Oddly enough, even in a country as rich in timber as Russia, not everyone can afford to build a full-fledged log house for a bathhouse. However, we have quite a lot of examples of folk art, among which there are bathhouses made of straw, dry branches, wood logs, bottles, etc.
The price of such structures is incomparably lower than the price of traditional buildings, so we decided to dwell on this topic in more detail.
In the hands of a master, any available material can turn out to be construction material.
Choosing a barn project
As a rule, sheds are purely above-ground premises, which is why compacted platforms, a screw or columnar foundation can be used as a foundation for them. Examples of such projects are presented below.
Shed made of profiled pipe (assembled on gussets and corners) with cladding and roofing made of corrugated sheets, without insulation, on a concrete site
Wooden barn with a gable roof (on one side the overhang is increased) and a vestibule-porch
Shed on a wooden frame with a pitched roof, windows on a columnar foundation
However, often in addition to a room for storing various things above ground level, an underground room is also required. In this case, the construction of a shed becomes more complicated, since it is necessary to dig a foundation pit for the basement (cellar) and thoroughly protect the walls located below ground level from ground moisture.
Barn with basement
The building itself can be either wooden or frame, or capital - made of foam or gas blocks. The walls of above-ground sheds are also made of blocks; in this case, a strip foundation is required.
The choice of a specific project depends on the needs and capabilities of the future owners.
Foundation
Bathhouse with a gazebo under one roof
To ensure maximum durability and rigidity, polycarbonate greenhouses must be attached to a fixed base. Considering the small mass of this structure, we can limit ourselves to using a point foundation, which is made from any strong material. This could be timber, brick, aerated concrete blocks, and so on.
A distinctive advantage of a timber foundation is its affordable price, despite which it is capable of supporting greenhouses weighing up to 120 kg. In order to prevent soil erosion, as well as to protect plants from sudden temperature changes, it is best to bury it in the ground.
There is no need to completely wrap the beam in film, since the structure will quickly become unusable due to the condensation that collects. To prevent the supporting pillars from being washed away by water, it is necessary to place a cushion of sand or crushed stone under them.
One of the most popular foundations today are timber foundations, for which old sleepers can be used. The main advantage of this material is that it can last at least 40 years even in conditions of very high humidity.
The sleepers must be laid in a small trench so that the top edges are level with the ground and can be secured with construction staples. Piles for such a foundation can be made from concrete, blocks and bricks.
If the greenhouse is on a metal structure, then it will be necessary to install a strip foundation. The main disadvantage of concrete is that it is a rather poor conductor of heat, so it takes an extremely long time to warm up, which is not very good in severe and winter cold. That is why such foundations can be erected only in those rooms that will be distinguished by the presence of artificial heating.
Insulation of a bathhouse ceiling with sawdust
Quite common methods include insulating the bathhouse ceiling with sawdust. This material is especially recommended for use where the bathhouse will be used by elderly people and children. It is the safest.
However, you should know that using sawdust exclusively can also be fraught - uncovered scattering of sawdust:
- fire hazard (any spark can cause a fire);
- too dirty (a draft can scatter sawdust throughout the bathhouse).
It is best to use sawdust mixed with clay or cement. The advantages of clay are described above, and sawdust combined with cement provides a reliable and strong screed on the ceiling.
Common options include a layer of sawdust covered with a layer of earth on top. This guarantees protection from possible fire, and the layering guarantees high insulating properties.
Foundation
When the question arises: do you need a foundation for polycarbonate greenhouses, the answer is unequivocal - yes. And also of good strength, since such greenhouses are easily blown away by the wind.
The foundation can be manufactured in the following types:
Tape option. These foundations for buildings are expensive, but the most reliable, serving for many years. If the greenhouse is intended for year-round use, the foundation is laid in depth, slightly deeper than the freezing point of the soil.
Concrete-brick type. The most common option: optimal in terms of cost, complexity and production time. You can lay it out with small concrete foundation blocks and fill it with mortar.
The building material can be ordinary bottles, stacked in rows and filled with concrete. This creates an incredibly warm and economical foundation. Strength will suit even serious buildings.
Pile frame production. This type of foundation is not frost-resistant, but is quite reliable and will last a long time.
Advantages and disadvantages
Properly using all the advantages and, if possible, leveling out the existing disadvantages - perhaps this is the main task of a person who undertakes the independent construction of a frame bathhouse. If you have studied the projects of bathhouses made of foam blocks and seen what shortcomings this material has, do not think that everything is so rosy with frame structures. Let's not mislead you: there are disadvantages in every business, and therefore the best way to deal with them is to carefully study them. Actually, let's start with them.
Flaws
- possible shrinkage of the bath over time;
- the need for high-quality insulation and the associated increase in costs;
- material and time costs for finishing - both internal and external;
- careful care and careful use.
It is no coincidence that we started with the minuses. So you will immediately see the pitfalls that the construction of a frame bath is associated with
And if, after getting to know them, they seem to you not like large cobblestones, but like small pebbles, then pay attention to the following advantages of the chosen type of construction
Advantages
- lightweight construction does not require grueling preparation of a solid foundation;
- retain heat well, but only with high-quality insulation;
- attractively cheap assembly;
- environmental friendliness and resistance to vibrations in the earth's crust;
- the ability to build a frame bathhouse in the shortest possible time, even in difficult weather conditions.
If the advantages still outweigh the possible disadvantages, and you still want to build a bathhouse of this type, then proceed to the next stage.
Mini-sauna in a country house of 6 acres - myth or reality?
What are the usual reasons why a summer resident does not decide to build a bathhouse on his property? Of course, this is the lack of funds for its construction and the necessary space on the site. As for a mini sauna in the country, it can be an ideal solution to these two issues. Let's try to figure out whether it is worth undertaking such construction or whether it might be easier to purchase a ready-made one and install it on the site.
Let's start with the fact that buying a ready-made room for a bathhouse is an easier solution, but at the same time, the summer resident faces another problem - after all, he really needs a budget option. And this cannot in any way include the acquisition of a finished building. It is for this reason that today we will consider the construction of a bathhouse with our own hands. Although we will definitely dwell on the cost of ready-made ones, but a little later.
Everyone puts a different meaning into the concept of “small bathhouse in the country”. After all, for some, even a plot of 20 acres is considered small. But we will consider the average garden plots of 6-8 acres. This means that the bathhouse on them should not occupy more than 4-6 m in length and 2-3 m in width. First of all, we’ll figure out what bathhouses can be like on a summer cottage, what they can be built from, and only after that we’ll decide how to do all the necessary work.
Tips for finishing and caring for wood
In addition to treatment with an antiseptic composition, it is desirable to further protect the wooden fence from external influences. For finishing wood located outdoors, there are the following methods of exterior finishing:
- Painting with waterproof acrylic compounds in 2 coats of primer.
- If there are no special requirements for the appearance of the fence, then the wood can be impregnated with waste oil or bitumen. For fear of getting dirty from head to toe, local thieves are unlikely to want to climb through such a fence onto your property.
- Cover with homemade Swedish paint, which protects against pests and precipitation no worse than antiseptics.
- For gourmets, it is suitable to open up wooden surfaces with several layers of varnish over an artificial blackening made using stain.
Beautifully painted fence with a canopy
The ends of the slabs can be beautifully cut and then painted
Recently, Swedish paint has gained popularity; it has a remarkable red color and can be prepared with your own hands. You will need the following components:
- regular salt - 250 g;
- red lead - 240 g;
- copper sulfate (otherwise known as copper sulfate) – 250 g;
- drying oil - 230 ml;
- flour - 500 g.
Fence painted with Swedish paint
Pour the flour into water (3 liters) and cook the paste. Strain it through cheesecloth, add drying oil, then salt, red lead and vitriol, while heating the mixture over low heat. At the end, add another 1.5 liters of water and mix well. The predicted consumption of Swedish paint is 200-250 g/m2 surface area.
Crafts from slab
The original interior can be supplemented with crafts that will become a functional addition and will delight you with an unusual design. From pre-processed slab you can make a convenient hanger for the kitchen or hallway. It can have either the simplest design from one flat board, or a more complex device with shelves located on the top and sides. Curly hooks can serve as decorative elements and be arranged in one or several rows.
In a hunting or country house, a picture frame made from slab, or photo frames made from small-diameter branches sawn lengthwise, would look organic. To secure the structure and decorate it, you can use twine or braided rope, depending on the size of the frame. Also, a wide processed slab can become a material for making a decorative pot or flower tub.
A wide slab can be used as a base for panels or shelves (in order not to overload the structure, you can make them glass) for small items. If you hang the boards horizontally on ropes, you can use them as shelves. They can be single or arranged in several tiers.
If you use your imagination, you can create unusual crafts by combining materials. The slab goes well with timber and glass. For decoration, you can use branches of different thicknesses, pebbles, pine cones, artificial flowers, berries, and greens. Depending on the design and style of the interior, furniture and crafts can be organically integrated by choosing the method and materials for wood processing.
Varieties
The bathhouse can be built both winter and summer. In winter, the room will warm up well at an outside temperature of minus ten degrees. Even if there is wind, it will not penetrate inside. There is a stove inside with stones on it. They retain heat in the room for a long time. In addition, you can make a portable heater in the bathhouse. Make it from an old metal bucket. Attach a wire rack instead of the bottom. Place small cobblestones in it and heat the bucket with them on the fire. Then take it to the bathhouse. Spray water on these cobblestones. Pre-soak the broom in hot water.
Remember! The heated heater must be placed on a metal tray. Be careful when handling heated stones.
How to make a table from a slab with your own hands
Practice shows that even in the open air, a wooden table, provided proper care, can reliably serve for many years. When using a slab, you can make original furniture for the garden or home. You can combine the material with timber or solid logs or thick branches. If you show your imagination, such a table will become a real decoration.
For work you may need:
- a grinding machine for polishing the surface (alternatively, you can use sandpaper for these purposes);
- drill for drilling holes;
- a jigsaw or hacksaw if necessary to saw the slab;
- screwdrivers (for places with difficult access it is worth using short models).
A ruler and a small building level will also come in handy.
Standard manufacturing technology may vary slightly depending on the characteristics of the selected model (size, shape of the countertop, design). When using a slab to make furniture, you should select the boards in advance so that they fit tightly together. To determine the amount of material, the product is detailed, taking into account the thickness of the slab and the method of its processing.
The following sequence of actions is taken as a basis.
- Design. To make the design look aesthetically pleasing, it is worth making a drawing, foreseeing in advance the types of connections, their location, and types of fastenings. Based on the data obtained, materials are selected.
- Marking, cutting wood for all structural parts from which the table will subsequently need to be assembled.
- Preparation of the slab. Choose well-dried wood. To extend the service life of the table, it is advisable to remove the bark and sand the surface, removing irregularities and burrs.
- Preparation of holes in jumpers, inserts for connecting parts. The diameter of the fastener must be larger than the hole.
- Making a table top. The number of boards depends on the width of the material. To secure them, 2 jumpers are enough.
- Manufacturing of supports. Their upper part is cut at an angle of 45°.
- Assembly. All screws must be countersunk and covered with plugs.
- Final sanding of the table.
- Treatment with a primer, antiseptic, after they are completely dry, varnishing is performed.
To design a table that can comfortably seat the whole family, it is important to determine the optimal size of the tabletop. 3 people can comfortably accommodate if the furniture size is 60x90 cm
For 6 people, a table of 90x120 cm or larger is sufficient, if the installation location and available materials allow.
Forms
A distinctive feature of a polycarbonate greenhouse, which distinguishes it qualitatively from greenhouses and other similar structures, is its ability to maintain heat. To heat the greenhouse, natural sources are used, including the sun, vapors from manure or biological waste.
In order for the steam to be covered as well as possible, it is necessary to reduce the amount of heated space. In addition, for working with plants, it is necessary to provide the presence of folding hatches.
The main advantage of the greenhouse is that everything here is built on artificial heating, so the height of the structure can be much higher than the height of a person.
Among the most popular and in-demand forms of polycarbonate greenhouse structures on the market, several types can be distinguished:
Arched polycarbonate greenhouses. This form is considered optimal, as it provides a high level of comfort when starting and using. Assembly is carried out by bending polycarbonate sheets and gluing them to the frame, making it quite easy and comfortable for people to move inside the greenhouse. The presence of an arched roof allows snow and other precipitation not to linger.
Stage two. Hemming the floor beams
Start work by filing the ceiling. The algorithm of actions is given below.
Step 1. To hem the ceiling beams, use boards about 2.5-3 cm thick (the specific figure depends on the pitch between the beams). Ideally, the board should be tongue-and-groove or with a quarter, and it must be planed and dry, even if it costs more than an unplaned edged one.
Step 2. On top of the fixed vapor barrier, nail the boards completely with nails 10 cm deep or screw them with screws 5-6 cm long (2 pieces at each fastening point).
False ceiling installation
Treat boards and beams with an antiseptic and fire retardant before starting installation work. This will protect the wood from pests, fungi, and also reduce its flammability.
edged board
Bioprotective tinted antiseptic
Interior work
The bathhouse consists of two identical compartments - a changing room (Fig. 2, item 1) and a washing compartment (Fig. 2, item 2). I placed a bench in the locker room and attached hangers to the wooden blocks of the walls. In the washing compartment I installed shelves for bath accessories.
The gap between the polycarbonate walls and the soil along the perimeter was blocked with boards.
For the floor, I installed brick supports on the ground, on which I laid the bars. On top I screwed the floorboards from edged boards 25 mm thick with self-tapping screws. There are no curtains in the bathhouse, only doors: the frame is made of timber, and their fabric is made of polycarbonate. I installed the entrance door to the locker room (Fig. 2, item 3) and the second one to the washing department (Fig. 2, item 4).
Recycling process
Croaker is usually processed in small enterprises, since large producers are not interested in additional labor costs, they usually sell it to smaller ones. Often the processing of slabs is of interest to private owners who do it at home. This is beneficial since expensive complex equipment is not required. It is also worth noting that no regulatory documents regulate the dimensions of the product, so even half a log can be called such material.
Based on the thickness of the material and the available features, the complexity of processing and the purpose of the finished product depend. But, if you have high-quality equipment, you can make a high-quality product even from low-grade material.
Before processing begins, it is necessary to determine the geometric parameters of the board. Its length should not exceed 3 m, since this is the maximum length that most machines are designed for. Next comes the stage of installing the material in the working area, where the upper edge is removed along with the bark. This allows you to achieve a clean and smooth surface, which is suitable for making lining. In some cases, you can only get by by separating the bark. Billets processed in this way are most often used for the construction of fences or temporary buildings.
When the raw materials are of low quality, the best option is to process the slab into wood chips, from which you can produce fuel briquettes or use it as bedding, as well as in the construction industry.
Rain canopy
This is the simplest version of the extension and the most popular.
- Porch canopy - it protects the door material from rain and snow, and at the same time the porch itself. Flexibility and variety of colors allows you to create a structure of any shape, even curved. Moreover, no special equipment is required to bend sheets - wooden templates of the required diameter are enough. The canopy for the polycarbonate bathhouse performs the same role and is designed in the same style as the main building.
- An extension for a car - if the cottage is used only for weekends, there is simply no need to build a garage. An open area near the house, protected from the sun and rain by a transparent structure, will perfectly serve as a summer box for a car.
- Garden awning – permanent or temporary. It is built in the garden, on any attractive site and plays the role of a gazebo. It differs from the latter in its much greater simplicity of design and the absence of a foundation. You can do this option yourself in a couple of hours.
Do-it-yourself camping sauna and stove equipment
You can build a tourist bathhouse yourself, or purchase it partially or completely in specialized stores. The design of such a steam room is simple and usually includes:
- frame;
- canopy;
- bake;
- stones.
The most profitable option, from a financial point of view, is, of course, to build a camp sauna with your own hands. But you can’t do this kind of work spontaneously. Setting up a tourist steam room in nature requires timely preparation.
First, you need a foundation, that is, a frame. Craftsmen can make it in advance from light hollow pipes, and care should be taken to ensure the mobility of such an installation so that it can at least be folded for transportation. The simplest option is a frame made from improvised means. Suitable branches and sticks are already in place, connected to each other with rope or wire in such a way that the simplest stove-heater and a certain number of people can fit in the internal space.
Secondly, it is necessary to build something like a tent, that is, cover the frame with material. It is not recommended to use regular synthetic tents for these purposes, because the fabric from which they are made is not intended for use in high temperatures. A thick tarpaulin or ordinary oilcloth is much more suitable. The material must be strengthened onto the frame in such a way that only one side can be used to enter/exit during further improvement of the bathhouse.
The third, no less important stage is assembling the heater stove. To build a stove, you need to bring stones with you or find them on site. They should be flat, preferably oval in shape and about the size of your palm. Such stones will retain their temperature for a long time and heat up fairly quickly. You can easily fold the stove by alternating stones and sticks, so that at the bottom you get a kind of niche for lighting a fire, and stones are laid around it and on top, which will maintain the temperature. Having assembled the stove, you can start lighting it directly. It should be noted that while the stove is burning, one side of the camping sauna tent should be open to avoid the accumulation of carbon monoxide and smoke.
While the fire is burning and the stones are warming up, you should think about installing a floor for a camp sauna. You can throw pine paws and tree leaves under your feet, organize seating areas, benches and chairs. It is worth maintaining the fire in the hearth until the stones turn red or white. As soon as this happens, you should put out the fire, take the ashes out of the tent and close it hermetically. Now, the camp sauna is ready for use.
So, the construction of a camp bath requires:
- a great desire to take a steam bath in nature;
- homemade preparations in the form of a frame, coal, film or tarpaulin for covering. In the end, you can bring stones for the stove so as not to waste time searching for them;
- improvised means and materials that will be collected on site - logs, sticks, leaves, etc.
Choosing a frame for a bath
The frame of the bathhouse consists of wooden racks 3-3.5 m long with a lower frame made of boards, an upper frame made of hewn poles and braces at the ends of the frame. Then the frame is sheathed on both sides with a hewn slab or well-hewn poles. As the sheathing is completed, its space is filled with cheap dry insulation (sawdust, peat) with the addition of lime or gypsum. In the process of backfilling the walls, the insulation should be lightly compacted layer by layer to prevent its settling and the formation of voids.
Rice. 1. Bathhouse with backfill walls: a – general view; b – plan of the bathhouse; 1 – dressing room; 2 – steam room; 3 – stove-heater; 4 – hot water tank; 5 – support under the floor joist.
Processing business
Croaker is a very cheap material that can often be obtained for free, but products made from it will cost many times more. It can be processed both into finished products and into some intermediate product, for example, planed bars of various sizes or laminated veneer lumber/board.
For example, from a pile of scraps you can select those that are approximately the same in shape, size and thickness, then cut them to the same width and remove the bark from them.
As a result of such processing, you will get a finishing or decorative material, the cost of which is many times higher.
And the remaining waste is crushed into wood chips, from which wood concrete blocks or compressed fuel are then obtained.
Another way to process slabs is to produce various turned or milled products, such as:
- balusters;
- skirting boards and fillets;
- platbands;
- window sills;
- lining board, floorboard, decking;
- cutting boards and coasters;
- figured pillars.
Typically, boards or sawn timber are used to make such products, and the larger the cross-section of the source material, the more expensive it is.
At the same time, the load-bearing capacity, as well as compressive and bending strength, will be at least no worse than that of its solid wood counterpart.
Do you need to build a foundation?
To ensure that the greenhouse is not blown away by a strong gust of wind, and that the entire structure is sufficiently rigid and stable, it is necessary to make a foundation.
This will take very little time and will allow you to easily move the greenhouse to a new location if necessary. Here, as you can see, the greenhouse is installed on a wooden foundation
Here is a simple set of materials that will be required to build a foundation:
- wooden beam 12x12 mm;
- roofing felt;
- wood screws;
- hacksaw;
- roulette;
- antiseptic;
- shovel.
A trench is dug along the perimeter of the structure being erected, its width and depth exceeding the timber by 5-7 mm. Roofing felt is laid in the trench. Next, pieces of timber of the required length are prepared and treated with an antiseptic composition. After this, the timber is laid in the trench, and the edges of the roofing material are wrapped towards the foundation (if necessary, the roofing material can be secured to the timber with a construction stapler). All that remains is to securely fasten the beams with self-tapping screws - the foundation is ready.
Example of a foundation for a greenhouse
How to make a block house from slab yourself
In production, making a block house from slab is not difficult. Specialized machines, in one motion, remove the bark from a rounded surface, cut out a tenon and groove, and also cut moisture-wicking grooves on the reverse side. With independent production, the procedure becomes several times more complicated. It is unlikely that a person who decides to make a block house from slab for himself will have specialized equipment, so he will have to improvise and work with what he has.
This kind of work cannot be called quick and easy, but if you have a router and a table saw, everything will work out. You can work step by step with each board or conveyor; the second method is simpler, so we’ll consider it.
Having assessed the quality and overall dimensions of the original slab, we determine the width of the lamella of the future block house. It is better if the slats are the same, but a slight variation in size can add its own flavor.
We measure the size on the back side of the board, draw a line with a pencil and ruler, and cut the board on both sides using a regular circular saw. Immediately after this, you can do the work with a router, cutting out the tongue-and-groove fastening on both sides. If desired, this procedure can be left for later; it does not matter.
When the boards are cut on both sides, the saw on the machine is set at an angle of 45 degrees and the bark from the side inclined sections is cut off from the slab. After cutting the edge, we determine the height of the board and remove the upper part of the bark with an even cut.
As a result of this processing of the slab, the result is something like a block house with a convenient tongue-and-groove system, but a far from ideal surface. At this stage of work, it is worth temporarily stopping and sending the workpieces to dry in order to avoid problems with cracking and deformation of the finish in the future.
As soon as the future lamella has reached the required humidity, its surface is processed with a plane with a cutting depth of 0.5 to 1.5. The procedure allows you to get rid of sharp corners. Next, the grinding machine comes into play, monotonously and for quite a long time filing down all the unevenness and roughness, turning the angular, roughly cut slab into a perfectly smooth block house. Once the desired result is achieved and the entire surface is smoothly processed, you can begin covering the walls with a block house made of slabs with your own hands.
Construction of a barn frame step by step: detailed instructions
The frame is a structure made up of racks, upper and lower beams, lintels, and inclined jibs. Installation can be done in 2 ways:
- connecting all elements in series;
- using the “platform” method, fastening parts into large sections on the horizontal surface of the subfloor.
For the frame, timber 150x100 mm and dry planed board 150x50 m are prepared. All lumber must be treated with antiseptics and fire retardants.
Fasteners - galvanized screws, nails, bolts, plates, staples. Additionally, you can use wood glue.
Do-it-yourself frame shed, according to step-by-step instructions, is installed in the following order:
- The bottom trim beam is laid on the waterproofing layer along the foundation. Secure with anchors, studs or bolts.
- Install floor joists.
- Starting from the corner, racks are installed in increments of 60 cm, and fastened along the top with a strapping beam.
- The openings are reinforced with boards laid on edge.
- The frame is reinforced with jibs made of boards or perforated steel strips with inserts into the lower and upper horizontal beams.
- The structure is sheathed with finishing materials, windows and doors are installed.
- If necessary, install wooden floors or a concrete screed on the ground, install communications, and carry out interior finishing.
If you use OSB or multi-layer plywood to cover a frame shed with your own hands, jib bars are not required, since rigid sheets give the frame stability. The facing slabs must be staggered with the long side parallel to the foundation.
Selection of building materials
If you decide to build a building made of wood, then you will need the following materials:
- A square beam with a standard size of 15x15 cm or 18x18 cm. Also suitable with dimensions of 20x20 cm.
- Floor covering board with parameters 15x5 cm, length – 4 m.
- Cladding board for arranging ceilings and walls. A lining with a width of 10 cm and a thickness of 2 cm is suitable.
- Vapor barrier material. Films are usually used. They come in two types: polyethylene and polypropylene. They are also divided into single-layer and multi-layer. It’s up to you to decide which type to use in building a bathhouse.
- Waterproofing material. The rolled variety is suitable for baths. For example, roofing felt.
- Insulation for the ceiling. This can be basalt or glass wool, slag wool, ecowool, expanded clay, sawdust, sprayed polyurethane foam, cork boards, extruded polystyrene foam. Mineral wool is considered one of the most common options.
- Sheet asbestos. It will be needed to sheathe wooden walls next to the stove structure and chimney. Thanks to this, high temperatures will not be able to destroy the wood.
- Cement, crushed stone, sand and water are all that is needed to build a reliable foundation.
- Material for roof installation. The choice depends on personal preferences, financial capabilities and the need to maintain a certain style. For roofing, you can use slate or euro slate, metal tiles, flexible bitumen shingles, rolled material, shingles, polycarbonate and even straw. The main thing is that the finished roof fits into the overall appearance of the site.
- Insulation for the space between the rows: jute, tow, moss.
There is no need to purchase materials in advance. If stored improperly, timber can deteriorate: mold, rot, and fungus will appear. It is better to purchase it immediately before starting work.
Save your budget
If you have a small budget, you can save on several points. Such savings will not affect the quality of construction, ensuring the construction of a reliable structure.
You should not buy a stove with a remote firebox. Such a purchase will not only be cheaper, but will also allow you to heat up the steam room much faster, and this will save firewood.
If the soil allows, give preference to a removable foundation. It is very inexpensive, allows you to quickly carry out the necessary repairs if necessary, and is easily dismantled and replaced with another.
If you plan to have a window in the bathhouse, be sure to insulate it in the winter; regular film with bubbles, which is used for packaging, is suitable for these purposes. It is used to trim the frame from the outside.
There is no need to install a shower stall or install a shower in the washroom. Just put basins or tubs for water. It is not so convenient, but very economical.
To reduce the cost of the roof, you should not make it very high. This will not only reduce the cost of cladding, but will also make the chimney not so high.
Attention! In a budget bathhouse, you will also need to abandon full sewerage and water supply. For cold water, you can put barrels or equip a hose. Water in such baths is usually simply poured onto the floor, from where it is immediately absorbed into the ground.