How to make soft felt cubes for children's development - toy ideas

What are soft sensory cubes for children's development

Beautiful toy for boys
Attention! A cube is an element of a simple construction set, thanks to which the baby learns to see the relationships between objects and connect them with each other.

The soft colored cubes are pleasant to the touch and kids will love it. Cubes are one of the oldest toys in the world. They have been known since the 1st century BC. e. A simple but perfectly shaped toy has become an integral part of many interesting children's games.

An educational cube is an interesting and useful craft for very young children. By playing with a cube, the baby will learn to recognize the color, size and shape of the cube, and also remember what the object feels like. Sensory toys play an important role in a child's mental development. The baby will be able to grab the cube, spin it in his hands and move it from place to place. During the game, the child's fine motor skills, speech, attention and thinking develop.

Cubes of different sizes are sold in sets. Such developmental sets are called sorters.

Interesting felt cube for girls

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Tuesday, February 10, 2015 01:43 + to quote book DIY educational cubes for children. Developmental cube.

Such cubes can be made with different contents - from simple, tactile-sensory ones, which will be interesting for babies from 4 months, to more complex ones, with the possibility of story-based games.
Would you like to make one like this? Join us! We cut out 6 multi-colored squares with a side of 11.5 cm. Then 6 squares from non-woven fabric with a side of 10 cm. We attach the non-woven fabric to the middle of a square of fabric. On each square we make applique, embroidery, sew on buttons and other beads. The design of the squares can be very different - you can come up with your own plots, I will have these: (don’t be alarmed that I have more than 6 squares - I sewed several cubes at once). Spiral with moving beads. Take a square of fabric and use a disappearing marker to draw a spiral on it. We cut out a strong mesh fabric (tulle breaks easily, I don’t recommend using it), cover our square with a pattern with it and sew two parts at the same time. Throw a few beads inside. A butterfly with rustling wings.
Draw a butterfly on fabric folded in half. We put a piece of plastic bag from pasta or cereal on the bottom and sew the outline of the butterfly. We cut it out, make cuts on the bends not reaching the seam a couple of millimeters. Then we make a longitudinal cut on one layer of fabric, take a cord for the antennae, find a suitable place for it - try it on with a butterfly on a square, and attach it with a zigzag. Then we also attach our butterfly with a zigzag. To close the cut, take a grosgrain ribbon, melt the ends, bend it where the head is and sew it along the edge.

The butterfly is ready and rustles wonderfully! The following squares are easier to make, I think, and without detailed explanations everything is clear. Feast at the Teddy Bears: buttons are sewn on to complement the plot - an apple, a pie, a cookie. Route: roads - cord stitched with a zigzag, button cars. A piece of felt is placed under each button on the reverse side, the thread is tied with several knots.

Bunny in the grass - so soft, pleasant to iron (applique made of fabric with a pile, stitched with a zigzag) Bird with dangling legs (applique made of felt, the legs are pre-stitched with a zigzag just like the antennae of a butterfly) Green meadow - a flower grows, a butterfly flies, a button The ladybug can move up and down on the string.

Moving hearts - rainbow and pink separately (you can study the concepts one-many, name the colors)

We supplement our cube with ribbons of different textures: zigzag, narrow, wide ribbons, cords with knots, etc., and button beads on the laces that will be sewn into the seam. Be sure to sew them first to the fabric, then they will be secured with a seam on the edge of the cube. Sew the cube. I first connect 4 pieces into a strip, then sew the top and bottom edges, as in a regular cube development.

We make a seam with a bartack, starting and ending where our interlining begins and ends, leaving the seam allowance on the other side unsewn.

Then we sew our development into a cube.
When joining two edges, we bend the allowance of the third one inward (we sew light fabrics, the green one is bent inward). We fix the bent corner with a pin so that it does not interfere with us and does not get into the seam. We sew the parts together in the same way - along the edge of the interlining. We sew the last edge 2 cm from the corners of the interlining, leaving a hole for turning it inside out. We turn the cube inside out, fill it loosely with holofiber, you can throw bells inside (if you stuff the cube tightly, then no sound will be heard, and such a cube will be heavy for the child). We sew up our hole with a hidden seam - and that’s it, the cube is ready! Source Developmental cube “Fastens”
From the general idea (a cube with fasteners) we move on to the specific - the cube has six sides. This means that we need to decide on the size, what kind of fasteners we will use, and how we will arrange it all. After thinking a little, I decided that the size of the cube would be 15 cm * 15 cm, and the edges would be as follows: - Buttons (individual felt birds fastened to the base); — Velcro (individual felt fish (with Velcro on the back side) are attached to the base using the corresponding parts of the Velcro + a little more complicated, but this will be seen later); — Zipper (a tent that closes with a zipper); — Lacing (opening edge - eyelets will be inserted at the edges of the “doors” through which you can thread the lace + basic lacing behind the “doors” (I’ll show you clearly later)); — A carabiner (on the edge where some animal is grazing, the carabiner will be a “door” in the fence); — Tying a knot on the ribbon is another facet with doors. The doors are a gift box with a cake (cake inside) that is tied with a ribbon. The subjects of the edges can be absolutely anything that comes to your mind. Not birds, for example, but the sun and clouds on buttons, not fish, but the moon and stars, a door with a zipper, a chest with a lobster lock, lacing on a shoe and much more. You can come up with plots for the edges yourself (and this is a very exciting activity) or spy on the Internet. When I had everything figured out, I drew a rough sketch. I usually draw similar sketches in Corel draw, since there you can quickly sketch out everything, immediately experiment with colors, and also, the sketch can instantly be turned into a pattern and printed in the size we need (I immediately drew the edges on a scale of 1:1) From materials, in addition to the fasteners described above, we will need fabric of different colors (I use gabardine - it has a fairly large palette, it does not fade and has a suitable density), felt ( I take sets of hard 1-1.2 mm), interlining (this is a material that, with the help of an iron, can be glued to the fabric on the back side, thereby making it denser and not allowing it to stretch in different directions as it pleases) . Well, and all sorts of little things - ribbons, regular and curly buttons. Once again, I’ll make a reservation about the fabric... I take a plain one, because when fabrics with different designs/patterns are used in one picture, the result can look tacky and tasteless. If you (like me) doubt that you can beautifully combine patterned fabrics, it’s better not to. The cost of gabardine (or other simple plain fabrics) in stores ranges from 120 to 180 rubles. You can easily afford to take several pieces of 20-30 centimeters each. So, everything is thought out, visualized, materials are available - let's start cutting! I would like to draw your attention to the fact that it is much more convenient to cut out all the elements from fabric and felt at once, rather than doing this for each edge separately, since for this each time you will need to get all the material and all the tools necessary for this, and it’s very convenient In such a multi-colored product, insert a certain color of thread into the sewing machine and sew all the elements of this color with it, rather than changing the thread for every little detail. Also, I’ll immediately make a reservation that we iron all the pieces of fabric so that everything turns out neatly, and this way it will be more convenient to work with. Side with buttons: (for each side, if you do everything for the first time and count the time for cutting and cutting, it took me two hours): According to the pattern, we cut out all the elements separately - fabric of two colors (Attention, since the cube is 15 * 15 the pieces of fabric should have extra seams - mine are 17*17), and felt pieces - you can see everything in the photo. For the birds, I used ready-made felt eyes (they are adhesive-based). When I didn’t have such a wonderful thing, I either drew the pupil with a fabric marker or embroidered it with black thread. We cut off all the excess from the green fabric so that we get a bush and baste it to the base. If you noticed, I also sealed the green fabric with non-woven fabric, albeit in an economical version.

Sew with a small zigzag. We estimate the location of all the details and mark it all with chalk, sew on a twig and leaves.

We sew the birds (and the flower) like this: first we sew on the wing (central flower) and the eyes (if they need to be sewn on), then we sew on both halves (don’t forget to add the beak).

(The flower is the wrong side of the top layer, the yellow bird is two parts of this bird, the blue one is the wrong side of the finished bird) We apply everything to the base - check everything again and mark the place where we will sew the buttons.
Sew on the buttons. Using a special foot (it came with my machine), we sew around the loop hole. Then we make a cut and one side is ready. Edge with Velcro:
My edge with Velcro is the seabed with fish, which is “hiding” behind hinged doors (sea and sky), which also close with Velcro. To make the sea depths look more like depths, I used three shades of blue for the background. I glued the top of each piece with non-woven fabric so that when I sew them onto the base, they would not “move around”. Then, I cut out the curves of the waves I needed, swept the pieces together and sewed them together with a zigzag. Then non-woven again.

On the front side, I outlined the curves of the seaweed in small pieces and sewed them on a machine (I have a special stitch for this, although the machine is a regular one), but if you don’t have one, you can just use a stitch or sew ribbons.

We stitched it and smoothed it out. Now it's the fish's turn. We cut Velcro according to the shape of our fish so that they fit in size and shape. Our fish, like birds, have two layers. We sew Velcro to the underside of the fish, or rather, to a blank that is larger in size than our “front” fish. We do this so that when we sew both halves, the seam (with which the Velcro was sewn) will not be visible, and we will not need to make sure that the halves match perfectly - we will simply then cut off all the protruding parts of the wrong side. Velcro on the backside of the fish. We sew the corresponding parts of the Velcro to the background, sew the fish together, and see what happens. I had a sheet of special felt with a “sea creatures” print, but even without it you can make basic fish (as I did with the birds above). From the depths of the sea we emerge to the surface - we move on to the “doors”. Since we have to make three faces with “doors”, I’ll write everything down here in detail. In general, everything is similar, but there will be some nuances. So, the size we need here is such that the width is the same as the edge, and the height is more than half (to create a smell - a place for attaching Velcro). Mine, with seam allowances, is 17 cm * 12 cm. The “doors” are double-sided, naturally, which means we need two pieces for the “sky” and two pieces for the “sea”. We glue the inside of all four pieces with non-woven fabric.

We design the two front pieces so that they look like the sky and the sea. I added clouds to the sky, and waves to the sea (again, this is a special line for me, but you can do without it). On the part with the sky I also added a felt boat to make it more fun.

(Alas, the boat was not included in the frame) We sew Velcro onto the back of the “sea” and to the front of the “sky”. Please note that the “sea door” overlaps the “sky door”, which means that on the “sky door” you need to leave space for Velcro. Sorry, but I only have a photo of the “sky” from the inside out, but it shows what the door looks like, already sewn from two halves, but not yet turned inside out. If you look closely, you can see that the connecting seams are laid along the lines that I drew, once again specifying the dimensions so as not to “go” anywhere, and so that the width of the “doors” is necessarily 15 cm. We also look at that the corners are cut off - this is so that the corners look neater when turned inside out. When the “doors” are ready, we turn them inside out and iron them. You can put a piece of cobweb between the layers of “doors” (this is the kind of material that is used to glue two parts together - we put a piece of cobweb between the halves and go over it with a hot iron). I do this so that the “doors” are more solid. Cobwebs are sold in sewing stores in the form of tape (of varying thicknesses or cut like fabric). A very convenient thing - I recommend it . But you can use it, and in mono you can completely do without it.
When everything is turned inside out and ironed, we sew the “doors” to the base with the fish so that everything is in its place when we start assembling our cube. Edge with lightning:
Everything is simple here.
We make the background in the same way as for the previous two faces (interlining from the inside at the joints of the overlay parts, zigzag, interlining to the wrong side of the layer when all the parts are stitched). But you will have to tinker with the tent... As I did: first, having previously folded, ironed and basted the edges, I sewed on the inside of the tent, then I spent a long time fiddling with the zipper and two layers of the outer part of the tent and, lastly, the outer corners of the tent ( in order to cover up imperfections in the corners) I hid it under felt triangles. So, I advise you not to do this) Because it turned out to be very confusing. I advise you to immediately take felt or fleece for all parts of the tent - one triangle (inner part), and four triangles (outer part) - two for each half. Carefully (remembering to hide the ends) sew a zipper between each pair of pieces. And, after that, sew to the base along the outer sides. The undeniable advantage of felt and fleece in this option is that it does not need to be tucked - this is very inconvenient on such small parts. Edge with lace:
Here, as in the edge with Velcro fish, we will have a background and “doors”. There will also be lacing on the background, but very simple, so that even the smallest children’s hands can handle it, but on the doors - this is already the highest class, when the baby grows up a little. So, the background. In essence, it’s just a sky with clouds. For the clouds, I took faux fur (children are in awe of such details and can touch these parts for quite a long time, but white fabric (the reverse side is lined) or white felt/fleece will also work here. I attached a loop of ribbon to each cloud - I just basted it ( We will go through machine stitching here when we assemble the faces into a cube.) Also at the bottom of the background I sewed another ribbon, to the back of which I tied a bird button (it is the one that will fly through the loops on the clouds). The tip of the ribbon (and I have this satin cord) I melted a little over the candle so that it would not unravel. I sewed the “doors” in the same way as the previous ones, but with a slight difference - they do not close overlapping, but joint to joint and will not be fixed horizontally, as in the edge of the sea, but vertically. I decorated their inner part with stitched continuations of those clouds that were in the background (see photo above). Now let's move on to the eyelets (these are the same metal things that will frame the holes for the lace). First of all, step back a centimeter - one and a half from the inner edge of our “doors”, draw a line in chalk on which the eyelets will be placed, then lay the “doors” opposite each other (in this position, in which they will be in the finished product) and mark three or four points on each side. In order for everything to work out accurately, it is important to measure everything so that there are equal spaces between the points.

A little about eyelets. I took 5 mm ones, you can take larger ones, but preferably no more than 8 mm. They are sold in sewing stores. Some eyelets made of soft metal, when installed on the reverse side, “roll” into a smooth cap, and some (made of harder metal) tear into petals. If you come across the latter, then choose a tighter lace for lacing so that it does not cough on these petals during constant lacing/unlacing. In nature, there is a special machine for installing eyelets, but if it is not there, then you can get by with an ordinary hammer and a special device, which usually comes with the purchase of eyelets, if this is a kit and not sold individually. If we bought it individually, then we will do without a special thing - with one hammer. In order not to accidentally spoil the “doors”, we drive the first, test grommet (I don’t have a miracle machine) on a separate unnecessary piece of paper (it is desirable that it be as thick as same as our product).

We do everything as for finishing work: - mark a hole; - make a hole (I used a seam ripper for this) - cut it with a cross and carefully cut off the excess with scissors; — correctly, as described in the instructions, install the eyelet and device (or only the eyelet); — we put an unnecessary board under it all; - hit with a hammer several times. Let's see what happened. If everything is fine, then we nail everything down; if the grommet is wrinkled or deformed, we train some more (reducing the impact force and increasing their number). If the reverse side has not rolled up or split into petals, then you can take small wire cutters (yes, I have those too) and make several vertical cuts around the grommet post in a circle. Now everything should definitely work out!
Edge with a snap hook:
This edge turned out to be the most simple. I sewed a background (a pig under an oak tree with acorns turned out to be more logical than a lamb). I sewed two fabric strips (although you could probably get by with a simple thick braid, remembering to melt it on both sides), inserted them into the halves of the carabiner and secured our fence, sewing felt “pegs" on top of it. I’ll make a reservation right away that when I sew figured buttons somewhere (be it acorns on this side, or fruits on the next), I “bite off” the “legs” of the buttons, for which they need to be sewn on, then with a thin drill (0.5 mm or 1 mm) I drill neat holes and sew them with monofilament (it is very similar to fishing line, only thinner and softer - very convenient, so as not to guess “what color of thread will be less noticeable here” I do all this so that the buttons protrude from the background as little as possible.
It’s more beautiful this way, and we reduce the likelihood that little fingers will tear them off or chew them off to zero. Edge with a knot
There is nothing complicated here either. Making a background with a cake. We sew the “doors”, as usual, the same size as at sea (so that they overlap a little), when they are ready, we begin to make the ribbons from which the bow-knot will be tied. The ribbons are two rectangles 30 cm * 7 cm. You can glue them with non-woven material from the inside out (so that the ribbons are denser and do not get pulled into a very tight knot). We fold each rectangle in half and, with an indentation of 2-5 mm, stitch along the edge, leaving one of the short sides unstitched. We carefully cut off the corners on the side where we laid the stitching so that they straighten out better when turned inside out. Through which we turn the part unsewn inside out, straighten the corners and iron it. The ribbons will look neater and more elegant if they are stitched around the perimeter and along the front side (this will be visible in the next photo).

All that remains is to put everything together.
We tie the ribbons the way they should be tied and apply them to the doors, then we baste and sew them in the middle of the “doors”, stepping back three centimeters from the inner edge (we try very hard to do this at the same level and with the same indentation), and sew the doors to the base. Everything with edges! Assembly
We lay out the edges in the order in which they should be in the finished product. I made a border with a cake and a red ribbon on top (as if it were the top of a gift box). And from this I danced further - I make the top of all adjacent faces at the junction with it. It is advisable to orient the bottom edge in the same plane as the top (common vertical and bottom/top locations). We sew the sides together. We turn it inside out and make sure that the basting does not capture anything unnecessary (“doors” or other important elements of the edge). If everything looks good, we sew it on a typewriter. Please note that the seam retreats from the edge by a centimeter at its beginning and end (this is necessary in order to sew in the remaining edges).

We baste the top edge.
We turn it inside out again and check that nothing important has been sewn on. We stitch on a machine, paying special attention to the corners. We baste the bottom edge, but not entirely, but leaving 5-7 cm on each side at one corner (this will be a hole for filling the cube - we will sew it up by hand at the very end). They turned it inside out, checked it, stitched it. My filler is foam rubber. Bought at a hardware store - the size of the sheet was meter by meter, thickness 10 cm. cube is 15*15, then another ten-centimeter piece is added, the same, but cut in half in thickness. We tamp everything inside and carefully sew up the unstitched corner with our hands. All is ready! You can also use any other fasteners - hooks and eyes, buttons, various buckles and much more. You can make themed pages, like I did here, or you can just carefully design all the fasteners on the edges. Source Game cube for girls

You should obtain and prepare: 1. A 10 cm cube of foam rubber.

2. Felt with a pattern for the background 3. Children’s felt “Counting” 4. Plastic mirror 8 cm

5. Decorative buttons 6. Velcro circles

7. Glue gun

8. Colored threads

9. Scissors, needle.
And we begin to create:
Our goal is to cover the foam cube. I decided to devote 5 faces of the cube to counting from 1 to 5, respectively. Korean felt with a ready-made print came to the rescue. Cut out the first 5 squares (7 cm)

And I selected felt for the background. Here's what I got: Cut the background felt into squares with a side of 10 cm to fit the size of the cube.

Let me remind you that it is very convenient to cut felt on a mat with a cutter. Let's deal with each edge separately - decorate it in the intended way with buttons and sew a small square to the background one. For example, I decorated the first picture with a bead - a berry on a cake and sewed it on as a pocket. For a secret, candy. The sixth face will have a mirror. Cut out a 7 cm window in felt for an 8 cm mirror.

Using a glue gun, glue the mirror (circle the position) and felt

All that remains is to cover the cube with felt squares. You can also drip glue under them. Sew along the sides using a buttonhole stitch. It is one of the main ones in hand sewing. And this is what I got: Edge 1 - Number 1. Bead. Face 2 - Number 2. Two wooden hearts Face 3 - Number 3. Three flowers with Velcro. Velcro, although adhesive-based, needs to be sewn to felt. but they stuck to the buttons perfectly. Edge 4 - Number 4. Four apples.

Face 5 - Number 5. Five buttons with smiles.
Face 6 - with a mirror. It reflects perfectly! This is how it turned out to be a game cube with educational and gaming elements made of felt and buttons. How you can play:
1. Repeat numbers and count from 1 to 5. 2. Touch buttons for the little ones, paste over and glue Velcro buttons (under supervision!) 3. Repeat colors.
4. Use for storing hairpins - the squares are sewn so that you can attach, for example, bobby pins or crabs to them. 5. As a decorative element for a children's room or doll's house. A mirror is always appropriate for a girl. This is just some of the entertainment that came to my mind. Well, Alice, having received the gift, hugged it and then began to study it. Strictly speaking, the toy has no developmental effect. She is colorful. And the presence of buttons can alert parents. Therefore, the most acceptable option for using such a cube is for a 3-4 year old girl to play forfeits. You can come up with a task for each number and complete it with which side of the cube you caught. You can come up with your own elements for the faces of the cube, but I advise you to place a mirror. Source Developmental cube, master class, description
Developmental cubes made according to the methods of M. Montessori, B. Nikitin develop fine motor skills, speech, help to learn colors, geometric shapes, and counting.
The cube grows with the baby. The older the child, the more difficult the tasks that the cube gives him. First I will talk about its didactic side, how to play with my cube, what poems to use, then I will move on to a technical description of the process of its creation. Didactic description
1. Red side. Christmas tree with laces. There is a mushroom hiding under the Christmas tree. The Christmas tree has a variety of textured beads of different colors and sizes, wooden, acrylic and ribbed. Sun made from a yellow button. The Christmas tree itself is made of fleece. 2. Pink side. Flower meadow with a butterfly. The flowers are attached to buttons. We learn to fasten buttons and develop fingers. A butterfly flies over the flowers, it can fly from flower to flower.

While playing, you can read the following poems to the baby
: *** Beautiful butterfly, In a bright, colored dress, Spun around, flew, Sat on a flower, tired... - I didn’t sit down to rest, I ate flower nectar. *** Amazing flower: Bright, bright shred! And along the edge there is lace. Oh! Head with a mustache! Here are the miracles: This is a beautiful butterfly! Summer beauty We all really like 3. Orange side. Study of geometric shapes. We ask the child to arrange the figures in the correct order. they are all outlined. We tell you what a triangle and a square are. That you can use them to make shapes. We ask you to find triangular shapes, square ones, etc. in the house. You can ask your child to trace the shapes on a piece of paper.

4. The light green (optionally white) side is creative.
Pyramid with Velcro (study of color and correlation of objects). The side is like a white sheet - you can sculpt any other details on it, for example, on the adjacent side - geometric shapes. Also in this cube I complicated the task by adding 4 puzzles to the side*. Apple (2 colors), pear and banana. Apples from 4 parts, banana and pear from two. We complicate the task according to age. It’s better not to show all the puzzles at once, but to introduce them gradually in order to constantly increase the baby’s interest in the cube. 5. Green side. Hiding bead. Textured beads on a waxed cord for learning counting and developing fine motor skills. 6. The violet side is ringing. Noisy, rustling. On this side of each cube there is a sling toy of your choice. In this case, a cheerful caterpillar. A surprise is hidden in each compartment of the body - peas, rustling bags, bells, small beads. On this side there is also a colorful butterfly with a bell. You can tell your baby about how a butterfly is born. That at first it is a caterpillar. A rustling package is hidden in the sun. You can put figures from adjacent sides into the pocket. Play and develop! Technical description of knitting
1. We knit the sides Designations Vp-chain loop Ss - connecting column St. W/N - single crochet St S/N - double crochet *always mark the beginning of the circle with a contrasting thread *if you get lost in the rows, knit squares measuring 10X10, or as you wish Pink, purple, red, orange, light green Make a sliding loop , or cast on 2 air loops, in the second loop from the hook, knit the 1st row - 8 tbsp. b/n. 2nd row - in every second loop, knit 3 tbsp. b/n. 3-13th rows - in each of the four corners, knit 3 tbsp into the central loop. b/n. Green side with hidden bead. Cast on 2 air loops, knit the 1st row into the second loop from the hook with yellow thread. - tie 7 tbsp in the center of the ring. b/n. 2nd-4th rows - knit st. b/n, adding 7 tbsp. b/n (= 28 p.). Rows 5-11 - knit st. b/n exactly. 12th row - change the red thread, divide the knitting into 4 parts (7 loops each) and knit st. b/n. 2nd row - knit st. b/n, tie 3 tbsp in every second loop. b/n. 3-13th rows - knit st. b/n, knitting 3 tbsp in each of the 4 corners into the central loop. b/n. 13-20th rows - knit as the 12th row.

2. Purple side
Knitting a caterpillar

For the base, choose juniper beads or beech beads with a diameter of 15 to 25 cm. We tie the beads with a tight knitting sc.
string the beads onto a waxed cord one by one, between the tied beads inserting a colored bead of a smaller size, or a colorless wooden one, it all depends on your imagination. Pattern for tying
1 row - 6 sc in an amigurumi ring 2 row -6 increases 3 row - 1 sc, 2 sc one loop (increase), repeat to the end of the row 4 row - 2 sbn, increase, repeat to the end of the row 5 r - 7 sb in a circle 8 r - 2 sb, decrease, repeat to the end of the row 9 r - 1 sb, decrease - repeat to the end of the row pull * if you have a larger bead, then add rows and columns. Two compartments of the caterpillar body, for example, yellow and red, can be filled with peas, and rustling bags - instead of beads.
We knit the horns according to the following pattern - 1 row - 6 sc in an amigurumi ring 2 r -6 increases 3-1 sc, 2 sc one loop (increase), repeat until the end of the row 4 - sc in a circle 5 r -1 sc, decrease - repeat until the end of the row fill loosely with filler, pull it to the tip, sew a bell Butterfly (the simplest)
row 1 9 ch, in the last 3 sc, unfold the knitting, sc to the end of the row, 3 sc in the last loop, unfold the knitting, sc to the end of the row, 3 sc in the last loop.
Row 2: 9 ch in the 4th loop, 4 ch in the last one. 3 sc in a butterfly tail (last loop), unfold the knitting, and knit in a mirror image to the end of the row. then we tie all the wings with dc. If desired, change the thread. Sun
1- 6 sc in the amigurumi ring, we mark the beginning of knitting with contrast thread (I do this through a sliding loop, you can cast on 2 air loops and knit 6 sc in the first loop) 2- 6 increases 3- 1 sc, 2 sc one loop (increase), repeat to the end of the row 4-2 sc, increase, repeat to the end of the row 5-3 sc, increase, repeat to the end of the row 6-4 sc, increase, repeat to the end of the row 7-9 rows - sc in each loop or knit rows to the desired size Row 10 - elongated loops: put the thread over the index finger of your left hand - insert the hook into the base loop and grab the working thread under the index finger and pull out a new loop - grab the working thread and pull it through 2 loops on the hook. If the description is not clear, watch a video tutorial on knitting elongated loops on YouTube. On the other side of the sun, we sew on a material, fleece or another of your choice, and fill the sun with peas or a rustling bag. We knit a pocket from fillet mesh. This is what we got 3. Pink side We embroider the flower meadow using satin stitch with green thread, where there should be flowers we sew yellow buttons on the leg, this will be the core of the flower. We knit the simplest flowers. A chain of 10 air loops is closed into a ring with a connecting post. Next we knit *3 chain stitches, a double crochet stitch in a ring of chain stitches, 3 chain stitches and a connecting stitch in a ring of chain stitches. Repeat knitting from * 5 more times. Cut and fasten the thread. Here our flower is ready. We already know how to knit a butterfly. Our butterfly can fly from flower to flower. 4. Red side Cut out a Christmas tree, a hedgehog, a mushroom from fleece and sew it to the knitted side. We sew beads and rings for lacing onto the Christmas tree. We decorate the side with a sun made from a button.

I offer several stencils, but you can create your own.

5. Orange side. Geometric figures. Everything is simple here - we cut out multi-colored shapes from fleece - a triangle, a square, a circle, a rectangle, and sew them to the Velcro tape. embroider the outlines on the side with contrasting thread.

6. Green side We tie a juniper or wooden bead with a diameter of 20-25 mm according to the caterpillar principle. 1 row - 6 sc in the amigurumi ring 2 row - 6 increases 3 row - 1 sc, 2 sc one loop (inc), repeat to the end of the row 4 row - 2 sc, increase, repeat to the end of the row 5 r - 7 sc in the circle 8 r - 2 sc, decrease, repeat to the end of the row 9 r -1sc, decrease, repeat to the end of the row We knit 30 chain loops, break the thread.

*We will later thread it into the middle of the yellow hole and sew it on the back side of the foam base. We put the beads in random order on a waxed cord and tie them to the side. We decorate with wooden buttons. 7. Light green side Sew the Velcro base in the center of the side. We sew the puzzles themselves to the sticky side of the Velcro. We make simple puzzles from two parts, complex ones from four.

8. Sew the foam base and cut a hole for the hidden bead. 9. Connect the sides of the square in a sequence convenient for you. I first fasten the orange, red, pink, purple sides with connecting posts, or you can sew them with a needle. Then I connect the remaining parts and the result is such beauty. Fruitful creativity to all. Create and love! Source Another cube for educational games: The parts are cut out in the appropriate size. The tree is made of black leather and green felt. An owl made of brown felt is hidden in the trunk. A bush is made of light green leather, with a snail on it. The snail's antennae are made using a back-needle stitch. There is a plastic punch-out rotating flower attached to the bottom of the tree. 1. To decorate the red edge you need 4 hooks and 5 loops. Mushrooms and acorns are made in different sizes. All removable parts are hidden in a brown felt basket. Each mushroom and acorn has a sewn loop on it so that they can be hung on a hook. There is an acorn and a mushroom sewn into the squirrel's paws. The mushroom is sewn onto the loop. The basket is tied with a red ribbon with white polka dots. 2.A frog made of green felt is sewn onto another red edge. Her mouth is zipped shut and her long red tongue is hidden inside. The eyes are made of felt and buttons.

3.The second orange side is decorated with a blue cloud on white Velcro. The cloud is filled with cotton wool. Below is a lake made of blue felt. The flowers are made of felt in yellow, red and orange colors. Inside, each flower is filled with cotton wool to create volume. The centers are sewn blue hat buttons. Each flower has a different colored ribbon attached to it. A button in the shape of a duck is sewn onto the lake, on a yellow flower in the shape of a ladybug.

4.On the first of the two white edges there is a three-dimensional Christmas tree decorated with buttons. The snowman is made of blue felt. Its lower part is sewn, and the two upper parts are fastened with buttons. The broom is made from a living tree branch and threads that imitate straw. The snowman's nose is made of orange felt and sewn in such a way that you can pull it. 5.The second edge of white imitates the sky. It has a blue felt pocket sewn on it in the shape of a cloud. The ribbons are superimposed in a rainbow pattern. A cord is inserted diagonally along which the sun moves. In the upper corner the lace is pulled into a ribbon loop, and in the lower corner - into a hole cut in the pocket. The sun is made of yellow felt and filled with cotton wool. The face is embroidered with thread. By pulling the string, the sun either appears or hides behind a cloud.

6.After completing all sides of the cube, it needs to be sewn from the wrong side, leaving only one seam open. 7. Turning the cube right side out, you need to fill it with foam rubber. To do this, cut the squares and fold them into a cube in the appropriate size. Places that are poorly filled should be filled with cotton wool. Sew the last side of the cube right side together.

The product is ready. The entire cube is sewn by hand, without using a sewing machine. Enjoy your work and have fun playing for your little one! Source

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Soft cube options

Soft cubes are created for babies from 4 months to 3 years. They are made from high-quality non-toxic materials. The child will be able to twirl these toys, squeeze them with his fingers and even taste them with his tongue. It is impossible to get hurt on these colorful soft cubes: they are absolutely safe and bring a lot of benefits. As a rule, you can find cubes of various sizes in stores. Relying on a large cube, the child will learn to walk.

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There are several types of soft cubes:

• With multi-colored edges. Each face of the cube is painted a different color. This way the child will be able to learn the names of 6 colors.
• With bright, colorful designs. Looking at pictures with images of animals, birds, berries, the baby will remember them.
• With letters. Useful for learning to read and write.
• With letters and pictures. The pictures show objects whose names begin with the indicated letter.
• With numbers. Will be needed to get acquainted with mental counting.
• Mosaic cube. Each face shows a part of the picture. You need to correctly assemble several cubes to get a solid picture.
• With pockets. You can hide various objects in them.

Educational cubes are made from various high quality materials:

• felt;
• plush;
• wool;
• knitwear

The inside of the toy is tightly stuffed with padding polyester or holofiber. There are no sharp elements in it, so the baby will not get hurt. The elastic cube can be washed in a washing machine.

Attention! If a cube is filled from the inside with holofiber, it turns out soft, but may not always keep its shape.

If a cubic piece of foam rubber was used as a base, the figure holds its shape, but may turn out to be too hard.

Application "Amanita"

Ready-made examples for girls and boys

You can sew a cube for your baby with your own hands. By showing imagination, even a novice craftswoman will be able to create an original toy and decorate it with interesting details. Beautiful and funny cubes will appeal to all boys and girls.

You can depict a cartoon character on a craft. The soft watch will certainly interest the baby

You can complicate your task and make a craft from several parts

How to make a developing cube with your own hands?

Before you start creating a toy, it is recommended to find out what materials are suitable for children. So, when making a cube with your own hands, you can use:

• artificial fur;
• velvet or suede;
• plush;
• cotton fabric with thick pile;
• linen;
• cotton;
• terry synthetic fabrics;
• hypoallergenic yarn;
• organic glue that can be washed off the skin;
• ordinary cardboard.

To create an unusual multifunctional toy with your own hands, follow the step-by-step instructions:

• For the frame of the cube, you can glue a development or take ready-made boxes or old figures.
• You can create a soft case to fit the figurine or stick colorful illustrations on it.
• On the edge of the cube you can attach small toys, beads on a crossbar, buttons, a pocket with a zipper, or a squeaker.
• To develop reading, addition and subtraction skills, you can sew on three-dimensional letters and numbers. It is recommended to use a plain background against which the characters will be clearly visible.

Despite the fact that three-dimensional figurines are a children's game invented long ago, they are still popular. By updating the design and creating new versions with their own hands, aimed at the development of the baby, parents extend the life of the toy.

What you will need during the work process

Required materials and tools:

• felt, fleece, plush or any other soft fabric;
• sewing threads (they must match the color of the fabric);
• tailor's scissors;
• sewing needle;
• tailor's chalk;
• holofiber, synthetic winterizer, foam rubber, cotton wool - for stuffing;
• ribbons, rings, laces, Velcro, hooks, fasteners - for decoration;
• thermal transfers (transfers);
• interlining.

You can cut out a beautiful design from multi-colored fabrics and sew it to the cube.

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If there is foam rubber inside the toy, then it itself can be sewn from soft and light fabric. If you plan to stuff the toy with holofiber, it is better to use a denser fabric, for example, felt or gabardine.

Important! You should not sew beads or seed beads onto the toy, as small children may swallow them.

All laces and rings must be securely sewn to the walls of the cube.

Pocket with a pattern is easy to make

Space for little secrets

You can insert lightning trims into the edges of the cube. This will give additional rigidity to the cube. And it will be convenient for a child’s hand to grab the ribbed edge.

When the cube is assembled, we have space left in it for little secrets. You can safely put all the small toys you find while cleaning in that hole with the cuff. And not only toys, but also quite everyday things: corks, clothespins, bottles, toys from Kinder surprises, scraps of bright rags.

In addition to the fact that the cube occupies the child for some time, it gives initial concepts about the surrounding space and develops fine motor skills. If a child sees a rainbow, a traffic light or a ladybug while walking, he will be happy with it, like an old friend.

Originally posted 2018-03-19 10:00:42.

How to work with templates correctly

To help beginning craftswomen, soft cube templates have been created. You need to cut 6 squares of the same size (8 x 8, 10 x 10 or 15 x 15) and sew them together. On the pattern you need to leave 1-2 cm for seams.

First you need to cut out a template from cardboard - an even square. Then the fabric is folded into 6 layers, a template is applied to them and a square is traced with tailor's chalk. Then it is cut out along the contour, and then you get 6 identical neat parts.

Additionally, fabric-cut designs, appliqués, ribbons and much more are sewn on. You can decorate the walls of the cube with embroidery. Cutting requires a lot of attention and time. The result depends on the quality of the cut.

Templates for fasteners and pockets

Ready-made soft cube templates

The easiest way is to work using ready-made templates, patterns and diagrams. How to work with templates:

1. You should print out a diagram, pattern or template.
2. You need to put tracing paper on top and trace the outline of the drawing with a simple pencil.
3. A carbon copy is placed on cardboard or thick paper, and tracing paper with a design is placed on top. Its contours are outlined with a pencil, pressing firmly on it.
4. Using scissors, cut out a piece from cardboard.

In the same way, transfer a design from office paper to fabric.

Template for decorating the edge

Cube cutting and creative sewing

We cut out 6 squares from felt, 6 identical squares from cotton and 6 squares with a side of 1 cm from foam rubber. In children's toys, all small parts must be secured very carefully so that there is not the slightest possibility of tearing them off.

In order to make the first face , you need to do the following:

1. We fold felt, foam rubber and cotton, basting on the sides. In the future, we repeat this operation for each face.
2. We find the center of the square and, if there is no compass, using an auxiliary pattern (bottom of a glass, lid, etc.) draw a hole. The size of the hole is determined by the size of the child's hand and the cut cuff that we have prepared.
3. Cut a hole. We sew a cuff to it. We check that a child’s hand can easily fit into the hole.

Why you need to develop fine motor skills

Many people know about the need to develop children's fine motor skills from an early age. However, not everyone understands why this is needed and what such activities are.

Fine motor skills are the ability to perform precise movements with the hands and fingers. It is coordinated by the work of the nervous, muscular, skeletal and visual systems. Its development begins in the first months of a child’s life with looking at his own fingers and hands. Then the baby gradually learns to master them by picking up toys. Motor skills have a positive effect on manual dexterity, the formation of a student’s future handwriting, and reaction speed.

It has been established that the level of development of a child’s speech directly depends on the degree of formation of finger movements. In the human brain, the centers responsible for speech and motor skills are located nearby. Thus, when one area is stimulated, the other is also activated.