How to make an ash pan from tin with your own hands? -

What it is?

The ash pan is the same as the ash pan. An ash pan has long been included in the design of any stove. This is a chamber under the firebox grate, which is equipped with a metal tray.

When any material is burned in a furnace, ash and ash remain. For such waste, a special place is needed, and that is exactly what the ash pit is.

It's hard to imagine a stove without a blower. Then the entire structure ceases to function normally, and may even make no sense. After all, the ash pan is an important component, without which all excess waste would come out.

Dust from the firebox is transferred to the ash pan using a grate. The air thus gets to the fire and allows the fuel to burn as efficiently as possible. After which the air passes further and is removed into the chimney.

Useful video

Not just diagrams, but also a description of the advantages and disadvantages of vertical and horizontal structures (not necessarily made of pipes). Plus interesting life hacks.

Even more diagrams, even more explanations about them. However, the main concern of the author of the video is that you get a stove for a real Russian bath. So sauna lovers don’t have to watch it).

We hope that you have received some kind of holistic understanding of what a sauna stove is. Other things can only be learned from practice and experiment. Good luck to you!

What tools are needed?

Before you do tin work with your own hands, you should select a set of materials and tools. You will need equipment for tin work.

You will need a sheet of thin tin. To make the pipe even, a material with a smooth structure and clear corners is taken. Do not use sheets with torn edges.

Cutting the material does not require effort, but before starting work, it is worth preparing the following tinsmith tools:

Metal cutting scissors are used to cut the piece into blanks.
Use a mallet or rubber hammer that does not leave dents. The weight of the tool is selected to be heavy, but the impact force is controlled.
To make bends, use pliers or pliers.
Machines for sheet metal work are recommended. A workbench is suitable that allows you to evenly position the sheet and mark it.
For calibration, a tube with thick walls and an angle are used, which is mounted to the edge of the workbench. The corner is chosen to be massive, since the metal is bent on it. The pipe helps in making the longitudinal seam of the main line.
A thin steel rod is used as a marker. It is made independently. To do this, sharpen the nail.
A measuring tool is recommended. Tape measures and squares are suitable for this.

You will need a round piece to assemble the product. For this, we recommend a pipe with a cross-section of 90 mm and not too long.

Possible difficulties during construction

The gas cylinder valve is screwed on very tightly. It's not easy to remove. Unscrewing will require a good adjustable wrench and a lot of physical effort. To make the process go faster, it is recommended to fix the cylinder.

Attention! Do not start cutting the cylinder without first filling it with water, as residual propane can lead to an explosion.

Cutting metal and cutting sheet steel with a grinder is a labor-intensive process. The work will be speeded up by a plasma cutter , which can be rented from specialized companies.

A finished potbelly stove placed on a base may wobble. This happens if the heater legs are of different lengths. Trim them using a grinder.

Galvanization and polymer coating: what are the differences?

For most modern machines, it makes no difference what type of sheet metal is bent on it. But there are some difficulties in working with metal coated with a polymer composition. It’s easier with galvanizing, because its protective layer is more resistant to abrasion and damage. Therefore, nothing prevents you from bending galvanized steel with blows or sliding it along a rusty template - the main thing is that there are no deep scratches.

The coating with special paint has less mechanical strength, it is thinner and peels off relatively easily. It would not be the best solution to bend rolled polymer on old sheet bending machines with defective rolls, rotary beams or loose hinges, and even more so, such metal should not be processed with a mallet. Likewise, you should not use any available devices that can damage the anti-corrosion film.

Features of the source material

Before you start making a pipe from a sheet of metal, you should become more familiar with the material from which the pipe will be made and its features. To begin with, it is worth saying that this is a rolling type product, in other words, tin is a sheet of steel that has passed through the rollers of a rolling mill and has a thickness of 0.1-0.7 mm.

In addition to rolling operations, the technology for producing tin plates involves processing the finished rolled products to prevent the formation of corrosive processes. To do this, a layer of material is applied to the steel after rolling, which is not susceptible to corrosion.

The result of the performed actions is a steel sheet, the width of which can vary from 512 to 1000 mm, with a chrome or zinc coating. The finished product is flexible, so tin can be easily processed by hand. At the same time, rolled stiffeners can be compared in strength to steel products. This allows the use of tin in the manufacture of products of complex designs.

Electric folding machine ↑

High-quality crimping of the lock is ensured by two types of rollers: pulling and profiling. Its productivity is quite high - 5 m per minute. It is inexpensive, so it quickly pays for itself. In addition to the capabilities of a semi-automatic machine, it became possible

processing wet/oily metal surfaces, high-quality seam crimping even where clamps are installed.

Unlike a semi-automatic machine, the fold closes in one pass.

Source: stylekrov.ru

Review of hand tools ↑

The roofing knife “Hook” got its name in accordance with the type of its blade. This blade copes well with cutting soft tiles. Roofing knives are sold complete with several trapezoidal blades. So, when installing a roof made of bitumen shingles, hook blades must be purchased separately. It is recommended to use a double-sided blade, as it is most convenient for installing soft tiles. When it starts cutting poorly, the blade is simply turned over.

Tinsmith Roofer Tools ↑

Today you can even buy tools for a tinsmith online, so it is all the more important to have a correct understanding of the capabilities of each of them and what specific work they are intended for.

To install a metal roof directly on the roof, use a tin tool. These include devices necessary for cutting and bending metal, mallets, hammers and others. For manual work, use:

Roofing pliers, unlike regular pliers, have a larger working width. For this reason, axle wear increases, which leads to increased play in the connection of the cutting edges. Therefore, they are additionally hardened. Pliers are used to bend the edges of metal sheets during their assembly. They may vary in shape:

semicircular ones are used for making bends, finishing various shaped elements, when dismantling the coating, installing a gutter and other processes; straight lines are necessary when working with galvanized roofing, as they do not damage the zinc layer; curves are indispensable when performing installation in areas that are difficult to access for assembly.

Hand scissors provide fast, yet very precise cutting of roofing material. They differ in their shape, size, degree of bending, blade length, and special purpose. The latter can be used, respectively, for cutting sheet or corrugated metal or flat slate. When working with long workpieces, pelican scissors are used; when cutting along a circle, radius scissors are used. Where it is impossible to reach with an ordinary tool for a tinsmith, scissors, the edges of which are curved at right angles, will come to the rescue. A folding hammer equipped with a short handle is convenient for performing work in hard-to-reach areas. It is recommended to choose a hammer with a plastic tip so as not to damage the protective layer of polymer paint on a steel roof during bending work, or to carefully form a seam on an aluminum or zinc-titanium roof.

Roofing frames made of steel (khapa) are used when installing seam roofing. With their help, a double standing seam is formed in two stages. The device consists of two frames, which are numbered in accordance with the order of passage. The fold is first closed with frame No. 1, then No. 2 is used. Today on the market there are also universal frames that work like both numbers. The traditional wooden mallet has been replaced by modern plastic ones based on high-strength polyethylene. The shape of the models has become more diverse - rectangular, round, wedge-shaped, truncated, having a different shape of the impact part. Steel mandrels are used to process edges and folds at intersections when it is not possible or very difficult to do this using mechanized devices. According to their intended purpose, mandrels are divided into: forming folds; double folded; single-sided, shaped blades designed for making semicircular joints; corner benders and several others. There are also a number of auxiliary tools that greatly facilitate the implementation of repetitive procedures in the process of working with metal, for example,

a spring center punch, like a template, is used when marking metal; using a composter it is very convenient to obtain holes for one or another fastener; A gas soldering iron is used to solder elements in the right places.

Semi-automatic seaming machine ↑

The tool consists of two separate seamers, which are driven by the pulling force of the roofer. The principle of operation of the tool is the same as that of a manual grab - a double fold is formed in two passes. Particularly effective when installing seam roofs on long slopes, over 10 m.

This type of seaming machine has a number of advantages:

its productivity is three times higher than that of a manual device. Guaranteed high quality seam. it is possible to adjust the metal thickness: from 0.4 to 0.7 mm. completely safe for polymer coating: provides rebate height: from 25 to 35 mm.

User manual

In order for the unit to use the functions inherent in the design as efficiently as possible, you should adhere to the rules for its operation:

Before putting the smoke generator into operation, select a surface and install the unit. The surface must be flat and reliably protected from fire, since not only ash, but also unburned coals (so-called heat) often spill into the holes in the generator.
When placing wood chip fuel in the housing compartment, try to first place thin twigs and chips (10-20 mm) on the bottom, then you can use larger material. You shouldn’t get carried away with creating “wells” or loading branches that are too large.
When using sawdust as fuel (they will lie denser than wood chips, branches or wood chips, which will slow down or even completely block the exit of smoke), place a steeply curled spring on the pipe that is located at the top (thinner) (you can use a perforated steel pipe ). The quality of the material is not particularly important, the main thing is to choose the right diameter (about 20 mm). The spring can be “tightly” fixed or made removable.
After this, we place the products prepared for smoking into the smokehouse.
Close the lid tightly. We connect the compressor with the fitting through the chimney, and the smokehouse with the generator.
We ignite the fuel and start the compressor.
Open the ash pan flap.
When wood smoldering reaches an average level, if necessary, we adjust the air supply with the compressor and the ash damper.

It is absolutely not difficult to make a smoke generator with a damper and an ash pan with your own hands if you have welding skills. This does not require any expensive materials or special tools (except welding). If you want to try cold smoking, be sure to make such a unit, it has excellent traction and allows you to get high-quality smoked products.

Rare shot

Alexey’s father was a stove maker, and when Pavlov faced the question of career guidance, he also decided to do something unusual. From the list offered, he chose the specialty of a tinsmith-ventilator - according to him, a very rare one. During his eight-month internship, following the results of his training, he ended up working with the mastodons of the tinsmith industry - in a team with “old men” he did ventilation at a large meat-packing plant. Then he learned the basic subtleties of craftsmanship. After six years, he worked in splendid isolation in one of the car parks in his native Pskov - it is difficult to exaggerate the importance of the ventilation system in a gas-filled room. “There were such pipes that you could walk into them on foot at full height,” Alexey recalls the brightest moments.

Then fate threw him into the forge. St. Petersburg was about to turn 300 years old, and the company was fulfilling a large order for the guest residence of Vladimir Putin: for two years, craftsmen made a nine-kilometer fence, which was interrupted by fifteen wrought-iron gates. The hero worked under the supervision of a former jeweler, so the attitude towards beauty in the team was special.

“Then my head began to think differently. Later, having returned to my profession, I began to introduce technical techniques and, when the opportunity presented itself, to artistically design my product.”

Pavlov himself compares the forge to a factory. For example, in addition to Russian orders, a large team sent their products abroad. “Every month we assembled a twenty-ton truck for the USA,” recalls Alexey.

The desire to be an independent creative unit overpowered him, and he went into free swimming. True, life forced me to take a detour – literally: for a year and a half the master was engaged in ferrying cars from abroad. Then everything was as in the saying: there would have been no happiness, but misfortune helped. The legislation has changed, and resale of foreign cars has become difficult and unprofitable. The tin had been waiting for its hero all this time - and it did.

Blower size

To build a stove vent with your own hands, you need to know its usual dimensions. Although there are no standards at all in size, there is one simple rule: the ash pan must be identical in size to the grate.

If the blower is smaller, then the soot will settle on the grate and will not allow air to pass to the flame.

If the ashlar does not have a door, then it is worth installing a drawer or tray. Here the dimensions are more clear. The width of the tray is the same as the distance from edge to edge of the blower. The length should be longer than the firebox.

You need to determine in advance which type of oven is right for you. When you know what exactly you want to cost, then you will find the right sizes for your type of stove. In a matter where there is no exact ideal, there may be room for your imagination.

Furnace appliances

Furnace appliances - doors, water tanks, grates, dampers, views and valves - are made mainly of heat-resistant cast iron.
Cast iron appliances are stronger, more durable, do not burn out or rust. The same stove appliances come in different shapes and sizes, so their exact copy is not given here - the pictures simply show which stove appliance is installed in a certain place in the stove. When purchasing a valve, pay attention to the engine. If the engine moves very freely along the frame (there is a high gap in it), then with strong traction it will begin to rattle. If there is a special hole on the “underside” of the valve, then this valve is good, and the hole, which should be at the bottom when installed, serves to allow soot to spill out, which accumulates behind the engine in the frame.

Ash pan size

Greater than or equal to the grate. There are no standard sizes for the ash pan; however, the length and width of the product must be no less than the dimensions of the grate (otherwise there will be nowhere for the ash to spill out). If the ash pan has the form of a retractable tray, then there is a possibility of error when determining the required length of the product: usually measure the distance from the front of the fireplace to the far edge of the grate. This is incorrect, because during combustion the box is pulled out a little to take in air, and the ash spills past it. As a result, problems arise during cleaning. The length of the drawer should be greater than the distance to the far edge of the grille.

How to make BKP with your own hands

The only secret of such a stove is the sealed firebox door. It can be of any shape, but, as a rule, it is made round or square.

1. From a pipe with a diameter of 200–350 mm (wall 2–4 mm), cut a ring 50–100 mm wide. Align and clean the edges. This element is called a “collar”.

2. From a sheet of 3–4 mm, cut out a circle exactly along the outer diameter of the collar. This will be the door.

3. Based on the dimensions of the furnace, we select the diameter of the air supply channel (air channel - VK). We can conditionally divide household-use BCPs into 2 categories - small (0.13–0.18 cubic meters) and medium (0.18–0.25 cubic meters). For small ones, a diameter of 76 mm will be enough, for medium ones - 102 mm. The size of rectangular channels is calculated through the cross-sectional area S = Pr2.

4. The VC must have an adjusting valve or gate.

Damper:

We cut out a round damper (metal 2–3 mm) that blocks the stroke of the VK with an eye for the diameter of the bolt thread (M10–12). We weld a rod (handle) to it opposite the eyelet.
We weld a nut to the VK pipe parallel to the air flow, flush with the outer edge.
We install the damper on the VK pipe on the bolt through the spring and secure it with a lock nut.

The manufacturing process of the damper is more complex, but in terms of convenience and effect it has no advantages over the above-mentioned damper. It can be copied from a factory copy.

5. Cut a hole in the door for the VK.

Attention! The door opening should not be smaller than the diameter of the VC. The channel itself should be shifted down from the center and its lower edge should be located 20–30 mm from the door cuff.

6. From a strip 2–3 mm thick and 20–30 mm wide, take a segment equal to the circumference of the door.

7. We weld the strip overlay around the circumference of the door.

8. We make a loop device. To do this, in four sections of 60–70 mm strip, we drill one 6–8 mm hole from the edge. We put them on a flat wire pin 6–8 mm long, 100–150 mm long. We weld the strips in pairs to the door and cuff of the firebox.

9. We make a locking device. This element can be arbitrary - an inventory box lock, a motorcycle chain tensioner, or any type of eccentric with a handle. It is convenient and reliable to use a movable threaded tightening. A lock from a milk can will do. The main task is to ensure that the door is pressed against the cuff of the firebox.

10. In the corner on the door formed by the cuff, we place an asbestos cord on a heat-resistant sealant.

Such a hatch can be installed in any potbelly stove or steel tank, resulting in an effective stove. It should be located 100 mm from the bottom of the firebox. That is, there must be at least 10 cm between the bottom of the loading hatch and the bottom of the oven.

The main and most important rule for operating the BKP: at the bottom of the firebox there must always be a layer of ash at least 80 mm thick. Otherwise, the bottom will heat up and soon burn out.

Simple and convenient chimney

The installation of a horizontal channel for exhaust gases is not always convenient, especially when servicing the furnace. We will give a way to arrange it in a simpler and more convenient form:

In the back of the upper wall we cut a round or rectangular hole 20–30 mm smaller than the cross-section of the chimney pipe.
We select a piece of pipe that exceeds this diameter by 20–30 mm and is 40–60 mm long.
We weld it onto the hole in a centered position.

Now any pipe can be installed in this cuff, and dry clay should be filled and compacted into the bosom (the gap formed by the difference in diameters). This will provide reliable protection against smoke leakage and simplify dismantling for maintenance.

Let us remember that one of the functions of a “basic” potbelly stove is the ability to heat water and cook food on the upper wall of the firebox. The BKP with the Buleryan door retains this property - just load more fuel and fully open the VK.

A furnace bulkhead can be the next stage in the modernization of a grateless potbelly stove. This is a heat sink in the form of a thick (5–8 mm) sheet of metal, located immediately under the chimney and covering 2/3 of the firebox area.

Effect. An even greater slowdown in the flow of hot gas. Additional heat accumulation indoors.

To fully implement a long-burning BCP as a stove, you need to add one more element - an injector. This is a hollow tube (or several) with holes inside the firebox, which is located in the front of the stove at the level of the center of the chimney channel.

1 - combustion bulkhead; 2 - injection tubes

Effect. The injector is needed to feed the flame “tongues” with air and afterburn the fuel. It is located in a place where the combustion process has not yet been completed, and smoke formation is about to begin. By supplying oxygen (air) to this point, we fuel the combustion reaction, the heat from which warms the upper wall. This principle is also used in modern pyrolysis solid fuel boilers.

The injector “automatically” comes into action upon contact with a flame. This becomes possible only if the hearth is located in the front of the firebox. In the long-burning mode (when the hearth is closer to the center of the firebox), it remains unused.

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Schemes of a wood-burning stove for a summer residence

Iron potbelly stoves used in the country come in different sizes, shapes, structural features of the combustion chamber, with or without a blower.

They are divided according to the type of work and design:

to regular (single-chamber);
to channel;
long burning of fuel.

Reference. Metal stoves, potbelly stoves, are heated with wood, wood chips, brown and hard coal, and peat briquettes. They burn cardboard, sawdust, and dung.

Coal burns slowly, gives a high temperature ( 1500 degrees and above ), because of this the air, walls, ceiling, and cutting become very hot. That’s why coal is rarely used in country houses . wood, bark and wood chips in potbelly stoves . Let's consider options for potbelly stoves that the owner of a garage or cottage can make with his own hands.

Single-chamber potbelly stoves consist of a solid metal body, which houses a ash pan (ash box), a grate, a combustion chamber, and a hole for a pipe (chimney). An example of such a potbelly stove is a cast iron Soviet army stove, the simplest single-chamber iron stove for heating change houses.

Photo 1. Diagram of a single-chamber stove-stove. The main parts of the device: firebox, ash pan, chimney pipe.

The body of a factory-produced potbelly stove has the shape of a rectangular parallelepiped with dimensions:

height - 65.6 cm ;
length (depth) - 50.2 cm ;
width - 35.8 cm ;
height of stands (legs) - 19.4 cm;
the height of the pipe intended for installing the chimney is 6 cm;
chimney diameter - 11 cm.

The stove weighs 36 kilograms , the thermal power of the potbelly stove is 5 kW. The heater body is made of steel sheet 6 mm . There is a solid steel door for loading fuel, and a drawer (ash pan) for removing ash. Firewood is used as fuel.

This small potbelly stove is designed to heat a room up to 60-70 square meters . The flat top of the body is used as a hob. Holes for the burners are cut out in it, which are closed with rings of standard sizes.

A potbelly stove with a duct firebox has a more complex design. Steel plates ( from one to two ) are welded inside the firebox, which form smoke channels. The channels slow down the movement of flue gases.

Reference. Factory heating and cooking iron stoves are ducted in design.

Long-burning metal potbelly stoves are large in size. Air is supplied to the combustion chamber not only through the blower, but also through the side gearboxes.

In simplified versions, there is no blower, and holes are made in the door, the width of which is adjusted with a special latch.

The firebox is filled two-thirds full. After the fuel ignites, the air flow is reduced by closing the ash pan and opening the upper regulators.

The firewood smolders slowly in the top layer and releases heat for several hours.

Combustion chamber operation

If you want to make a potbelly stove with your own hands, you should consider each of its components in more detail. As for the combustion chamber, it is important to provide a more impressive area of outer surfaces. This will provide better heat transfer. It is important to make the chamber bottom area as large as possible. This will ensure that more fuel can be stored inside. That is why cylindrical products are often mounted horizontally. When making a stove, you must be guided by the minimum bottom, which is 350 x 250 mm.

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How to make the perfect galvanized pipe with your own hands: step-by-step instructions

Good day, dear guest!

The first sheet with galvanic coating came off the assembly line of one of the British factories back in 1867. True, at that time the metal was covered exclusively with gold and silver. But before the First World War, the production of parts with a protective layer of zinc began to be produced, and since then they have been incredibly popular.

This is not surprising - zinc extends the life of iron by 20-30 times. Products made of galvanized steel are durable, do not rust, and behave in everyday life no worse than stainless steel, although they are much cheaper.

In today’s article, I propose to pay more attention to this modest material and tell you how to make a galvanized pipe with your own hands.

Making a stove from a can using oil

A potbelly stove using oil with your own hands can be made from a can. This technology is one of the simplest. The device will be very effective in operation. Installation work consists of attaching the legs to the body and arranging a smoke exhaust pipe. To work, you will need not only a can, but also wire, as well as working tools. The wire will be used for the grate. As for the pipe, it will form the basis of the chimney.

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Conclusion

Perhaps these are the main points you need to know to design your own ash pit. Making a furnace ashtray is quite simple. Having information about the dimensions, necessary elements, components and materials, you can easily make this device at home.

Remember, before you make a stove with your own hands, make sure that it will be safe for you and others. A proper chimney and well-made ash pan are the foundation of a good stove. Therefore, it is worth consulting with professionals, seeing what store-bought versions of stoves look like, and reading about the different types.

Having figured out what an ash pan is, what size it is and what it consists of, what materials are needed for it, what the construction instructions look like, what tool to use and how to clean it later, you can be calm about the correct construction of such a device.

Building a stove is a very labor-intensive process, so be patient and get to work!

A potbelly stove is a heating structure made of steel, cast iron, or a combination of steel and cast iron .

Such stoves are installed in country houses, garages, construction sheds and other temporary premises. Potbelly stoves are also used for heating greenhouses.

Roofing tools that a roofer needs for a successful roof installation

For high-quality roof construction, professional tools are required, and for some types of work, modern equipment is also required. Their range is constantly updated with more advanced devices. Each of them is designed to make roofing work easier and to make it better.

Roofing tools are:

manual. A roofing tinsmith's hand-held roofing tools, such as special scissors or pliers, are excellent for working with steel or copper, but for soft roofing a roofing knife is required. All hand tools for roofing work are convenient and easy to use. semi-automatic roofing tool. They are widely used when laying long picture panels. For example, with the help of seaming machines, you can productively and quite simply roll up seams and at the same time ensure complete tightness of the seams. electric roofing tools. They are in maximum demand for the installation of seam coverings. Roll forming equipment is equally effective when working with both rolled material and a coated polymer protective and decorative layer.

So that the stove gives heat, don’t forget about the vent

Making a stove with your own hands or with the help of a specialist is not so difficult, knowing the device and some design features. Today we will not talk about all the components of the stove, but we will talk about the vent for the stove. Everyone understands that any fuel (coal, peat, firewood) has some kind of residue when burned. A portion of combustion products is removed as smoke, soot and soot through the chimney, and some, such as ash and ash, remain in the combustion chamber.

So, the blower is the main air chamber of a rectangular oven. Air passes through its door, which cools the grates and supplies the firebox with oxygen. In addition, it serves as a place where ash and other fuel waste are collected. They can be removed through the door, so it is worth considering its comfortable dimensions.

The standard dimensions inside the chamber for a brick kiln are 25 × 38 cm. Other dimensions are possible. But in any case, the blower door should be smaller than the chamber itself. It is laid on the second row of the stove masonry.

The firebox must, due to its purpose, withstand high temperatures. This design promotes precise, uniform air distribution and absorption. The ash pan is equipped with two openings: the front one is a ash pit with a blower door and the top one is covered with a grate.

The ash pit or ash chamber is located immediately under the firebox grate. As I already said, it is necessary to collect ash and regulate the flow of air into the firebox. Such a chamber is often equipped with a blower. Its height is about 14 cm. It is worth remembering that after each firebox you need to clean the chamber from combustion products.

The ash pan is usually equipped with a metal tray. Ash from the firebox ends up in the ash pit through the grates. The air enters the fire through the grate and this ensures efficient combustion of the fuel.

The blower can be made with or without doors. To increase the air flow, just open the door slightly. And, conversely, to reduce the intensity of the fire, cover it. If your structure is so complicated that doors were not provided, no problem. In this case, you can increase the traction by pulling out the drawer. To prevent ash and ash from spilling out, the blower should be made inclined.

As for the size of the ash pan. As I already said, there are no identical stoves and fireplaces, so there simply cannot be uniform blower sizes. The main thing to take into account is that the ash pan must match the size of the grate. If you do less, most of the ash will remain on the grate, and this will prevent air from reaching the fire.

If the vent is not originally equipped with doors, install a drawer or tray. To calculate the size of this device, you need to know that the width of the tray should be equal to the distance from the wall to the wall of the blower, and the length should exceed the dimensions of the firebox. Why? Yes, because to increase traction you will need to pull out this drawer or tray, otherwise the ash will spill out and accumulate at the back wall.

As for the material for the ash pan. We remember that it needs to withstand high temperatures. The best option is steel with a thickness of 0.8 mm. For blowers with doors, the presence of a drawer is not necessary. The ash pit is made from the same brick as the stove. It would be better if it was fireproof.

It is clear that the vent needs to be cleaned periodically. A tray or box is made for these purposes - this will simplify the cleaning process. You just have to remove and pour out the ash that has accumulated during the combustion process. Even if this device is not provided, the cleaning process will not take much time. But follow safety precautions. Wait until the ash cools down and then start cleaning. It's a little more time-consuming, but not super difficult. Prepare a brush, dustpan and bucket. By the way, there is a special vacuum cleaner for fireplaces. It will ideally help cope with dust, ash and ash.

This concerns the designs of the furnace. But there are different opinions and approaches to the issue of the need for blowers in fireplaces. Today you can choose designs to suit every taste. It is possible to choose with or without a blower.

In small stoves and fireplaces, instead of a blower door, it is sometimes advisable to use an ash box in the form of a scoop. You can prepare it yourself. The body is cut out from a sheet of steel 0.6-1 mm thick. The sides and edges are folded along the marked lines. Holes should be drilled for the rivets. The body is riveted, then the front wall is mounted to it using rivets. Its top is turned away in the fold directions, creating a comfortable handle of sufficient width.

A sign that the furnace element has been completed correctly is that our completed ash box will fit into the ash pit so that its front wall tightly covers the ash hole.

In any case, to achieve high efficiency of the furnace, the required amount of air must enter the firebox. Its lack will lead to incomplete combustion of fuel and loss of heat. In addition, it leads to the deposition of a considerable amount of soot in the furnace channels. Even a small amount of deposited soot can affect the thermal conductivity of the furnace walls. Under no circumstances should the stove be lit with the ash pan closed in smoldering combustion mode.

If there is insufficient air flow, the flame will have a dark red hue. This is also evidenced by the presence of dark smoke from the chimney. The humming noise in the firebox and the bright white color of the fire indicate excess air. This is also not good, because excess air simply passes through the oven, cooling it. In this case, it is worth closing the blower door and the valve.

At the best combustion mode, the color of the flame should be light yellow and the smoke from the stove should be colorless.

These are the main points you need to know about the furnace vent. With this I say goodbye to you. Until next time.

Firebox

Not only fuel burns in the firebox, but also chemicals released during fuel combustion - gases, resins - are burned with it. And the water contained in the fuel is converted into dry steam, which determines whether there will be soot streaks on the stove. To prevent gases and tars from turning into damp soot that settles in the flue ducts, and to keep the steam dry, there must be enough free space above the fuel in the firebox in which lighter fuel particles burn. Therefore, in heating stoves in which the firebox is arranged at the entire height of the stove, there is almost no soot.

The width of the firebox sometimes reaches 38 cm. In indoor stoves, the best firebox is 26 cm wide (according to the size of the door). Practice shows that if you make a firebox 26 cm wide and 31 cm long with steep side walls, and bevel up to 2 cm at the front and rear walls, then the coal (anthracite) in such a firebox burns completely. Coal does not bake well, so a firebox with a more expanded shape for coal is worse - in such a firebox, little air flows to the walls. A funnel-shaped firebox with a large bevel is good for firewood and brushwood: as the fuel burns, it settles down toward the grate. In a firebox with a stove, there should be a space above the fuel formed by two rows of masonry (at least).

Installation of a grate for fuel: a - wood; b - coal; 1 — blower chamber; 2 — blower door; 3 - grate

The grate separates the firebox and the blower chamber. For wood fuel, the grate is installed to the rear wall of the stove, slightly raised. Practice shows that it is not necessary to lift the hearth under the firewood, since the rise is formed over time from growing ash. Under the coal, the grate is placed exactly horizontally one or two rows below the fire door. It is good to assemble it from piece cast iron grates covering the entire width of the firebox - up to 26 cm. The solid grate is fragile and therefore soon fails. Individual grates are stronger; they are specially produced for heating with coal. Any fuel burns on such grates. For brown (Moscow region) coal, the grate is installed two rows below the combustion door, so there will be at least three rows of masonry above the blower window.

Tin work DIY tin products

The joining of the edges of thin sheet metal is most often done in a lock - by clamping one edge to the other, but occasionally other methods are used, which may be needed more often in the work of a young master. These are the methods.

Connection methods

The edges of the sheets can simply be soldered. It is clear that this will be the most fragile method, especially if the metal sheets are thin. This will be a butt connection (1). Such a connection can be used where strength is not required, but an inconspicuous connection is required. In thicker sheets, the butt joint is made with teeth (2).

This is actually done not by tinsmiths, but by coppersmiths - craftsmen who make copper utensils, tanks, pipes, caps, etc. A butt joint can be made more durable by soldering a plate (3) on the inside. This will be a butt with an overlay. A more durable connection is an overlap (4). One edge is overlapped with the other, the seam is soldered or fastened with rivets. But this connection already has a protruding edge, which is not always convenient.

You can bend the edges at one edge and at the other, hook them and compress them with blows of a mallet. This will already be a simple lock (5).

The most common connection method is a double lock (6). It's done like this. One piece's edge is bent at a right angle, the second's edge is also bent, but in the other direction, and pressed against the piece, and then this edge is bent at a right angle in the opposite direction. Both bent edges are connected to each other, bent towards the first edge, and the seam is pierced with a mallet. On the reverse side it will be smoother, which must be taken into account when connecting in this way.

How to make gutters and roofing elements from sheet metal with your own hands

The sequential progress of work is schematically depicted in the following figure:

Double lock (diagram)

All kinds of tin products are most often connected with a double lock.

Occasionally, tinsmiths use connections using rivets. However, this method is more often used when it is necessary to rivet a handle, eyelet, strip, etc. Occasionally, rivets are used to strengthen the seams into an overlay and a simple lock. They are usually riveted with small rivets, preferably with wide flat heads, using a cold method.

For rough work, tinsmiths prefer rivets rolled from a piece of tin. To make them, you need to have a piece of iron with holes of different diameters, or a riveter. A diamond-shaped piece of tin is rolled up into a pound using a hammer or pliers, inserted into a riveter, into a hole of a suitable diameter, and the head is riveted.

These rivets are soft, but, of course, do not have the neat appearance of solid rivets.

Tin rivet

Almost all work with thin metal is based on the plasticity of the metal, its ability to bend and flatten. But the master must skillfully use his tool, otherwise these same properties will be detrimental to the work. How and why will be seen later.

The main and very first job of the master is the ability to bend the fold, in other words, to bend the edge of the sheet. The work is simple, but also very responsible, since further processes depend on it. It is necessary to bend the fold for a variety of needs: for seam connections, for edges, for inserting bottoms, and others. It is necessary to ensure that the metal only bends, but does not flatten in any way. If the metal is flattened in the bend, it will expand. The edge of the fold will come out curved and the surface of the sheet will warp.

In rough work, where the fold is bent wide, this has almost no significance. But where greater precision and grace are required, it will be very noticeable. Let us explain with an example what we can achieve. Suppose we want to make a tube out of tin and connect it with a double lock. They bent the folds with an iron hammer, began to roll up the tube and connect the seam, but it turns out that the seam is very difficult to connect; the folds turned out to be bent due to riveting the metal with a hammer.

Riveted seam

Therefore, folds should always be bent with a wooden mallet on the sharp iron edge of a crowbar, iron strip or corner of a scraper.

The work happens in this order. First of all, draw a fold line with a thicknesser. The thicker the metal and the rougher the work, the wider the fold can be taken (10-20 mm, on thin sheet metal the fold is 3-5 mm). Place the sheet on the edge of the scraper (or devices replacing it) along the fold line, and with quick and precise blows with a mallet, beat off this line, first at the ends, and then along the entire length of the fold.

Rebate

Then they bend the edge of the fold at a right angle, place it with the outer side on the anvil and straighten it with the inner side with blows of the mallet.

Let's assume that you need to bend the fold of a tin cylinder.

Making a fold on a cylinder

It is clear that the diameter of the outer edge of the folded fold will be larger than the diameter of its inner circumference. Consequently, the metal must be riveted along the entire fold, stronger at the outer edge and weaker towards the cylinder.

The fold must be bent with an iron hammer. The cylinder is taken in the left hand, the width of the bend is marked from the inside with a thicknesser and applied to the edge of the support or crowbar at an obtuse angle, after which it is struck on the future fold with the toe of a hammer, beating the fold line and riveting the edge. Light blows of the hammer are directed so as to rivet the outer edge more strongly.

Having gone around the full circle, reduce the angle of inclination of the cylinder, placing it steeper towards the anvil, and continue working in the same order. It is repeated again and again, decreasing the angle of inclination to a straight line. With such gradual knocking out, the fold will be bent at a right angle, and it will not burst anywhere. The bent fold is placed on the slab and straightened with blows of a mallet.

To such a cylinder with a rebate, you can already attach the bottom with a double lock, only at the circle for the bottom you need to bend the rebate or solder the bottom with solder.

Rebate fold on mug

Just as the fold on a cylinder is bent, this is also done when the edge of a tin product needs to be strengthened and made thicker by rolling wire into it. The work is carried out in the same order, but with a mallet and without beating off the sharp edge of the fold. The bend should come out smooth, you need to make a flap on the metal, calculating the width of this flap based on the thickness of the wire that will fit there.

Rolling up the edge

The width should be approximately three times the diameter of the wire, adding a little for the thickness of the metal. When the fold is bent at a right angle, it is bent back with a mallet, turning the cylinder on a round anvil. Then they place it on the stove, insert the wire and secure it with a few blows of the mallet on the lapel.

Using a mallet on a round anvil and a plate, the lapel is finally pressed and smoothed. Turning the product over with the edge up, straighten the rolled edge on top. If the lapel turns out to be not wide enough, it is now very easy to fix it by piercing it from above with a mallet and pulling the blow outward.

Metal sauna stove design

Metal stoves are more primitive than brick stoves for the following reasons: they are small in size, in fact it is a firebox with a closely spaced thin body, and besides, metal conducts heat well, but practically does not accumulate it. Complex structures have a place, but only in case of increasing the size, internal lining and other methods of increasing the inertia of the material.

Therefore, the simplest metal heater will be a box with a grate inside, separating the ash pan from the firebox. The heater will be located above the firebox or to the side of it, and a water tank can also be located.

Below is an example of a fairly simple stove with an attempt to create smoke circulation and options for the location of the tank and heater, as well as a protective screen, the installation of which is clearly demonstrated in a separate publication:

Metal furnace with lined fuel core

Lining is the lining of the inside of the stove with fireclay or simply refractory bricks. At the same time, the inertia increases sharply, and with it the heating time. So, if you need to overheat the steam room in half an hour, the lining will be superfluous.

We show the simplest diagram with a firebox lining and a closed heater:

Options for placing a water tank on a metal stove

You have already seen above that you can simply place the tank on top of the stove and everything will heat up. But you can do it differently.

Below are diagrams for combining a heater and a tank , from the simplest ones, where the bucket is buried in stones or the heater is placed in a separate container where stove gases enter, and the tank stands directly above the fire (the water will boil before the stones heat up) to variations on the topic of rational use of the top of the stove, where you can separate the space for the tank horizontally or vertically, or you can go around the heater on both sides, leaving an air pocket on one of the opposite sides, which, as they say, promotes heat exchange. Full information is provided in the corresponding article.

Options for the location of the tank and heater:

Yes, and of course, whenever there is a need for hot water, you can replace the tank with a heat exchanger of one type or another . If you are interested in learning more about this, read this article.

Metal heater made of pipe

On our website you can find material that tells you how to make such a heater. Here we will only present the diagrams themselves with some comments.

So, the owner has two options for a pipe stove:

Usually they take a pipe of half a meter diameter. The figure shows that the pipe can be lined from the inside (or you can leave it as is, then it will burn out faster). The fireclay along the walls is shown in yellow.

The owner is also free to choose a stove with a blind hearth or ash pit. The difference between them was discussed above. But pay attention to the oven door with a blind bottom - in order not to keep it open, holes are drilled in it, which provide air flow if the pipe at the top is not blocked by a damper. If you lengthen the stove a little by using the blower, the draft will be regulated by opening the blower door . Then the holes become redundant.

The water tank is shown in both pictures, but is actually optional. Some make it lower by welding a metal box with a lid on the side of the stove - this is for ease of pouring in the absence of cold water supply in the bathhouse.

The horizontal stove has a completely different structure - it has an open . This is a welded basket for stones - you can’t get good steam with such a stove.

Yes, and in the picture we depicted the grate (under the flame) as recognizable, but in reality its grate is perpendicular to the direction you see here.

The water tank is welded to the back wall of the stove.

Adviсe

If there are panel or wood walls in the house, install the stove at a distance of 1 meter from them.
Be sure to install the chimney, preferably from one section.
When running a pipe through a wall, install a brick thermal barrier. Do not use concrete for these purposes; it crumbles quickly.
For a garage, a potbelly stove for working out is better suited, so don’t rush to throw away your car rims.
Do not place the oven near flammable materials.
the section of the pipe just above the roof from non-flammable material, so the stove will cool much more slowly.
Think carefully about the ventilation system; there should be no burning in the room.
Lay the floor and walls near the structure with bricks or facing material, the stove is a fire hazard. The same applies to the chimney, the distance to the walls and ceiling should be at least 1.2 meters.
Place a metal fence around the device for safety reasons .
the grate from cast iron grates in a set, so they will be easier to pull out of the firebox.
Install all parts of the chimney only at the top of the structure; they must withstand high temperatures of over 300 degrees.
Treat the seams after welding with a durable and high-quality sealant.
Do not clean the pipe with a brush or metal objects; the pipe walls can quickly become leaky.
When installing a chimney , make an anti-rain canopy so that rain moisture will not get inside the pipe.