upper eyelid. In general, the iris is rarely completely visible; part of it is always hidden behind the corner of the eye. Next, draw the outline of the highlights. Eyes in anime always obey the falling light. Female characters usually have brightly lit eyes with lots of sparkling areas. Make sure you decide on your light source and keep it in mind throughout your work. Draw two ovals: one large one on the left side of the iris (which, as you can see, overlaps its edge), and one very small one on the other side of the eye. Draw the pupil under the highlights. The highlights should always be in the foreground. Draw eyelashes; in this particular eye, the eyelashes are a series of "spikes" found on the upper right side of the eye. Let them follow the curve of the upper eyelid so that they look like they are growing out of it. Also draw the beginning of the eyelid on the left. It's just a thin line coming from the top of the top curve. I also found options for eyes: Here, I found some general words about Japanese dolls: A ball-face is sewn and stuffed with cotton wool. In the places of the mouth and eyes, tightening stitches are made with thread on top - indentations appear on the face blank. On top of this, another fabric layer of the face is pulled very tightly: this creates a clean surface with natural depressions. Afterwards the eyes and mouth are painted on the fabric, the body and clothes are sewn. https://kyklavyz-forum.flyfolder.ru/topic386.html

Preparatory stage

Choosing the type of toy is just the beginning. It is also necessary to prepare the material in a special way to make the doll more plastic and natural. In order for the quality of the finished doll to be high, you must not only carefully follow all recommendations and rules, but also learn how to choose/prepare the right material for work.

Selection of padding polyester

Despite the fact that tights are the main material, a lot also depends on the quality of the filler, for example, the plastic and facial expressions of the toy's face. The filler must meet certain parameters. This is the only way the finished toy will keep its shape. Craftsmen use airy and uniform padding polyester that will not be sticky or roll tightly when compressed. The recovery of padding polyester after compression is another criterion by which you should choose a material for work.

Sintepon for making dolls with your own hands

Preparation of nylon

Not all types of nylon tights are suitable for making a doll. It is necessary to select materials that do not contain latex or that contain it, but in a minimal amount. After purchase, the material must be processed. Below are step-by-step instructions for processing nylon tights for their further use when creating toys.

Nylon stockings

Table. Processing tights for a textile doll.

After boiling, the material is considered completely ready for use. It is advisable to prepare several pairs of nylon tights at once, especially if you have never had to deal with making dolls before. After all, if the material gets damaged during work, you will have a spare pair of tights on hand. This will save a lot of time.

The simplest scheme for beginners

Needlewomen with at least a little experience will be able to crochet an amigurumi doll using a master class. It’s better to start by making animals. It could be a bunny, a mouse or a bear.

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Crochet summer coat using fillet knitting technique

This article contains ideas for knitting simple toys.

We offer a simple pattern for knitting an amigurumi cat. You will get a kitten like this:

For knitting take:

• polished acrylic;
• hook No. 3;
• black and pink floss to embroider the kitten’s face;
• holofiber or padding polyester for stuffing.

Head (20 rows):

Break the thread, tucking in the end, and fill the head with filler. Knit the body according to the same pattern. To make it longer, you need to knit 48 single crochets from the 9th row without decreasing 15 rows, then make decreases, as in the head knitting pattern.

You need to tie 4 paws (2 front, 2 back):

Tail in 18 rows:

Ears (2 parts):

Muzzle pad:

Start assembling the toy. Sew ears and a muzzle cap to the head. Embroider the nose with pink thread and the slits of the eyes with black thread (you can sew ready-made eyes for dolls). Sew the finished head to the body. Sew on paws and tail. If it is not a cat, but a cat, then you can knit a skirt for the toy.

Clothes for dolls

Making a dress for a doll is very easy. You need to take measurements: chest volume, distance from the top of the bodice to the waist and length of the skirt. According to your measurements, you need to cut out two rectangles: a bodice and a skirt. Finish both parts along the edges. Place the bodice on the doll, gather the skirt and sew it to the bodice. Sew Velcro to the back of the dress and add straps.

Making a skirt is even easier. Measurements: waist size and product length. Cut out two rectangles? Large for the skirt and small for the belt. Process the skirt on three sides, gather it, sew a belt to it, and sew Velcro on the back. The belt can also be made from braid. If you change the length of the skirt, the number of gathers and the color of the fabric, you can sew dozens of new skirts on your doll.

There is a very quick option for sewing trousers for a doll. For them, it is better to take stretch material, which fits well on the figure and does not crumble. To make a pattern, you need to place the doll on the fabric, trace and cut out the trousers. Sew both halves, fold and hem the top, and sew on the waistband. The trousers are ready.

Clothes for amigurumi crochet: diagrams with descriptions

Knitted amigurumi can have an extensive wardrobe, since clothes and shoes are often knitted separately.

Dress

Even a novice craftswoman, including a teenager, can crochet a simple dress for an amigurumi doll. Dress models come in a variety of styles.

Main details:

• Bodice. This piece is knitted tightly with single crochets, so it is necessary to take measurements from the doll.
• Sleeves. The simplest models do not have sleeves, but once you gain skill, you can knit a dress with sleeves.
• Skirt. Most often they make a flared skirt. Knit in single crochet stitches with increases.

To decorate the finished dress, embroidery, beads, and buttons are used. The edges of the product are often tied with yarn of a different color. You can sew lace or bows from satin ribbons.

Beret

It's even easier to tie a beret. The threads for the cap are either to match the main outfit or contrasting ones.

Start knitting from the center of the future beret, making a ring of single crochets. Then continue knitting in the round, making increments evenly.

Having knitted a circle of the required diameter, they begin to make decreases, periodically trying the hat on the doll’s head so as not to remove excess.

Skirt

To knit a skirt, you need to measure the doll's waist circumference. Then knit a chain of air loops strictly according to the measurements, knit the first row with single crochets. Then divide the resulting row into 7 parts, adding 1 loop after each part. You will get uniform expansion. Knit according to the same pattern until you get the desired length of the skirt.

If desired, the lower edge can be tied with yarn of a different color or lace can be sewn along the hem.

shoes

Knitting pattern for simple shoes step by step:

1. Make a chain of air loops measuring 4/5 the length of the doll’s foot.
2. Tie the chain on both sides with half-columns, knitting 2 half-columns into one loop in places where the curves are rounded.
3. Knit further as the second row, but after rounding on the left and right shoes you need to make 5 double crochets in a mirror to get a side relief, finish with half-stitches - the sole is ready.
4. Knit the upper part from the heel in single crochets to the desired height.

You can make a series of loops at the top to thread a lace that will hold the shoe on the toy’s foot.

Different variants

How to make a rag doll with your own hands? There are a variety of DIY rag dolls, but in general you need to stock up on:

• fabric for making the body, face and limbs of the doll - it can be fabric, yarn, nylon and even paper (some make the doll’s head from papier-mâché and the body from fabric);
• stuffing material (cereals, foam rubber, cotton wool, fabric scraps, polystyrene foam balls or holofiber);
• yarn or thread for making hairstyles;
• beads, special eyes;
• needles and threads;
• knitting supplies (you will need doll clothes, and they are very easy to knit);
• cardboard, artificial and natural leather, various elements for making accessories for dolls.

What are amulets dolls and what is their function?

A small doll made of fabric, thread, straw or herbs, dressed in beautiful, embroidered clothes, was not intended for children's play. Only a woman could make a doll-amulet, as the continuer of the family and the keeper of the hearth; men were not allowed to do such a thing.

Craftswomen tried to create a doll without using sharp objects - scissors, knives or needles (needles were allowed when embroidering doll clothes)

Another important condition is that the doll should not have a face so that evil spirits do not enter it through the eyes.

Such amulets-dolls helped in difficult life situations; they can be roughly divided into several groups:

• guardians of the home and family hearth;
• guardians of the life and health of children and adults;
• guardians of pregnant women and babies, assistants in childbirth;
• bringing good luck, prosperity, wealth;
• patrons of crafts, trade, agricultural work, good harvests;
• guardians of warriors and travelers;
• protectors from evil spirits and evil spirits;
• dolls for fortune telling.

Slavic

Girls began sewing their first amulets dolls with their own hands in childhood under the guidance of their mothers and older sisters. By the time she got married, the girl already knew how to make such amulets for various needs. The future bride also had in her dowry chest several dolls for her future home and new family. The experience of creating amulets dolls was passed down through the female line, from mother to daughter.

The main Slavic doll amulets and their meaning are given in the table:

Making a Japanese doll: imitation of a traditional kimono and hairstyle

Lately I've been actively considering the theme of Japanese clothing and hairstyles for one of my dolls. It turned out that the topic is vast and extremely interesting. In the process, the idea of ​​a fairly simple imitation of a kimono for small dolls was born, which I want to talk about here. Here I am making a small doll step by step, which can be used as a decorative element, for example, in a flower pot (where she now lives with her girlfriend :), but this method of making a kimono can be used for any small dolls. You can also involve older children in the activity - girls will be interested in dressing up their favorite doll, and at the same time learn a little about the beauties from the land of the rising sun.

First, I’ll tell you about my materials:

• Wooden stick base for doll
• Wire for flowers - about 50 cm
• 2 larger and 2 smaller balls - foam, light plastic, felted, wooden beads are suitable (they need to be able to fit on a stick)
• Black wool for hair (I used combed felting tape)
• 2 pieces of satin ribbon 3-4 cm wide and 1.5 meters long, different colors
• 1 piece of tape 2-2.5 cm wide and 1 meter long, third color
• Glue gun or "Moment"
• Lighter (to set fire to ribbons)
• Thick non-slip threads (for tying various items of clothing and hairstyles) - I have iris
• Thread and needle for sewing - matching two large pieces of ribbon
• Small ribbons for hair
• Decorative elements: beads, hairpins, artificial flowers. Umbrella for canapés. Paper fan

Let's get started!

First, we assemble the blank for the doll - we put three balls on a stick (large-smaller-large). If the balls are soft, you can place it on the stick at a slightly angle and change the position of the doll. We attach the head ball to the round end of the stick, and move the body closer to the top. We cut off the arms and legs of a suitable length from the wire (the legs are a double piece, slightly longer than the body + head; the arms are about 2/3 of the legs). Don't forget to leave small allowances on the palms and feet. We thread our hands into the upper ball, and our legs into the lower one, closer to its upper edge (if the balls are wooden, we wrap our arms around the neck above the chest, and our legs between the “waist” and “hips”). We bend the palms and feet in the form of small loops (I leave a thumb on my hands in case I give her a fan in her hand, but this makes the hand less neat).

2. Fix the wire and balls with glue in the indicated places:

3. We make the collar from a 10-15 cm piece of ribbon. You can cut it from our third, narrowest piece if ribbons are in short supply. We apply it crosswise (first the right half, then the left - this is important if we want to maintain historical accuracy). We fix both with glue in the chest area. We cut the ends or glue them, wrapping them behind the back.

4. The kimono pattern can be found on the Internet - it is very simple. In Japan, they saved fabric, so the kimono pattern consists exclusively of rectangular pieces - moreover, the width of the sleeves and halves of the front and back was the same (for the kimono, fabric of a small width was taken, 35-50 centimeters). It is also noteworthy that the size was practically the same, and adjustment to height and figure took place during the process of putting on the suit.

I’m simplifying the pattern even more here. However (I’m a bit of a reenactor at heart) I’ll still look at the full-fledged version, which is worn with the fabric gathered at the waist. Traditionally, a girl’s kimono was about 20 centimeters longer than her height, and when dressing, she gathered it into a fold at the waist - we will try to reproduce all this here. However, if the historical aspect does not appeal to you, you can simply make a “robe” and tie it with a belt; the appearance of a doll of this size will still look similar.

We start sewing from the lower kimono. If the two widest ribbons are of different widths, take the narrower one for the bottom one. But it will be easiest to dress the doll if the width of the two large ribbons is the same (for me this is not the case, I had to tinker with it to make it look neat).

So, we cut a piece from the ribbon of such length that, folded in half, it will be slightly lower than the doll’s legs (if you want a regular “robe,” then take the length to the feet). You need two such pieces - these will be the right and left halves of the kimono. For the sleeves, take two pieces approximately 2/3 of the doll’s height (folded in half should be the length from shoulder to hip).

5. If possible, iron the fold in the middle of large pieces to outline where the shoulder will be. We burn all the edges with a lighter. Now we sew (on the wrong side, with small stitches) the halves to each other, from the edge to the middle (frame 1). This will be the back of the kimono.

We sew the side seams, at the bottom the seam goes all the way, at the top we leave a gap of 3-4 cm for the sleeve (frames 2-3).

6. Take the sleeve and fold it inside out, aligning the edges tightly. We melt the edge with a lighter and quickly press it with our hands or pliers - the edges should melt with each other (it seems that this technique is used in making floral kanzashi). If there are holes left, you can carefully melt them again. The result is shown in frame 1.

Now we sew the sleeve along one side, starting from the “seam” and not reaching the top by 2-3 cm - frame 2.

We turn the resulting sleeve inside out and apply it to the kimono so that the fused “seam” is at the bottom, and the sewn side opening is adjacent to the body (frame 3). Sew along a small segment - 1 cm forward and back from the shoulder line.

7. Repeat everything with the second sleeve. The result was clothing with cutouts at the point where the sleeves were attached - this was traditional for women's kimonos (but men's kimonos were completely sewn up in the armpit area - it was believed that in both cases there should be an appropriate number of holes in the clothing).

8. Let's move on to the most interesting part - we begin to dress our doll. We put the kimono on her, and begin to outline the fold at the waist - we make sure that the hem on this side is slightly higher than the feet (frame 3). We start working from the right half - this is again important (the left half of the kimono should be on top of the right; the opposite case symbolized the afterlife and was used when dressing the deceased). The fold you have made can be pinned in the thigh area.

9. Raise the left hem in the same way - form a fold over the right half. At the same time, straighten the fold on the back. Then we combine the two halves of the kimono on the chest, so that the right fold is in the left, and the halves of the kimono at the waist lie one on top of the other (frame 2 - you can see that the ribbons are laid almost flush, the wider ribbons will even overlap). Again we help ourselves with a pin. The shoulders of the kimono should now drop slightly, and the collar should cover the neck a little wider. Remember that the seam between the kimono and the sleeve (which in European clothing should be on the shoulder) for the Japanese “slides” almost to the elbow.

10. When the kimono is aligned and a pin secures the halves superimposed on each other, we wrap the waist with a thick thread under the fold (here, tired of playing with the doll, I simply lift the kimono above my shoulders - the pin prevents it from moving apart).

Now let’s straighten the parts on the chest so that they lie nicely crosswise, and towards the waist they begin to neatly overlap each other - the rope no longer allows them to move, so you can carefully pull them up until they lie nicely. We use slits on the sides so you can stick your fingers in there.

We fix the result obtained with a second rope already on top of the fold.

11. We tie a small piece of ribbon over the rope - a wide strip will hold the kimono more neatly. The ribbon can be tied in a knot on the back - I will leave the ends, let them be visible under the outer kimono, but in principle they can be cut off. Frame 3 – another rope, you don’t have to tie it over the ribbon. Now you can breathe freely and remove the pins, the under kimono is on!

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You can take a break for a little historical information.

The fabric for the kimono (the pattern on it and the material itself) cost much more than the tailoring itself. To wash the kimono, it was recommended to completely rip out the kimono, and then the parts were carefully sewn together again. Poor people reused fabric from old kimonos for children's clothing, bags and short waist-length capes. Various fabrics were used to sew kimonos - silk, wool, cotton, satin. Currently, polyester and other artificial fabrics are also used.

Now in Japan, kimonos are the clothing of professional geishas and their maiko students (largely thanks to this institute, there is so much information on the Internet about Japanese costume and hairstyle. Summer cotton kimonos (yukata) are also common - many people, especially girls, wear them for summer festivals.Girls are usually helped to put on a kimono by their mothers or older relatives, and there are also courses on choosing fabric and how to put on a kimono correctly - not all Japanese women know how to put on a kimono on their own.

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Let's return to our doll. Let's make the second, outer kimono, after which we'll work on the belt and hairstyle.

12. Sewing the upper kimono in our case is no different from the lower one. The length of the fabric on the front and back is the same, but it is better to make the sleeves 1-2 cm longer - it will be easier to put them on top. Since the process does not change, I will not describe it - I will only demonstrate the preparation and the result. I want to make the outer kimono out of a more interesting, translucent ribbon. In addition, as you can see in the photo, my second ribbon is much wider than the first - this creates problems with folds on the shoulders and sleeves.

When putting on a kimono, we place the sleeves of the inner kimono in the sleeves of the outer one.

13. We begin to put on the second kimono in the same way as the first. When we put folds at the waist, if the tape was wide, you need to bring it further around the body and press it to the thigh. Similarly, we outline the right fold, then the left, and combine the halves of the kimono, wrapping them around the body. We use pins. Then we wrap it around the waist with thread to secure it.

14. Lower and straighten the fold, laying the kimono flat on the chest. My tape is slippery and wide, I use a lot of pins. I fasten it on both sides, press the fold on the back and pin it with a pin too.

15. I wrap the thread over the fold. We try to fix it well, now we will tie a traditional belt on top of this.

16. The obi belt was made from a wide (up to 60 cm) and very long piece of fabric, and often cost more than the rest of the product. It was tied on the back with bows of various shapes - “fake”, tightly secured bows are often used. Since making a belt at the waist and sewing a finished bow to it is not difficult, you can complete this scenario yourself - and then you can safely scroll through the next two steps!

I am still planning to learn how to tie complex bows, so for now I will make the simplest bow, the main thing is that it lies beautifully on the belt.

For the belt, take the third ribbon, cut off a piece of 50-70 cm from it. Place the belt in front, right side out, so that the right “tail” is 15 centimeters long, for the future bow. Having placed the doll with its back to itself, we fix it so that from the waist it rises up to the shoulder. We begin to wrap the long “tail” on the left in a circle horizontally, the winding should be tight.

17. When the left “tail” is equal in length to the right one pinned at the shoulder, we stop and begin tying a bow. We make a single knot, throwing the left end over the right. The resulting knot should be at the back of the waist, in the center, and the ends of the tape will be directed up and down. Now we tie a regular bow from them - it will turn out completely horizontal and will stay above the top edge of the belt.

18. The final touch remains - the traditional nihongami hairstyle. It has an established procedure for collecting hair in a bun, each strand has its own name. Our doll's hairstyle will consist of several strands of wool for felting, glued to the head - well, we will take places for gluing such that they correspond to the Japanese tradition.

We outline 4 gluing lines - along the forehead (“bangs”), along the back of the head and two lines on the sides.

19. Take three strands of wool for felting, one slightly thicker and longer. Glue short strands along lines 1 and 2 (on the forehead and back of the head), behind their center. We glue the third, larger strand across the top of the head, smearing the top of the head and the two strips marked on the sides with glue. The result is a creature reminiscent of plastic trolls from the distant 90s - the same long hair sticking out in all directions.

20. We tie a ponytail from the inner halves of the bangs and the back of the head - this will be the basis of the hairstyle. Then we first tie the remains of the back of the hair to it (tighter), then both side strands (they can be looser, laying them in waves near the face).

21. We will tie the bangs with a small bow, then we will also tie them to the tail.

22. We collect the ponytail into a loop around the finger. We tie the loop with a small ribbon. Some hairstyles left it like this, but we will do a hairstyle with a bun tied with a bow - this is what was done for young girls. To do this, press the loop to the top of the head (and the base of the tail) and tie the ends of the ribbon around it. The last two shots show a back view and a side view: the bow is at the top of the bun (apologies for the photo quality - this is not the first time).

23. Japanese women smeared their hair with a very hard and difficult-to-wash oil, which made it permanently fixed - I won’t mock the doll, I’ll leave a slightly shapeless bun and soft side strands, otherwise I could finish it all off with diluted PVA glue.

As a finishing touch, we make a couple of decorations for the beauty - here I use tailor’s pins with beads or pieces of ribbon attached to them. Well, let’s not forget about the face, of course!

You can add a comb to your hair from thick paper or foil, or glue artificial flowers on it – use your imagination! You can give the doll a fan made from a semicircle of colored paper or (like mine) a small paper umbrella. You can make sandals by wrapping your foot in a white cloth and gluing to it a sole cut from cork and making two stitches - straps.

Well, let's leave it at that. Thank you all for your attention, I hope this short excursion into history was interesting to someone

If you like the topic, I'll probably do a more detailed analysis when I get to the doll for which all this research work was done.

Have a nice day!